Discontinued The Grasshopper

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
@MoltenTiger I actually did not take that previous photo you linked, that one you linked was taken by Justin at radvaperreviews, and I agree its a good shot, actually one of the ones that made me realize it was time to save up for a better camera haha.

As far as screens, the new one they were referring to was the honeycomb one inside the mouthpiece. Originally they had a much different and more finicky screen that needed cleaned much more often, and it was easier to mess up by poking at it during cleaning.
Ah okay, I knew you had taken one of the blueness so I was trying to hunt it down.
Well I'm glad on the better camera, I remember back in the day I fell asleep after watching your just released slick 4K review in all its glory, before being woken by the post guy with my Vapefiend order. Was a surreal time indeed and I've been elevated ever since (well, just about :p).
Your review/coverage sold me on this pen and I'm pretty stoked with how it all panned out, so cheers for your efforts.

I thought that was the case with the screen, and they are pretty impressive with avoiding gunk build up. I have been using hoppers nearly all year and I reckon I've only cleaned them 4 or 5 times
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
I believe fuschia or purple to be more correct than pink as there's no green LED, though hot pink and fuschia are practically synonymous, so you know, no need for an argument there :ko:
The devices I work with have green and red LEDs, which when combined makes an orange. It's a little trippy, like the colour yellow on an LCD. Some newer devices we have in development have RGBs, which are snazzy but without good diffusion through a light pipe the colour mixes aren't amazing.
Anyways,
https://www.reddit.com/r/GrassHopperVape/comments/52i09v/solid_purple_lights_of_death/?
There's been a few cases of purple lights and it seems to usually require a replacement body via warranty..
The new Ti body that I recently got is the one doing the pink lights. But it stopped that behavior after a 24 time-out I had put it in for mis-behaving. It was also not able to charge a battery, though it did make vapor.
After this rest period, and I really don't precisely remember my gyrations but I'm certain I spun things and twisted things back/forth, cleaned threads, etc -- last night I filled it, clicked on and lights went normal red to blue, nice vapor, all good!
Except that red lights can come on kinda randomly (even a tap on the table did it!) when unit is clicked off! Not only when replacing battery, that little red flutter, but when I turn temp selector back/forth the lights flicker. The other interesting thing is that it will now charge a battery, when before it would not.
So, today I'm going to try some gymnastics with my other 'currently working' hopper, swapping parts, etc.
I think this time I'm encountering more than one of the "240" things that can go wrong!
 

CapitalFlower

Well-Known Member
Why didn't HL put the threads near the body instead of at the end. Then you could load it easier without the herb gumming up the threads
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Why didn't HL put the threads near the body instead of at the end. Then you could load it easier without the herb gumming up the threads
The answer (I think) is hard to describe, or at least is taxing my brain atm.

If male threads were to be added farther down the body (nearer the lights), that would then require that the shaft extending from there into mouthpiece would have to be slightly smaller diameter, so the female threads on mp end could clear. Then there would need to be another 'step' or rise, if you will, inside the mouthpiece beyond the threads to match it to the body cylinder's shaft. I think the machining might be more difficult, less likely to be successful? And the extra step would take up more room, maybe even having to reduce chamber size, though that seems unlikely.
Or
Note that, the existing mouthpiece threads are started down where the conical tip begins, and so they're cut onto a slightly smaller diameter than the mp wall itself. This is a handy place to get the clearance needed for the body threads.

To quote the Frank Zappa refrain, "I may be totally wrong..."

Or, maybe you understood all this before and were just lamenting gummed up threads! Maybe H2.0 can have magnetic mouthpiece...
 

tubasco

Well-Known Member
Why didn't HL put the threads near the body instead of at the end. Then you could load it easier without the herb gumming up the threads
I believe it's because the threads are much less likely to be dented where they are now.
If the threads were at the opening of the front end they would dent often, as the front end can simply be squeezed with fingers to be made slightly out of round.
 

klipsch

Well-Known Member
@MoltenTiger This is the photo of my first hopper version (right) and my second version (left) I believe the one you linked a page back is the 2nd version or potentially the third. Unfortunately I had a crummy camera back then so I am not sure if it will help you at all.
TAz0VuI.jpg

What SN# was your first? I have a TI #92 and it looks like your 2nd version.
 
klipsch,

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Why didn't HL put the threads near the body instead of at the end. Then you could load it easier without the herb gumming up the threads

Could also be that the threads in the mouthpiece for the mouthpiece screen are the same threads used to attach to the body; if the threads on the body were lower, then the mouthpiece threads would have to continue down (up?) towards the opening. There would be more threads than necessary and to remove the mouthpiece screen you'd have a LOT more turns to make to unscrew it all the way out or back in.
 

tubasco

Well-Known Member
Could also be that the threads in the mouthpiece for the mouthpiece screen are the same threads used to attach to the body; if the threads on the body were lower, then the mouthpiece threads would have to continue down (up?) towards the opening. There would be more threads than necessary and to remove the mouthpiece screen you'd have a LOT more turns to make to unscrew it all the way out or back in.
They are indeed the same threads, but hear me out: if you pinch the big opening of the front end it bends. Now imagine threads at that spot.
The way the front end is currently allows it to be screwed onto the body even if the big end is slightly warped, which DOES happen. (The last warranty Front End I received was a little squished from shipping, but once I was able to slide it onto the body it threaded perfectly.)
 

CapitalFlower

Well-Known Member
^^this. I have also fond that finer herbs, specially those with a higher resin content, may clog up easier and constrain the airflow thru the material. I prefer a not too fine grind and a not too tightly packed bowl.
Since its all convection do you think it matters if you don't grind up the herb at all? Just pull off buds?
 
CapitalFlower,

Roland Blaze

Well-Known Member
After 2 months of very careful use my Grasshopper has gone again (3rd time). This time just red light and nothing else happens.

Kept it immaculate, deoxit gold, blue tak, kept in 3d printed case when not in use...etc.. you name it (as i did with it last 2 times also and it still broke) and yet it's gone again. I call bullshit on all these methods .. just vapour being blown up our arses... (please see vid for explanation of my arse comment, it will make more sense, and is actually Quite Interesting ;) )


Dont waste your money on dexoit etc.. your just wasting your money, and think very carefully before purchasing one especially if you live in the UK as its very likely going to waste alot of your time and money.

Vent over.. time to break out the tried and trusted Arizer Air...
 
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JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Since its all convection do you think it matters if you don't grind up the herb at all? Just pull off buds?

I think it does matter; a bud has thickness/diameter. And while it may have apparent surface area for a few hits worth of vapor, the penetration of heated air through the bud is virtually nil. So that means you gotta crank it on 5 and waste a lot of heat energy just to get the insides of the bud to extract. :2c:
 

tubasco

Well-Known Member
After 2 months of very careful use my Grasshopper has gone again (3rd time). This time just red light and nothing else happens.

Kept it immaculate, deoxit gold, blue tak, kept in 3d printed case when not in use...etc.. you name it (as i did with it last 2 times also and it still broke) and yet it's gone again. I call bullshit on all these methods .. just vapour being blown up our arses...


Dont waste your money on dexoit etc.. your just wasting your money, and think very carefully before purchasing one especially if you live in the UK as its very likely going to waste alot of your time and money.

Vent over.. time to break out the tried and trusted Arizer Air...

Damn! Sorry you're dealing with yet another loss!

Out of curiosity: did you often adjust temps?
(I have a theory that the battery contact inside the body is only a gold plating, directly onto the circuit board, and over time with the temp dial twisting this coating wears off to the point that it doesn't conduct enough to heat the unit.)
 

Roland Blaze

Well-Known Member
Damn! Sorry you're dealing with yet another loss!

Out of curiosity: did you often adjust temps?
(I have a theory that the battery contact inside the body is only a gold plating, directly onto the circuit board, and over time with the temp dial twisting this coating wears off to the point that it doesn't conduct enough to heat the unit.)

Ahh thanks.. your very kind...

Yup I did indeed, would step up by 1 notch after few hits from each upto about 3.5-4 then hit it on the glass (not litterally.. lol) on 5 to get every last bit out.

On looking at mine tho with a torch I can see that the inside of the body is like it was on day one, not to say though that might not be happening with some other Grasshoppers possibly.
 
Roland Blaze,
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BadDog No

Well-Known Member
jjL5590 asked:
Since its all convection do you think it matters if you don't grind up the herb at all? Just pull off buds?

I remember at least one 'hopper poster from way back who found great success just packing little buds. In fact two major (well, for the vaping community) manufacturers recommend not grinding your herb. Admittedly we're in the minority, but some of us have given up grinding. Oh that would be the Supreme and eNano folks recommending buds over grind. And of course YMMV. :)
Oh, major disclaimer: I actually haven't tried bud packing in a hopper yet but it works like a charm in the Milaana and FF and Supreme and even the EQ so that's naturally going to be the way I try it. Usually I'll get a few pulls and then dump the buds out and just use my fingers to remove any wood and repack. Possible that as small a bowl as the 'Hopper has I'll have to do a rough tear of my bud and pack that instead. My address confirmation is due next week so I'm actually daring to fantasize about owning one. I'll probably be buying accessories too...
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
Since its all convection do you think it matters if you don't grind up the herb at all? Just pull off buds?

My first load ever on my hopper was with a pinched off bud. The second was with a load I ground up by hand. Just broke things apart into a fluffy pile. The difference in vapor production and flavor was very noticeable with the ground load being much more productive on all fronts.

After 2 months of very careful use my Grasshopper has gone again (3rd time). This time just red light and nothing else happens.

Kept it immaculate, deoxit gold, blue tak, kept in 3d printed case when not in use...etc.. you name it (as i did with it last 2 times also and it still broke) and yet it's gone again. I call bullshit on all these methods .. just vapour being blown up our arses...

Dont waste your money on dexoit etc.. your just wasting your money, and think very carefully before purchasing one especially if you live in the UK as its very likely going to waste alot of your time and money.

Vent over.. time to break out the tried and trusted Arizer Air...

Sorry that you're having so many hurtin' hoppers, but it seems to me that the arse-blown methods have proven quite successful for a number of folks. Doesn't mean they're the cure-all for every issue, though. Did your hopper fail the same way each of the three times? Which parts did GHL replace the first two times?

Still knockin' on all kinds of wood here because so far both my hoppers seem to be working fine with cucumber cool back ends, so I haven't had to try any fixes. I did use Blu Tack and iso on threads as part of the initial out-of-the-box cleaning but I highly doubt I'll be using any of the chemical approaches.
 
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invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
My opinion so far of this pen is other than impressive heat up (for a dry herb device), I have not yet been blown away.
Perhaps I've been using a concentrate pen to fill this role of "discrete portability" for so long I'm expecting too much.
 

tubasco

Well-Known Member
Ahh thanks.. your very kind...

Yup I did indeed, would step up by 1 notch after few hits from each upto about 3.5-4 then hit it on the glass (not litterally.. lol) on 5 to get every last bit out.

On looking at mine tho with a torch I can see that the inside of the body is like it was on day one, not to say though that might not be happening with some other Grasshoppers possibly.
I'll bet you have the "checkerboard" wear pattern on the gold circle. If you look at a brand new hopper's contact (right where the positive tip of the battery touches) you'll see that it has almost like a scratch-off lottery ticket look to it.
 
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