FakeXhale Cloud (Unauthorized and Unsupported)

mmenzie

My friends call me "Menz"
still have not received shipping info for the unit i bought from the seller. :mad:
 
mmenzie,

darkrom

Great Scott!
Screw it sent the $100 offer. I want the dry glass mouthpiece and some new ELBs. If I get a temporarily working cloud out of the deal then that is cool too. Evo to leave home and cloud+ to bring places.
 

tranceporter

The Cloud Conductor
Cloud came in last night and I'm pretty impressed with it. Came with only 1 ELB and had a bit of an electronic smell that went away after a 20 minute burn in.

My first session with the Cloud was shared with two friends and my girlfriend (who rarely partakes but had to hit the Cloud) and we all were thoroughly high after a .3 ELB through the Ion. Had the tenp at noon and then kicked it up to 1 after a few hits.

Haven't vaped in 5 days so I uhh... Enjoyed myself to say the least. At least the wait for the Evo becomes more tolerable now!
 
tranceporter,
  • Like
Reactions: SSVUN~YAH

DBA

Well-Known Member
I have offered on one of these. 100 Dollars. However, the guy wants 105 dollars for shipping and handling (shipping to Netherlands, Europe). It seems mad considering I have never had to pay more than +- 30$ for any item shipped from anywhere. So my question here is, do you guys think 105 dollars is a reasonable price for shipping and handling? Or am I the only one who thinks it's a lot! I know I probably shouldn't complain as it is still cheap, but voice your opinions anyway!

Thanks

*edit:* does anyone know if it is possible to cancel it after my offer has been accepted or do I have to stick with it, for now? According to FedEx 100 usd is what it costs so I can not blame the seller for anything, what are my options? (first ebay purchase lol)
 
Last edited:
DBA,

Mister G

Deceptively Old Fart
I have offered on one of these. 100 Dollars. However, the guy wants 105 dollars for shipping and handling (shipping to Netherlands, Europe). It seems mad considering I have never had to pay more than +- 30$ for any item shipped from anywhere. So my question here is, do you guys think 105 dollars is a reasonable price for shipping and handling? Or am I the only one who thinks it's a lot! I know I probably shouldn't complain as it is still cheap, but voice your opinions anyway!

Thanks

That shipping cost would kill the deal for me, personally.
 

jeff

Well-Known Member
I have offered on one of these. 100 Dollars. However, the guy wants 105 dollars for shipping and handling (shipping to Netherlands, Europe). It seems mad considering I have never had to pay more than +- 30$ for any item shipped from anywhere. So my question here is, do you guys think 105 dollars is a reasonable price for shipping and handling? Or am I the only one who thinks it's a lot! I know I probably shouldn't complain as it is still cheap, but voice your opinions anyway!

Thanks
Yupp go to fed ex and get a quote. I did for fun a 2 or 3 lb package from me to Amsterdam had $116 as the cheapest shipping option.
 

smokie

Well-Known Member
Last time I paid that much for fedex to uk I had package in my hand in two days. I ordered weds and received first thing Friday!
I'm seriously considering one of these now. Need a decent home unit till I get my evo's
 
smokie,

brucebannor

The Cheshire Cat
*edit:* does anyone know if it is possible to cancel it after my offer has been accepted or do I have to stick with it, for now?(first ebay purchase lol)

Send the seller a message you weren't expecting that high of shipping and ask him to cancel the order for you. As long as you explain and are polite, they usually have no problems doing that. It's better than you not paying; this way they aren't charged a fee for money they don't get.
 

darkrom

Great Scott!
So the wires to the glass tube are what would fail on the cloud+?

Does anyone know if they fail because of the higher temp some people use vs the idea of them failing from heat cycling?

I know my buddy has a failed cloud+ and he used to crank it to max temp to hit it all the time. That was his regular spot on the dial. I never took my cloud ticker past 3:00 on the dial EVER and that was really dark.

Perhaps it'll last longer if you don't max the temp, but on the other hand perhaps he had to max the temp BECAUSE something was wrong with the cloud+.

I have mine on the way, but I've always been skeptical of the non-tickers. I really hope it lasts a while. I'm hoping that once the evo shows up the cloud+ will be used for taking to friend's houses and stuff like that not a daily driver. Perhaps it'll be a non-issue then. To be honest once I get the evo I'll probably end up selling the cloud+ or trading it for bud to a grower without a vape.
 

tranceporter

The Cloud Conductor
^ I hear you. I usually like the higher end of the temperature spectrum but I was pretty satisfied with the results at 1:00 and probably won't take it any higher than that. Hopefully this prolongs the life.
 

Purpl3_Haz3

On a Permanent Vakation
So the wires to the glass tube are what would fail on the cloud+?

Does anyone know if they fail because of the higher temp some people use vs the idea of them failing from heat cycling?

I know my buddy has a failed cloud+ and he used to crank it to max temp to hit it all the time. That was his regular spot on the dial. I never took my cloud ticker past 3:00 on the dial EVER and that was really dark.

Perhaps it'll last longer if you don't max the temp, but on the other hand perhaps he had to max the temp BECAUSE something was wrong with the cloud+.

I have mine on the way, but I've always been skeptical of the non-tickers. I really hope it lasts a while. I'm hoping that once the evo shows up the cloud+ will be used for taking to friend's houses and stuff like that not a daily driver. Perhaps it'll be a non-issue then. To be honest once I get the evo I'll probably end up selling the cloud+ or trading it for bud to a grower without a vape.
Have you read my posts in this thread, specifically about what you're saying....? ;)

The point is, we don't know exactly what is causing them to fail like this, but we know potential likely causes...but they conflict, so it's hard to decide the best preventative maintenance.


Some believe staying at high temps and keeping the unit on, will help prolong life; because it's believed that the repeated stress of heating and cooling is the cause of the issue.

Some believe staying at low temps and not venturing above 12/1/2 is the way to prolong life; because they believe that high temps are causing the issue.

Some believe that any temp is okay, and that just not leaving the unit on for extended periods of time (especially at high temp); because they believe that it's not the heat of high temps, but the heat saturating through the entire unit by being on for long times, that causes the issue.

All of the above are valid potential causes of the issue, and potential work arounds...however the conflicting nature makes it difficult to actually pick one of the methodologies and stick with it.

The safest route of all, would be, use lower temps when possible, but regardless of temp (low or max) don't leave it on longer than needed. It stands to reason that if heat is the cause of the issues, just staying in the low temps wont be a end-all answer, as even at low temps, the inner parts of the unit eventually get warmer and warmer, to an extent, as the heat equalizes through the whole unit and it stabilizes. Also, by the same reasoning, going to high temps alone, shouldn't be a problem either, as the high temps won't be a detrimental issue if you don't let the whole unit soak in the heat for forever.

With these units being efficient, as far as heating up reasonably quick, I'd say we are probably just as safe on any temp, as long as we make sure to only let it get up to temp, and use it as needed before shutting it back off. If this style of usage (turn on as needed, off after) doesn't fit into your lifestyle (medical or otherwise) than your second best bet, IMO, would be to leave the unit on at a lower temp, and only raise temp as needed, when needed, also keeping the unit off when not needed.

The idea being, avoid higher temps and long times...but, keeping in mind that expansion / contraction from heat/cooling cycles is playing a part in this, it is still a gamble as to what practices will yield the best longevity...
 
Last edited:

King

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So the wires to the glass tube are what would fail on the cloud+?

Sounds like a plausible weak link, and if that connection fails, the heater burns out as well. I think that the best course of action is to either cross your fingers and hope for longevity or to reinforce the connections before they go. I've been looking into conductive, high temperature epoxies to reinforce the connection. Unfortunately it seems like the Cloud+ can exceed the temperatures this kind epoxy is rated for.

The solution may not be an epoxy, and it may not need to be conductive either, I'm just shooting in the dark as a jumping off point. I remember reading that people damaged their heaters by soldering the connections, so that is off the table.
 

darkrom

Great Scott!
I am a turn it off when I'm not using it kinda guy. I will not be leaving it on 24/7, I have my underdog for that and it has lasted years that way with no signs of damage internally (awesome!).

This is as needed for me. So I guess my point is I liked 12:00 max generally on mine for the ticker (and I like higher temp vapor myself...) so I'll be curious to see what point on the dial feels like it was 12:00 on the ticker. I'm guessing it will be higher than 12.

Thanks for the info. I have read the thread completely I'm just all messed up lately. Too much to process in my brain at once sorry.

Sounds like a plausible weak link, and if that connection fails, the heater burns out as well. I think that the best course of action is to either cross your fingers and hope for longevity or to reinforce the connections before they go. I've been looking into conductive, high temperature epoxies to reinforce the connection. Unfortunately it seems like the Cloud+ can exceed the temperatures this kind epoxy is rated for.

The solution may not be an epoxy, and it may not need to be conductive either, I'm just shooting in the dark as a jumping off point. I remember reading that people damaged their heaters by soldering the connections, so that is off the table.

It would be great to find out how they were connected in the first place as a good starting point. Do we know that yet?

It would be great to find out how they were connected in the first place as a good starting point. Do we know that yet?

100% Speculation:

I think those leads may have been attached before any fragile or heat sensitive elements came into play.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Purpl3_Haz3

On a Permanent Vakation
Thanks for the info. I have read the thread completely I'm just all messed up lately. Too much to process in my brain at once sorry.
If you're juggling three VXL threads plus whatever else floats your FC boat, in addition to life, I totally get it :lol: Sorry if my post came across brash! :peace:

Edit* @darkrom, you can edit your posts into one post, and mark the other empty post for deletion by mods, and you can also report the excess post.
 
Purpl3_Haz3,
  • Like
Reactions: darkrom

marduk

daydreamer
IMO it would also be good to avoid unnecessary vibration in use. Meaning don't plop it down after you clear it, don't have it sharing a desk with your speakers that are pumping loud music into the room, etc etc......

I took the gamble, not planning on going past noon or a little over that and hoping for at least 3 or 4 months of life. Considering it a long-term rental/preview of the Cloud. :|
 

darkrom

Great Scott!
If you're juggling three VXL threads plus whatever else floats your FC boat, in addition to life, I totally get it :lol: Sorry if my post came across brash! :peace:

No it didn't seem brash, I just wanted you to know I did read it all. I'm very upfront when I'm being lazy. Usually OF is my go to lazy guy, because my lazy questions tend to be about electronics or batteries. He is always nice enough to put up with my shit haha.
 

Purpl3_Haz3

On a Permanent Vakation
No it didn't seem brash, I just wanted you to know I did read it all. I'm very upfront when I'm being lazy. Usually OF is my go to lazy guy, because my lazy questions tend to be about electronics or batteries. He is always nice enough to put up with my shit haha.
I'll be your OF here on the VXL side of things...not that I can live up to his level of knowledge dropping posts!
 

MacRadish

Well-Known Member
It would be great to find out how they were connected in the first place as a good starting point. Do we know that yet?

EDIT: sorry for the double post. I'd edit them together myself, but then I have no option to delete the 2nd post...that I know of :(


There are some real close up pictures linked recently in the Cloud thread...

So, its basically a wire soldered to a contact pad of the ceramic heater. No hole, just "attached".

My thoughts are to take the entire glass/ceramic assembly and slowly bring it up to temp in a kiln. Then attempt to silver solder the spot. This way, no concentrated high heat spot. It was posted the temp was too high and cracked the ceramic heater when they tried to solder it back on.
 

King

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
There are some real close up pictures linked recently in the Cloud thread...

So, its basically a wire soldered to a contact pad. No hole, just "attached".

My thoughts are to take the entire glass/ceramic assembly and slowly bring it up to temp in a kiln. Then attempt to silver solder the spot. This way, no concentrated high heat spot. It was posted the temp was too high and cracked the ceramic heater when they tried to solder it back on.

I like that idea, unfortunately its not available to "the masses."

What about laying the wire flat on the pad (hopefully not snapping it in the process) and covering it with a non-conductive high temp epoxy? That way the connection won't stress at the pad. You may need to find a way to reinforce the rest of the wire though.

Another option could be to run a second lead to the contact pad and epoxy that on to bypass the one prone to breaking.
 

lwien

Well-Known Member
Have you read my posts in this thread, specifically about what you're saying....? ;)

The point is, we don't know exactly what is causing them to fail like this, but we know potential likely causes...but they conflict, so it's hard to decide the best preventative maintenance.


Some believe staying at high temps and keeping the unit on, will help prolong life; because it's believed that the repeated stress of heating and cooling is the cause of the issue.

Some believe staying at low temps and not venturing above 12/1/2 is the way to prolong life; because they believe that high temps are causing the issue.

Some believe that any temp is okay, and that just not leaving the unit on for extended periods of time (especially at high temp); because they believe that it's not the heat of high temps, but the heat saturating through the entire unit by being on for long times, that causes the issue.

All of the above are valid potential causes of the issue, and potential work arounds...however the conflicting nature makes it difficult to actually pick one of the methodologies and stick with it.

The safest route of all, would be, use lower temps when possible, but regardless of temp (low or max) don't leave it on longer than needed. It stands to reason that if heat is the cause of the issues, just staying in the low temps wont be a end-all answer, as even at low temps, the inner parts of the unit eventually get warmer and warmer, to an extent, as the heat equalizes through the whole unit and it stabilizes. Also, by the same reasoning, going to high temps alone, shouldn't be a problem either, as the high temps won't be a detrimental issue if you don't let the whole unit soak in the heat for forever.

With these units being efficient, as far as heating up reasonably quick, I'd say we are probably just as safe on any temp, as long as we make sure to only let it get up to temp, and use it as needed before shutting it back off. If this style of usage (turn on as needed, off after) doesn't fit into your lifestyle (medical or otherwise) than your second best bet, IMO, would be to leave the unit on at a lower temp, and only raise temp as needed, when needed, also keeping the unit off when not needed.

The idea being, avoid higher temps and long times...but, keeping in mind that expansion / contraction from heat/cooling cycles is playing a part in this, it is still a gamble as to what practices will yield the best longevity...

I have not read through the Cloud thread but has Monkey come in and stated what he thinks the problem could be?
 

AdmiralAlpacha

Well-Known Member
There are some real close up pictures linked recently in the Cloud thread...

So, its basically a wire soldered to a contact pad of the ceramic heater. No hole, just "attached".

My thoughts are to take the entire glass/ceramic assembly and slowly bring it up to temp in a kiln. Then attempt to silver solder the spot. This way, no concentrated high heat spot. It was posted the temp was too high and cracked the ceramic heater when they tried to solder it back on.

I might attempt this... I have a kiln and I'm decent at soldering.

I'd hate to break it though as its working for the moment :p.

Any recommendation for what temperature to kiln it at?
 
Top Bottom