dab&grabass
Member
Yes he did, unclear why unless maybe it's a liability. stretching definitely enhances the experience.
Phase3 Vaporizers
- Thread starter invertedisdead
- Start date
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
His reasoning was very close to the comment from the thread posted above. I think there's a temp gradient he was achieving with the unstretched coil and considered that advantageous. But he I think he runs his a little hotter, too. He's mentioned using bigger balls which implies a higher heat and his method I believe is analogous to a snap.
CaleidosCope
Well-Known Member
Yeah it wobbles minimal. Absolutely NO sticky joints so far and no worries.Kinda weird question, but: How flush do your zx heaters sit in the bowls? Mine does wobble quite a bit and I wonder if that's something to worry about
Try putting the cold ZX together with the ZX-Bowl and suck on the end of the ZX-Bowl and hold the ZX closed with your finger. Tight? Good!
One can conclude from this: It doesn't suck!
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feralcomprehension
Qualified Observer
Same.
TedJones
Well-Known Member
The ledge in the bowl that the ZX heater sits on is flared and angles downward a bit so there should be a little play. If you’re using a handle, that may make it lean/rock a bit more too. Sometimes I feel I need to press on it to get the best pull with some of my smaller rigs. Only thing it sticks in is a small 18>14 adapter I like using but that’s no biggie at all.
vapefritz
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Honestly I don't think it's an actual issue. More psychologically. When pulling I feel like I have to readjust the heater to get a perfect fit, because of that little bit of play! But in reality you just pop it in and it's a solid seal anyways.
Having used glass pipes for a long time I'd say I am just used to that perfect fit on high quality glass joints. But this is not a simple joint: We have the little ledge that directs the hot air stream and the heater sitting on this ledge probably is why it never gest stuck. Just have to get used to the feel!
So while I am at it here's my little review:
Both heater and bowl are simple solid shiny black zircon. Look and feel amazing. Quality of processing seems to be perfect. Some edges are sharp and not rounded, I would prefer them a little bit blunt, but who cares. Because this material is so awesome I don't think there is risk of those edges breaking off like with regular ceramic anyways. Make sure the two o-rings sit tightly on the bowl! You don't want it to slip out while you are emptying it.
The controller that came with the preorder bundle is the default crossing technology pid controller. Not much to say about it, does the job.Celsius setting would be nice but does not really matter, just remember the number you like and be done with it. Switch position at the back of the case is a bit weird. No issues at all with the coil.
Everything came pre assembled and ready to go. Using this on a bong I am usually at 550 degrees Fahrenheit. Flavor is incredibly smooth, just perfect. Extraction is good, everything equally light brown.
Not much that has not been said already! All in all very happy with this thing. No reason to buy anything new anytime soon! Well, besides a tiny bit larger bowl maybe. Anyways when are the wireless phase3 zircon sets going to be released?
99.9%! Trying this while it's on a bong I can see some tiny bubbles if I hold it a certain way.
Honestly I don't think it's an actual issue. More psychologically. When pulling I feel like I have to readjust the heater to get a perfect fit, because of that little bit of play! But in reality you just pop it in and it's a solid seal anyways.
Having used glass pipes for a long time I'd say I am just used to that perfect fit on high quality glass joints. But this is not a simple joint: We have the little ledge that directs the hot air stream and the heater sitting on this ledge probably is why it never gest stuck. Just have to get used to the feel!
So while I am at it here's my little review:
Both heater and bowl are simple solid shiny black zircon. Look and feel amazing. Quality of processing seems to be perfect. Some edges are sharp and not rounded, I would prefer them a little bit blunt, but who cares. Because this material is so awesome I don't think there is risk of those edges breaking off like with regular ceramic anyways. Make sure the two o-rings sit tightly on the bowl! You don't want it to slip out while you are emptying it.
The controller that came with the preorder bundle is the default crossing technology pid controller. Not much to say about it, does the job.
Everything came pre assembled and ready to go. Using this on a bong I am usually at 550 degrees Fahrenheit. Flavor is incredibly smooth, just perfect. Extraction is good, everything equally light brown.
Not much that has not been said already! All in all very happy with this thing. No reason to buy anything new anytime soon! Well, besides a tiny bit larger bowl maybe. Anyways when are the wireless phase3 zircon sets going to be released?
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CaleidosCope
Well-Known Member
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vapefritz
Well-Known Member
Oh. Ooooh! Welp ok I got it in celsius now and also ran the auto adjust (by holding "set" and ">" for four seconds). Seems to be alright.
Are there other settings I should adjust in there? Did not realize at all this is such a customizable device! Is there something like a list of the correct settings for feg the coil that comes with the zx in case I screw something up?
CaleidosCope
Well-Known Member
I got mine (Aliexpess) running and tweaked a bit. Auto-Tune missed. Had an overshot up to 380°C. Give this a try (PID for dummies
). Of course you can screw things up if you are messing with the controller. But if you sit next to it and have the kill switch in reach... there should be no explosion. !!! If you change something... WRITE DOWN the value BEFORE you change it. I know what I am talking about!!!
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This is great. I've been looking for something like this to share with interested folks. Thanks!Give this a try (PID for dummies
vapefritz
Well-Known Member
Ok don't judge but when it arrived I just plugged the controller in. I then tried to set it to a reasonable temperature and here I thought "set" was meant for you to manually enter the temperature instead of going there with the up/down buttons. So I might have entered a few three digit numbers in the set menu before!!!! If you change something... WRITE DOWN the value BEFORE you change it. I know what I am talking about!!!
That said I now got it on Celsius and auto-tuning worked really well for me. Main difference I see is that before the tuning it would overshoot by 2-3 degrees, now it seems a bit more moderate. But it would be nice to just have a list of all correct settings! Some settings, like type of temperature sensor, are really something you need to know and not just find out by trial and error I think!
CaleidosCope
Well-Known Member
Keep your fingers off the temp sensor settings. It is set. Don't need to change... you will have NO accurate temp readings after this.
There are multiple sensors around with various temp ranges. We need K-Type. And it is set.
You can mess with the P.I.D. settings. That's OK.
Mine is not perfect for now. It overshots from cold to start by about 60°C (Target: 225°C --> 285°C). But if it is settled it is rock solid on my desired temp.
You can try:
P: 170 (changed to 150... tinkering)
I: 016
D: 004
Ar: 060
r: 003
Did you write down your OLD settings?
...mine are here (This controller is a modified* Sinotimer MT-S) I don't use the Phase3-Controler.
*modified= unsoldered the mechanical relay, swapped with this 8A-SSR-Relay ---> Silence!
But I think it will differ a little from system to system. IMHO every new coil needs to be "married" to the controller for fine-tuning.
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dab&grabass
Member
Re zxb paired. Has anyone lit up at 490f or less?
After a 15sec heating the bowl, and a medium draw, I got fire. Lesson learned, the coil is so tight it squawks.
After a 15sec heating the bowl, and a medium draw, I got fire. Lesson learned, the coil is so tight it squawks.
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
I haven't come close to combustion with mine but I run kinda low. I do notice though the the ZX's performance seems much more subject to the specifics of individual glass pieces than many of my other vapes, perhaps because I run low temps? Point is that you may need to find temp ranges specific to the piece.
feralcomprehension
Qualified Observer
What do you mean? What have you noticed?
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
At the same temp, the restriction on one piece will cause it to roast darker than on another piece, at least as far as I can tell. I'm finding the need to adjust for some pieces if I go from my sorta generic base temp. I think it's because I'm running it lower for flavor and effects, making it more sensitive to the force of the pull? My larger, hotter heads I rarely adjust from the the std temp I've found for them individually.
salentoreggaesea91
Member
Greetings to all nice people...new on FC...I would like to ask you guys one thing....I'm very in big hype for the ZX and I want it to pre-order it now (it will be my firts real ball vapes after I diy a pinky).....would like to know about compatibility beetween pid and coil and gophase3....I tried to email him but I couldn't get answer yet so maybe somebody here could help me before prices go up....I have a china pid from aliexpress which I bought for the pinky, and I saw that there is the choose to delete temperature controller when pre-ordering the ZX...so my question is, will be present a 16mm coil if I choose no to temperature controller? does anyone know if it is compatible with the pid that I have?...also maybe could you explain fpr personal information whats dnail pinout only mean???sorry guys I'm italian and with technical word I lost all confidence with english....whanks to everyone who will help and sorry for bother you guys...
CaleidosCope
Well-Known Member
Hi. Your coil plug has 5 Pins. Two for temp. Two for heating (AC-power). One for the ground. If they are soldered in a different alignment, for example the two pins for the temp sensor are connected to the 220v power ---> you will totally FRY your controller.
I did this once ...not funny.
I think if you uncheck the controller option you won't get a coil either. (sorry but unchecking the controller is ridiculous ... I paid 200$ for the ZX and the Bowl - SOLO (...absolutely worth the money!) Now you get it preorder with a controller and a preinstalled coil. Same price. BARGAIN!)
Your controller (pinky) will work... but you have to checkout the wiring of your old-coils plug... Temp is mostly black and red (not interchangeable - or your temps go negative). AC power are mostly two blue wires. Ground is green or yellow. It has to match with your new coil. Most aliexpress-coils come with a plug which you have to solder the wires to the five pins.
If you go the thinkering way... please try to know what you are doing. Electricity = Danger!
And as a non native englishman from Germany
I can tell you: take it easy... USE DEEPL.
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salentoreggaesea91
Member
First of all thanks caleidos for feedback...much appreaciate it!....maybe I sound too dumb the way I wrote my messagesHi. Your coil plug has 5 Pins. Two for temp. Two for heating (AC-power). One for the ground. If they are soldered in a different alignment, for example the two pins for the temp sensor are connected to the 220v power ---> you will totally FRY your controller.
I did this once ...not funny.
I think if you uncheck the controller option you won't get a coil either. (sorry but unchecking the controller is ridiculous ... I paid 200$ for the ZX and the Bowl - SOLO (...absolutely worth the money!) Now you get it preorder with a controller and a preinstalled coil. Same price. BARGAIN!)
Your controller (pinky) will work... but you have to checkout the wiring of your old-coils plug... Temp is mostly black and red (not interchangeable - or your temps go negative). AC power are mostly two blue wires. Ground is green or yellow. It has to match with your new coil. Most aliexpress-coils come with a plug which you have to solder the wires to the five pins.
If you go the thinkering way... please try to know what you are doing. Electricity = Danger!
And as a non native englishman from Germany
....I know that coil has 5 pins and I know that not every coil will work with every pid....for example auber coil or dc coil can't work with qarom's pid or b2cvape pid....so I just wanted to know if the pre oreder without temperature controller will come with a 16mm coil and if that coil could be used with b2cvape pid...thats all!
No way I could put my hands on soldering, totally out of my competences....my b2cvape coils came assembled and I didn't have to solder anything, anyway thanks you wor your safety concern!!!
And I get you when you say that uncheching the pid is not a bi deal but hey...I already have one pid that I'm not using...so if I can save something why not?...plus don't know how it works in germnay but in italy we pay more taxes for overseas goods above 150$....so I can save on import tax as well...I think is not that ridicoulos as a way to move...
lazylathe
Almost there...
First of all thanks caleidos for feedback...much appreaciate it!....maybe I sound too dumb the way I wrote my messages
I know that coil has 5 pins and I know that not every coil will work with every pid....for example auber coil or dc coil can't work with qarom's pid or b2cvape pid....so I just wanted to know if the pre oreder without temperature controller will come with a 16mm coil and if that coil could be used with b2cvape pid...thats all!
No way I could put my hands on soldering, totally out of my competences....my b2cvape coils came assembled and I didn't have to solder anything, anyway thanks you wor your safety concern!!!
And I get you when you say that uncheching the pid is not a bi deal but hey...I already have one pid that I'm not using...so if I can save something why not?...plus don't know how it works in germnay but in italy we pay more taxes for overseas goods above 150$....so I can save on import tax as well...I think is not that ridicoulos as a way to move...
I think there was a mention of this earlier in the thread.
I seem to remember a picture that showed the pin layout for the coils @invertedisdead sells with the ZX heads.
You would need to verify the pin placement on your coil VS the ones supplied by gophase3.
i am not familiar with your unit but you should be able to find the pin out info!
A quick Google and I found this pink layout for the Disorderly Conduction coils:
DC KEVLAR COIL 16MM
DC KEVLAR COIL 16MM The DC Coil 16mm is compatible with MOST analog and digital e-nails, Ideal for DC 3D E-NAIL or PELINAIL. Includes: 1 x 16mm DC Kevlar Coil OUR 5Pin XLR Wiring Diagram Pin1, Pin2 are power for coil;Pin3, TC+;Pin4, TC-;Pin5, Ground; This Information can be used with DIY...
www.disorderlyconduction.com
If you match the pin layout, you will be good to go!
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salentoreggaesea91
Member
thx lazylathe...I'll try to find that image and check this things...I went past page 100 but I didn't see it...I'll go back a little more and check again....
lazylathe
Almost there...
I updated my post with a link to the pin layouts used by Disorderly Conduction!
Have a look and compare to your coil!
salentoreggaesea91
Member
ok...as far I understand he is using D-Nail pinout wiring (which I'm not sure I totally understand the meaning...I think D-Nail must be a company) which should be compatible with disordely conduction pid.....and the pinout of disorderly is different from the one I own...If I understood good I should buy whole kit...