subway13029
Well-Known Member
Yeah yours is made with a m2m instead of normal adapter??also looks like you kept more of plastic on your piece??
The Mighty/Mighty+ by Storz & Bickel
- Thread starter Roger D
- Start date
CarbonFiberGuy
Well-Known Member
Yes I used a 14mm female to 14mm male adapter as when I made this piece I only had one piece of glass a PV F-bomb , I liked this adapter because the middle glass ring was the same diameter as the F-bomb , it just looks nice when put together
. I use a low pro 18mm adapter when I want to go to something bigger .
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subway13029
Well-Known Member
How does it go into the plastic of the mighty?looks so different from mine..lol
CarbonFiberGuy
Well-Known Member
subway I think the plastic your talking about is actually JB weld.
I taped off the line of JB weld on the outside and sprayed a coat of high temp flat black paint to cover the grey JBweld and make it look all one piece . This very small amount of high temp paint was ONLY used around the TINY ring of JB weld you see on the OUTSIDE , this should not cause a problem since it is not inside the airpath . It has also been impervious to iso and the many cleanings so far. This was only done for aesthetics .
I also used a silicone tool sold at hardware stores for wiping a clean caulk line its like $3 (much better than your imperfect finger) .That's how the line looks so clean and not messy you can rest the silicone edges of the tool on the edge of the plastic and edge of the glass and get a really clean line .
I taped off the line of JB weld on the outside and sprayed a coat of high temp flat black paint to cover the grey JBweld and make it look all one piece . This very small amount of high temp paint was ONLY used around the TINY ring of JB weld you see on the OUTSIDE , this should not cause a problem since it is not inside the airpath . It has also been impervious to iso and the many cleanings so far. This was only done for aesthetics .
I also used a silicone tool sold at hardware stores for wiping a clean caulk line its like $3 (much better than your imperfect finger) .That's how the line looks so clean and not messy you can rest the silicone edges of the tool on the edge of the plastic and edge of the glass and get a really clean line .
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wildything
Well-Known Member
Hey everyone, I am now the proud new onwer of the mighty! I ended up getting it at my lhs yesterday for almost 100 more than puffitup after the coupon. But so Im really digging the effects it produces. I was messing around and ended up just using the liquid pad as a spacer for best results. Does anyone know a good place to grab some replacements? Also my mighty is a 35xxx but it has the single vibration on power up and double vibrate when it reaches proper temp or when it turns off. I thought they changed the vibration settings recently but I can't complain about it was just curious. Only thing I have noticed is it will sometimes turn off on me via time out if my draws are not big enough.
subway13029
Well-Known Member
My only concern with your muzz mod edition you have made is that youbsaid you scratched up the plastic and glass..with the og muzz mos method you go ahead and put the glass and plastic pice form mighty together then put a bead of jb around the outside..did you put it between the glass and plastic to help it bond? I was trying to stay away from any of the jb bing anywhere exposed fo the inners..only put a bead on the outside..i have been having good reselts with the easy flow one just gotta make some cuts here and there for an easier fit and fotta use a screen on top of load but i do that anyways..
vapviking
Old & In the Way
Glad to hear you've dialed in the Vapefiend adapter, I recall you had a small problem. I wish now they were more readily available in US. And that the manufacturer or someone would tweak the design since it's about 95 percent of the way to a perfect solution.
Have there been assurances from manufacturer about the composite material used on the Vapefiend base? I believe they're made in China?
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
Welcome, @wildything !
I'm sure you can get extra pads from S&B, PIU, or other vape vendors. But as a spacer, I prefer using a traditional screen in place of the pad. Just cut a wedge out of it so it looks like pac man. Draw the edges together to make a cone and you're good to go.
Others here have fashioned a screen into a dome and attached it to the cu. there are pictures on here or the Crafty thread. It looks like a great solution; I just haven't tried that yet.
Enjoy your new toy!
@Mr. Me2 does your pacman screen mod not scratch up the sides of the metal conduction ring? I still have both of my Mighty's, one that is the newer updated one and an OG. The OG has never seen the pacman screen, only the dome - and the bowl looks like it is new. My most recent Mighty 23XXX I used that mod several times until I discovered the dome screen mod, and the bowl looks like a trainwreck! It can only point to the screen causing the scratches, and then resin sets in and stains. Magic eraser works pretty good, but not great.
Regardless, just a fair warning for those that try the screen on top to secure the load instead of using the pad or dome screen. It's just an aesthetic damage and does not affect function, but it bothers me enough to stop using the screen on top.
Regardless, just a fair warning for those that try the screen on top to secure the load instead of using the pad or dome screen. It's just an aesthetic damage and does not affect function, but it bothers me enough to stop using the screen on top.
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
I have not seen that problem, but I don't push the pac man screen deep into the oven. That may be the solution.... I guess I fill the oven more than you, though still less than a full load.
MonkeyTime
Well-Known Member
Bio,
So the domed version hasn't scratched up the bowl for you? I was going to try just using a screen with my small loads, I love the liquid pad, but it scratched up both of my Crafty's and now it's starting in on my Mighty.
Looks like tonight I'll make a muzzmod and try both the screen and dome methods before the bowl gets much worse......just starting to see the scratching from the pad.
Healthy green all,
MT
dirtdragon
Well-Known Member
I believe the screen in the bowl causes more conduction and therefore bigger, better clouds. It does scratch the bowl but small sacrifice.
So the steel pad scratches too? I didn't know that, but I never ever use it. Although it definitely adds more conduction, i'm not sure it would be the same for just a screen?
I pretty much only used the screen on top for VERY small loads, so it would get pushed down deep, and be a bit of a bitch to get out, hence the pacman cut.
Anyways, the screen method works great, just thought i'd give a fair warning "heads up" that it may cause scratches that look like poo.
I pretty much only used the screen on top for VERY small loads, so it would get pushed down deep, and be a bit of a bitch to get out, hence the pacman cut.
Anyways, the screen method works great, just thought i'd give a fair warning "heads up" that it may cause scratches that look like poo.
cloudsosmoke
Well-Known Member
i found on my crafty (same bowl size) that 2cm (0.7874in) cheap pipe screen can be pacmanned and is still big enough to sit snugly on white part of bowl rim (because their shapes are the same) and it wont fall in
.. and because its on very top of the bowl its easy to take on and off
i was worried about closing the c/u with something on top of bowl adding height but there seems to be the clearance - inner ring of c/u i think doesnt touch white part of bowl - airtight seal is formed by outer ring
hope that makes sense
.. and because its on very top of the bowl its easy to take on and off
i was worried about closing the c/u with something on top of bowl adding height but there seems to be the clearance - inner ring of c/u i think doesnt touch white part of bowl - airtight seal is formed by outer ring
hope that makes sense
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Hey all...been a long while. Many miles - I've had the Mighty since the beginning -or close to- and I love it. It is my go-to for the moment (and has been for a while), my only issue being -drumroll- this is my third one. They have been great to deal with (I bought it directly). First one - was great but then the temp feature or battery went wonky (would go up VERY slowly and then plunge). I returned and received a new one with some tweaks...2 minute time out. That worked great until one day it didn't. I had just vaped. Put it down and came back a couple of hours later to find that hitting the power button did nothing. Zippo. This was also exchanged for a new model...very professionally and quickly. No complaints - just a report. I hope folks are enjoying it as much as I am. I do have a question for the Mighty experts, however, as I DON'T want to screw up my current model...
In the early days, I think there were some issues using it while charging...Has that been addressed? I have only charged it up, let the batteries go to the first block and then charge. Are people successfully using this while plugged in. It would make things much simpler. Or is it better to just use the battery, drain, rinse, repeat...
Also, do people clean their brushes and grinder? If so, whats the methodology...Are they ok with quick washes of ISO?
Thanks and over and out!
In the early days, I think there were some issues using it while charging...Has that been addressed? I have only charged it up, let the batteries go to the first block and then charge. Are people successfully using this while plugged in. It would make things much simpler. Or is it better to just use the battery, drain, rinse, repeat...
Also, do people clean their brushes and grinder? If so, whats the methodology...Are they ok with quick washes of ISO?
Thanks and over and out!
I use it plugged in with a FULL charge. S&B told me that this essentially "mostly" bypasses the battery.
Am I the only one that has never had a problem with the Mighty?? Have had 4 of them (sold first 2) and they never skip a beat. I think I now have anxiety that the power button is going to break lol
vapviking
Old & In the Way
Real glad to hear about the full charge/ plugin use of Mighty, 'cause I've been doing a lot of that! You can watch it change from heating (steady) to charging (blinking) and back, and it manages to more than just 'keep up'.
I've now been Crafty-ing(3) and Mighty-ing(1) for just over a year, four units, no power button issues.
Having settled on Mighty, and to answer you; It's been a four+ month all-daily medium-heavy driver for two people and has not flinched. There's a chance I'm not getting as many sessions/charge, could be just 5 instead of 6 or 7, but I've not really checked that; I don't let it run all the way down often, and my load sizes vary all the time. Heat-up is still very quick. Though I may never be able to say that again after the Hopper lands!
LouFeinberg
Well-Known Member
I don't think so. I haven't either, and I seem to remember a bit further back in the thread a good-sized batch of folks saying the same thing. It's the nature of online support forums that people with problems tend to post the most. I'm actually very pleasantly surprised by how many people chime in just to say how much they're loving their Mighty!
That's how I did too: epoxy on the outside only. If you use it like glue -- ie, in between the two pieces -- it's not as strong. The idea is to build it up on the outside, to basically create a single piece of gear from the two separate pieces.
I confess that my first muzzmod attempt did indeed become undone, but when I did it the second time, I took this idea of an external fusion much more seriously. I guarantee that right now, if I tried smashing it with a hammer, I'd be able to smash everything to smithereens EXCEPT for that bond. The sun will go nova, and those two pieces are still gonna be epoxied together.
My point being that it's never going to be the case that epoxy itself isn't up to the task. It's that it needed to be applied differently, or better, or more of it, or whatever one's individual case may be.
But hey, using the epoxy glue-style AND using it epoxy-style on the outside works better, I may go for it the next time, but I too was kinda paranoid about wanting to keep it out of the vapor path. But when I make another, I'll definitely be generous with the external epoxy application, and now have a goal to make mine look as pretty as CarbonFiberGuy's.
Sounds like it's not charged up to full? After a FULL CHARGE, there should not be any charging when used plugged in. If it's charging and heating, I wouldn't be doing it. I would only use it plugged in while charging in an absolute emergency.
Or perhaps i'm just not being observant enough?
MinnBobber
Well-Known Member
...............
I'm getting ready to build muzzmod and initial plan is :
- tiny bead of silicone just under bottom ring of 14 mm F glass joint. Like a gasket sealant that's silicone safe
- outside of glass joint, big ass JB mound to grab a big area of glass.
....................................................
"Mostly bypasses the battery" (WHEN plugged in and using simultaneously) from S & B engineers means one thing to me --- Do Not use this way if you care about trying to maximize battery life. For me personally-but others may feel fine using this
Charging and using at the same time is very bad for Li Ion batteries and mostly bypassing the battery is not 100% bypassing it.
It will not wreck your battery but likely put it under more thermal stress which can impact battery life.
Wish they added a switch to totally lock out the battery for plug in use
?? How many watts is the Mighty heater, please??
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THE KISS FREAK
Rock & Roll All Night & Party Every Day!
@MinnBobber , heater is 36 Watts. Hope that helps you
Spocks_Katra
Well-Known Member
My mighty is a lifesaver for flareups, the larger bowl size and quick heat up times, and overall quick session times are a god send.
I have to wait ~12 min for my air to heat up and have a 10 min session.
My mighty takes about 1 min to heat up and my sessions last ~5min
does anyone else have a mighty with temp that doesnt stay set on the desired temp
I will set mine to 385 for example, and it will go back and forth between 381 or 2 and 388, is this normal? it doesnt seem to be effecting performance but wanted to be sure
I have to wait ~12 min for my air to heat up and have a 10 min session.
My mighty takes about 1 min to heat up and my sessions last ~5min
does anyone else have a mighty with temp that doesnt stay set on the desired temp
I will set mine to 385 for example, and it will go back and forth between 381 or 2 and 388, is this normal? it doesnt seem to be effecting performance but wanted to be sure