Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

[Darb]

I wonder if anyone else feels this way.

Having been withuot a reliable sr71 for a few days I decided to dig into my cart collection and fill a pair of
5 ohmers. The behavior of them is extremely similar to how one would act in response to the SR71 getting hot enough to keep putting out hits. I keep finding myself trying to do other herc tricks wiht it (oops, can't relight it, that'll burn it out..... oops almost pulled too hard)

I've got about 20 empty carts. I haven't used one in six months or more. The Herc is MUCH better for heavy users. Original carts are ok but I hit too hard and too frequent so they always give me trouble one way or another. (I have a second Herc for backup)

 

[ataxian]

On another note, I really like the Kiss cart.

Using the Kiss I have been loading a tiny amount, maybe .025g.

Kiss makes it easy to sample a wide variety in a short timespan. Which is what I have been doing this evening. Sleepy time is coming on fast.

MaxVapor:

Great News!

Now you have the "CARROT" dangling in my faced!
I check my mailbox daily waiting for my K.I.S.S. cart to arrive!

Like you I had so many 2.4 carts with different waxes I would loose track of what I had?
I just throw away full carts after a while when I don't know what's in them?

I messed up my HERCULES SR71 (My Fault) I have ATAXIA and as a medical patient I have challenges other may not have? (I'm getting worse)

Good thing I have 2 SR71's.

The K.I.S.S. cart sound like it's more PLUG & PLAY!

Time to load up on TRIPLE PURGED SHATTER to have on hand for this new gadget!

Thank you for your assessment!

Kind regards,
ataxian

 

[odogg]

Does the buffer for the coil remain at .5g even when it is cut down to a 40% using a white rod?

 

[Caligula]

Does the buffer for the coil remain at .5g even when it is cut down to a 40%?

No. 40% coil should have a 40% buffer.

 

[Hedonismbot]

if that's a 40% cut coil, then your coil is not sitting all the way down in the herc, my 40% coil, sits a little below the ceramic rod...

if the coil is not all the way down it wont hit right...

just shooting ideas out there, trying to help, good luck

also, I put the uncut side of the coil facing down, just because I feel like it will sit more flush at the bottom of the herc cart...

@ohdono I agree with Rhino420 that your coil seems to large. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like it's a couple of millimeters above the tip of the rod. For stable waxes, like yours appears to be, the coil should be no higher than the tip of the rod and maybe a mm below the tip. You might want to read about my experience with a "40%" coil here. Cutting an additional 2 mm off my coil made a dramatic difference. I went from wispy hits to major clouds.

I was reluctant to cut my coil enough at first because I wanted to reduce how often I had to load wax. But even with my small coil I was able to load 0.8g in as a buffer+initial load in my 2nd Herc. I load in .15 to .2g of wax in at a time and my coil always looks somewhat saturated. Also, as Rhino420 said, the coil must be all the way down or that also causes wispy hits. The smaller coils can rise up when the Herc is hot and you're inhaling at which point the vapor production drops dramatically. This happened to me once.

When everything is adjusted just right you should get lots of vapor in a few seconds of power applied (with fresh AW IMR 18350s).

Hedo

 

[ohdono]

@ohdono I agree with Rhino420 that your coil seems to large. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like it's a couple of millimeters above the tip. of the rod. For stable waxes, like yours appears to be, the coil should be no higher than the tip of the rod and maybe a mm below the tip. You might want to read about my experience with a "40%" coil here. Cutting an additional 2 mm off my coil made a dramatic difference. I went from wispy hits to major clouds.

I was reluctant to cut my coil enough at first because I wanted to reduce how often I had to load wax. But even with my small coil I was able to load 0.8g in as a buffer+initial load in my 2nd Herc. I load in .15 to .2g of wax in at a time and my coil always looks somewhat saturated. Also, as Rhino420 said, the coil must be all the way down or that also causes wispy hits. The smaller coils can rise up when the Herc is hot and your inhaling at which point the vapor production drops dramatically. This happened to me once.

When everything is adjusted just right you should get lots of vapor in a few seconds of power applied (with fresh AW IMR 18350s).

Hedo

I feel like im loading up a decent amount to get much more vapor than what im actually getting. Going to try cutting down my coil a little bit more when I get home so it'll be hardly be over the rod. When I loaded about .3-.5 on a flush coil with the rod, it was gone within the first drag till the persei timed out, without much vapor and not much in the coil. I'm really skeptical that the issue is me not loading enough but I guess I'll try loading more of my wax, but really dont want to waste anymore than I already have testing this over and over again.

I'm running out of ideas trying everything even posting pictures step by step of exactly what im doing and being really patient but am considering meeting up with you G. I've had this thing for over a week and follow everything and tried every way you wanted me to with the mouth piece but its not even close to what everyone else talks about. The herc gets really hot but still doesn't even get red after 2 full holds of the persei till it times out. Is it an issue if it doesn't get red in 5-10 seconds like you all said on FULL AW IMR 18350 3.7V batteries?

here are pictures of ALL the ways i put the mouth piece on the herc WITHOUT the PTFE shield like you posted in pictures WITHOUT much vapor.

1.before I screw in the stainless cap with the ptfe nut

2. stainless cap screwed in with ptfe cap into mouthpiece onto the herc (WITHOUT PTFE SHIELD)

3. stainless screen WITHOUT PTFE NUT, placed into the herc WITHOUT PTFE SHIELD

4. picture of all of them separate with filter screen in mouth piece

besides cutting the coil down a little bit more and maybe melting more wax (i dont think the picture did the amount of wax I melted justice and I'm reluctant to melt the rest of my current wax to prove a point) I dont believe I'm having much user error and can get the herc to heat but its just not producing.. I want to have this set up like everyone elses asap so if I can manage to get it I would like to meet please..

 

[650]

The 5ohm kiss runs hotter then a 2ohm kiss???

Id like to know as well, pros & cons to 2.0 vs 5.0?? Ready to order but now im rethinking the decision on the Ohms...

 

[vape4health]

I cant speak for THC but to me it seems a 5ohm would but much cooler then a 2ohm, less then half the juice at equal volts??

 

[Caligula]

Depends on if they both run at the same voltage. If you recall the 5ohm carts ran at 7.4v. If they both run at 3.4v or whatever, then yes the 5ohm should run cooler I'd think. Maybe this is better for less stable concentrates so they don't splatter as much.

 

[Sleepin in CA]

@ohdono what ceramic rod are you using? Is it all white at the bottom, or is there a black/blue strip between connection points? I'm wondering if you are using the wrong voltage for your ceramic rod.

 

[ohdono]

@ohdono what ceramic rod are you using? Is it all white at the bottom, or is there a black/blue strip between connection points? I'm wondering if you are using the wrong voltage for your ceramic rod.

I am using the white rod

 

[Sleepin in CA]

Then you should be running at 7.4 volts, not 3.7.

 

[ohdono]

Then you should be running at 7.4 volts, not 3.7. Right @THC SCIENTIFIC ?

I am using 2 AW IMR 18350 3.7V which is 7.4

 

[Sleepin in CA]

I am using 2 AW IMR 18350 3.7V which is 7.4

Ahhh ok, I misunderstood an earlier post. Sorry man

 

[ohdono]

Ahhh ok, I misunderstood an earlier post. Sorry man

np thanks for trying to help! much appreciated, really love the active community in this thread

 

[Silver420Surfer]

OK, you're on a 200 Ohm range, what's with the numbers over 200? It's a 3 1/2 digit meter, it should be in the format XYY.Y where X is 1 or 2 and Ys are 1 to 9? Is the decimal not there?

The meter should show overrange (1 with the rest blanked out) when the leads are open. When you short them together it should go to something like 00.6, with the decimal point there no matter. The exact reading when shorted depends on solid contact to get stable readings (generally the lowest number seen), be sure the metal is clean and tightly held and not moving to get a stable reading. The meter test 3 times a second or so, it's likely to 'catch' any shoddy connections.

It's also possible you have a bad lead, it happens. Easy to test, pull one at a time out of it's socket and use the tip of the other to probe the metal sleeve in the jack.

What you get?

OF

Alright I see how the numbers jump, but then settle down. I tested both metal sleeves in the jack, I forget the reading but they both appear to work. So I tested my herc again and numbers jumping but then settled down to a 3.1-3.7 range, I see what you mean by the tests every three seconds. I have the white rod in currently.
I unfortunately don't know if this is good or bad. But we've got readings, so I learned something today, and that's good.

Edit--Now reading 6.0-6.2. Maybe a bad meter.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

@ohdono I don't know what's wrong until I see it, this could be another fluke like atomsk unit.

Nothing else I can do online unless I have the unit in front of me.

Please package it up follow directions on w9tech.com

And address it to me in the note.

@Caligula

Your coils after few people taste testing it I can't seem to get the metal taste your talking about. I'm going to stop testing this now since everyone's taste palette is different and we can not duplicate the taste..

 

[StepInToSpace]

For anyone who already owns a KISS cart, how's it compare to a SR71? I know they're totally different beasts but I'm mainly wondering how they stack up against each other for practicality's sake.

I'm already placing an order for a purple one right now, but wanted to ask anyway...

I love my SR71 and am totally happy taking it everywhere with me but I'm definitely wondering if this'll make me want to pick up my O-PHOS again, maybe even replace my SR71 for an out-of-the-house vape

Do they clog if you pull hard?

For practicality's sake, the KISS cart is the way to go. Can use the short tube for one 18350 making it way more portable. Super easy to load, no clogging. Sacrifice of flavor though.

 

[Hedonismbot]

I feel like im loading up a decent amount to get much more vapor than what im actually getting. Going to try cutting down my coil a little bit more when I get home so it'll be hardly be over the rod. When I loaded about .3-.5 on a flush coil with the rod, it was gone within the first drag till the persei timed out, without much vapor and not much in the coil. I'm really skeptical that the issue is me not loading enough but I guess I'll try loading more of my wax, but really dont want to waste anymore than I already have testing this over and over again.

I'm running out of ideas trying everything even posting pictures step by step of exactly what im doing and being really patient but am considering meeting up with you G. I've had this thing for over a week and follow everything and tried every way you wanted me to with the mouth piece but its not even close to what everyone else talks about. The herc gets really hot but still doesn't even get red after 2 full holds of the persei till it times out. Is it an issue if it doesn't get red in 5-10 seconds like you all said on FULL AW IMR 18350 3.7V batteries?

here are pictures of ALL the ways i put the mouth piece on the herc WITHOUT the PTFE shield like you posted in pictures WITHOUT much vapor.

1.before I screw in the stainless cap with the ptfe nut

2. stainless cap screwed in with ptfe cap into mouthpiece onto the herc (WITHOUT PTFE SHIELD)

3. stainless screen WITHOUT PTFE NUT, placed into the herc WITHOUT PTFE SHIELD

4. picture of all of them separate with filter screen in mouth piece

besides cutting the coil down a little bit more and maybe melting more wax (i dont think the picture did the amount of wax I melted justice and I'm reluctant to melt the rest of my current wax to prove a point) I dont believe I'm having much user error and can get the herc to heat but its just not producing.. I want to have this set up like everyone elses asap so if I can manage to get it I would like to meet please..

It sounds like you're getting it too hot. The wax you are adding is just melting through the coil and through the air intake holes and leaking into the bottom chamber (you can recover most of this). The trick is melting the oil enough to get the coil to hold on to it but not so much as to cause it to leak out into the bottom chamber. In my case, I was stuck in this same cycle until I cut my coil down until it was about 1/2 mm below the tip of the rod. If the wax is too far above the rod then by the time the heat reaches it the rest of the coil its too hot to hold it and the rod is so hot it actually 'chases' the oil away.

With my most difficult to melt waxes I judiciously use a vari temp heat gun to help prime the coil by half melting the wax in before I ever apply power to the heating rod. I've gotten the Herc working with soft Co2 oils to crispy shatters so it is possible. The good news is once you get it dialed in the Herc shouldn't need any more tweaking. Good luck.

Hedo

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

For practicality's sake, the KISS cart is the way to go. Can use the short tube for one 18350 making it way more portable. Super easy to load, no clogging. Sacrifice of flavor though.

These type of carts are simply inferior to e hercs tAste capabilities. But we are gonna make it better.

 

[exit]

@THC SCIENTIFIC

I was thinking of trying a kiss cart with my persei...

question #1 is, are the old tops not designed to handle these new kiss carts, like the new SR-71's?

I have an old persei, with old tops. so I have no warranty. I run a SR-71 with the white and black rods, with no problems... but I also know how to check to see if I assembled the herc correctly.

question #2 is, is there a way to meter these carts to make sure not to fry my old top, because I would really like to prevent myself from trying one of these kiss carts, without worrying about purchasing an upgraded warranty for my persei.

TIA

-ryan

from my experience being in the same position as you, the old tops will work if you're super careful, but the new style tops are 1000x more reliable and tolerant to fuckups. i ran my sr71 on a single old style tops for months without problems until i tried using it with the center pin down too far.

i can't speak to the KISS carts since i haven't ever used or seen one but at least with the SR-71 I'd just run it until you fry both your tops, when that happens buy a warranty so you have the most time possible to keep blowing tops!

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

@Rhino420 sorry missed your questions.

1. yes the tops can handle kiss easily. But the tops are still not as reliable as the new ones.

2. there is no way to meter it so it wont fry your cart.

 

[Hedonismbot]

One little tidbit I discovered that I want to pass on. I noticed the resistance of my Herc was starting to increase over time as read by my Iris top. I'm now in the habit of checking the Herc resistance with the Iris every time before I press the power button. Normal white rod resistance is about 1.5 ohms at room temperature and I was seeing readings in the 2 and 3 ohm range. This represents a major power loss to the Herc itself because this extra resistance is in the connections. At first I would just tighten or loosen the cartridge a tad and I'd be back at 1.4-1.5 ohms.

Looking into this more closely I realized that in the process of screwing the Herc onto the Persei top the center pin screws in the bottom insulator of the Herc were gradually screwing together until they were losing contact. I had unscrewed these center pins about 1-1.25 turns initially but when I checked them the were almost totally screwed back together again. When I unscrewed these a turn my resistance reading returned to a solid 1.4 ohms. So now I'm going to check this much more often. Any one else see this?

Hedo

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

One little tidbit I discovered that I want to pass on. I noticed the resistance of my Herc was starting to increase over time as read by my Iris top. I'm now in the habit of checking the Herc resistance with the Iris every time before I press the power button. Normal white rod resistance is about 1.5 ohms at room temperature and I was seeing readings in the 2 and 3 ohm range. This represents a major power loss to the Herc itself because this extra resistance is in the connections. At first I would just tighten or loosen the cartridge a tad and I'd be back at 1.4-1.5 ohms.

Looking into this more closely I realized that in the process of screwing the Herc onto the Persei top the center pin screws in the bottom insulator of the Herc were gradually screwing together until they were losing contact. I had unscrewed these center pins about 1-1.25 turns initially but when I checked them the were almost totally screwed back together again. When I unscrewed these a turn my resistance reading returned to a solid 1.4 ohms. So now I'm going to check this much more often. Any one else see this?

Hedo

I will get all the issues resolved this week. The center pins are not a issue we foresaw but the next upgrades will fix this issue.

That is what you get when you make everything user adjustable.

 

[PhotoRider]

Yes, compression tightening from assembly.

Also note the resistance increases as it warms up, so the rod must be somewhat cool to read the low value. And yes room temp is ok.

G so true, the more adjustments, the more opportunity for an issue. However its a major prototype really and continual improvement allows you to resolve the issues from feedback. The good news is you are small and you can update on each build. If you were large and initially bought say 50,000 units it would be costly retrofits

There are always trade offs.

Btw I don't think this ones a big deal really. Simply check the screw and back off a little. The screw on the bottom SS tube is the worst one.

My question is does one need to disassemble that screw and isolator washer? I think normally no. Maybe some type of lock tight or something or an inter lip to stop the washer from slipping in more. The point is the washer can compress and deform if over tightened.