Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

F

fastiron

Well-Known Member
mr_cfromcali said:
it makes the Deluxe a device that requires two hands to use
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Isn't this just ergonomics? Why can't I press buttons with the same hand I'm using to hold it? Position the momentary switch such that my thumb rests on it anyway. My ghost has a momentary switch I need to hold down and I do that with the same hand I use to hold the device. Same for box mods. Same for flashlights, remote controls, and my iphone really.
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
fastiron said:
Isn't this just ergonomics? Why can't I press buttons with the same hand I'm using to hold it? Position the momentary switch such that my thumb rests on it anyway. My ghost has a momentary switch I need to hold down and I do that with the same hand I use to hold the device. Same for box mods. Same for flashlights, remote controls, and my iphone really.
Click to expand...

The Flux Deluxe v1.0 is in production.

It's innovative, it's functional, and I think it works pretty damn well for v1.0. I'm eager to debug it and refine it, and I have a few improvements in mind for it, but this Jello® is pretty much set.

I'm not going to remake this device into something radically different.

I am also not going to go back and rehash every decision of its design.

This is what I am building at the moment. Just skip it if it isn't your thing.

Prophecy said:
@mr_cfromcali
Hat a short thought, why not use a switch with integradet LED instead the actual green standby LED? I dont know if this is possible. Would maybe a solution to bring the on off switch on the out side.

Here some examples https://eu.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/_/N-5g2h?keyword=bicolor
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Thanks, but I looked at these months ago, and the switch bodies are too long to work.

Cheers,
:leaf:
 
-dab8-

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
@mr_cfromcali I don’t think anyone is saying that you haven’t come up with an incredible design, but just as you consider tweaks, and have been admirably transparent throughout development, people offer suggestions for your consideration.

Like the glass button over the switch. Necessary? No. Just a neat little tweak for you to consider and then choose to utilize or discard at your discretion.
 
Moses Baca

Moses Baca

Colorado State Reformatory #8755
I love the simplicity. No bells or whistles to cause problems down the line. In fact, I'd like to see it even simpler. IMHO it doesn't need the power charging cord and extra hole in the body. Just pop the batteries out and use an external charger.

But no worries. I'm looking forward to getting mine. I'll use the heck out of it and then see if I think it needs any mods. I'm already assuming I'll end up buying another one sometime down the line anyway. My wife and I will each need one of our own, right?
 
analytika

analytika

Well-Known Member
-dab8- said:
@mr_cfromcali I don’t think anyone is saying that you haven’t come up with an incredible design...
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So far it's too derivative of @Pipes to pique my interest.

Same two design mistakes of doubling as a battery charger, and using pressure on the Dynavap as the switch, which means continuous exposure to the induction field.

The first increases size and reduces safety, the second stunts the experience with too rapid heating.

The potentiometer seems like a gimmick, little variation, nothing like you get moving the Dynavap in and out of the induction field.

Anyone who's used an induction heater with a separate switch, allowing free movement, slower and more even heating, will never look back.

I'll read the reviews, but don't yet see the case for this heater over the tried and true portside line of products, if you're willing to accept the above compromises in the first place. I trust @Pipes for his track record. Although I'm using a no-compromises DIY these days.
 
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mario

mario

Well-Known Member
I think something I have learned with vaping is that there is a fine line between simplicity and features.

For instance, we are all talking about a steel tube with a cap that clicks on the end. And we all love it. It's simple, doesn't break, is virtually impossible to destroy or have issues with. The FluxerHeater I think is the perfect match for that. It is simple and straight forward. No bells and whistles, no hard to reach spots and impossibly glued down plastic parts for us to worry about breaking. It is a box with a heater in it, just like the torches that we are all looking forward to getting rid of are just boxes with fuel in them.

Moral of the story. I think the simpler is better. I have a different custom made IH from someone else and while it is beautiful it has a fancy military style switch on it. Well that spring has started to get flaky and sometimes it snaps the switch into the off mode without me wanting it to. A nice cool feature to look at, but now has become a nusiance. I think that is why I was drawn to the FluxerHeater in the first place. Simplicity to match the simplicity of the Dynavap
 
Mono Loco

Mono Loco

Well-Known Member
Well that spring has started to get flaky and sometimes it snaps the switch into the off mode without me wanting it to.
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Well, switches do wear out. If it is accessible, though, can you not replace it easily enough? My skill set is not enough to design and engineer these these things, nor diagnose electronic failures, but if a failure is due to a mechanical issue that can be resolved with a simple swap-out of an accessible part, then I can repair most things. I bet the maker of your unit could guide you through the steps needed to replace that switch yourself ... it might be fun for you to do your own First Aide on you failing unit.
 
mario

mario

Well-Known Member
I am sure he could and I am almost fairly I could get the switch off myself and fix it. I don't think it is an electrical issue I just think it is a bad spring. I just haven't taken the time to do it yet and as such it is a little annoying. My draw to the Fluxer is that I won't have to even worry about that. Pressure switch activated, palm sized unit, no frills or anything. The one I have currently has leds and designs on the wood, so it looks amazing but really can't come with me anywhere haha.
 
analytika

analytika

Well-Known Member
Moses Baca said:
The glass button seems like it'll work great, I'm looking forward to your thoughts after trying it out. Nice idea @Abysmal Vapor!

Thanks again for the updates and pictures!

And LOL @pxl_jockey!
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@Pipes uses cork, I believe, to separate his pressure switch from the Dynavap contact point in the induction field. One of the reasons his design has significant depth.
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hi all,

I just wanted to let everyone know that I tested the effectiveness of the pyrex spacers last night, and the results make their own argument for adding them to the build. I recorded some video, but after editing it I realized that following pic was the best part, so here it is:

switch-compare-results-private.jpg


The switches were installed in the same test machine*, first one and then the other. For each test the Dynavap (with the stunt-double tip you see above) was held for 9-plus seconds of post-click heating. The picture above tells the tale better than my words will. I'll just add that the pyrex covered switch on the left is completely undamaged and 100% functional (the material visible under the glass is silicone adhesive, and it may be hard to tell from the picture but it is undamaged by the heat). The switch on the right, however, is toast. :rip:

I will be adding these inserts to the builds going forward. Any switches that need to be replaced will get the new version. The original switches will continue to work fine unless/until they are overheated past their more limited safety margin. If that happens, contact me, and we will determine the best way to proceed.

I have inserts on hand for the next batch, and just ordered 50 more, so this will be incorporated into the builds going forward.

Thanks again, @Abysmal Vapor and @Mono Loco , for your help with identifying and resolving this potential issue!

Other updates: Flux Deluxe batch #2 is underway. I began working on the battery packs last night, as that sub-assembly takes the most time to build. I hope to finish ~40 battery packs by Sunday night. If I can get those completed this weekend, I can work on the circuit boards next week, and hopefully begin shipping heaters from the second batch the week of January 21. That's the goal for now. That may be too optimistic, but we'll see how it plays out.

Finally, thanks for sharing your feedback. I may not always agree with it, but I do listen to it and think about it. :worms:

Cheers,
:leaf:

*I was asked via a PM why the thermal fuse permitted a 9 second post-click heat event? The answer is the test heater I used for this is unenclosed. I also bent the thermal fuse away from the coil:

Screen-Shot-2019-01-10-at-4-09-45-PM.png

(screen grab from otherwise boring video)

I hope that better establishes the context of the test.
 
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Abysmal Vapor

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@mr_cfromcali Glad it works out in your concept. Btw i just remembered about a thread our beloved member @KeroZen started a while back,about ultra thin glass. They are used as screen protectors for mobile phones and others and hold heat very well ,at least from the data.. ,but they might be too thin to insulate heat from the buttoon the other hand you might stack a few and i think it can be cut with ease using just regular scissors.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/o...lass-as-building-material-in-our-vapes.33570/
It is flexible and might not even require glueing to the button,just put a larger piece at the bottom of the spiral :)),but then one still would have to test durability longterm and at the end boro might be still a better choice
Tking0-1mmT-410x410mm-Roll-To-Roll-processing.jpg
 
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Excellent design work happening here. :bowdown:

The heat shield/spacer for the pressure switch is definitely a main functional part. Physical depth, material and contact area/pressure all play a role is heat speed and heat location. I was using wooden dowelling for a long time with little troubles. I now use a glass rhinestone stuck to the top of tach switch with a rubber tube to prevent it from being pushed sideways. The actual contact point is now quite small and totally heat resistant. Simple but effective. :science:



Keep up the good work!
 
Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I have and opens up other cans of worms.
Magnetic switches are affected by heat and did not want to go down that road. Although would be interesting to see if we could use that phenonium in our favor. Like when a magnet loses magnetism when vape temp is reached...
Optical sensing looked good but found the tube gets dirtier than people think and would actually end up causing the unit to stay on once the glass gets mucky.
The tach switch works fine for most but some do have caps that tend to get stuck with little pressure. Finding a solution for these caps might be a good idea. :2c:
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Pipes said:
Excellent design work happening here. :bowdown:

The heat shield/spacer for the pressure switch is definitely a main functional part. Physical depth, material and contact area/pressure all play a role is heat speed and heat location. I was using wooden dowelling for a long time with little troubles. I now use a glass rhinestone stuck to the top of tach switch with a rubber tube to prevent it from being pushed sideways. The actual contact point is now quite small and totally heat resistant. Simple but effective. :science:



Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...

Thank YOU! And thanks for stopping by.

:bowdown:

The feeling is definitely mutual ;)

maxvapor710 said:
Have you guys explored using hall sensors or infrared detection rather than a switch?
Click to expand...

Hi @maxvapor710 ,

Yes, I Iooked into non-tactile options. Hall sensors are great but even the smallest I could find was too bulky for my current build, unfortunately. Also added complexity where it wasn't necessary. For a bigger unit I agree - they might be ideal. Hall sensors are also "perfect" switches, so they do not require a debounce circuit. But shortest I could find was 30mm in length, and it was too big for the Deluxe...

I also looked at proximity sensors and such, but they have other issues - they detect below/outside the device as well as within the device, say, and that can mean unexpected things happening if you put your heater on a metal table.

I think the current tactile switch + pyrex button is going to be fantastic, honestly. I can't explain all of it right now - there's a "future feature" I'm working on - but these wafers all but bombproof the switch.

Here's another cool thing I found I can do:

The switches I use accept a range of matching, fitted, snap-on caps.

Some are made from the same 160°C capable polyamide material.

The shortest of these is about 1mm thick. The wafers adhere to these wonderfully:

IMG-7083-private.jpg



IMG-7083-2-private.jpg


Easy to build going forward. Very easy retrofit for all of the batch #1 owners. :tup:

This thing WORKS, too! :rockon::rockon::rockon:

:leaf:
 
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