Discontinued Thermovape Cera

Darb

Well-Known Member
My LL core must not be working right. No matter what I do, I can only get small wispy puffs from it.
 
Darb,
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VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
At first I got nothing, then I realized I didn't pre heat long enough, gave it about 11 seconds then I got a sweet taste. kept puffin with medium draws for another 11 seconds, and then I just pulled on it and vapor was flowin. I didn't see clouds of vapor, but immediately I felt the effects of ol' king louie. So I slowed my draw down a bit and I could sort of sense the heat passing over the leaf & extracting. That hit was smooth and Tasty.

There really is a sweet spot with the LL core. How many bowls per battery do you guys get?

I would say, 10 second heat time, puff on it lightly to get more heat in the chamber, EDIT: DO THE PUFF TEST (dedicated to OF :lol:) after 10 more seconds give it a healthy pull (not too hard, not too soft) and you should be in business. Also, I just scooped up herb with the LL core out of my grinder while the core was attacthed to the Cera. Makes a good way of not having to touch your material. & it was filled to the brim, and a light pack down.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
My LL core must not be working right. No matter what I do, I can only get small wispy puffs from it.

I strongly doubt that. Dollars to doughnuts it's technique, not hardware. Does the core saturate properly at step 1?

OF
 
OF,

Darb

Well-Known Member
It glows when empty but takes 20 seconds or more. I don't have it with me right now but I'll time it when I get home.
 
Darb,

OF

Well-Known Member
It glows when empty but takes 20 seconds or more. I don't have it with me right now but I'll time it when I get home.

If it's taking 20 seconds to saturate I'd look into battery and maybe switch to see if you can't get that time down some. But if it's saturating eventually it's doing as much as possible (doing it's job) and you should be able to complete Step 2 normally leading to normal hits.

I've tested LL cores over a quite wide range of powers, with good technique you can get good results with most although it might take more time on Step 1. Full heat (eventually) at Step 1 produces more total heat than you need (by design), if you managed it well.

I'd focus on the 'test puff' part.

Good luck.

OF
 

nopartofme

Over the falls, in a barrel
I'd focus on the 'test puff' part.
I find myself reminding some of my friends to do this all the time. One of them has the draw speed down but ends up getting more than they bargained for every time. It's hard to know exactly when the vapor starts flowing without the mighty test puff!

I had a hard time believing in vapor I couldn't feel until I started puffing out little rings of it on a regular basis!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I find myself reminding some of my friends to do this all the time. One of them has the draw speed down but ends up getting more than they bargained for every time. It's hard to know exactly when the vapor starts flowing without the mighty test puff!

I had a hard time believing in vapor I couldn't feel until I started puffing out little rings of it on a regular basis!

Ain't it the simple truth. Many of your 'natural instincts' and other vape skills serve well here, but some don't. I find focusing on the steps (stay on one until you get core saturation before moving on, stick on 2 until you get a solid test puff to confirm you've completed it, then go to three. Trusting other measures (taste, heat, instincts, whatever) just isn't reliable, the test puff is proven to work well.

Funny, nobody seems to have trouble with Step 3.....except over doing it as you point out. It's a demanding vape in that it basically has to be used one way to work well, but it rewards you for doing that big time.

OF
 

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
So I switched back to LL last night after all the LL talk. When I try and use it with the CGR18650CH 2250 mah batteries the body gets really hot really quick but i can only get light wispy hits. And the ground herb doesnt even look dark or even brown really.

When i switched back to the 2900mah I instantly get huge amazing hits. Not quite as big or powerful as EO but definitely comparable...am I doing something wrong? Are the batteries junk? The 2250 CGR works fine with oil i just cant get good results with them using the LL.
 
Mynameismud,
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OF

Well-Known Member
When I try and use it with the CGR18650CH 2250 mah batteries the body gets really hot really quick but i can only get light wispy hits.

When i switched back to the 2900mah I instantly get huge amazing hits.

The 2250 CGR works fine with oil i just cant get good results with them using the LL.

Any chance the -CH is getting old? EO cores are more tolerant of this I think since we can use power over a shorter time frame there and lower total power means lower production not longer times like with LL?

OF
 

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Any chance the -CH is getting old? EO cores are more tolerant of this I think since we can use power over a shorter time frame there and lower total power means lower production not longer times like with LL?

OF
I dont think so...I purchased them the same time and place i got the 2900 mah batteries from. (Fasttech about a month ago) only been charged a few times. Oh well I guess?
 
Mynameismud,
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VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
Havin problems uploading pictures of my latching switch fix, I'll try tonight
 
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VapoRoor,
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nopartofme

Over the falls, in a barrel
This evening I was walking down a densely wooded trail with Cera when I was suddenly attacked by Shelob herself.

809rBUU.jpg


In the ensuing chaos I confirmed that the top cap can slide off the cart's o-rings fairly easily when the cap and cart are both good and hot. As I swung my cera-holding arm wildly, my top cap and mouthpiece sailed into the heavily vegetated spiders' den.

Even with the present eight-legged threat, I searched high and low for Cera's top hat to no avail.


So of course I find myself peeking at TET's store. Am I correct in my understanding that the LL carts come with a top cap and mouthpiece? Or is this only when buying a whole Cera kit? If it's the former, I have a hard time seeing why someone in my position wouldn't go for a spare LL cart…
 
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druminfected

Well-Known Member
Since I've tried all methods to cleaning my CEO, and getting my SR-71 for my Persei this week, I decided to take the risk and take apart and clean the cart. The only trouble I found was finding the right size hex/screwdriver loosen TW screws I had to use a filing tool on my smallest screwdriver I had, and finally got it open.

My cart looked exactly like Bills, it was more carbonated than Han Solo, but the I got my wafer back to white as well as most of the circular ceramic piece right underneath the wafer.


I screwed it back together, just like how I tighten my drum heads, by just putting all the screws in but tighten them just one turn and moving to the opposite screw and tightening it about 5 turns each but not too tight. I used a torch to burn away the carbon instead of a bic lighter as well, but those were the only thing I did differently. I'm trying to find a 0.35 hex key, anyone know where I can get 1 for cheap?

Anyhoo I Put it all together and Boom, just like when I first got my Cera!

No more black looking oil, No more over spills that get all over the top of the cart and UFO, and heats up in ten seconds for vape production compared to 45secs +
 
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VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
Is it as easy as going to harbor freight and picking up the materials needed for a latching cap for the switch? or is it just household items people have been scrounging up?
I made a simple latching mechanism out of an end cap and a rubber disc in the midle so when the cap is plced , the rubber disc engages the switch. I just noticed its shy of achieving full power, I'd say around 90% power is used
 
VapoRoor,

druminfected

Well-Known Member
Got to give a special thanks to BLAZING OG —

My EO cart ceramic wafer fell out while cleaning. I carefully slipped it back in only to fall out again. So I decided to follow BLAZING OG's lead and replace it with a titanium screen.

The new titanium screen works perfectly, in fact, better. It still holds oil like the ceramic wafer only you can get down to business without as much time as priming/heating the ceramic wafer. I am getting better flavor much faster.

Thx BLAZING OG

That's awesome! Could you provide a picture or a link of what you replaced it with actually? I think I will try this when the CEO gets gobbed up with heavy carbon later on in it's journey.
 
druminfected,

Czechyourhead

Well-Known Member
So I guess it was time to clean my oil cart, didn't realize it was under-performing. Did a 20 min boil, followed by soaking in 91 iso in a bag, in a sink full of very hot (not boiling water) for 20, rinse, repeat..barely changed the tint of the iso the 2nd soak. then quick boil to remove any iso....20-20 burn to clear any water. Loaded up maybe .3 Co2 hybrid. A couple 5 sec bursts to melt in. Let it settle a few mins.

Hit as I normally would. Paused, extended exhale......Knew I was in trouble about a 1/3 of the way thru...

I should have done that awhile ago.
 

Ace.357

Well-Known Member
I recently got my hands on a T1 and think it's a great portable for dry herbs. I'm really interested in the loose leaf Cera. But the reviews I've read so far seem mixed (good and bad). Is the LL Cera a much better device compared to the T1? How stealthy is it for use in public?
 
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Ace.357,

nopartofme

Over the falls, in a barrel
I recently got my hands on a T1 and think it's a great portable for dry herbs. I'm really interested in the loose leaf Cera. But the reviews I've read so far seem mixed (good and bad). Is the LL Cera a much better device compared to the T1? How stealthy is it for use in public?
I've never used or owned a T1 but from what I understand the CLL is basically a significantly improved T1 in all respects except durability, stealth, and weight. If you are a fan of your T1 I think you'll take to the LL cart with no issues and enjoy it very much. I've found it to be a real workhorse, enduring use as a daily driver without breaking a sweat. Its cleanability is remarkable too.

If you're after stealth though, you'd probably want to consider some kind of modification like heatshrink tubing to make it a darker color. @BLAZING OG has experience there. The ceramic is strikingly beautiful but its stealthiness suffers for it I think. You can always try and explain it away as an "electronic cigar" if anyone takes notice, but I doubt it would stop them from staring.

Is it as easy as going to harbor freight and picking up the materials needed for a latching cap for the switch? or is it just household items people have been scrounging up?
I made a simple latching mechanism out of an end cap and a rubber disc in the midle so when the cap is plced , the rubber disc engages the switch. I just noticed its shy of achieving full power, I'd say around 90% power is used
It depends on what kind of latching modification you're trying to create. The one you made sounds good, but the part about only getting 90% power doesn't make sense. Either the switch is on, or it's off… I see no reason for partial power?

There's a list of switch mods on the Vaporpedia page that all use different materials such as velcro or brass wire. If you're trying to change the actual switch for a latching one, I don't believe you'll be able to achieve that with a visit to Harbor Freight.

I haven't made any latching mods myself so I can't help you more than that… Best of luck.
 
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BLAZING OG

Vaping is a way of life!
Got to give a special thanks to BLAZING OG —

My EO cart ceramic wafer fell out while cleaning. I carefully slipped it back in only to fall out again. So I decided to follow BLAZING OG's lead and replace it with a titanium screen.

The new titanium screen works perfectly, in fact, better. It still holds oil like the ceramic wafer only you can get down to business without as much time as priming/heating the ceramic wafer. I am getting better flavor much faster.

Thx BLAZING OG
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-cera.8332/page-200#post-423443

Titanium screens:
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/concentrate-utensils/titanium-products.html?brand=200
Thanks brotha, Iam glad that helped you out!:rockon:
@steama :peace:
 

VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
It depends on what kind of latching modification you're trying to create. The one you made sounds good, but the part about only getting 90% power doesn't make sense. Either the switch is on, or it's off… I see no reason for partial power?

There's a list of switch mods on the Vaporpedia page that all use different materials such as velcro or brass wire. If you're trying to change the actual switch for a latching one, I don't believe you'll be able to achieve that with a visit to Harbor Freight.

I haven't made any latching mods myself so I can't help you more than that… Best of luck.

Is that true? No in between with Power percentages? power is Either on or off? If so, that's great! and I was just being picky (or engaging the switch made me believe it was hotter cause I was doing something rather than just watching it glow?)

Anyways, I decided to just go to home depot and check this out.

Plastic leg tips, 1 inch 25mm
Everbilt Self adhesive vinyl bumpers (medium sized)
Total = 5 bucks
Result, hands free vaping
 

scottfree

Active Member
Good RBA with ceramic cup is the GG Penelope (Euforia Tank.. China Clone) I feel like if I used ceramic wick instead of silica, it would be like a rebuildable mini cera/dart?
 
scottfree,

nopartofme

Over the falls, in a barrel
G posted pics of The Core in the Omicron and Persei threads. Behold:

DSC_0699.jpg

DSC_2023.jpg

ED071674-F1E0-4344-AE90-AE14DD4C12B1-28490-000011E75B3244BB.jpg


That bit in the first image looks tantalizingly close to something that could screw into the bottom of a Cera, replacing the battery and switch. I'm sure the threading and diameter are all wrong… Anyone know the diameter of a Persei?

In any case I figure something like this would always be an option?

IMG_1476.JPG


Heh Loblaw you liked the post right as I was adding your photo to it… Cheers

Good RBA with ceramic cup is the GG Penelope (Euforia Tank.. China Clone) I feel like if I used ceramic wick instead of silica, it would be like a rebuildable mini cera/dart?
Cera uses porous ceramic plates, not a fibrous wick.
 
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Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
That bit in the first image looks tantalizingly close to something that could screw into the bottom of a Cera, replacing the battery and switch. I'm sure the threading and diameter are all wrong… Anyone know the diameter of a Persei?

In any case I figure something like this would always be an option?

If it were that easy I think OF would have done it by now! The problem with the switches is they can't handle the current/power. It has to be a very specific kind of switch to get optimal performance.
 
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