Healthy Rips FURY EDGE

OF

Well-Known Member
I've got an Edge on the way via PuffItUp. Any first-use/beginner tips worth sharing? Are burn-offs a good/bad idea with this vape? Can all parts be cleaned with an ISO soak?

Not to worry, very 'newbie friendly' vape. Short list of features, easy to use controls and easy to keep clean and in action. Basically no 'wrong way to use it'.

Listen to @Jill NYC , she is wise.

OF
 

olivianewtonjohn

Well-Known Member
I've got an Edge on the way via PuffItUp. Any first-use/beginner tips worth sharing? Are burn-offs a good/bad idea with this vape? Can all parts be cleaned with an ISO soak?

Maybe you will find this helpful
20190822-171401.jpg


I had a $3 OG chillum laying around (was going to use a for a dyna stem but went with something else), its the only thing that fit well. It has a restriction so not ideal (3D Edge stem is probably ideal) but I do get very nice vapor with it. Plus it feels like an Arizer Solo with the long stem.

Two tips:
1) I like the screen switched (once its on hold power to flip screen), fits not quite as well in your hand BUT you can use your pinky to help with grip without worrying about blocking the air holes. Pointer finger rests on on/off button and middle finger can be used to adjust temp.
2) No clue if this is recommended but I basically smelled everything when I received it and I did notice some smell with the silicone parts so I soaked all of them in ISO in the Fury Edge rubber cover (which also had a smell). I also noticed the fury edge finish has a smell and this might be what some people are noticing. I blew air through the bottom holes as well as through the chamber side. I think blowing air in the reverse direction helps to heat cure/rid the bottom of the device from any odor that might be coming from the finish.

Dont get me wrong the smells were all pretty muted but I think thats what some people with more sensitive senses are noticing. I would bet blowing air in reverse is something people havent tried. I dont see how it could damage anything. So far I have been impressed with the flavor, based on reviews I was expecting it to not taste as good as it does.
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Interesting advice, what's it based on?

TIA

OF
While reading the latest comments in this thread I figured that, hey, it's a Type-C connection now! same recommendation as the one from the smartphones sector is applied here (nobody wants to charge his phone from an Apple MacBook Type-C cable 5A)

P.S
Most chargers are 5V/2A or some 5V QC2/3, right, but still.... better safe than sorry.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
While reading the latest comments in this thread I figured that, hey, it's a Type-C connection now! same recommendation as the one from the smartphones sector is applied here (nobody wants to charge his phone from an Apple MacBook Type-C cable 5A)

P.S
Most chargers are 5V/2A or some 5V QC2/3, right, but still.... better safe than sorry.

Thanks. I think I follow, but that's not how electricity works. EDGE will only take as much current as it wants, providing at least that much is available. If I plug say a 50 watt desk lamp (about .4 Amps at 120 Volts) into a standard 15 Amp outlet (being fed by a 20 Amp breaker) it doesn't blow up. It simply uses as much current as it wants and the remainder is available to other loads of is simply not drawn from the power mains.

If the available current is less, say an old school USB laptop port only good for half an Amp, EDGE will simply accept the lower current and change slower......for a longer time.

My EDGE draws something a bit under 1.5 Amps as I recall when 'dead' even though the source is capable of six Amps. That 1500 or so mA (thousandths of an Amp) current stays constant (adding up more and more 'mAh' (mA for an hour) as the cell charges. It's voltage (pressure) rises in keeping with the current (electron flow) until it reaches something like 3.2 Volts (maximum safe voltage) where the charger starts to 'dial back' the current to stay under that limit. This could 'go on forever' getting smaller and smaller until it exactly matched the small current 'lost', so the charger cuts it off when the value drops to 1/10 of the maximum it's set for.

No danger at all. Whoever told you that was perhaps having some fun but Members should not take such warnings seriously.

Thanks.

OF
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I think I follow, but that's not how electricity works. EDGE will only take as much current as it wants, providing at least that much is available. If I plug say a 50 watt desk lamp (about .4 Amps at 120 Volts) into a standard 15 Amp outlet (being fed by a 20 Amp breaker) it doesn't blow up. It simply uses as much current as it wants and the remainder is available to other loads of is simply not drawn from the power mains.

If the available current is less, say an old school USB laptop port only good for half an Amp, EDGE will simply accept the lower current and change slower......for a longer time.

My EDGE draws something a bit under 1.5 Amps as I recall when 'dead' even though the source is capable of six Amps. That 1500 or so mA (thousandths of an Amp) current stays constant (adding up more and more 'mAh' (mA for an hour) as the cell charges. It's voltage (pressure) rises in keeping with the current (electron flow) until it reaches something like 3.2 Volts (maximum safe voltage) where the charger starts to 'dial back' the current to stay under that limit. This could 'go on forever' getting smaller and smaller until it exactly matched the small current 'lost', so the charger cuts it off when the value drops to 1/10 of the maximum it's set for.

No danger at all. Whoever told you that was perhaps having some fun but Members should not take such warnings seriously.

Thanks.

OF

The tip came from a thread (not from FC, Smartphone section guide) that said that there's a chance that the electronics which should monitor the current which gets inside the battery has flipped or just stopped working.
Each device will take the current that needs, right, but what happens when this electronic stopped to do its job? and then bigger amount of amperage will get in, I agree that it is maybe over-cautious, but think about it.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Each device will take the current that needs, right, but what happens when this electronic stopped to do its job? and then bigger amount of amperage will get in, I agree that it is maybe over-cautious, but think about it.

Sorry, can't comment intelligently on what passes for good advice on lesser forums, I try to confine such comments to what I have first hand knowledge/experience on and only on some of the Portables here. But, in this case 'batteries are batteries'.

The truth, as I understand it, is Li based cells as we're using here, can be safely charged as fast as they can be discharged safely (otherwise regenerative breaking in electric cars wouldn't work?). Rate (current) is basically a matter of convenience. What is fatal is not stopping charging at a low enough voltage (seriously over charging) which can obviously happen with any practical current you might find.......it just takes a little longer to blow up/catch fire. Zero protection/advantage? If the charge controller fails to shift from Constant Current (CC) to Constant Voltage (CV) mode you're SOL (another technical term). Bad things are going to happen, if you're lucky it's only going to destroy your battery or vape, not your house.

In a way, high current capacity ports might 'save the day' if they allowed very high currents through burning out the defective charge controller 'chip'? In such cases they could be safer?

Charging more slowly (lower current) isn't going to do much more than delay the pending disaster if the controller fails. IMO pretty lame advice, especially 'transferred' here?

You didn't notice HR giving this safety tip did you? I didn't.......but then again more and more gets past me these days.

Regards to all.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
But couldn't charging at higher currents tax the controller causing failure?

Good question, but no. The charge controller 'sets' the maximum possible charge current (based on a resistor from one pin to ground), not the potential of the source. It will charge at the same rate from a 5 Amp source as a two Amp one.

Charge current is set by the controller, not the source potential ability to deliver. Just like the desk lamp example. Hooking your lawn sprinkler to a 'contractor's tap' (adapter to a handy fire hydrant) doesn't damage it. Even though the hydrant can deliver hundreds or even thousands of times the volume used or what the faucet on the house can.

It does heat some, since the current is coming in at five Volts but being delivered to the battery at 'only 3'. This difference (in volts) times that current (in amps) is this power in Watts. However, built into the controllers is an 'on chip' temperature sensor that will automatically throttle back the charge if it heats too much.

This is also why controllers typically have a maximum input of 7 Volts (to keep the power dissipation low).

Again, current is a flow rate. Voltage is electrical pressure. Power (Watts) is the product of those two. If the current doesn't flow it doesn't count, just like the water in the mains in front of your house.

OF
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Good question, but no. The charge controller 'sets' the maximum possible charge current (based on a resistor from one pin to ground), not the potential of the source. It will charge at the same rate from a 5 Amp source as a two Amp one.

Charge current is set by the controller, not the source potential ability to deliver. Just like the desk lamp example. Hooking your lawn sprinkler to a 'contractor's tap' (adapter to a handy fire hydrant) doesn't damage it. Even though the hydrant can deliver hundreds or even thousands of times the volume used or what the faucet on the house can.

It does heat some, since the current is coming in at five Volts but being delivered to the battery at 'only 3'. This difference (in volts) times that current (in amps) is this power in Watts. However, built into the controllers is an 'on chip' temperature sensor that will automatically throttle back the charge if it heats too much.

This is also why controllers typically have a maximum input of 7 Volts (to keep the power dissipation low).

Again, current is a flow rate. Voltage is electrical pressure. Power (Watts) is the product of those two. If the current doesn't flow it doesn't count, just like the water in the mains in front of your house.

OF
I take this answer for this issue. I think the guy who recommended going only with 3A or 2A just was abit paranoid.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I take this answer for this issue. I think the guy who recommended going only with 3A or 2A just was abit paranoid.

Second hand paranoid advice should not be presented as fact on FC if it can so easily be shown bogus........

And again, a big clue is lack of such warning from HR?

I suggest owners should enjoy their EDGE, not obsess over the cable being used to charge with (not that the cable involved has any impact, it's the USB source connected to it). My 'take' is as long as that source meets USB specs, EDGE will safely deal with it for you. Fear not.

OF
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
Second hand paranoid advice should not be presented as fact on FC if it can so easily be shown bogus........

And again, a big clue is lack of such warning from HR?

I suggest owners should enjoy their EDGE, not obsess over the cable being used to charge with (not that the cable involved has any impact, it's the USB source connected to it). My 'take' is as long as that source meets USB specs, EDGE will safely deal with it for you. Fear not.

OF
You won't get an answer from HR about this issue mate, they don't create the batteries AFAIK.
Every tip that is PROVEN from the 5V 2-3A non QC smartphone section should be applied in this device. But seems like the amperage part isn't a real tip.

@OF Remember the FURY 2 had micro USB connection. You don't have 5A cables in the micro usb world.
 
GoldenBud,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Every tip that is PROVEN from the 5V 2-3A non QC smartphone section should be applied in this device. But seems like the amperage part isn't a real tip.

Two requests:
1) Please show me where this is "PROVEN".
2) Explain why advice for a completely different product should matter with this vape.

TIA

What happens if you ignore the above advice and plug your cell phone in a lower current port? Doesn't it just charge slower, not be damaged? You're right, I think, the Amperage part is a red herring....... No doubt conveyed along by folks who sincerely think they know what they're talking about?

@OF Remember the FURY 2 had micro USB connection. You don't have 5A cables in the micro usb world.

Actually I do. Right here. It's a 'three headed' cable (micro USB, USB-C, and the connector for my IPad, 'Lightning' IIRC). It's attached to a five Amp source ATM, although the meter attached to it only measures to 3 Amps. Not important since nothing I charge draws that much, I can even charge two devices at once (if they use different USB connectors of course) as long as I stay under 3 Amps total. I used to use a 'two head' micro USB cable, but got tired of messing with the little adapters for USB-C and the IPad. I basically charge everything from it, the IPad charges slower than off it's dedicated charger since it lacks the special charger circuit that 'turns on' high current charging. It works just fine, trust me.

F2 charges at the normal rate, just because it could draw more current from the source and 'blow up' it doesn't any more than the desk lamp example you don't seem to want to respond to?

"Never argue with electrons, they know what they're doing".

Regards to all.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I think OF is an electron. I won’t argue with him :lol::peace:

A somewhat homely looking EXTREMELY overweight one, perhaps. It takes something like four followed by 31 zeros to make up a pound. OTOH, just one of me makes up many many pounds.

Acting alone they're pretty insignificant. An Amp is a Coulomb of them passing any given point in a second....second after second. A Coulomb is a big number, six Quintilian (6 with 18 zeros). Say as many people as would be in Billion planet Earths?

They get around more socially than I do as well........

Still, the quote from a past workmate is right. Every time the electrons don't make any sense in what they're doing, the 'adjustment' has to be in your understanding.

Thanks for the smile.

OF
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
I think the guy who recommended going only with 3A or 2A just was abit paranoid.
Too much sativa.:tup:
I charge my Mighty off my spare Optima 12v battery and that can deliver 460 amps if required, I also charge from my 4wd battery system that has twin batteries that can deliver 1500amps if required, quite a bit more than the 2 amp Mighty charger.:myday:
As @OF said, nothing to worry about here.:tup:
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Too much sativa.:tup:
I charge my Mighty off my spare Optima 12v battery and that can deliver 460 amps if required, I also charge from my 4wd battery system that has twin batteries that can deliver 1500amps if required, quite a bit more than the 2 amp Mighty charger.:myday:
As @OF said, nothing to worry about here.:tup:

Now you're just rubbing it in :razz:
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
So I have had my Edge for a month or so and have been putting it through the paces.
I am very happy with how it works - basically it performs just like the F2 with the well-known improvements.

I have been able to get at least 60 minutes of use per battery charge (which translates to about 12+ full sessions).

I found the efficiency to be great for a session vape (similar to F2)
Clouds and taste are very good - again basically the same as F2.

I also got the new caps - which I think are much, much better than the old ones. They are easy to load and unload, hold almost twice as much as the old ones but also perform excellent with a half full cap if you still want to microdose. I rarely used the old caps, but find myself using the new ones a lot - if for nothing more than keeping the oven cleaner.

One thing I do not like as much is the new screens. I find them harder to clean, need to be cleaned more often and they bend out of shape easily. So I have been using the old screens and am much happier with them.

The 5 minute timer is exactly what I wanted, also love the vibration to lmk it is ready to go.
I haven’t even noticed the additional size unless it is sitting right next to the F2 - so basically no sacrifice for bigger battery.

Sorry, this is sort of a boring review - but I guess that is what HR would want - it is a great next generation for the Fury.
Anyone who wants an easy-to-use, reliable session vape at a great price will not be disappointed.

Just for giggles - I am attaching my testing notes. The first is very messy, the second is more organized.





I am glad that testing is over - it takes a lot of the fun out of vaping, but it is all for the love of vaping!:leaf:
 
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