Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer

[tradhead]

An inverter does not hold charge, it simply transforms 12v to 120 in USA.
An 8w 1A 12V PD should last at least 35 hours on a standard 35A car battery before the batt is dead as a ghost !
this kind of thing http://www.easygates.co.uk/cart/Details.asp?ProductID=138 would be a cheap solution but to charge it youd need a seperate home charger or a charge splitter installed in car.


This is your best solution IMO or one of a number of similar yokes

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BB7B-12-Volt-Battery/dp/B000H774BY,


For serious 12v stuff a deep cycle battery is best, but expensive. car batterys are made with lots of thin lead plates, when you empty one of charge the plates twist and deform... batt fucked. DC and leisure batts are made with stronger plates so u can empty and recharge them for years. car batts are designed to be kept full.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-StormStation-Rechargeable-SS925/dp/B000B8GBCC/ref=pd_sim_auto_6


and your ready for anything!


PS Ive been running my home 12V solar/wind system for 13yrs, been through plenty of batterys!

 

[Progress]

Hello all!

I just wanted to share an AWESOME PD discovery (IMO). If you find a plug that gives 12V DC at 900 Ma instead of 100mA(1A), the duff of the PD does not get as tanned, the draws have significantly better flavor (IMO), and the efficiency of the PD/density of the clouds is not noticeably compromised in any way (a PD with temp control?--higher OR lower? ).

T, both of your battery suggestions above would work (afaik), although I had to search for the first one (link didn't work). Do you prefer them to the ones linked in the portable power sources thread for any particular reasons--please respond in this thread ( http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=21 ) if you don't mind.

 

[tradhead]

Dodgy idea progress. The PD will draw the power it needs from the WW[wallwart] So you risk overheating the WW by using it on a low Amp WW, = fire hazard also the wire is rated up to .9A if you use that wire to draw 1A then you risk overheating the wire, = fire hazard.. However the PD will use more W in the heating up process, this is where the 1a is needed IMO, IF i recall it uses 12w to heat up and 8 to maintain.
Amps times Volts = Watts
watts divided by volts = Amps
watts divided by amps =volts.
so 12 volts times 1 amp = 12Watts max
but a car battery on charge gives near14 V so potentially it can use 14 watts of power, meaning a hotter PD

8Watts div by 12V =.66A [If it only draws 8W]


By using a lower rated WW this means in heating up the PD you risk stressing out the WW ... not a good idea IMO. The PD will draw the Amps it needs, if it results in lower temp that means the WW cant provide enough Amps for the device meaning the WW will overheat. touch it and see. The PD will also be stressed out , and the wire.



I am no electrician so feel free to correct me.

 

[hazy]

It's not so much the 900mA rating. You'll probably find that the adapter is putting out slightly less than 12V (as they often do), which accounts for the lower amount of power being drawn by the PD and thus its lower temperature.

I've been looking into power sources for the PD lately, as I am interested in some control of the temperature. I like the way the PD is designed for optimal vaping temperature at 12V, but this is also dependent on ambient temperature. The other day it was over 46C (115F) outside and about 40 inside (I've got aircon but I try not to use it), so I'd guess that I was vaping at about 20C above "normal". I know it's an extreme case, but that's a pretty significant increase in vaping temperature in my opinion. By lowering the voltage slightly I could have adjusted the temperature to conpensate.

 

[Purple-Days]

Yes, Hazy is right, the temperature is controlled by voltage. Higher voltage = higher PD temps and lower voltage = lower PD temps. A variable voltage output would give you a variable temp PD.

1000mA capacity is to assure adequate current. Actual requirements are lower than 1000mA but that rating provides 'headroom' and is a pretty standard (easily available) rating.

The PD draws approximately 8 watts, all the time, after plug in. It does not vary. Somebody tell me if I am going off track. 8W @ 12V is about 2/3A. Car batteries are rated in amps. Of course you need adequate amps to start the car after a session, but a good car battery in good conditions has quite a few spare amps... Even at a full amp of draw it would be quite a while before you could drain the battery enouigh to hinder starting. I have never noticed a drain on the truck and that includes a number of extended parking lot sessions. BTW a car batt at full charge is about 12.7 volts and an alternator puts out close to 14 (13.7?) so you can expect a bit higher temps in an automobile (usually offset by more moving air)

 

[Progress]

H - It's not so much the 900mA rating. You'll probably find that the adapter is putting out slightly less than 12V (as they often do), which accounts for the lower amount of power being drawn by the PD and thus its lower temperature.

Just to verify...The volts would affect temp but a change in amps would not (therefore it must just be that the other plug is not putting out the full 12V), right?

Creator(T) - The PD draws approximately 8 watts, all the time, after plug in. It does not vary. Somebody tell me if I am going off track. 8W @ 12V is about 2/3A.

So, the PD does regulate how much power it draws (thought it just drew what was given, which is GREAT for the temps usually desired). Therefore, a battery for the PD would simply have to be at least 1A (or more?) as long as it had 12V DC?

The wall-wart only feels slightly warm after over 48 hours, dangerous ?

I appreciate all of the insight from everyone and look foreword to any more you have (especially the creator of our wooden children, Tom ).

PD TIP: I have stopped using the top clip in the bowl (slightly more room/better flow & the screen fits snug enough not to fall out without it ) Also, I now have 3 spare clips.

Thank you for the accurate information Hazy (will have to try to find a voltmeter), and (oh yeah) Tom...you rock!

PS: My apologies to anyone who read this (previously unedited) post...my brain was on strike.

 

[tradhead]

Wouldn't 12V x 1A = 12 Watts and 12V x 0.9A = 10.8 Watts, no... yep. If it required 12watts to heat up, then you could have a problem. However as tom points out its only using 8watts throughout so even a WW with 700ma draw should be OK in theory.

So it appears there is no problem, I just thought it wise to point out the pitfalls of using the wrong WW for an appliance.

A standard 35A car battery will provide 35 amps for 1 hour, or 1 amp for 35 hours, 500ma for 70 hours etc... truck batterys start at 75AH ... up to 120 i think...

Saying that though it all relates to ambient temp, if your environment is below freezing then perhaps the PD will need more power to attain desired temp... ?or take longer?

 

[Survivalism]

Hey guys im going to be ordering from PD today and i think im going to order it from vape now so i can have it when a good friend of mine arrives this weekend. What is the difference between ordering from vape now and directly from tom and pam? Is their a way i can pay for 2 day shipping from vape now? Thanks.


EDIT: Chat filled me in that vape now carries the normal leather bottom with the sun burned logo, totally kosher with me. Would like to try and ship it 2 day garunteed but i cannot find an option to change shipping, it actually wont tell me what kind of shipping is included heh.

 

[SpiralArchitect]

I'm pretty sure VapeNow has a phone #.

 

[Survivalism]

I'm pretty sure VapeNow has a phone #.

But.. but..

 

[slowandsteady]

Survivalism - Don't forget that you won't be able to order the great accessories that Tom & Pammy offer thru their website. If I remember correctly, VapeNow.com does offer 2 extra tubes for $20.

 

[Survivalism]

Just ordered my purple days from vapenow, didnt need any accescories or anything. Im hoping that usps priority will get it to me by friday. Ahh!! So happy and excited


VapeNow has just started sending out all of their orders 2nd Day UPS service where it's available for anyone that is wondering.

 

[Purple-Days]

Hate to say it but your electrical calculations are just, OFF. And I repeat the draw does not vary... ( " required 12watts to heat up"... Don't know how or where you got that but it is wrong too. Again approx. 8 Watts)

Here is a Wikipedia article about Ohm's law.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
And it will give you a little better understanding of where you are going wrong. Good old Ohm, looking for the perfect conductor.

Watts (Volts x Amps) is determined by resistance and Voltage, NOT by the rating of the wall wart. . .

Interesting... we have never offered extra tubes to VapeNow. Don't see how they might sell something they can't possibly have. Funny ... just looked and don't see any such item. Thanks, but ...

 

[Survivalism]

Here you go Tom, heres the link for the extra tubes on vapenow...


http://vapenow.com/index.php/Vapor+Tubes+for+Purple+Days+(2-pack)-p-296/

 

[josh]

2 for $16 from Tom's site...why pay $4 more??? IMO

 

[tradhead]

Hate to say it but your electrical calculations are just, OFF. And I repeat the draw does not vary... ( " required 12watts to heat up"... Don't know how or where you got that but it is wrong too. Again approx. 8 Watts)

Watts (Volts x Amps) is determined by resistance and Voltage, NOT by the rating of the wall wart.
..

I never said the wattage was determined by the WW. ?

Anyhow, where are my calculations off tom? Precisely which figure do you mean ? . You yourself told us that we need a 1amp WW? is it therefore unreasonable to use that figure in calculating watts? The 12watt figure came from your recommended 1amp 12 v WW. AxV=w Anyhow. I think you will find my calculations are correct, but thats of little importance, [the calculator did it all or me ] But it does bring us back to my earlier question. I run all my lights sounds etc from a couple of solar panels and a wind generator via a bunch of batterys , charge regulators etc. the system provides more like 14v and of course there is no 'moving air' [unless its REAL windy ] So I gather my PD will be operating at a higher temp than normal. Is this going to be a problem ? I dont think so but thought it wise to raise the issue. Also the centre positive/ negative thing is important for some equipment, but not others. my drill just runs backwards if I change the terminals over! but other gear just goes Bang and smoke curls up from the workings and also some people were wondering about AC/Dc story. the PD operates on DC power right. not AC. DC power does not travel well over distance , so I use very thick cable for my 140WRMS sound system, serious cable there!now that equation was definitely too much for my poor addled mind , 30yrs of toking ... now what was I on about? ah yes ... well what dya reckon tom?

 

[Hennessy1414]

damn new guy got all the info...hell yeah..idk if your right but..seems your pretty sure

good quote BTW...really deep

 

[Purple-Days]

Thanks for the link on those tubes. I suppose Nate will just hit my - 2 tubes without kit - 'buy' button and give me an address. Surprised he hasn't mentioned it, guess he will when it comes up, no big deal, we get along well together. And are both busy...

Trad, says "I never said the wattage was determined by the WW."... but then you say,"12watt figure came from your recommended 1amp 12 v WW" thus contradicting yourself.

So, you are basing all your calculations on a wall wart rating, not the resistance of the circuit, which coupled with the voltage will give you the draw in Amps.

I = V / R , is the first equation and you don't know I or R. Once you have it (I or R) then you can figure the other missing variable. (Hint: I does not equal 1) Then, W = I x V. And you don't know I till you calculate the first equation which you are missing a value (but can approximate given the 8 Watts rating I have provided).

Man, I haven't dealt with this in 30+ stoner years either. But Ohm's Law hasn't changed much. Again the article on Ohm's Law will give you the basics you need to start any calculations.

Yes we suggest a 1 amp wall wart. Easy specs to follow. And an easy wart to find. That will provide adequate current. As I suggested the 1A provides 'headroom'... the unit does not draw 1A, therefor any calculations based on a 1 Amp draw are wrong. Sorry, that's not how the math works. And we use 8 watts as an approximation, I can give you the draw down to the decimal, but what good would that do? It's under 8W BTW.

AC or DC ? If it's 12 Volts doesn't matter... Center positive for the early LED versions (find out about diodes and LEDs to see why we could use an AC or DC current and why center positive was needed for that app.)

The current version works with 12VAC or 12VDC (center positive or center negative). Even easier.

Higher voltage will result in higher temps. The unit is designed to operate safely on car voltages (alternator output or wet cells). Yes you will get higher temps at those voltages.


Hennessy, there are folks who are confident in lots of things, not all of them are right. Bigfoot, UFOs and even bad math. Ask the boys who plowed that mars mission into the surface at several hundred miles an hour, OFF by one decimal place. As Max Smart said,"Missed it by that much..."

 

[tradhead]

Trad, says "I never said the wattage was determined by the WW."... but then you say,"12watt figure came from your recommended 1amp 12 v WW" thus contradicting yourself. uhoh

Not at all tom, The maximum wattage available is 12watts from a 1amp WW running on a 12v system. 14 volts will allow a max wattage of 14w,If the voltage determines the wattage then a 14v system will get hotter right? so what wattage would the PD use at 14v? 9.2 watts? I dont need to know the amp draw, as long as it is not above 1 amp as it is not relevant right? I = V / R is irrelevant in my calculations because , as you say, I dont know the resistance. As you know my calculations are correct based upon the information you have provided, So please dont accuse me of 'bad maths' unless you can actually provide a specific example. If you suggest the 1amp WW to supply enough head room then Im glad that is now clear.
Can explain why a 700ma 12 vv is not suitable? Id be interested to hear it, seriously. What is the headroom there for if the unit only uses 8 watts .66ma?
You mention a few times the relevance of moving air in a car acting as a coolant to explain why its ok to run your PD on a 14v rail,and if the car is running but windows closed? . So could you tell us the actual operating temperature on a 14v system ? On a cold evening my battery's can hover at 11 volts unloaded so the temp at this voltage would be useful to know... will I be able to vape on a cold calm night? thanks for your help.

Also what is the effect of ambient temperature? will the PD run at the same temp irrelevant to the air temp? does it just take longer to achieve desired temp? or will its heat be commensurately hotter or colder? ie at subzero temperatures and at around 40C? What about altitude?I know there will be some effect but whether it has relevance I dont know... perhaps mountain climbers would like to take their PD with them At what ambient temperature and altitude do you base your calculations as far as attaining desired temperature? I live up a mountain so this could have relevance...cheers

heres a couple of my tunes and original knotwork

Ps either or, I am asking questions to ascertain a number of pertinent facts.

 

[EitherOr]

Tom,

If you wouldn't mind, and if this is sensitive information I totally understand you not divulging it, but about how many PD's are 'in the wild'?
I was using your lovely invention last night with a friend and I wondered aloud how many of "us" there are. By "us" I mean PD vaporist.


And Mr. Tradhead, I dont think anyone is questioning your knowledge. But when it comes to PD's I would listen to Tom, as he has a decisive advantage here. He developed the darn thing, and probably knows all the little details of its working that you, I, and everyone else don't.

Edit for spelling correction!

 

[tradhead]

well tom just told me that the PD doesnt appear to be the vape for me! and refunded my money?! WTF? I would rather have made that decision myself! well lucky I bought a DaBuddha too eh? LOL still I hope he will answer my questions none the less for the others who might be in a similar situation to me... off grid living in the mountains, reliant on 12v electricity. So tom what is the problem with your PD that makes you think its not suitable for a 12v solar powered system? and of course all the other questions above.. I know they are tricky questions and not easy to answer but a solution for freezing climates would be handy, and also for very hot climates... would a higher voltage WW be suitable for cold climates and lower for hot climates?

 

[Frickr]

i dont understand why everyone is badgering tom to get all the specs out of this thing. how easy would it be to build a copy cat version of this vape if you knew the exact wattage of the resistor tom uses to heat the unit up?

has it not been proven time and time again that the pd works well with the power that it has going to it?

my knowledge of resistors is that there could be 500 free watts floating around in a system just and if you plug something in that takes say 100 watts, all of those 500 watts arent going to go to the resistor.

like a lightbulb. you can just as easily put in a 60 watt as a 100 watt lightbulb in the same outlet. the 100 watt still gives out more light on the same wiring system. electronics use only the power that they need. the rest is either sent back through the grid, or given off in heat, vibration, light, or any other form of energy.

 

[tradhead]

Its only a few questions? ... the thing is I have heard of the PD not working so well in really cold environments... can anyone clarify this? it does relate to the ambient air temp... besides the questions could maybe answered by anyone with the practical knowledge... and there is a big difference between knowing vaguely how to do something and actually doing it! Hats off to tom there he really did it and its a success. My questions relate to abnormal conditions, for example who of the PD owners runs theirs off a solar panel? anyone.? I use this one; http://www.sailgb.com/p/p3_folding_panels_with_cable_set/ portable and rugged, like the PD.

 

[free thinker]

Well, I got my PD in yesterday. I ordered through purple-days.com on 1/30 mid-afternoon. Pammy emailed me with the confirmation that same day. I'm so glad it's here. First tube load did not let me down. I love this thing! It was a pleasure communicating with Pammy throughout the entire process. I was a vaporizer virgin before yesterday and it was extremely easy to use. Not only that, very smooth with a great taste. I'm only using mid-grade stuff as well. Well, that's all I'll say for now as I need to load up a tube right now Thanks for such a wicked invention, Tom! Expect some more orders from the Cincinnati area in the near future

 

[Frickr]

Its only a few questions? ... the thing is I have heard of the PD not working so well in really cold environments... can anyone clarify this? it does relate to the ambient air temp... besides the questions could maybe answered by anyone with the practical knowledge... and there is a big difference between knowing vaguely how to do something and actually doing it! Hats off to tom there he really did it and its a success. My questions relate to abnormal conditions, for example who of the PD owners runs theirs off a solar panel? anyone.? I use this one; http://www.sailgb.com/p/p3_folding_panels_with_cable_set/ portable and rugged, like the PD.

being that it uses a heat exchanger, if your air is X degrees is going to take Y time to fully heat up. say your airs 60 degrees F . that air moving over the constant temp of the heat exchanger wich is the given. the 60 degree air is going to take longer to fully heat the air moving through the exchanger than air thats 90 degrees. thinking of air like a fluid, as it passes over the air exchanger, the molicules in the air hit the faster moving more excited molecules in the metal that transfer some of their heat energy over to the fluid.

thats where the mass of the heat exchanger comes into play. depending on the speed you inhale will allow more/less time for the air to fully come in contact and transfer enough heat energy to vaporize. by the air being colder the temp of the unit wont be colder, all that will happen is that it will take a little longer for that sample of air to fully come to temp.

cold water doesnt boil the second you put it on the stove, cold air doesnt fully heat up the second it touches the heat exchanger.

as we all know heat energy gets transfered from more excited areas to less active areas, and by the more excited molecules running into the slower moving molecules everything sort of balences out. the more excited take some of their stored energy and transfer it to the slower moving molecules. so one becomes a little slower, the other becomes a little faster.

the only way that colder air could influence the tempeture to cause any change in temp would be is if the amount of heat energy needed to heat the air moving throught the exchanger exceeded the amount of heat energy stored in the mass of the heat exchanger resulting in a loss of temp.