Discontinued Thermovape Cera

[Zingbuddah]

So....poll....how many times a week do you pull on your Cera and realize the batteries are not inside?

<shakes head>

You think by now I'd have it down....

Mines still kicking butt over here. Thinking hard about parting with my T1 gear to get a spare....only thing better than a Cera is Two!

 

[Mynameismud]

Got the shipping notice for my new Cera today. Turn around time sure has improved in the past few months!

Got my other one boxed up and shipped out for repair as well. It'll definitely be nice having a redundant backup once that gets fixed. Zeki at TET has been happily responding to my annoying emails for the past couple days too, which is a big comfort.

Ahhh yeah sent mine in last monday and i should be getting it tomorrow! They got it on wednesday last week so turn around time is about 2-3 business days without shpping like it states on their website.

I do feel bad about all the emails i sent/ possibly(probably) annoying zeki. Both of my issues happend friday/saturdays though and they usually dont respond until monday nights for me on the east coast so thats probably part of the reason it takes so long to get responses.

On a side note, i hope to never have to go through the repair again, a week is too long without cera! I need the mini/light already so i can justify buying a spare body!!!

And on another side note, the person at vapehead.com said that they can get mark at vrip tech to make more GonGs for the cera if there is interest. So if so maybe contact them?

 

[coffinoff]

So....poll....how many times a week do you pull on your Cera and realize the batteries are not inside?

Never forgotten to load a battery. I did about smack myself in the head when I picked up my T1 for the first time since February. Muscle memory had gotten so used to lifting the ceramic dumbbell that the little aluminum tube felt light as a feather.

 

[OF]

Never forgotten to load a battery. I did about smack myself in the head when I picked up my T1 for the first time since February. Muscle memory had gotten so used to lifting the ceramic dumbbell that the little aluminum tube felt light as a feather.

I think you may have summed up the 'mini Cera' idea. It's not so much a size reduction (remember, we wanted 18650s.....) but rather a lightening up exercise for those who pack them in pockets all day long. It seems the e-cig guys got left behind with Cera and are missing their Alphas even more than we miss DART?

As I understand it, they're not fans of the switch being on the bottom, although they've no interest at all in latching. Different market I guess?

OF

 

[Breathemetal]

Havent been here in a while....where's my mini cera?!



Okay, ill be patient....and continue to RIDE THE WAVEEEE.

 

[VapoRoor]

I think you may have summed up the 'mini Cera' idea. It's not so much a size reduction (remember, we wanted 18650s.....) but rather a lightening up exercise for those who pack them in pockets all day long. It seems the e-cig guys got left behind with Cera and are missing their Alphas even more than we miss DART?

As I understand it, they're not fans of the switch being on the bottom, although they've no interest at all in latching. Different market I guess?

OF

I, on the other hand. Am a huge fan of the bottom switch. I find myself trying to rotate the DART so the oil doesn't collect all on one side. With the side switch, this can look weird when you twist your hand upside down and look sort of like you got stuck like that.

With the Ceras bottom switch, rotating will not be a problem when using the EO or LL Cartridge

 

[JCat]

Got my Cera EO cart back today that I sent in for repair a month ago tomorrow, and the broken wafer has been replaced, but it still has the original issue of absolutely zero airflow, none, nada, zip, ... if you put your fingers over the 4 set screws and put your mouth over the top of the cart and try to inhale or exhale it's impossible to get any air to pass through the cartridge ... guess I'm going to have to send it back to TET again ... another $30 shipping fee on my part (maybe Canada Post won't meet their delivery standards again and they'll issue me a refund though) and then another $30 shipping fee for TET ... for 2 servicings on the cartridge it will have cost $120 in shipping (approximately) for a $100 cart ... seems crazy.

Edit: And this is a problem I could detect with the cart within 1 minute of opening the package as its one of the first things I checked since its one of the 2 reasons I sent it in. Why was my cartridge sent back to me without verifying that the 2 problems I sent it in to get resolved were actually resolved? (... just venting ... a little frustrated ...) ... oh yeah ... I also had requested a spare ceramic wafer which they didn't send me (since the one in my other cartridge was broken as well ... learned the hard way I have to be more gentle)

So ... 3 things to be addressed with this servicing, and they only addressed 1.

 

[darkrom]

Is the best way to clean the EO just run it dry for 20 sec on, wait a bit, then repeat?

Is there any advantage to soaking the whole core in ISO?

I've been switching between ABV iso oil in it and fresh BHO when I have it available.

After this next event I need it to work for I want to do a "like new" clean and I'm curious what the best protips are for something like that. I want to get used to seeing how it performs dirty vs clean so I can get a feel for this.

EDIT: Vaporpedia makes it look like I should just soak the whole EO in ISO. Should I soak it in iso then do a boiling water wash for good measure? Should be completely like new after I let it dry. I GUESS I can go back to vaping buds for a day to let it fully dry.

Also, my LL core is getting a bit loose. Should I send it in now do you think to have them tighten it, or should I just find the correct tool and turn it fractions of a turn at a time. Its the part that makes contact with the battery area that is becoming a bit loose, but I don't want to be without my only portable (I don't often have much oil around).

 

[Mynameismud]

@darkrom , i havent had to clean mine yet so not much help there.

As for trying to tighten it yourself, that probably frowned upon unless your experienced and it would be a shame to ruin your working cart/void the warranty if you mess up at all.

If I were you, I would just order a new LL core. Since it comes with the ceramic mouthpiece and top cap (90$ish value) you could always list the ceramic topcap/mp that someone probably wants/needs in the classifieds and im sure you can get a lot or most of your money back. Then just mail your iffy cart back to Thermovape once you have the new one and youve got yourself a pretty cheap backup...

You could even list your ceramic mp/top cap now to get a head of it worst case is it stays listed for a while, best case scenario is it sells before you buy the new LL

 

[Krazzykid]

Is the best way to clean the EO just run it dry for 20 sec on, wait a bit, then repeat?

Is there any advantage to soaking the whole core in ISO?

I've been switching between ABV iso oil in it and fresh BHO when I have it available.

After this next event I need it to work for I want to do a "like new" clean and I'm curious what the best protips are for something like that. I want to get used to seeing how it performs dirty vs clean so I can get a feel for this.

EDIT: Vaporpedia makes it look like I should just soak the whole EO in ISO. Should I soak it in iso then do a boiling water wash for good measure? Should be completely like new after I let it dry. I GUESS I can go back to vaping buds for a day to let it fully dry.

Also, my LL core is getting a bit loose. Should I send it in now do you think to have them tighten it, or should I just find the correct tool and turn it fractions of a turn at a time. Its the part that makes contact with the battery area that is becoming a bit loose, but I don't want to be without my only portable (I don't often have much oil around).

What I do to clean my EO, or anything that has oil in it really

1. Put Cart into ziploc baggie
2. Add enough ISO to cover and zip close
3. Submerge bag into hot tap water for a few minutes(dont boil water but let tap get as hot as possible)
4. Lift bag from water and while holding the cart(so it wont shake around and put a hole in bag) shake vigorously!
5. Repeat 3&4
The water will heat up the cart and the oil inside+ISO which will get much more oil out.
6. Remove cart from bag and boil cart for 10-20 minutes
Optional(but I would): dump ISO into dish to evaporate so you can reclaim that goodness!
7. shake as much water out of the cart as possible then put in oven on lowest setting for 1 to 1&1/2 hours to dry. Put cart on its side, it seems to work better that way.

That's it. If you want to you can do the 20-20-20 burn after to burn off any carbon buildup from impurities. After that the cart should perform as good as new.

Edit: You can re-boil and dry if you do the 20-20-20 to wash away the ash from carbon buildup.

 

[Mynameismud]

I use the PVHES travel tubes to ISO soak my dart cartridge while similarly running under hot tap water. I havent tried to clean mine yet but the cera cartridge seems to fit in it as well. And you can kind of wedge it so it wont shake around and still be able to get it out.

Maybe a better option that the ziplock which seems to always leak when i put iso in it. And not too expensive either.

 

[Krazzykid]

I use the PVHES travel tubes to ISO soak my dart cartridge while similarly running under hot tap water. I havent tried to clean mine yet but the cera cartridge seems to fit in it as well. And you can kind of wedge it so it wont shake around and still be able to get it out.

Maybe a better option that the ziplock which seems to always leak when i put iso in it. And not too expensive either.

Whatever works right?
I personally use their freezer bags and have never had a single one leak a drop on me, but "your results may vary"

I simply use the bags because I don't have to worry about anything banging around and possibly breaking, but my method of using bags to reclaim/clean pieces started with my nail and dome setup long ago(more expensive than Cera even and didn't want to break)

Edit My nail and dome never had boil/oven/20-20-20 steps tho

 

[bill]

Got my Cera EO cart back today that I sent in for repair a month ago tomorrow, and the broken wafer has been replaced, but it still has the original issue of absolutely zero airflow, none, nada, zip, ... if you put your fingers over the 4 set screws and put your mouth over the top of the cart and try to inhale or exhale it's impossible to get any air to pass through the cartridge ... guess I'm going to have to send it back to TET again ... another $30 shipping fee on my part (maybe Canada Post won't meet their delivery standards again and they'll issue me a refund though) and then another $30 shipping fee for TET ... for 2 servicings on the cartridge it will have cost $120 in shipping (approximately) for a $100 cart ... seems crazy.

Edit: And this is a problem I could detect with the cart within 1 minute of opening the package as its one of the first things I checked since its one of the 2 reasons I sent it in. Why was my cartridge sent back to me without verifying that the 2 problems I sent it in to get resolved were actually resolved? (... just venting ... a little frustrated ...) ... oh yeah ... I also had requested a spare ceramic wafer which they didn't send me (since the one in my other cartridge was broken as well ... learned the hard way I have to be more gentle)

So ... 3 things to be addressed with this servicing, and they only addressed 1.

Hey JCat, I think I can help. I have been through the same problems as you but on 2 occasions. I think I am the only one to take apart the EO core and successfully fix my airflow issue. The 4 screws around the bottom of the core is all you need to remove, gently pull the core up a little and re-tighten the core. That worked for me and I no longer have airflow issues. It is really frustrating to get a obviously broke core back that has clearly not been tested. Been there done that I hope to never go through that again. Ill try to get some pics up later tonight. Peace

 

[JCat]

Hey JCat, I think I can help. I have been through the same problems as you but on 2 occasions. I think I am the only one to take apart the EO core and successfully fix my airflow issue. The 4 screws around the bottom of the core is all you need to remove, gently pull the core up a little and re-tighten the core. That worked for me and I no longer have airflow issues. It is really frustrating to get a obviously broke core back that has clearly not been tested. Been there done that I hope to never go through that again. Ill try to get some pics up later tonight. Peace

@bill ... thanks ... I may consider doing just this ... (based on your adventurous experience as well as Tim's post)

 

[nopartofme]

Also, my LL core is getting a bit loose. Should I send it in now do you think to have them tighten it, or should I just find the correct tool and turn it fractions of a turn at a time. Its the part that makes contact with the battery area that is becoming a bit loose, but I don't want to be without my only portable (I don't often have much oil around).

Sounds like you're talking about the threaded base wiggling inside the ceramic housing, which is nothing to worry about. The base and heating core are designed to float a little inside the ceramic, in order to account for the differences in thermal expansion between the ceramic and SS/Ti.

I got a core back from repair once where the threaded base was stuck canted at a slight angle and didn't wiggle at all, but it screwed in and worked fine. At some point it went back to being wiggly, the result of some heat cycling I'm sure. Nothing to worry about, I'm told!

 

[OF]

Got my Cera EO cart back today that I sent in for repair a month ago tomorrow, and the broken wafer has been replaced, but it still has the original issue of absolutely zero airflow, none, nada, zip,

Edit: And this is a problem I could detect with the cart within 1 minute of opening the package as its one of the first things I checked since its one of the 2 reasons I sent it in. Why was my cartridge sent back to me without verifying that the 2 problems I sent it in to get resolved were actually resolved?

I also had requested a spare ceramic wafer which they didn't send me (since the one in my other cartridge was broken as well ... learned the hard way I have to be more gentle)

So ... 3 things to be addressed with this servicing, and they only addressed 1.

So you're in Canada? This had to go through customs twice? I'm sure you're not saying TV sat on it for a month....but it does kind of read that way? How long did TV have it?

As to 'why didn't they fix what I asked them to', that's not really the agreement or the procedure. The cores come in, are stripped down, necessary parts and the heater replaced and they're reassembled an tested against the 'ready to ship' standards. How yours doesn't draw right I've no idea, but that would have been checked. I've watched them inspect and open up the countersink as needed (seemed to me it was more of a Ti than SS issue?

As to why they didn't send you a loose floor plate that would have involved your doing non approved work on the core is my thought? TV's official stand is 'don't mess with the screws' last I heard?

Is the best way to clean the EO just run it dry for 20 sec on, wait a bit, then repeat?

Is there any advantage to soaking the whole core in ISO?


Also, my LL core is getting a bit loose. Should I send it in now do you think to have them tighten it, or should I just find the correct tool and turn it fractions of a turn at a time. Its the part that makes contact with the battery area that is becoming a bit loose, but I don't want to be without my only portable (I don't often have much oil around).

I continue to recommend boiling in water first, that seems to remove the most junk fastest. Then ISO soak. I also boil at the end to be sure all the ISO is gone.

The LL core cover is supposed to 'float' on the screws so it doesn't crack out at the screw holes under temperature cycling. All of mine are looser than when new, the newest is the tightest. If it's getting too loose (and you'll have to make the call, it's probably time to send it in. The tapped sleeve is probably going to need replacement in that case?

The 4 screws around the bottom of the core is all you need to remove, gently pull the core up a little and re-tighten the core. That worked for me and I no longer have airflow issues.

I don't doubt this a bit, that is I don't doubt you think it fixed things. But in reality (whatever that is) it did nothing, really. The screws are a tight fit in the holes (the same thermal issues don't exist with the metal as with the ceramic in LL cores), the sleeve has to end up in exactly the same spot, there is no lateral play. Any shift in the core is reversed when the screws are installed. Again, I don't doubt what you report, I'm just saying the way it's designed and built that makes no sense. Even if there wasn't a 'don't mess with the screws' directive I would not feel comfortable encouraging guys in this area.

@bill ... thanks ... I may consider doing just this ... (based on your adventurous experience as well as Tim's post)

If you check back, didn't Tim say 'you shouldn't mess with the screws'?

"Again let me remind you that I DO NOT recommend opening up a core unless you are trained and experienced. You can and likely will damage some of the components which would lead to a more costly rebuild of the core."

If you're going to cite the guy, you probably should get the quote right?

It's your property, by all means do as you think best, but as Tim says "at your own risk".
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-cera.8332/page-210#post-438616

Good luck.

OF

 

[bill]

So you're in Canada? This had to go through customs twice? I'm sure you're not saying TV sat on it for a month....but it does kind of read that way? How long did TV have it?

As to 'why didn't they fix what I asked them to', that's not really the agreement or the procedure. The cores come in, are stripped down, necessary parts and the heater replaced and they're reassembled an tested against the 'ready to ship' standards. How yours doesn't draw right I've no idea, but that would have been checked. I've watched them inspect and open up the countersink as needed (seemed to me it was more of a Ti than SS issue?

As to why they didn't send you a loose floor plate that would have involved your doing non approved work on the core is my thought? TV's official stand is 'don't mess with the screws' last I heard?



I continue to recommend boiling in water first, that seems to remove the most junk fastest. Then ISO soak. I also boil at the end to be sure all the ISO is gone.

The LL core cover is supposed to 'float' on the screws so it doesn't crack out at the screw holes under temperature cycling. All of mine are looser than when new, the newest is the tightest. If it's getting too loose (and you'll have to make the call, it's probably time to send it in. The tapped sleeve is probably going to need replacement in that case?



I don't doubt this a bit, that is I don't doubt you think it fixed things. But in reality (whatever that is) it did nothing, really. The screws are a tight fit in the holes (the same thermal issues don't exist with the metal as with the ceramic in LL cores), the sleeve has to end up in exactly the same spot, there is no lateral play. Any shift in the core is reversed when the screws are installed. Again, I don't doubt what you report, I'm just saying the way it's designed and built that makes no sense. Even if there wasn't a 'don't mess with the screws' directive I would not feel comfortable encouraging guys in this area.





If you check back, didn't Tim say 'you shouldn't mess with the screws'?

"Again let me remind you that I DO NOT recommend opening up a core unless you are trained and experienced. You can and likely will damage some of the components which would lead to a more costly rebuild of the core."

If you're going to cite the guy, you probably should get the quote right?

It's your property, by all means do as you think best, but as Tim says "at your own risk".
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-cera.8332/page-210#post-438616

Good luck.

OF

OMG OF! you are such a naysayer, Your the guy at the lake telling everyone not to jump off the rock because it dangerous and you might get hurt. Have you ever done anything adventurous? Almost every post your such a square, wheres your sense of trial and error. If TV was really about health they would make a product that doesn't require shipping back and forth and burning thousands of gallons of fuel every few months and in my case every 3 week of use at first. After taking apart the EO core(which is easy by the way) I think it is fatally flawed, porous ceramic hold so much by product from the oil even if its clean oil that over time the core is so caked up you have to SEND IT IN for a cleaning, which I am sure they probably just throw away the core and start new(major waste but covers the poor design). Peace

 

[Mynameismud]

OMG OF! you are such a naysayer, Your the guy at the lake telling everyone not to jump off the rock because it dangerous and you might get hurt. Have you ever done anything adventurous? Almost every post your such a square, wheres your sense of trial and error. If TV was really about health they would make a product that doesn't require shipping back and forth and burning thousands of gallons of fuel every few months and in my case every 3 week of use at first. After taking apart the EO core(which is easy by the way) I think it is fatally flawed, porous ceramic hold so much by product from the oil even if its clean oil that over time the core is so caked up you have to SEND IT IN for a cleaning, which I am sure they probably just throw away the core and start new(major waste but covers the poor design). Peace

OF is just trying to provide everyone with all the information. If people saw your original post without OFs remarks everyone would start tweaking and taking apart their cores thinking its soo easy when not everyone is as technically skilled as you might be. And also your advice VOIDS the warranty which i dont believe you mentioned in your post. So while it was easy for you it may not be easy for everyone else and I for one would rather send my core in to be examined by the experts as apposed to attempting myself and most likely breaking in the process.

As for the design, its a proven and loved design as can be seen with its ancestor the DART. And IMO a much imporved design. As for the issues, The majority if not ALL new vaporizers that are released always have kinks and issues that need to be worked out and are inevitable even with all the beta testing in the world. At least that has been my experience with buying new release products. Its just a cost of being an early adapter and what the warranty is designed for. Seriously though all great and respected vapes had major issues which took months to year/years to work out (Solo, Pax, Iolite, Wispr, VXHCloud, vivape and the list goes on and on....)...at least the issues seem to be dying down with the cera now though. And im sure the same thing will happen when the cera mini is eventually released

 

[JoeKickass]

I think it is fatally flawed, porous ceramic hold so much by product from the oil even if its clean oil that over time the core is so caked up you have to SEND IT IN for a cleaning

Though your delivery was about as delicate as a trainwreck, you actually hit upon a fundamental truth about all oil vapes.

No matter how good your oil is, it isn't 100% thc, and it isn't all vaporizable. If you want to consume a lot of thc, you are going to produce a lot of by-product. I imagine this is things like plant matter or oil that doesn't evaporate at our temperatures, but rather than combusting and inhaling all this matter, we are vaporizing the good stuff out of the leftovers.

The Dabbler is a popular pen vape, like other concentrate vapes it too builds up a layer of left-overs on the heater, but the idea is at least you aren't inhaling that stuff! If you heat everything to the right temp, only the stuff we want evaporates out

 

[bill]

Here we go for all the do it your selfers, Tools needed- Super tiny screwdriver or allen wrench, lighter, long pair of tweezers and a steady hand.
1, take out screws
2, gently pry up (evenly) the core and pull out straight
3, you might have the wafer stuck to the core so watch out, you will notice build up around the core
4, burn off the wafer and wash, repeat if necessary. it should almost turn completely white.
5, burn off the core, wash and repeat.
6, take out the battery in the cera and gently screw in the core but not all the way so it wont get stuck
7, after a couple 20-20-20 burns it should start to turn bright red and glow. let cool completely
8, take out battery and unscrew the core. now gently pick away at the carbon buildup but not the ceramic. depending on how bad the clogged ceramic you might have to do a ISO soak and rinse and burn just to get all the gunk out.
9, it should start to turn white but probably not completely. When you go to put it back together make sure everything is cool to the touch that way things wont be expanded by the heat.
10, reverse procedure for putting it back together but DO NOT over tighten the screws. That's it you have a like new cera and you now understand how it works. Totally love mine and I use it exclusively for my meds, but it is flawed by design imo because it seems like that particular piece is designed to be thrown away and replaced which I do not like. Peace

 

[JoeKickass]

Here we go for all the do it your selfers,

Great pics thanks a lot! I had no idea the ceramic went around the heating coil!

(You can see it in the second to last pic, the coil heater must be the black ring sandwiched by white.)

 

[VapoRoor]

Bill, I am not speaking for TET. Just my understanding after owning two DARTS.

That being said. These Cores are meant to be washed out. I gunked up a DART core pretty badly and I now have a new core, that has been getting used everyday for at least an hour or two of heat time for two weeks. While the airflow is good still, the vapor production is reducing.
I came to the realization that if you use a core repeatedly and dont wash when it needs it. the insides will get caked up & will slow down vapor production, also restricting airflow.

A lot of issues you seem to be having.

On a side note. GREAT breakdown and really in depth.
Nice one!

 

[coffinoff]

Assuming good to high quality wax, about how much would you say you can vape before the core would noticeably benefit from a cleaning?

 

[bill]

Great pics thanks a lot! I had no idea the ceramic went around the heating coil!

(You can see it in the second to last pic, the coil heater must be the black ring sandwiched by white.)

Actually the black ring you are seeing is build up, I got that cleaned out and you can clearly see (sorry no pics) the wire and a little ceramic tube looking thing.

 

[JCat]

So you're in Canada? This had to go through customs twice? I'm sure you're not saying TV sat on it for a month....but it does kind of read that way? How long did TV have it?

As to 'why didn't they fix what I asked them to', that's not really the agreement or the procedure. The cores come in, are stripped down, necessary parts and the heater replaced and they're reassembled an tested against the 'ready to ship' standards. How yours doesn't draw right I've no idea, but that would have been checked. I've watched them inspect and open up the countersink as needed (seemed to me it was more of a Ti than SS issue?

As to why they didn't send you a loose floor plate that would have involved your doing non approved work on the core is my thought? TV's official stand is 'don't mess with the screws' last I heard?

Yes, I'm in Canada and no I'm not saying it sat at TV for a month. It was shipped from my place on July 16th with guaranteed 3 days delivery (took 9 business days). TV had it for 1 week (5 business days), and then it took 7 business days to get back to me.

This core had this problem when I bought it the first time, and TV advised me to remove a screw as a "sort of" fix (which you indicated wasn't really a fix way back when). I bought an additional core, and this one I finally sent in for repair.

I can't see how mine could have been checked for correct draw ... it has zero airflow through it. None. Zip. It never has. When I first received it, it was like this, and after sending it in for service it still is.

TV agreed to send me the extra wafer in e-mail correspondence which is why I expected to receive it.

Why is it that I always feel attacked by you when I post anything negative about my experience with TV products here OF? Why are you so defensive? (I'm by no means bashing TV ... but my experience with this EO core has been less than stellar even though I want to like it ... this one's never worked right ... at this rate the shipping costs on this core will be 150% of the cost I paid for the core in the first place if I send it in for repair again ... ~$30 each direction ... not 150% incurred by me ... more than half will be at TV's expense ... but still seems ridiculous ... and going on my experience with shipping stuff to and from TV so far, it seems that everything TV sends me gets picked apart at customs which of course causes shipping delays)

If you check back, didn't Tim say 'you shouldn't mess with the screws'?

"Again let me remind you that I DO NOT recommend opening up a core unless you are trained and experienced. You can and likely will damage some of the components which would lead to a more costly rebuild of the core."

If you're going to cite the guy, you probably should get the quote right?

It's your property, by all means do as you think best, but as Tim says "at your own risk".
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/thermovape-cera.8332/page-210#post-438616

Of course its at my own risk and of course it may well cost me more on the repair if I mess it up. Tim also said in that same post that if he was a customer, being of the curious/technical type, he'd probably open one up. Don't twist my words into something they are not. I am just venting my frustrations with this experience with the EO core which I feel is fair and has been done in a respectful manner. I also have a legitimate issue that sending cores in for servicing is more costly and less timely than for most due to my remote location as well as being in another Country--do you not think that this is a legitimate concern when one servicing costs TV and me a total of 60% of the cost of the core in the first place? I would imagine that it should concern TV that Canada Post and USPS will make 50% more money than the retail price of the 2 EO cores I've purchased in less than half a year.