CapitalFlower
Well-Known Member
Has anyone taken apart a hopper to have a look at the 3d printed heater?
Discontinued The Grasshopper
- Thread starter midgetsanchez
- Start date
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
It's the blue thing under the screen in the chamber. It's basically a bunch of screens stacked together with massive surface area for it's size *repeat after me: reddit is a useless source of information*
Photo cred: sourced via google via https://radvapereviews.wordpress.com/tag/grasshopper-vaporizer/
Interestingly, they state (in their thorough, quality review);
I always thought that was the case, but on reddit someone was adamant I was wrong. I'm willing to believe this article over them.
Better picture of screen? Re-curious now.
It makes sense to cover the heater as it prevents/delays conduction and hides the probable fancy shape of the heater...
Furthermore, the article offers this and for references sake, also the image in my next post. Very potent bit of hopper info, that review
I found, and it's in my post history (which is out of hand so good luck), a very likely candidate for the heater design. I would have said turbine over shell, but yeah.. interesting
If you agree that that is in fact of interest, seriously check out the review. Hats off to the author, or artist I feel I should say because it's so on point
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CapitalFlower
Well-Known Member
How does it heat up? Is it ceramic?
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Not a ceramic, metal (I think some particular stainless steel compound)
It's a 3D-printed/laser-sintered metal heat exchanger produced in a previously unobtainable geometry, allowing for the efficient energy transfer from air to herb.
It behaves like a ceramic, kind of. The metal heater acts as a resistor due to high current passing through it, causing eddy currents in its constituents molecular structures to form some kind of friction causing energy in the form of heat.
The heat it reaches is selected by an algorithm of energy pulses by adjusting the back end, and it only heats up to the temperature the herb is intended to arrive at (hence no combustion).
Pretty marvellous, all things considered.
This should be fact checked, but I think the gist is accurate
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
Well, I'm glad to see that they at least are acknowledging their QA and RMA issue which is not true of all vape manufacturers. So, kudos for that.
wrt to automated testing equipment (ATE) and burn-in (the pre-ship 2000 on/off cycles):
The ATE should hopefully dramatically increase consistency and throughput of manufacturing. I believe that they will still need to fault isolate and determine root cause of returned failures and feed that back into their ATE design...all ATE does is test selected metrics against a selected criteria. Results need to be evaluated in a feedback loop with ATE tweaking but I view this as a very good thing.
The burn-in - also a well accepted method of eliminating infant mortality. They are doing it on a full assembly, which is fine, but if they don't clear their problems up they may want to push burn-in further back in the production cycle (i.e. to their suppliers) as its cheaper and easier to find and fix faults earlier in the process. If all they are doing is cycling the unit on/off that's better than nothing but they may want to consider some kind of stress (environmental, running it on 5, whatever) to help drive out early failures. It would benefit them from a financial and PR point of view to drive these failures out before they are visible to their customers.
Just my never humble opinion! LOL They seem to be doing some very right stuff to improve, but the proof is in the reliability and durability of shipped units so we will see.
Cheers
TheWhisper
Well-Known Member
It's the blue thing under the screen in the chamber. It's basically a bunch of screens stacked together with massive surface area for it's size
I'm still surprised we haven't seen someone do a Hopper teardown. I know we're all awaiting one!
vapviking
Old & In the Way
It's the blue thing under the screen in the chamber. It's basically a bunch of screens stacked together with massive surface area for it's size
Nice, I have not seen this before.
Is that a stock HL photo or one of yours? It doesn't look like this has ever been used! Is the chamber screen threaded in like the mp screen?
MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Same. After my discoveries and edit of post ^^^^^^ I am as curious as ever.
I think it's pushed/clipped in place
AJS
Calm Consistency
It comes with DDaves Kit for the Milaana. It's intended to be used dry to maintain flavor and reduce harshness, but using it as the item it is, a bubbler, is very fun with the GH, as the vapor cooling is instant in a tiny package.
He's warned me multiple times against using it over electronics, but, hey, Watcha gunna do. I hope I don't learn my lesson the hard way, and that everything works out.
In the end, I won't be using it for that purpose very often, but it's exciting knowing that I can. I've always wanted a little water tool like this, and it works better than I imagine. Putting it on the GH make you feel like you're just pulling on a low powered conduction vape and then BAM, it hits you before you even had time to click off your unit. That's why I didn't clear the load for longer on my second hit, my lungs were ready to burst before I even clicked it off hahaha.
"Hey man, I don't think it's worki.. *boom*"
To load, I use @Ratchett 's Doob Toobs from Delta3DStudios.com.
They're smell proof, and normally I can load faster, but the grinder I've been using makes it coarser (been loving it), and so I need to tap the sides more during loading to get everything to settle as far down as possible. With fine herb, it just pours right in.
My Doob tubes are no longer smell proof, I think because I have small chunks in the crevice of the lid which may impact the seal. They're still plenty enough for my needs, and they're always in my eGo case anyways.
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GreenHopper
20 going on 60
Yeh I've been using the GrassHopper through an MFLB Orbiter for a few weeks and your description is bang on!
In an instant you go from thinking there is no vapor in your lungs and then the next moment you are scrabbling for the clicker and hoping you can clear the bowl.
To help with comparisons:
Strain: Blue Cheese
Grind: Medium
H: Dry (almost crumbly)
Temp: 5
Glass: MFLB Orbiter
Chamber: 2/3 side tapped but no tamping
Hit: First of the evening
Result: I forgot what I was doing for about 5min during the editing of this post
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YaFreekin Right
Well-Known Member
CapitalFlower
Well-Known Member
Thanks, it looks neat but I've already got the Pinnacle Pro water tool so not sure if it's worth it.
Is the 10mm or 14mm better for the hopper?
Also quick question, how long are you guys waiting for a return? Like if you send your hopper in cos it's stopped working, how long before you get it back?
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JoeMama
Well-Known Member
You know, with all these "upgrades" they are doing, I'm almost looking forward to needing a warranty replacement.
vapviking
Old & In the Way
14mm for the Hopper. This fits for native or for silicone mp.
I realized that I was not getting great seal with either of those ways on Pinnacle water piece (knockoff) nor on my nice5 14/18mm glass adapter from Oregon Glass (use that on a different glass piece). So I tried one of these:
http://delta3dstudios.com/nearly-universal-vape-to-waterpipe-adapter-large/
I'm very, very pleased with this adapter, fits great on Hopper and is both 14 and 18mm male.
Warranty for Hopper has been very easy in my cases. Online claim form, you describe the behavior (light patterns, etc.) and often the reply will be three days max., usually less: often they will tell you that they are sending a new part (Body) and you should return the old one after receiving the new one. Mine claims have usually taken about a week + or - to have working Hopper in hand. (in US) There are some times they ask you to return the whole thing, with charger and battery, and this will obviously add some time.
AJS
Calm Consistency
Two things ...
Lot of people have mentioned spinning their backed dial to combat hot backend.
My dial is normally very smooth. When I twist it back and forth over and over, it gets harder to twist, until it makes almost like a squeak. This is when I get a not so hot backend. So when it's "tighter" is when it tends to work better. Not sure why. Maybe I need to get some compressed air to shoot in there when that "tightness" comes.
Second thing. I've heard people mention removing the backend when twisting the dial. Do they mean twisting, as in, the method above ... Or do they mean twisting in the sense of just turning your dial to set temperatures..? I'm not too fond of the idea of taking my backend off whenever I want to change temps haha. Someone clarify please.
Lot of people have mentioned spinning their backed dial to combat hot backend.
My dial is normally very smooth. When I twist it back and forth over and over, it gets harder to twist, until it makes almost like a squeak. This is when I get a not so hot backend. So when it's "tighter" is when it tends to work better. Not sure why. Maybe I need to get some compressed air to shoot in there when that "tightness" comes.
Second thing. I've heard people mention removing the backend when twisting the dial. Do they mean twisting, as in, the method above ... Or do they mean twisting in the sense of just turning your dial to set temperatures..? I'm not too fond of the idea of taking my backend off whenever I want to change temps haha. Someone clarify please.
moondog
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
Yeh I believe if you are going to twist your temp dial multiple times in a row to attempt a hot backend resolution then you should remove it from the body.
When you twist the temp dial it twists the backend gold contact and thus the battery too.
There was concern that the twisting of the positive end of the battery against the body's gold contact may wear out the gold plating.
The Grasshopper post #11436
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
As what prior responses say, twisting with backend off only for remedying a hot back end.
Though, I have a question here... Blowing compressed air to shoot in... where?! That little tiny narrow separation between the temp dial and the stationary part of the backend? I don't think air will even try to get in there without being vented away aerodynamically around it. Some have mentioned "dental floss", but I haven't found floss that is fine enough (and UNwaxed) to try and fit in there.
EDIT: FURTHER REGARDING THE FEEDER
Few days ago, I said I'd try and figure out the Feeder a bit better and report back...
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-grasshopper.18482/page-522#post-1042522
In that post I mentioned that I had to really intend to over-shake the feeder to get an over-sized hopper load. That load consistently measured 0.17 to 0.19 grams, which I consider an oversized load (I don't necessarily believe that's a bad thing, for this reason that I'll describe at bottom).
Having taken a better look inside the mechanism, and seeing that the bolt-action "trench" wasn't obstructed (as I'd thought it was), the only shaking necessary is purely in the up/down direction.
I had been shaking it at different angles, errantly visualizing something like a simple "maze" that the herb had to get through to the trench. I was wrong, bigly.
So, rather than intentionally over-shaking the feeder in the unlocked position (ie, just before actually plunging the herb into the hopper chamber) , I do the over-shaking in the locked position. This is the no-mercy shake, and it's intended to wake up each little grain of herb so it's as fluffy as possible inside the feeder.
I attach the Hopper, unlock the feeder, and then use either three or four strictly-up/down shakes OR a few solid two-finger taps on the top of the feeder (imparting downward motion to the contents, not the feeder itself, of course).
Bing bing bing, boing boing boing, and it's a nice 0.07-0.13g load.
I stated above I'd explain why I don't think a 0.18g load isn't necessarily a bad thing. So...
If I place 0.18g in the hopper using the funnel method, by poking (not tamping) down the material gently and evenly, my sense is that the herb is not smashing up against the oven screen in such a way as to cause some passage of material onto the heater element. Yes, it's overfilled in my opinion, but I suppose it would be just fine. I think I'd waste weed though, not enough airflow to evenly cook.
OK, I'm done. Thanks for dealing with my inanely overthunk analysis.
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vapeOR
Well-Known Member
How about some sewing thread?
JoeMama
Well-Known Member
What if it broke in there!
AJS
Calm Consistency
Ohhh okay. I thought I saw a post where u twist, blow, twist blow, in order to remove any debris. Hmmmm. Guess I was mistaken haha.
BuzzDanklin
Well-Known Member
@MoltenTiger This is the photo of my first hopper version (right) and my second version (left) I believe the one you linked a page back is the 2nd version or potentially the third. Unfortunately I had a crummy camera back then so I am not sure if it will help you at all.
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MoltenTiger
Well-Known Member
Cheers mate@MoltenTiger This is the photo of my first hopper version (right) and my second version (left) I believe the one you linked a page back is the 2nd version or potentially the third, as my inside screen was silver not near as blue. Unfortunately I had a crummy camera back then so I am not sure if it will help you at all.
I was going to ask you, when you were at HL and they were talking about a screen that you could scratch but not mark, were they referring to the honeycomb silver screen or the blue heater cap?
I guess the blue finish is some kind of hardened/anodised finish, or something.
Did you take the pic in my previous post? (I did search for "vaporizerwizard grasshopper" and scrolled) it's a quality shot
The other one in the series of the newer screen is also easy on the eyes
Just a casual bit of levitating wonder
BuzzDanklin
Well-Known Member
@MoltenTiger I actually did not take that previous photo you linked, that one you linked was taken by Justin at radvaperreviews, and I agree its a good shot, actually one of the ones that made me realize it was time to save up for a better camera haha.
As far as screens, the new one they were referring to was the honeycomb one inside the mouthpiece. Originally they had a much different and more finicky screen that needed cleaned much more often, and it was easier to mess up by poking at it during cleaning.
As far as screens, the new one they were referring to was the honeycomb one inside the mouthpiece. Originally they had a much different and more finicky screen that needed cleaned much more often, and it was easier to mess up by poking at it during cleaning.