Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Oh and my email came through, same Tuesday eta so all good as expected, but sorry again for the shipping talk!

Hopefully the mod shows up by then, will need to get the tubo software loaded, then figure out what value I need to change to what.

Gonna be a fun distraction!
 

CL52613

Well-Known Member
I hope I am not being redundant, but this whole box mod thing is totally confusing. Just bought a canary Splinter Z (2-hole) from RBT and now have to get a box mod. RBT site suggests that almost any 50W box mod will work, but when I start looking at the mods, holy cow. Different types of chips, wattage up to 250, different modes, and who knows what else. I am leaning toward a DNA mod, don't ask me why, I have no clue, closed my eyes and threw a dart at the board. So need some help, some suggestions, some kind of clue as to what this mod will do. The Lost Vape Paranormal is rated as a top choice for DNA mods; what do you all think? I do not care how the mod does what it does, I just want to be able to control the temperature so I can get the vape quality and volume I desire. I figure by adjusting the watts to the heater is the easiest way. Is there a mod that simply modifies the watttage output without all the extraneous information being added to the equation? I figure start at 50W and work downward if combustion is a problem. Anyway, the Z is ordered and need a box mod. Portability is not an issue, would like a dual 18650 mod that does not require an electrical engineering degree in order to use it. The most important aspect for the box mod is keep it simple for the stupid, after all that otter avatar is scratching his head for a reason. Thanks for your help
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I hope I am not being redundant, but this whole box mod thing is totally confusing. Just bought a canary Splinter Z (2-hole) from RBT and now have to get a box mod. RBT site suggests that almost any 50W box mod will work, but when I start looking at the mods, holy cow. Different types of chips, wattage up to 250, different modes, and who knows what else. I am leaning toward a DNA mod, don't ask me why, I have no clue, closed my eyes and threw a dart at the board. So need some help, some suggestions, some kind of clue as to what this mod will do. The Lost Vape Paranormal is rated as a top choice for DNA mods; what do you all think? I do not care how the mod does what it does, I just want to be able to control the temperature so I can get the vape quality and volume I desire. I figure by adjusting the watts to the heater is the easiest way. Is there a mod that simply modifies the watttage output without all the extraneous information being added to the equation? I figure start at 50W and work downward if combustion is a problem. Anyway, the Z is ordered and need a box mod. Portability is not an issue, would like a dual 18650 mod that does not require an electrical engineering degree in order to use it. The most important aspect for the box mod is keep it simple for the stupid, after all that otter avatar is scratching his head for a reason. Thanks for your help

I love your otter avatar and its expression is perfect for this quandry lol

Here is a thread for box mods http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...-on-demand-convection-510-vapes.25465/page-16

Seems a lot dig the wismec brand, senuous P80 for single batt I think and reuleaux for triple. Lostvape also has a single and triple dna mod available. I think you are right to go to dna for best easy temp control, though I do not know the set up needed...

Good luck dude
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
@CL52613, no one can tell you what to buy, you have to make that decision for yourself. Only you know your usage & style: 1 battery, 2 battery or 3 batteries & what firmware upgrade you'd like to use.

Along with this link that Shit Snacks provided above
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...-on-demand-convection-510-vapes.25465/page-16
see my post here for the other links you will need:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-111#post-1330279

And don't forget youtube vids to see the style of any vapes you like, like how big they are & how they sit in your hand as well as, of course, what the reviewers thoughts/opinions are.

The Wismec Reuleaux(sp.) Gen 3 Dual, is a good choice. This is the one of the mods RBT (Ryan) uses with my_sur evic I believe. He uses wattage, but likes a longer firing time. He also uses the Gen 3 which I believe will only run Arctic Fox ... but don't quote me. ;)

Here's 2 links to vape sale sites:

http://vape.deals/category/regulated-mods/box-mods/

https://cheapvaping.deals/category/vape-deals-by-category/box-mods-deals
 

buddingglasshead

Well-Known Member
@CL52613, no one can tell you what to buy, you have to make that decision for yourself. Only you know your usage & style: 1 battery, 2 battery or 3 batteries & what firmware upgrade you'd like to use.

Along with this link that Shit Snacks provided above
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/w...-on-demand-convection-510-vapes.25465/page-16
see my post here for the other links you will need:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-111#post-1330279

And don't forget youtube vids to see the style of any vapes you like, like how big they are & how they sit in your hand as well as, of course, what the reviewers thoughts/opinions are.

The Wismec Reuleaux(sp.) Gen 3 Dual, is a good choice. This is the one of the mods RBT (Ryan) uses with my_sur evic I believe. He uses wattage, but likes a longer firing time. He also uses the Gen 3 which I believe will only run Arctic Fox ... but don't quote me. ;)

Here's 2 links to vape sale sites:

http://vape.deals/category/regulated-mods/box-mods/

https://cheapvaping.deals/category/vape-deals-by-category/box-mods-deals


Bookmark those sites and watch them every day. You can get mods for awesome prices. It's a lot of effort for something, but well worth it if you want to save money. I've picked up some really good mods for a decent price watching them.
 

cjang

Well-Known Member
I hope I am not being redundant, but this whole box mod thing is totally confusing. Just bought a canary Splinter Z (2-hole) from RBT and now have to get a box mod. RBT site suggests that almost any 50W box mod will work, but when I start looking at the mods, holy cow. Different types of chips, wattage up to 250, different modes, and who knows what else. I am leaning toward a DNA mod, don't ask me why, I have no clue, closed my eyes and threw a dart at the board. So need some help, some suggestions, some kind of clue as to what this mod will do. The Lost Vape Paranormal is rated as a top choice for DNA mods; what do you all think? I do not care how the mod does what it does, I just want to be able to control the temperature so I can get the vape quality and volume I desire. I figure by adjusting the watts to the heater is the easiest way. Is there a mod that simply modifies the watttage output without all the extraneous information being added to the equation? I figure start at 50W and work downward if combustion is a problem. Anyway, the Z is ordered and need a box mod. Portability is not an issue, would like a dual 18650 mod that does not require an electrical engineering degree in order to use it. The most important aspect for the box mod is keep it simple for the stupid, after all that otter avatar is scratching his head for a reason. Thanks for your help

You're getting good answers here but from the sound of it, you're not interested in the nitty gritty details. I guess the more pertinent question is: do you want to use your vape in a regulated or unregulated fashion?

If regulated, go with a mod with a DNA chip, as they are thought to be one of the best for temperature control. I recommend the mods sold by Lost Vape, but others have mentioned a few here.

If unregulated, I think as long as the box mod is functional and works properly, it'll suffice. I may be wrong, but that is my general understanding.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Yeah I think people are confused about the mod talk complexity where they really shouldn't. These vapes work well in VW mode, and with the exception of mechanical mods, any mod you buy today on the market will perform well in VW mode. So the only thing you have to chose is the look and how many cells you want (which affects size and hence look in return)

Now most mods have a 10 seconds cutoff, and some users find that inconvenient to have to release the trigger and press it again to start a second 10 seconds session to take longer pulls. I can understand that, it's what I have for my Project Pure SF riding the SmoAnt Knight v2. You might think it's not a big deal, as it's relatively effortless to retrigger, but in practice it's a bit annoying because you have to keep track of where you are in the 10 seconds timer. If you retrigger too late you get a gap where power is off and if you retrigger too soon, well you don't get the full 20 seconds.

To solve that problem, you need to install a custom firmware and this is where you start stumbling upon compatibility issues, as said firmware only supports some models on the market and not all.

Now if you want temperature regulation this is where it starts getting complicated. Some mods are pretty bad at it out of the box and only work okay with custom firmware. Some work really well without modification but are usually a bit pricier (but there are pretty good alternatives to DNA chipsets, SmoAnt I mentioned above for instance have really good TC support from stock, like Vaporesso)

Finally if for some reason you insist on wanting to use FJ's cruise mode, then you're even more limited in your choice of compatible devices. I personally don't get the appeal, I find session vapes annoying because they force you to chain hit to conserve energy and they set the pace where you should vape at. Whereas on-demand vapes mean freedom to me, hitting only when I want at the pace I want... so it puzzles me why so many people want to transform their on-demand vapes to session vapes, but to each its own!
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
***As of right now, there's only (1) 2-hole Splinter Z in Wenge & Bubinga in stock.

I just got the 19/19mm wpa & it's really nice. Good quality. Seats perfectly in the Z. For those in the EU, you can order directly from Vapefiend. But, Easywider, I think, referenced the 19/22mm to 18 & 14mm over on 420edc. Next sale, I'll pick up one of each.

Oh, and it's correctly sur_myevic not my_sur evic as I posted above. Sorry. :p

@cjang, why would anyone buy an unregulated mod for this application, unless they own one already? And isn't there a risk in using an unregulated mod -- something about the 510 pin?

Darn, you, KZ, for making me reply. You know that all this stuff is above my pay-grade & above my intellectual capacity. So, if I make an idiot out of myself in anything I say, I blame you. :cool:

Yeah I think people are confused about the mod talk complexity where they really shouldn't. These vapes work well in VW mode, and with the exception of mechanical mods, any mod you buy today on the market will perform well in VW mode. So the only thing you have to chose is the look and how many cells you want (which affects size and hence look in return).

More than the look, the ergonomics of the device: size, weight w/ batteries, screen size & readability, width of mod for Splinter seating, position of 510 pin, type & positioning of fire button/lever -- all in addition to firmware upgradeability.

I went with the Wismec Sinuous Ravage 230. I wanted a device as small & lightweight as possible, 2 batteries, the 510 pin being centered on top, wide enough for very little Splinter overhang, a fire lever (not button), a larger, highly readable screen. I really wanted the Smok Species/Creature 2, but it only has a 10-sec fire w/o being able to upgrade firmware. Sans the Smok's touch screen :drool:, the Ravage had it all. It's upgradeable to at least the Red Panda firmware, maybe even the sur_myevic. Unexpectedly, & much to my delight, it has a 15-sec cutoff which is perfect for me. It's lightweight, fits in the hand nicely, has a large color screen, the Splinter is centered & only overhangs by a couple of millimeters. (Touch screen displays are starting to enter the marketplace. :rockon:)

Edited to add: The Ravage cost me $44 w/ free US Warehouse shipping. Took no more than a week to get to me if I recall correctly. Too lazy to look right now.
canabis.gif
Best would have been $36 or 37. I paid $44 or 45. The add'l. 8 bucks was worth it to me as I so wanted the blue & that's one of the 1st colors to go. (What you learn with those 2 mod deal sites referenced in my above post is, if you go look at those sites right before getting into bed & 1st thing upon waking before you even pee :D, you'll find that a deal you would have gone for is gone -- it already had 8000+ views. It really is luck when it comes to deals, it's solely right time, right place. :nod: So,
popular vape, popular color, I grabbed it. Now all I need is a ModShield to protect it. So happy the ordeal of finally picking ... & actually pulling the trigger (buy button for you youngsters) is over.
cloud9.gif
Not to mention, batteries & charger. :doh: Where's a pulling-your-hair-out smilie when you need one. :lol:

And I went with an Enook 4-bay charger & Sony VTC5a ($6 each @ liionwholesale; $2 - 3 cheaper than every other FC-approved battery seller. I could have gone with the VTC6. The Ravage's discharge current is rated +25. The 5a is rated +30 while the 6's are rated to +20, but from what Mooch says, the 6 can boost (forgot correct terminology) to +25.

This is not the corresponding post, but one discussing the aforemented batteries as well as HG & Samsung.

https://www.facebook.com/batterymoo...-18650sthe-sony-vtc5a-is-mo/2063768540579388/

The Enook is a promotional charger at liionwholesale. Has good reviews, inexpensive & each charging bay can independently charge at different currents from .5 to 2A.

... but there are pretty good alternatives to DNA chipsets, SmoAnt I mentioned above for instance have really good TC support from stock, like Vaporesso)

Thing is, you don't want Smoant or Vaporesso or other well-rated mods as they aren't firmware supported by the big 4 (Red Panda included) &, hence, almost all only have 10 sec. firing. And you're so right that hitting that button 2 times in a PITA. So it's worth getting an upgradeable mod just for this 1 feature.

"Finally if for some reason you insist on wanting to use FJ's cruise mode, then you're even more limited in your choice of compatible devices. I personally don't get the appeal, I find session vapes annoying because they force you to chain hit to conserve energy and they set the pace where you should vape at. Whereas on-demand vapes mean freedom to me, hitting only when I want at the pace I want... so it puzzles me why so many people want to transform their on-demand vapes to session vapes, but to each its own!

Well, the way Ryan uses it is that he engages it & after his draw (which can be as long as 20 - 25 secs + his initial cold bowl heat up) he disengages it, so it's hands-free operation when drawing & he uses both hands as he rotates the Splinter during the draw so the herb cooks evenly. (Thinking about it, I believe now he's using sur_myevic with the Gen 3 Dual). @AJS has also has dabbled with cruise. Maybe he can weigh in as to it's advantage. I would think that if using the Splinter as a session vape it would be pretty advantageous. If I recall correctly I've heard that cruise can be engaged for up to 5 minutes & I think that AJ has employed it up to 3 min.

Boy, I sure did a lot of think- ing in this post. :rolleyes: KZ (or anyone), please feel free to correct my incorrect assumptions & presumptions. Just be gentle. :brow: You have to understand that I really don't understand amps, volts, etc. & I really don't want/need to. But I want to buy the appropriate mod so all the stuff I said above is only based on a cursory understanding at best -- most of it is, sadly, is just parroting. Just need my parroting to be spot-on. :p

 
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cjang

Well-Known Member
@cjang, why would anyone buy an unregulated mod for this application, unless they own one already? And isn't there a risk in using an unregulated mod -- something about the 510 pin?

I think there are several reasons:

1. Ryan doesn't officially support temperature control/regulation with the Splinter, despite the ability of many mods to do this.
2. Some people prefer using a device in an unregulated fashion, using their senses to effectively control the device, instead of letting the mod do it for them.
3. Setting up temperature control and optimizing its function on a mod can be time consuming and confusing. This is exacerbated due to the fact that we do not know what material is used for the heating element (which should be used directly for determination of TCR values), and that stem type can change the effective temperature at flower, which requires different mod parameters. This requires some degree of technical know-how, time, and effort. Some people don't want to deal with that.
4. Related to the above points: some people claim that unregulated is just plain better vapor (I disagree).

As far as I know, there is no risk. There are plenty of people who use 510 mods in an unregulated fashion (ie, mechanical mods and mods without TC capability).
 

cjang

Well-Known Member
Now if you want temperature regulation this is where it starts getting complicated. Some mods are pretty bad at it out of the box and only work okay with custom firmware. Some work really well without modification but are usually a bit pricier (but there are pretty good alternatives to DNA chipsets, SmoAnt I mentioned above for instance have really good TC support from stock, like Vaporesso)

To add onto this for others who are mod shopping, I believe Yihi is one of the better chips for TC capability as well.

Depth of the glass mating (ie, 19/22 vs 19/19) changes the effective distance to the heater. If a mod's TC settings are optimized for 19/22 glassware, using 19/19 increases the distance to the heater, leading to a lower temp at flower. This requires you to change all the parameters empirically to get the same experience, since we don't have formal information regarding the heater material.
 
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Summer

Long Island, NY
Ryan said that he was changing to 19/19 so he can use the extra mms for a larger, in this case, taller heater. This means that while the glass goes from 22 to 19, the heater may be made 3mm bigger, so really the distance the heater is from the herb remains the same. It's a wash.
 

cjang

Well-Known Member
Ryan said that he was changing to 19/19 so he can use the extra mms for a larger, in this case, taller heater. This means that while the glass goes from 22 to 19, the heater may be made 3mm bigger, so really the distance the heater is from the herb remains the same. It's a wash.

It is my understanding that Z can mate with both 19/19 and 19/22 without any problems.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
Oh, @cjang, my bad. Ryan changed the Splinter from 22 to 19 to get more heater mesh into it. So what I said about it being a wash stands Splinter & & not the Z. So yes, you are right, the herb will be 3mm farther away from the heater in the Z.
 
Summer,

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
The 22mm joint has no problem with shorter stems, just longer ones. But the greater distance to the load, if there is one, is manageable by increasing heat, I would think. The greater distance might also reduce charring if that is an issue.

My Z was supposed to come today but it is not out for delivery so it must be "lost in postal hell". And USPS is down tomorrow to honor GHWB so I probably won't get it till Thursday, the day I can't be home.

Sigh...

Edit: Fixed order of Bush initials...
 
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Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Finally if for some reason you insist on wanting to use FJ's cruise mode, then you're even more limited in your choice of compatible devices. I personally don't get the appeal, I find session vapes annoying because they force you to chain hit to conserve energy and they set the pace where you should vape at. Whereas on-demand vapes mean freedom to me, hitting only when I want at the pace I want... so it puzzles me why so many people want to transform their on-demand vapes to session vapes, but to each its own!
Well i dont know about your experience with this software but i can for sure tell that it doesnt force you to hit it ,because it doesnt heat your herb until you dont start to draw.. ALso wattage consumption once the heater is up to temp is like 4-5w ,so even if i hit it just 3 or 4 times during a 2 even 2-3 minutes cruise the toll on the battery life is almost the same compared to on demand for same amount of heat.. I will have to check how is that for the PAM heater but for TUBOx it is definetly like that. Of course total wattage consumption will equal how many times and how long and hard you have drawn during the session.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Thing is, you don't want Smoant or Vaporesso or other well-rated mods as they aren't firmware supported by the big 4 (Red Panda included) &, hence, almost all only have 10 sec. firing. And you're so right that hitting that button 2 times in a PITA. So it's worth getting an upgradeable mod just for this 1 feature.

I don't know. The 10 seconds cutoff is a (small) problem for me only with the Project Pure SF as it's a 14mm stem system and it requires rather long and slow draws to get the vapor density I like. But I never draw more than 10 seconds with my iHeat for instance (the heat kills my throat anyway!) so I assume I wouldn't want more than 10 seconds with a Splinter (like I don't for my other RBT vapes)

Also you can trigger once for preheating, release when you put the vape in your mouth and retrigger for the draw. This way it could make the 10 seconds enough...

I don't remember what the max cutoff time is on my DNA75... :hmm:

Boy, I sure did a lot of think- ing in this post. :rolleyes: KZ (or anyone), please feel free to correct my incorrect assumptions & presumptions. Just be gentle. :brow:

You're doing well. But I can still slap you with a rose if you want! Teehee! :rofl:

@KeroZen don't you get like 30 pulls from a Zion and Nomad stem? That's just a slow developing session. :p

It is, but it's at my own pace, most often in front of a computer, so it's stretched over a long period. With straits of chain-hitting spaced by periods of resting on the desk. I like the freedom and not having to care about timers. I also don't wear any watch if that matters! :p

4. Related to the above points: some people claim that unregulated is just plain better vapor (I disagree).

There are valid reasons to say that though. Zion is unregulated yet is much more enjoyable than any of my regulated vapes. The slow organic temperature climbing... and less of a "sucking a hair drier" effect. Because that's the problem with TC: every-time you fail to bump the temperature in time, you get diminishing results and hence less concentrated hits that are more and more only hot air.

To add onto this for others who are mod shopping, I believe Yihi is one of the better chips for TC capability as well.

I believed that too, but now we have official confirmation: YiHi chipsets are not compatible for our usage, be it dry herbs or concentrates. There is a protection inside that detects when the coil(s) is/are not submerged and it cuts off. They work pretty well for e-cigs but unfortunately not for us.

Well i dont know about your experience with this software but i can for sure tell that it doesnt force you to hit it ,because it doesnt heat your herb until you dont start to draw.. ALso wattage consumption once the heater is up to temp is like 4-5w ,so even if i hit it just 3 or 4 times during a 2 even 2-3 minutes cruise the toll on the battery life is almost the same compared to on demand for same amount of heat.. I will have to check how is that for the PAM heater but for TUBOx it is definetly like that. Of course total wattage consumption will equal how many times and how long and hard you have drawn during the session.

I know that against all odds, under some settings cruise mode can be more energy efficient than on-demand. But that was not my point.

Also 4W continuously going to the heater tends to make the atty and mod overheat. My iHeat already gets too hot to hold comfortably just with regular use. With my SS and glass attachments it's even worse. Some users using cruise mode wonder why they get the "device too hot" message, but the correlation is quite obvious.

But really my reason is more about the loss of perceived freedom. I don't like having things imposed on me. I didn't like having timers in my conduction vapes, always having to check whether it was on or off, restarting it every 5 minutes etc. It's much more natural and intuitive to me to have just a trigger that I push when I draw. But it's not a competition to know which method is best heh, if you guys like cruise mode by all means do what makes you happy! :tup:
 

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
Forgive if this has been asked, but what is the difference between the splinter US, splinter Z, and the splinter V1?
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
You're doing well. But I can still slap you with a rose if you want! Teehee! :rofl:

whipping.gif
(Teehee! :rofl:)




Forgive if this has been asked, but what is the difference between the splinter US, splinter Z, and the splinter V1?

The Splinter came out earlier this year. I got my waitlist shipment in April -- it's version 1. And then the Z came out which I got at the very end of Sept. The Z has more heater power than the Splinter because it's larger. It's based on the Zion heater, but I think the Splinter has the same heater, but smaller. (Straighten me out anyone if I'm wrong). Well, initially, with the exception of the wood housing which was milled by Ryan, himself, the Splinter glass & other parts came from China, so-called, China parts & Ryan would assembly the vape individually. One of his last upgrades was switching to using German glass, but is now unable to get anymore so he's going back to China glass & will be having the wood housings also made in China. He will still do all the assembly initially to proof the integrity of the mfr'd parts, but is planning on having it eventually completely assembled in China sometime next year. There have been a few versions of the Splinter, each boasting nice upgrades. As far as I can tell, the design is actually perfect right now. If you want to know all the specifics about each upgraded version start reading this thread beginning with May posts to find them.
 
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Spelaeus

Well-Known Member
Just purchased a 2-hole bubinga Z. Would the Wismec Reuleaux RX300 be a decent choice to pair it with for somebody who has 0 mod experience looking for temp control, maybe with the FJ firmware? I get that it'll be a bit chunky but I don't mind that and quad batteries seem nice for battery life.
 
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