Supreme V3 Electric Conversion Kit

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So stoked for this! @JCat how has your flower experience been with the SV3 e-mod? The SV4 instructions say to wait 10-40sec after inserting stem before pulling to heat soak. Have you been ripping right from the get go for the full convection effects? Must be such a different experience with a static temp! Can't wait!
Flower’s been great too! I’ve tried both letting heat soak and hitting right away. If you let it sit for 10-15 seconds first it hits more like heating with the torch with the stem pre-inserted ... if you hit right away it’s full convection.

I’ve been setting my PID to 470F for around 170-175C which makes amazingly flavourful and dense vapour :)
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So my aluminum came in today! Will be building prototype #4 tonight or tomorrow :)

Here's a picture of my current setup (this is w/ prototype #2). I've ran the auto-tune on my PID w/ it pre-heated to 185C, and then I also set a delta of -55C on the PID (after figuring out how to change it from Fahrenheit to Celcius). At room temperature my PID now shows it as about -30C, however, from 170C to 200C it's pretty accurate and inline w/ the SV3 thermometer.

7ickIsa.jpg
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
So prototype #4 complete, machining went well, and it works great! End weight of this one is a little over 50g ... <45% of the prototype #1 weight :)

Here's pictures of the plates on their own and mounted. Going to have my first bowl with these plates now :)

X8MT8OX.jpg


sRbnPBO.jpg
 

szai

Well-Known Member
So prototype #4 complete, machining went well, and it works great! End weight of this one is a little over 50g ... <45% of the prototype #1 weight :)

Here's pictures of the plates on their own and mounted. Going to have my first bowl with these plates now :)

X8MT8OX.jpg


sRbnPBO.jpg

I'm going to have to report you! For being too awesome! You've far exceeded the forums limits!

How'd you're sesh go? Did a bowl of gelato torched to 370f. I guess I pulled a little too hard didn't combust but got close! I'm high up and floating. Wiz khalifa's so high! Is playing and did the moment and the sv3 ninja hit ain't arrived yet! Got about 12 mins left! I'm excited. Hey @biohacker I bet you miss this janky bitch!
 
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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Hey @JCat thanks for another awesome sv3 e-mod video! Curious though, it drops to approx 175 after insertion, but also doesn't seem to climb back up to 185 at all?
When you insert the stem, the stem and flower are not to temp, so it causes a drop, the temperature drop isn't immediately reflected in the coil, as the coil is in contact with the heat exchange which takes a while to cool or transfer heat. If I wait long enough it will climb. You'll notice that no matter how hard I draw it doesn't drop as well, it actually climbs. If you checkout the video I post here, you'll see the same thing, but on the 2nd bowl (rosin), you'll notice it at first drop from 200 to 190, then climb backup >195 throughout the session.

Based on my last reply from the manufacturer, NO. I'm done.
You know you want to join me for the ride w/ the SV3 electric mod @biohacker :) ... the SV3 signature is still amazing! Likely shipping some out this week :)

Killer! Does it still have that Supreme signature that knocks you out?
Yes! Definitely! (Without the temperature drop throughout the session though :) )

Here's another video from before bed last night!


Edit: @biohacker ... in regards to the bowl temp vs. enail temp, the one other idea I have been toying with is modding a coil so it has an external thermocouple that splits from it at the SV3 and goes in where the SV3 temp probe is; if I did this, the coil/PID would respond to temp changes at the bowl as opposed to the coil and the PID would track the actual temperature unbelievably well I would expect; that being said, after tossing the idea around for about a day, I had decided against it yesterday since the performance as-is is so good, I didn't think the improvement would be very noticeable in actual usage (although the perfectionist in me now has me reconsidering it after your post! :lol: ...)
 
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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Here's a post w/ the progress of the plates from prototype #1 through to the final version:

Prototype #1 (121.3g)
9uL4ZpX.jpg
KM2Lege.jpg


Prototype #2 (68.7g)
z0SzG4r.jpg
0aWAxmF.jpg


Prototype #3 (59.8g)
lKJXloY.jpg
MofOF0a.jpg


Final Prototype (49.2g)
VZjuZ7R.jpg
OTbV0fr.jpg



First version was 2.25" x 1.25" x 0.4", mass of 121.3g

Final version is 2.125" x 1.125" x 0.25", mass of 49.2g

So final version is ~40% of the weight of the first prototype and balance and performance are good :)

 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
:lol: ... thanks @duff ... I think the heat exchanger side of things is outside of my area of expertise though :) ... I'm rarely the idea guy ... I'm usually the guy that makes an idea better and makes it actually work! :lol: (I also have really no experience w/ metal work ... the aluminum I'm machining with woodworking tools w/ carbide bits ... and cobalt bits for the drill press)

I'd love to partner w/ someone on this ... I'd really love to see a Supreme desktop that solve all the problems the SV3 has ... I see no reason once you get rid of the need for a torch to heat, to have a large exposed hot heat block ... I'm sure some way to enclose the unit, and get rid of the silicone pieces, would make this unit much more user friendly.

At any rate, in the meantime I do love my Sv3 electric mod :) ... this has been all I've been using since prototype #1 because it works so well ... (except for my Firefly 2 a couple times when out-and-about)

Hmmm ... I wonder if I could enclose the SV3 block and e-nail coil in my old VXL Cloud body ...
 

szai

Well-Known Member
:lol: ... thanks @duff ... I think the heat exchanger side of things is outside of my area of expertise though :) ... I'm rarely the idea guy ... I'm usually the guy that makes an idea better and makes it actually work! :lol: (I also have really no experience w/ metal work ... the aluminum I'm machining with woodworking tools w/ carbide bits ... and cobalt bits for the drill press)

I'd love to partner w/ someone on this ... I'd really love to see a Supreme desktop that solve all the problems the SV3 has ... I see no reason once you get rid of the need for a torch to heat, to have a large exposed hot heat block ... I'm sure some way to enclose the unit, and get rid of the silicone pieces, would make this unit much more user friendly.

At any rate, in the meantime I do love my Sv3 electric mod :) ... this has been all I've been using since prototype #1 because it works so well ... (except for my Firefly 2 a couple times when out-and-about)

Hmmm ... I wonder if I could enclose the SV3 block and e-nail coil in my old VXL Cloud body ...
Makes a wooden heater cover!
 
szai,

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Makes a wooden heater cover!
Yeah ... WAY too labour intensive though :) ... and not sure how to "float" the heat exchange inside the body regardless of the device used (maybe PTFE holding the stem ... like the PTFE on the MiniVAP ... not sure who can machine PTFE parts for me though!


On another note ... for those of you following this thread ... I ordered a k-type thermocouple that I think will work, as well as some XLR 5-pin connectors and bulk cable ... I'm going to build an adapter cable that splits the thermocouple out so I can try running the PID/coil off a thermocouple installed where the SV3 thermocouple is installed.

This should give extremely accurate temperature control (and it will be measuring the temperature and responding to temperature change at the location we are interested in)

If this works out I might start modding the High5 coils with a split thermocouple (split close to the coil) as well as making "mod" adapter cables with connected thermocouple (you could then tie-wrap the thermocouple wire to your e-nail wire for the same effect as the modded coil without actually having to touch the coil itself)
 

szai

Well-Known Member
Yeah ... WAY too labour intensive though :) ... and not sure how to "float" the heat exchange inside the body regardless of the device used (maybe PTFE holding the stem ... like the PTFE on the MiniVAP ... not sure who can machine PTFE parts for me though!


On another note ... for those of you following this thread ... I ordered a k-type thermocouple that I think will work, as well as some XLR 5-pin connectors and bulk cable ... I'm going to build an adapter cable that splits the thermocouple out so I can try running the PID/coil off a thermocouple installed where the SV3 thermocouple is installed.

This should give extremely accurate temperature control (and it will be measuring the temperature and responding to temperature change at the location we are interested in)

If this works out I might start modding the High5 coils with a split thermocouple (split close to the coil) as well as making "mod" adapter cables with connected thermocouple (you could then tie-wrap the thermocouple wire to your e-nail wire for the same effect as the modded coil without actually having to touch the coil itself)


How do they do it in log Vapes? Probably a different project but shoot! It's a project I'd support with a pre-order.

It would be like a reverse log vape. It's actually suits something I've been thinking about.

We'll call it the vape Ray! Because it already looks like a ray gun, easily if you just mount a straight pipe to the song.
 
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szai

Well-Known Member
In log vapes they've got a tiny little heater ... this one has a beast of an aluminum heater block plus plates w/ a coil on top of that :science::hmm:


I suppose I just thought of a reverse supreme v2 but I get your head scratching. I don't mean stick the sv3 in a log vape. I just maybe none some wood with some insulator between the two.

I've been enjoying my vapcap at full form again so pardon my idiocy.
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Here's a picture of 2 final production plates as well as 10 sets of blanks cut to size. You can see my jig on the mitre saw and setup sort of in the picture for getting accurately cut pieces in a repeatable way (just cut 20 plates for 10 sets and they are all 100% identical in size as far as I can tell by eye :) )

Xlk2K74.jpg
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Nice thread indeed!

Watching your vid @JCat . At 3:16 you can see how less contact the heating element of the S3 has to the mod because of the heaters folds. Perhaps it's better to put some thermoconducting stuff beween the heater and the heated wall of the mod.
Guess that would deliver a notable quicker upheating - especially with the insulator modification suggested by @Andreaerdna.
One layer of insulator at the inside of the "cold" mod part but also one at the outside of the "hot" mod part.
Would that all in all reduce time for upheating to the half??
 
Hogni,
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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Nice thread indeed!

Watching your vid @JCat . At 3:16 you can see how less contact the heating element of the S3 has to the mod because of the heaters folds. Perhaps it's better to put some thermoconducting stuff beween the heater and the heated wall of the mod.
Guess that would deliver a notable quicker upheating - especially with the insulator modification suggested by @Andreaerdna.
One layer of insulator at the inside of the "cold" mod part but also one at the outside of the "hot" mod part.
Would that all in all reduce time for upheating to the half??
Problem w/ putting some thermoconducting stuff between the coil and the SV3 is I don't think the SV3 shape would be 100% consistent across SV3's. It would have to be something that's "shaped" to the SV3, or is "glued" which would make it permanent which is not the goal. You are correct though that this could improve it. I'm not sure by how much though, as I look down there is actually very little of the SV3 coil not touching due to the fact that the coil is round and the location of the indents (placing the coil as low as it will go is ideal)

As far as the mica, that may improve the performance as far as heat-up time, but may negatively impact the heat retention ... once that aluminum block is heated up it may well help maintain the temp. If not, the non-heating sided block could be replaced 100% by a piece of 1/4" mica I imagine. (the size is important in order to achieve balance). Same thing with the coil side ... I think having the aluminum in contact on that side increases the transfer and the thermal mass and probably helps with heat retention. If someone wants to mail me some mica I'd be glad to experiment :) (Can you machine mica w/ carbide tools?)

That being said, I'm very happy with the current setup which has it @ 490F to achieve 365F consistent. I am also prototyping modding a coil so that I split the thermocouple and install the thermocouple where the SV3 temp probe is. My theory is that then with the thermocouple where it should be instead of at the tip of the coil, the temp should maintain unbelievably well.

Here's a picture from the top of the plates to show what I'm talking about as far as contact being pretty good:

dSDLfK0.jpg
 

stickstones

Vapor concierge
I am also prototyping modding a coil so that I split the thermocouple and install the thermocouple where the SV3 temp probe is. My theory is that then with the thermocouple where it should be instead of at the tip of the coil, the temp should maintain unbelievably well.

I like this! Sign me up!
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I like this! Sign me up!
:lol: ... ok ... we'll see how it goes! I don't think my parts will be in until end of next week, and on vacation out of town the week after, so might come to fruition the week after that :)
 
JCat,
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