Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer
- Thread starter Purple-Days
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Got my PD in November. I've loved it so far. I wish this thread was easier to search since I'm sure this has been discussed before. But are there any recommendations on buying battery packs that might work with the PD. I'd love to be able to have it usable for an afternoon in the park once the weather gets warm again.
Happycamper
Sweet Dreams Babycakes
I'm not brilliant at stuff like this, but that looks like I could cope with it 
malawigold
Landrace Advocate
Definitely looking forward to knowing the vape from the inside out (easy repairs 
) and getting to finally have replacement for my jacked p.d. Keep us posted tom I'm sooo stoked!
) and getting to finally have replacement for my jacked p.d. Keep us posted tom I'm sooo stoked!
Ash
vaporist
Tom, we really like using essential oils with the PD but the standard cup just isn't as visually appealing as I'd like it to be. Have you ever thought about selling premium diffuser cups? Although you might hesitate to copy one of the signature MZ features, "copying" is perhaps the wrong way to look at it. Maybe its more like leading and following. You can't lead all the time, and I can't be the only PD owner who feels this gap in the product line.
Maybe you know an artist who'd be willing to make a few pieces for a product trial. I'd bet you could charge decent $$ or one-of-a-kind diffuser cups. I'll buy one.
Thanks for listening to businsess advice from a guy who's too
to get up off the couch.
P.S. The Pandora kit looks awesome. Great idea. That's going to be a rockin thread here on FC when you launch. I'm very curious to see if folks eventually start thyinking up mods for the kits.
Maybe you know an artist who'd be willing to make a few pieces for a product trial. I'd bet you could charge decent $$ or one-of-a-kind diffuser cups. I'll buy one.
Thanks for listening to businsess advice from a guy who's too
to get up off the couch.P.S. The Pandora kit looks awesome. Great idea. That's going to be a rockin thread here on FC when you launch. I'm very curious to see if folks eventually start thyinking up mods for the kits.
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
Ash, a couple of notes on why our aroma cup is the way it is. The solid copper cup is a simple shape for a couple of reasons. One is thermal, you don't want a radiator sucking heat out of your unit. Ease of handling, cleaning, purity of material, and easy replacement (or extras) at any hardware. Simple can be better. Thanks for the suggestion but . . . 
Did a final take of the Heat Exchanger assembly and tensioning yesterday. Pretty cool. Worked on the site some today. Springtime header, a little more upbeat than the sunset, same area overlooking Battle Rock here in Port Orford, OR. Took it a few years ago. I was looking for some new backgrounds and found a nice forest, appropriate. And a distinct one for the Purple-Days Pandora Kit page. Check them out. Of course we give credit to the generous folks at www.grsites.com. nice free backgrounds, buttons, fonts and other neat-o web design stuff.
Did a final take of the Heat Exchanger assembly and tensioning yesterday. Pretty cool. Worked on the site some today. Springtime header, a little more upbeat than the sunset, same area overlooking Battle Rock here in Port Orford, OR. Took it a few years ago. I was looking for some new backgrounds and found a nice forest, appropriate. And a distinct one for the Purple-Days Pandora Kit page. Check them out. Of course we give credit to the generous folks at www.grsites.com. nice free backgrounds, buttons, fonts and other neat-o web design stuff.
minnesnowta
Vaporist/Glass Head
Lookin real good Tom. Your really thinking everything through and will be another solid product which is no surprise. Keep it up man! Will be picking one of these up for sure when you get the wrapped up. Can't wait to build my own 
Progress
'Socratic Existentialist, MD'
Buzz Butter Tip:
I like to lightly butter up the inside of a designated can coozie with about 1/3 of a 1oz tin and let the PD sit in it plugged in when not in use.
You can take it out a bit before using it and leave it plugged in to cool back down a bit and dry, use it with the coozie on, or buff it dry.
I don't think the slightly higher heat will likely damage the unit in any way, but it does help the buzz butter soak in evenly from top to bottom (while leaving the heating element area safe and clean).
edit: KABLAMO, SEARCH THE WORD "BATTERY" AND READ THREAD TITLES OF POSTS THAT RESULT (EASY ). It has been discussed at length no readily available solution, but I am sure others would like one (maybe get that discussion going again, there?). There, however, are ways in that (those) thread(s) to power the PD in the wilderness.
I like to lightly butter up the inside of a designated can coozie with about 1/3 of a 1oz tin and let the PD sit in it plugged in when not in use.
You can take it out a bit before using it and leave it plugged in to cool back down a bit and dry, use it with the coozie on, or buff it dry.
I don't think the slightly higher heat will likely damage the unit in any way, but it does help the buzz butter soak in evenly from top to bottom (while leaving the heating element area safe and clean).
edit: KABLAMO, SEARCH THE WORD "BATTERY" AND READ THREAD TITLES OF POSTS THAT RESULT (EASY
). It has been discussed at length no readily available solution, but I am sure others would like one (maybe get that discussion going again, there?). There, however, are ways in that (those) thread(s) to power the PD in the wilderness.
DevoTheStrange
Ia! Ia! Vapor Fthagn!
for those who like using coozies. here is something I did that I actually prefer over a coozie.
All the coozies I had used all had one problem too me... they would warm up too much of the PD's exterior. The area around the jack would get just as hot as the rest of the unit. And the jack itself would be pretty hot, I don't like that much heat sitting next too something you don't want too melt or fail.
what I did was take a pair of tube socks that had holes in them, therefore I would never wear again, and I cut off the stretchy end. I then rolled the end back over itself so that it would create a double thick layer. I then put it on my PD on the top half... well away from the jack by a good centimeter or so. End results... works just like the coozie, only the top half of the PD gets warm, bottom half doesn't get hot.
solved my problem with the area around the jack getting too hot.
The sock doesnt get hot enough too screw with the elastic in it, the elastic doesn't touch the wood, and the results on use are the same as what I would get with the coozie.
And I have cotton resting against the outside of my PD, which is way better than all that synthetic stuff they make coozies out of.
All the coozies I had used all had one problem too me... they would warm up too much of the PD's exterior. The area around the jack would get just as hot as the rest of the unit. And the jack itself would be pretty hot, I don't like that much heat sitting next too something you don't want too melt or fail.
what I did was take a pair of tube socks that had holes in them, therefore I would never wear again, and I cut off the stretchy end. I then rolled the end back over itself so that it would create a double thick layer. I then put it on my PD on the top half... well away from the jack by a good centimeter or so. End results... works just like the coozie, only the top half of the PD gets warm, bottom half doesn't get hot.
solved my problem with the area around the jack getting too hot.
The sock doesnt get hot enough too screw with the elastic in it, the elastic doesn't touch the wood, and the results on use are the same as what I would get with the coozie.
And I have cotton resting against the outside of my PD, which is way better than all that synthetic stuff they make coozies out of.
t00fatt
Well-Known Member
Yep Devo the sock works great, always use a sock or even two when heating up from a cold start. Before vaping a kief or hash oil bowl I like to get the PD temps up a bit with a sock. Works great, and like you said only gets the top half hot.
Tom any idea when the pandora kits will be available? Are you planning on having a distributor for the kits as well, or are you going to sell them directly? Tom please don't take this the wrong way, considering the kit has no warranty on parts, which I think is the only way to sell a kit, I think you should maybe reconsider the price. Your three year warranty adds a lot of value to your traditional PD, in addition to the labor you put in assembling them. I think is worth a bit more than $30. Just my
.
As always Tom thanks for the constant innovation and thinking outside of the box. Your innovation is truly what makes you stand out against the other guys, and keeps us coming back!
Tom any idea when the pandora kits will be available? Are you planning on having a distributor for the kits as well, or are you going to sell them directly? Tom please don't take this the wrong way, considering the kit has no warranty on parts, which I think is the only way to sell a kit, I think you should maybe reconsider the price. Your three year warranty adds a lot of value to your traditional PD, in addition to the labor you put in assembling them. I think is worth a bit more than $30. Just my
. As always Tom thanks for the constant innovation and thinking outside of the box. Your innovation is truly what makes you stand out against the other guys, and keeps us coming back!
DevoTheStrange
Ia! Ia! Vapor Fthagn!
I think the $30 is just a restocking fee...
or you referring too the $30 price difference? Tom says it takes four hours too make a PD, and with this Kit, Tom is doing most of the work prior too assembly... thats what $7.5 per hour. 30 bux seems reasonable for not having too do all the stuff Tom is doing for each kit.
Now I would see it costing a bit less if the wood were not turned and drilled out. and the same with Holes drilled into the washer and other parts that have too be manipulated. I see the $30 price difference as justified... there is still a good deal of work being put into the kits before they are sold. All the customer is doing is putting the parts together and a bit of finishing work. However there is a point about the no warranty bit. Maybe a slight price adjustment for that.
hey tom is the solder the piece in the photo that looks like a spring?
the only thing I would be worried about putting this thing together would be putting the screens in the tubes... I tend too fumble small parts...
or you referring too the $30 price difference? Tom says it takes four hours too make a PD, and with this Kit, Tom is doing most of the work prior too assembly... thats what $7.5 per hour. 30 bux seems reasonable for not having too do all the stuff Tom is doing for each kit.
Now I would see it costing a bit less if the wood were not turned and drilled out. and the same with Holes drilled into the washer and other parts that have too be manipulated. I see the $30 price difference as justified... there is still a good deal of work being put into the kits before they are sold. All the customer is doing is putting the parts together and a bit of finishing work. However there is a point about the no warranty bit. Maybe a slight price adjustment for that.
hey tom is the solder the piece in the photo that looks like a spring?
the only thing I would be worried about putting this thing together would be putting the screens in the tubes... I tend too fumble small parts...
t00fatt
Well-Known Member
The solder is directly below the resistor in that picture, it looks like a bit of wire but that's actually silver solder not wire. The spring, I'm only assuming of course, is what applies tension to the HE. Looks like the spring goes around the central heating tube, then when done assembling the HE you have to compress the top and bottom of the HE and slide in the cross bar in the central tube, keeping everything under tension and sealed. This is just a guess, but either way a much better system then using solder to seal the HE.
DevoTheStrange
Ia! Ia! Vapor Fthagn!
I thought the wire below the resister is just that.... wire. Got too be able too attach the resister too the jack, the wires on the resister are not long enough.
reason I thought the spring might be the solder is because Ive seen it come in spring shapes before. Too me that looks the way solder does when your down too the last bit of the coil.
reason I thought the spring might be the solder is because Ive seen it come in spring shapes before. Too me that looks the way solder does when your down too the last bit of the coil.
t00fatt
Well-Known Member
Well it could very well be wire, but it would be uninsulated and either tinned copper or aluminum, both of which I doubt Tom would use, unless you can get copper tinned in silver solder. Yes wire is definitely needed, yet so is solder. And solder can come in coils, but the coils are much tighter than that, and it would have been a bit of hassle to pull it a part perfectly like that, the coils are spaced perfectly. Of course I don;t know for sure, just what I think it is.DevoTheStrange said:
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
I knew I needed to label the items, this emphasizes that. Like I said, a pre-view.
Probably the image I will use for a while. I used to do some food and small product photography, but this is digital and not as good IMO. (and shot on a t-shirt ) But being able to take a shot, and preview at once is a big plus for digital. This shot was one of many, using different on-board balance settings, then going into PhotoFilter (free-ware that I suggest you try).
A) 4 - 1/2" diameter #5 Polypropylene rods, drilled through,
then drilled for the vapor tip, ready for shaping (1 extra for practice)
B) 3 - 304 Stainless Steel Vapor Tips, cut, dimpled,
de-burred and polished.
C) 6 - 304 Stainless Steel (SS) Screens (3 extra)
D) 8 - small spring steel clips (2 extra)
E) 1 - 1" 304 SS sleeve
F) 1 - large spring steel clip
G) 1 - 304 SS Heat Exchanger (HE) Top Washer, drilled and de-burred
H) 1 - 304 SS HE Crossbar
I) 1 - 304 SS HE Center Tube, cut, de-burred (both ends), flared with special SS tools,
drilled for crossbar using custom jig, holes de-burred and top opening polished.
J) 7 - 304 SS HE 'Dark Fin' washers, black oxide coated
(1 extra, stack 'em how you like)
K) 20 - 304 SS HE 'Heat Sink' flat washers (3 extra)
L) 1 - Purple Days - American Cherry chassis - Cut, shaped by hand and eye
on the lathe, drilled (12 drilling operations), and tapped (threaded).
M) 1 - RoHS compliant Power Jack
N) 1' @ 1mm - RoHS compliant solder (coiled in picture) Sn 96.5% - Ag 3.5%
O) 1- RoHS compliant resistor by Ohmite
P) 1' @ 20ga. - RoHS compliant hook-up wire (by Belden Cable) ('tinned', copper core
[copper not exposed])
Q) 2 - 304 SS screws
R) 1 - Wood bottom disk
S) 1 - 3" x 3" Elk Hide
Below are items N) and P)
P) shows the green 'e' and the 'pine tree' logos for the RoHS status.
N) RoHS compliant as well, this is not from the hardware store, and we will gladly
give part numbers and order history for any to
verify. BTW the solder was taken off the 1/2 kg roll and coiled around a shaft for
distinction from the hook up wire.
+++
The price will be $150, there is a lot that goes into this before it gets shipped, and just to be clear, there will be a $30 fee, re-stocking charge, if you view the DVD and decide not to build the kit (refund of $150 - $30 = $120). Parts will be in clear shrink wrap packs, visible to all, the DVD explains the process, I will try to explain the skill level required by the builder on our web page and here on FC before hand and then in the DVD.. If you think you can do it, then decide you might be in over your head, you have a chance to get out cheap, don't open anything else and send it all back. This covers our original shipping, repackaging and other transaction fees. And this will discourage the (DVD) window shoppers, while giving an out, for honest folks who just change their mind. But I think good pics like this and others will tell you if you can handle the Pandora or not.
+++
I am considering Ash as a Pandora alternative. I have used it for a few local friends and it's a nice species to consider. Maybe Cherry or Ash as the only two Pandora options?
+++
When? About a month.Your input helps... Lots to do and I thought of more / better stuff as late as yesterday. Gonna do it when it's right. Serious about the Ash too, gonna talk to our hardwood man tomorrow. Gotta text label lots of stills, and do a few more vids and the hard part may be the text instructions. But I have been doing this a couple of years and I think I can make a decent stab at it.
+++
Yes, an athletic sock 'top' doubled or tripled over, The Desinex Burger. Used it once or twice, back when grey athletic sock were popular. A good innovation, if laundered...
+++
ps. Thanks to all for the encouragement. PDPs will be handled by us, through our website, for now. If it gets out of hand, we will turn it over to VapeNow.com our trusted partner. We have no way to predict what may happen.
+++
"the constant innovation...' Awww, thanks, so very much. Really means a lot.
Like I said, a pre-view. Probably the image I will use for a while. I used to do some food and small product photography, but this is digital and not as good IMO. (and shot on a t-shirt
) But being able to take a shot, and preview at once is a big plus for digital. This shot was one of many, using different on-board balance settings, then going into PhotoFilter (free-ware that I suggest you try).
A) 4 - 1/2" diameter #5 Polypropylene rods, drilled through,
then drilled for the vapor tip, ready for shaping (1 extra for practice)
B) 3 - 304 Stainless Steel Vapor Tips, cut, dimpled,
de-burred and polished.
C) 6 - 304 Stainless Steel (SS) Screens (3 extra)
D) 8 - small spring steel clips (2 extra)
E) 1 - 1" 304 SS sleeve
F) 1 - large spring steel clip
G) 1 - 304 SS Heat Exchanger (HE) Top Washer, drilled and de-burred
H) 1 - 304 SS HE Crossbar
I) 1 - 304 SS HE Center Tube, cut, de-burred (both ends), flared with special SS tools,
drilled for crossbar using custom jig, holes de-burred and top opening polished.
J) 7 - 304 SS HE 'Dark Fin' washers, black oxide coated
(1 extra, stack 'em how you like)
K) 20 - 304 SS HE 'Heat Sink' flat washers (3 extra)
L) 1 - Purple Days - American Cherry chassis - Cut, shaped by hand and eye
on the lathe, drilled (12 drilling operations), and tapped (threaded).
M) 1 - RoHS compliant Power Jack
N) 1' @ 1mm - RoHS compliant solder (coiled in picture) Sn 96.5% - Ag 3.5%
O) 1- RoHS compliant resistor by Ohmite
P) 1' @ 20ga. - RoHS compliant hook-up wire (by Belden Cable) ('tinned', copper core
[copper not exposed])
Q) 2 - 304 SS screws
R) 1 - Wood bottom disk
S) 1 - 3" x 3" Elk Hide
Below are items N) and P)
P) shows the green 'e' and the 'pine tree' logos for the RoHS status.
N) RoHS compliant as well, this is not from the hardware store, and we will gladly
give part numbers and order history for any to
verify. BTW the solder was taken off the 1/2 kg roll and coiled around a shaft for
distinction from the hook up wire.
+++
The price will be $150, there is a lot that goes into this before it gets shipped, and just to be clear, there will be a $30 fee, re-stocking charge, if you view the DVD and decide not to build the kit (refund of $150 - $30 = $120). Parts will be in clear shrink wrap packs, visible to all, the DVD explains the process, I will try to explain the skill level required by the builder on our web page and here on FC before hand and then in the DVD.. If you think you can do it, then decide you might be in over your head, you have a chance to get out cheap, don't open anything else and send it all back. This covers our original shipping, repackaging and other transaction fees. And this will discourage the (DVD) window shoppers, while giving an out, for honest folks who just change their mind. But I think good pics like this and others will tell you if you can handle the Pandora or not.
+++
I am considering Ash as a Pandora alternative. I have used it for a few local friends and it's a nice species to consider. Maybe Cherry or Ash as the only two Pandora options?
+++
When? About a month.Your input helps... Lots to do and I thought of more / better stuff as late as yesterday. Gonna do it when it's right. Serious about the Ash too, gonna talk to our hardwood man tomorrow. Gotta text label lots of stills, and do a few more vids and the hard part may be the text instructions. But I have been doing this a couple of years and I think I can make a decent stab at it.
+++
Yes, an athletic sock 'top' doubled or tripled over, The Desinex Burger. Used it once or twice, back when grey athletic sock were popular. A good innovation, if laundered...
+++
ps. Thanks to all for the encouragement. PDPs will be handled by us, through our website, for now. If it gets out of hand, we will turn it over to VapeNow.com our trusted partner. We have no way to predict what may happen.
+++
"the constant innovation...' Awww, thanks, so very much. Really means a lot.
G
Guest
Guest
Just tried my cousin's pd a month ago...freakin' amazing!
when i got home immediately jumped on my pc, and dropped a bill eighty
on one! ...i don't even want to use my bong no more! isn't that a daisey?!
lol.
when i got home immediately jumped on my pc, and dropped a bill eighty
on one! ...i don't even want to use my bong no more! isn't that a daisey?!
lol.
G
Guest
Guest
nice work tom.
Purple-Days said:I knew I needed to label the items, this emphasizes that.
Probably the image I will use for a while. I used to do some food and small product photography, but this is digital and not as good IMO. (and shot on a t-shirt
http://i46.tinypic.com/i6a23c.jpg
A) 4 - 1/2" diameter #5 Polypropylene rods, drilled through,
then drilled for the vapor tip, ready for shaping (1 extra for practice)
B) 3 - 304 Stainless Steel Vapor Tips, cut, dimpled,
de-burred and polished.
C) 6 - 304 Stainless Steel (SS) Screens (3 extra)
D) 8 - small spring steel clips (2 extra)
E) 1 - 1" 304 SS sleeve
F) 1 - large spring steel clip
G) 1 - 304 SS Heat Exchanger (HE) Top Washer, drilled and de-burred
H) 1 - 304 SS HE Crossbar
I) 1 - 304 SS HE Center Tube, cut, de-burred (both ends), flared with special SS tools,
drilled for crossbar using custom jig, holes de-burred and top opening polished.
J) 7 - 304 SS HE 'Dark Fin' washers, black oxide coated
(1 extra, stack 'em how you like)
K) 20 - 304 SS HE 'Heat Sink' flat washers (3 extra)
L) 1 - Purple Days - American Cherry chassis - Cut, shaped by hand and eye
on the lathe, drilled (12 drilling operations), and tapped (threaded).
M) 1 - RoHS compliant Power Jack
N) 1' @ 1mm - RoHS compliant solder (coiled in picture) Sn 96.5% - Ag 3.5%
O) 1- RoHS compliant resistor by Ohmite
P) 1' @ 20ga. - RoHS compliant hook-up wire (by Belden Cable) ('tinned', copper core
[copper not exposed])
Q) 2 - 304 SS screws
R) 1 - Wood bottom disk
S) 1 - 3" x 3" Elk Hide
Below are items N) and P)
http://i50.tinypic.com/2cz7qty.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/2aaebf8.jpg
P) shows the green 'e' and the 'pine tree' logos for the RoHS status.
N) RoHS compliant as well, this is not from the hardware store, and we will gladly
give part numbers and order history for any to
verify. BTW the solder was taken off the 1/2 kg roll and coiled around a shaft for
distinction from the hook up wire.
+++
The price will be $150, there is a lot that goes into this before it gets shipped, and just to be clear, there will be a $30 fee, re-stocking charge, if you view the DVD and decide not to build the kit (refund of $150 - $30 = $120). Parts will be in clear shrink wrap packs, visible to all, the DVD explains the process, I will try to explain the skill level required by the builder on our web page and here on FC before hand and then in the DVD.. If you think you can do it, then decide you might be in over your head, you have a chance to get out cheap, don't open anything else and send it all back. This covers our original shipping, repackaging and other transaction fees. And this will discourage the (DVD) window shoppers, while giving an out, for honest folks who just change their mind. But I think good pics like this and others will tell you if you can handle the Pandora or not.
+++
I am considering Ash as a Pandora alternative. I have used it for a few local friends and it's a nice species to consider. Maybe Cherry or Ash as the only two Pandora options?
+++
When? About a month.Your input helps... Lots to do and I thought of more / better stuff as late as yesterday. Gonna do it when it's right. Serious about the Ash too, gonna talk to our hardwood man tomorrow. Gotta text label lots of stills, and do a few more vids and the hard part may be the text instructions. But I have been doing this a couple of years and I think I can make a decent stab at it.
+++
Yes, an athletic sock 'top' doubled or tripled over, The Desinex Burger. Used it once or twice, back when grey athletic sock were popular. A good innovation, if laundered...
+++
ps. Thanks to all for the encouragement. PDPs will be handled by us, through our website, for now. If it gets out of hand, we will turn it over to VapeNow.com our trusted partner. We have no way to predict what may happen.
+++
"the constant innovation...' Awww, thanks, so very much. Really means a lot.
The_Other_Shoe
What's Going On?
I am just wondering, I have been following this thread for a while read all of it, joined at about 135/140 or so. I think the Pandora product should be allowed its own thread. It is a different product technically, and it has overshadowed, in my opinion, lots of the little questions people have asked. Maybe it is just my perspective, but if the Pandora ideas were taken to a different thread I think it would be a lot easier to navigate what people were talking about. Just a thought. 
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
The_Other_Shoe, I will start a Pandora thread when we are ready to release the kit for sale. Until then, I am still developing some ideas (one new one already today VVV), and the instructions and videos are still a work in progress. I haven't even seen the logo on wood yet. I think starting the Pandora thread too early, before the kit is 100%, would generate questions and suggestions that I am already working on. And give me one more thing to keep up with, and respond to, slowing PD production and Pandora development.
Haha, just reading over the list of parts in the Kit, my mind started using Andy Devine's voice from Dr. Strangelove. "A fellow could have a pretty good time in Vegas..."
Xero, woodworking is fun and relaxing and requires a concentration that is a great escape from reality. Try it sometime. Maybe a local vocational school with extension/adult courses.
Tuttle, you just gave me an idea. I always have scrap Cherry in the shop. As of now I think a scrap of cherry (3" x 5") added to the kit would give folks a chance to try any natural stains or other techniques they think of, before they ruin the actual body. Best to practice first. And best to practice on Cherry.
I think starting the Pandora thread too early, before the kit is 100%, would generate questions and suggestions that I am already working on. And give me one more thing to keep up with, and respond to, slowing PD production and Pandora development. Haha, just reading over the list of parts in the Kit, my mind started using Andy Devine's voice from Dr. Strangelove.
"A fellow could have a pretty good time in Vegas..."Xero, woodworking is fun and relaxing and requires a concentration that is a great escape from reality. Try it sometime. Maybe a local vocational school with extension/adult courses.
Tuttle, you just gave me an idea. I always have scrap Cherry in the shop. As of now I think a scrap of cherry (3" x 5") added to the kit would give folks a chance to try any natural stains or other techniques they think of, before they ruin the actual body. Best to practice first. And best to practice on Cherry.
DevoTheStrange
Ia! Ia! Vapor Fthagn!
hehe... that is what I was thinking of Tom... I wanted too burn a design into the wood... so I was planing on buying a plank of cherry too practice on.
MrMistyTokes
Steam Engine
there isnt any carpentry involved in assembling the kit fella hahXero said:
im excited about this i planning to try and pull a small mod myself