Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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SloJimFizz

Unknown Member
That's weird on the flavor front @Summer
Could it be the Z's freshly drilled wood be imparting flavor early on? May get better after some more break in bowls? :hmm:
I'm with @Other Side in the Z needing a few more watts for similar results as the Splinter in power mode.
Power mode works well for both ime and reminds me of the original Milaana experience. Tcr reminds me of the Original Zion experience where I can ride the button or cruise with no fear of going over to the dark side. The Splinter Z's big heater really nails it. Humongously big cloud generator. If your into that kinda thing.
Speaking of tcr, my Steam Engine with the DNA 75 was just too spotty with the Z and going to the dreaded Off screen.
Put the Z on my Splinters Evic mini with FJ's firmware, set it to the Z's resistance, and it worked awesomely. Dare I say more accurately than the Splinter does, with a wider throw of usable temp. At least a higher usable temp, will check the low end later.
So I pulled the trigger on a Wismec Reuleaux RX2/3, planning to use it with just two batteries. I wasn't aware the unit was smaller when using two batteries, I thought it stayed the same 3 battery size, you just put one less battery in it. If that makes sense. Went with Gold to kinda match the Bird's Eye Maple with it's light wood. Can't wait.
Will update with pics and hopefully less text. :peace::leaf:
 

ew91

Well-Known Member
After using the Splinter Z (2 hole) as my DD for the past few weeks, I love it! Huge, dense, tasty clouds. The Splinter is amazing, but the Z is on another level. Like cigar vs. cigarette smoke.

I have the Z on a DNA250C I put together from a kit. But I also used it on a Paranormal DNA250C. I am using SS430, 34.5W, 400F and it works beautifully. With the Splinter on the Paranormal DNA250C, i'm using SS430, 30-31W, 390F. Never chars or hotspots. I didn't change anything in eScribe. Just using the stock DNA250C settings.

I typically hold the button down for a couple of seconds after feeling the heat when inhaling (total ~5-8secs), then let off and keep inhaling until the vapor cools/stops. The heater keeps producing heat well after you let off the button, IME. I have also held the button down until I couldn't handle more vapor and the ABV was darker but not charred at all.

I'm a sicko and use the shorty stems I got from @cannabis.pro with the Z :mental:

Thanks @RastaBuddhaTao for another awesome vape!

:science:
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
I have the Z on a DNA250C I put together from a kit. But I also used it on a Paranormal DNA250C. I am using SS430, 34.5W, 400F and it works beautifully. With the Splinter on the Paranormal DNA250C, i'm using SS430, 30-31W, 390F. Never chars or hotspots. I didn't change anything in eScribe. Just using the stock DNA250C settings.

interesting I mentioned awhile back that wasn't 100% sure what type of stainless steel is in the splinterZ. I thought first was either 316 or 316L. In the DNA250c line I found the DJLSB 316L profile worked best.

Looking at how they graph out the SS430 it's much higher of a resistance value than either the stock 316 or 316L It's higher than the 316L I use.

Tried out 430 ss and found it took more wattage than 34 and ran, I felt more than 50 degrees on the warm side of the set 390 temperature. Took me around 45-50 watts to maintain a constant 390 reading. At 390 was borderline on combustion.

Then I tried the above setting with the lower 34 watts. Although it was able to produce a better experience if I slowed my breath rate. I wasn't able to maintain the set 390 degrees. Pulling the whole 34 watts the temperature and it's readout in escribe was way too low. I could easily draw temperature down by over 100 degrees.

I feel if using TC mode the last thing you want to do it restrict the wattage. I tried that too at first. With TC mode correctly up you will only use what wattage it needs to maintain the correct set temperature.

With 430SS basically your inputing a different resistance value that will make it read the coil material as colder. Then your lower the wattage making it hard for it to then reach that set temperature thru a draw. This caused some huge spikes of temperatures depending on my draw rate.

Ideal would be to have set it up to quickly reach set temperature without overshooting that temperature. Then to maintain within a few degrees that temperature regardless of the draw rate.

If wanting to use 390 as the target temperature in the Paranormal I would suggest using DJLSB material file in link below or use the profile SplinterZ download over in the FCSHARE downloads.

If using DJLSB Set preheat to 360 degrees at 65watts then 55 watts for power setting. If using SplinterZ profile just load it into open profile slot.

Let me know your thoughts if you decide to try these settings :)

http://www.djlsbvapes.com/evolvdna/


https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Thank you to @HerbieVonVapster for his Splinter Z 250c profile !!

Had to crank up the "temp" value to 500. Easy enough to dial that number to your liking.

My prior stock replay method was cutting off at ten seconds, but now I can do twenty with Herbie's tweaking. (Herbie Loves fixing Bugs) The red temp line in graph looks smooth even though I was ramping up my draw.

Still a noob at this, and Herbie has helped greatly!

Z_screen_shots.jpg
 

almost there

Well-Known Member
Thank you to @HerbieVonVapster for his Splinter Z 250c profile !!

Had to crank up the "temp" value to 500. Easy enough to dial that number to your liking.

My prior stock replay method was cutting off at ten seconds, but now I can do twenty with Herbie's tweaking. (Herbie Loves fixing Bugs) The red temp line in graph looks smooth even though I was ramping up my draw.

Still a noob at this, and Herbie has helped greatly!

Z_screen_shots.jpg
Goodness, 50w at 500F, how many sessions can I get from a full set of batteries? Freaking hell, I spent all my academic years avoiding statistics and graphs and here I am knee deep in my personal time:doh:. Whats that puff-o-meter or is that an app on your phone? Just downloaded @HerbieVonVapster ’s latest 250C files, time to get nerdy:science:
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
@almost there - funny, I spent most of my time before grad school taking math courses, but I hate dealing with this stuff too. Thank goodness @HerbieVonVapster has the patience and aptitude to figure it out for us.

Mine has 3 batteries, and life is good. Battery life.

Each session takes about 5% off the meter. Usually six draws per session, firing for nearly 20 seconds each.

Last two sessions I didn't bother stirring. Told myself, screw conventional wisdom. Hate stirring. Worked fine, with just a bit more pronounced near-char spot.

The "puff-o-meter" is on the mod screen, under settings

Edit: Noticed this was my 666th post. And I was "screwing conventional wisdom" while having great success with an on-demand vape. Me. No rapture for me, apparently, but I'll be too vaped to care
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Glad it’s working for you @ChooChooCharlie. The graph readout looks good looks like using around 32 Watts. Nice and level reading.

A little concerned with 500 tempature. Next time it’s at room tempature please resample coil. Sounds like it mighta downloaded my splinterZ resistance setting. Not a 100% sure if I removed my values in the triade file.

Depending on how much different yours are it could affect the tempature values.

Resampleing will load correct resistance value.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
What is resampling coils?

The coil ohms from my splinterZ is .405 at 70 degrees. Whenever you change 510 device need to remeasure the cold ohms. If I didn't remove my resistance value in the upload then @ChooChooCharlie might be using my resistance value. So by remeasuring/resampling would load the correct resistance for his splinterZ instead mine.
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Thanks, but I had changed it. Looking at your Splinter_Z in escribe, saw yours at 4 something, then saw the button for re-measuring, figured what the Hell, looks like a good button to press. Got that .39 in pic above. These are hand made heaters, maybe that makes a difference?

I just wasn't feeling satisfied until up to 500F. My feeling is the temp number is just a calibration tool with little relation to the load temp during draw. Could be a scale of 1-10 instead, or lights. AFAIK, no temp sensor in mods, it's math.

But, speaking of sensors, wouldn't it be cool if our fearless mod @Stu would take it for a spin with his thermocouple setup. What do ya say, @Stu ? I'll mail it setup as is. A second pair of electronic eyes, for vape research purposes. Must advance the knowledge!
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
But, speaking of sensors, wouldn't it be cool if our fearless mod @Stu would take it for a spin with his thermocouple setup. What do ya say, @Stu ? I'll mail it setup as is. A second pair of electronic eyes, for vape research purposes. Must advance the knowledge!
I'd be glad to provide some tests, but sadly I don't have a mod to test it on. I know I should probably pick one up eventually with all these 510 units coming out, but I've been trying to delay going down that rabbit hole as long as possible. I'll let you know when I have something to test it with.

:peace:
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
@Stu , I meant you'd be getting the Z with the mod, all setup, ready to load and fire. Hoping you could test with your thermocouple. To see what my 500F setting translates to in reality, and to see how the temp curve behaves during draw. Test only after your human assay first, and only if you have the time
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
@Stu , I meant you'd be getting the Z with the mod, all setup, ready to load and fire. Hoping you could test with your thermocouple. To see what my 500F setting translates to in reality, and to see how the temp curve behaves during draw. Test only after your human assay first, and only if you have the time
Ah, in that case go ahead and send it. Just don't ask me to fuck with any of those settings. That shit is still Greek to me. :ugh:

:peace:
 

Wildeyedzan

Well-Known Member
@almost there - funny, I spent most of my time before grad school taking math courses, but I hate dealing with this stuff too. Thank goodness @HerbieVonVapster has the patience and aptitude to figure it out for us.

Mine has 3 batteries, and life is good. Battery life.

Each session takes about 5% off the meter. Usually six draws per session, firing for nearly 20 seconds each.

Last two sessions I didn't bother stirring. Told myself, screw conventional wisdom. Hate stirring. Worked fine, with just a bit more pronounced near-char spot.

The "puff-o-meter" is on the mod screen, under settings

Edit: Noticed this was my 666th post. And I was "screwing conventional wisdom" while having great success with an on-demand vape. Me. No rapture for me, apparently, but I'll be too vaped to care
666 is a very special sacred number ,congrats :)
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
How does the Z compare to my regular Splinter?

I don't have a XL8R stem for it yet and my eLeaf Invoke running Arctic Fox has been saying "device too hot" which makes me not feel great about keeping on the fire button. So far I'm having the best results with a Tubo bent stem that fits slightly loose.

I haven't gotten my Splinter totally dialed in yet so it's just as well the RBT store is closed. Plus tomorrow might see my Fierce delivered.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Hope you have access to a 19/22 stem to feed thermocouple wire down. RBT sent me 19/19 stems (why oh why?)

Stems from RBT seem to have no rhyme and reason on what you will get. I've received long ones, short one, colored ones and recently the XL8R one that is 19/19 sized. I find that it runs a littler cooler maybe due to the 3 mm difference? I might be also the dimple design cooling better.
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
@Stu , boxed and dropped, you should get delivery tomorrow via Fedex. No candy, though

Included 4 mouthpieces: EDC420 cooler in my pic, StemPod straight short stem, and two short 19/19 from RBT designed for the regular splinter. Can't snake wire down EDC420 obviusly. StemPod stem might work, but narrow opening. The RBT ones would put more distance from heater, skewing test. Feel free to destroy some screens with wire holes, I've got more. Prefer DDave's rimless ones, they stay in stem when emptying.

Edit - probably better to use male to male 19/22 WPA, snake wire, then snug in silicone tubing for suction
 
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HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
The material file I used for the splinterZ is made by DJLSB. In the below video he discusses his choice and runs some test to confirm results. I'm hoping the test @Stu will confirms his findings since using the same custom material.

In video below starting at the 26:00 point he discusses this material file and at 1:13 are his results for this material on a DNA75c. Hopefully this info gives use a starting point on finding the best material file for TC. Not sure if firmware upgrades changed anything since he ran these test. Thanks to @almost there for this link. I learned some interesting things from watching it.

Currently trying out this theme on one of the paranormal it's a update to DJLSB theme. Using stealth version 3.2.0
I'm between that one franks themes or the stock theme.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/555-djlsb-theme-with-replay/

Franks theme was just updated yesterday if anyone's using it would suggest updating to new version.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/f...ge-and-others-replay-ready-english-italian-✪/

 
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