Enail inconsistencies.

Enialis

Well-Known Member
I'm so frustrated over how much money I've flushed down the drain trying to get my enail to work consistently. I've mailed multiple coils back to vendors and finally got one from 710 so I'm pretty sure the issue isn't the coil.

I have the SZ crossing pid controller and absolutely cannot get consistent results with any combination of dishes or pearls. After I start inhaling I don't get vapor right away every time but when it starts I get a huge burst of vapor and then all of a sudden it stops.

Clearly something is going on with the airflow hitting the puddle of concentrate but I have no idea whats actually going on inside my banger because of the coil. I'm getting reclaim climbing up the side of my banger now, and it's a deep dish banger from 710coils with the quartz pi cap so now I don't know if I'm somehow blowing the concentrate out of the insert.

I'm totally at a loss, I have zero issues getting a good hit with a torched banger or my erig. I've wasted well over half a gram just in this session trying to get 1 strong hit like my erig. I haven't tried a torch hit in this banger yet since I don't know if that will damage it at all so.

I really can't afford to keep guessing and don't know what to do after investing hundreds of dollars into this setup. I'm running the crossing tech pid at 700 and the only thing i havent replaced is that. The next logical step would be to try an auber but I'm so confused as to why I can't get a hit in the first place that I don't know if that would solve the issue.

I can't tell if I'm expecting something I'm not going to get or if there's something wrong at this point. I can get a much bigger hit of a fraction of the material in my erig just fine. I'm worried that even with an insert my dabs are just to small for a normal rig and that I've wasted all of this money on something that will only work for bigger dabs. I don't really see my dabs pooling around the terp pearls like in my erig it's more like there just scattering around the place.

At this point I'm just ranting in frustration. If anyone has any idea what I can do I really need some help.
 

WelshBrok

Well-Known Member
Don’t know whether it’s differences in controller as I have the auber but I’ve not set mine higher than 500f max, usually more 420-460f. Also I let it heat soak for 7 - 10 minutes.
If you are using an insert I’d take it out and get used to the setup without first and then reintroduce it later as I’ve found the smaller surface area in the inserts + pulling to hard can cause it to splash out of the insert.

edit: thinking about it 700 on the controller for me would be like 600 dish temp where I’d want it to ideally be around 380 (350 to melt, 450+ I think terpene loss) so unless it is a difference in controller I think that’s far too hot

puffco peak pro set to 570 maxes out around 500 dish temp. The original puffco peak highest temp was 600, so say highest dish temp 530, so you have your enail set up to about 100 degrees hotter than the hottest setting on the peak
86016CF3-812C-4DDA-A579-5DEFEE17FBF3.jpeg
 
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JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Enialis do you have an IR gun? To get an idea of what the actual temp is on the floor of your banger? Could be an issue with the thermocouple in the SZ crossing PID.

I like a floor temp of ~465F, and I up-temp to 490F (although I play around with temps between 445F and 515F and use down and up temp scripts)

I save a different "offset" for each coil that I use. For example, my primary 25mm axial coil (710coils) runs with an offset of about -10F (floor temp is 10F cooler than actual temp), but my 30mm axial coils require an offset in excess of -40F. Every coil is different. And if you can't save offsets, then you need to adjust the temp on the display accordingly based on the knowledge of how your PID reads. (I'm surprised though if it was just a coil/offset issue that at 700F you wouldn't be getting lots of vapour)

Edit: also maybe post some pics of your setup, maybe some close-up shots of how your coil is connected to your banger; the fit is relatively tight?
 

Enialis

Well-Known Member
@WelshBrok h I took my inserts out and was able to lower it down to 530° on the pid, but there's little difference between that and 700° in terms of vapor production, and reclaim is building up in the neck fairly quickly. I'm also not getting any effects from what I do inhale.
It doesn't seem like I'm literally sucking the concentrate up and down the stem, which makes me wonder if the vapor is so cool that it's condensing right away.
Checked again and the same amount of material (25-50mg, or 0.02-0.05g) produces the desired results in my erig and torch banger with the same inserts.

@JCat I don't have an ir gun right now. I'm actually on my way to the dispensary because I went through 2 grams of concentrate last night experimenting while frustrated and still had to switch to the torch and erig to go to sleep so I might check to see if they have one at the hardware store.
Also, this pid either can't show me anything other than the set temp and won't allow me to do anything but change the temp unless I'm mistaken. So I can't check or change of pid settings or offsets like you mentioned.
I was planning on getting something like a terpometer or similar because I thought they were more accurate than ir guns for this stuff.
The fit on the coil isn't completely snug but it's much tighter than the ones I returned to a different vendor.

When I get back home ill post some pictures of my setup. Its a 710coils deep dish banger with an opaque bottom, quartz pi cap, and ruby pearls at the moment. The inserts are opaque quartz and sic with sic and ruby pearls that both work as desired with torched uptemp dabs and cold start insert drops.
The one thing that stands out is that the torch banger is the same as the enail except its not a deep dish, so I can blow the pearls around.
In the deep dish banger the tip of the cap isn't far enough down to blow the pearls around, and when they do I get the bursts of vapor.
Since it seems like there may be a connection between the airflow not blowing the pearls around and lack of vapor production i wonder if the carb cap is to short for the deep dish banger, since it works on the non deep dish torch banger.

I just got to the dispensary so ill get some pictures up when I get home. Maybe someone here has some input.
 
Enialis,
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WelshBrok

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@WelshBrok h I took my inserts out and was able to lower it down to 530° on the pid, but there's little difference between that and 700° in terms of vapor production, and reclaim is building up in the neck fairly quickly. I'm also not getting any effects from what I do inhale.
It doesn't seem like I'm literally sucking the concentrate up and down the stem, which makes me wonder if the vapor is so cool that it's condensing right away.
Checked again and the same amount of material (25-50mg, or 0.02-0.05g) produces the desired results in my erig and torch banger with the same inserts.
Weird, I have basically exactly the same setup, 25mm deep dish opaque bottom banger and a couple ruby pearls (and now the ruby insert) but with an auber 300a (i think) controller. The controller you have says it does 150w so it should be powerful enough. Does the controller work well with other things/nails/ whatever you originally got it for?

Also I can move the pearls around fairly easily in the deep dish with the standard pi cap. I have the clear slitted quartz inserts and I don’t really use them as it just seemed better dabbing direct off the banger but now I’ve got the ruby insert that’s mostly all I’m using (I don’t think the ruby would fix your issue though as I was already getting decent low temp dabs off the banger alone)

edit: also agree with what jcat said (who also knows tonnes more than me about pids/controllers :lol:). I think you need some way to check the temp in the banger to make sure the controller is working correctly (assuming as you’ve gone through a few coils it’s more likely controller than coil)
 
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WelshBrok,
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strech

Well-Known Member
710coils deep dish banger with an opaque bottom, quartz pi cap, and ruby pearl
I have this same set up. Usually keep my controller in the 400-450 range. Using the pi cap you'll have to point it right to get the pearl to move. If you want it to really spin you'll need a spinner cap.

Have you tried plugging in to a different outlet? My guess is your controller is malfunctioning if not user error.


Edit to ask. How are you keeping the coil on the banger?
 
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Enialis

Well-Known Member
@WelshBrok the only thing I have to test it with is a 20mm barrel coil and slanted banger which i no longer have a carb cap for but it performed much worse than this even after tightening it to a perfect fit. This pid came with that in a bundle that was under $150 and the vendor ultimately gave me a refund because of how loose and bent the coil came.

I also recently tried two 30mm coil and banger sets from the same vendor that I had to return because they had hot and cold spots in the banger and dish that prevented vaping without tilting the concentrate into one of the Hotspot.

This is all on the same controller im using with this 710coils setup. This setup doesn't have any weird issues besides just not being as efficient or producing as much vapor as my other setups.

I'm going to just go ahead and buy an auber. Afaik there's nothing I can check or change on this controller besides the set temp and its the only common denominator and item that hasn't been replaced yet. Ill need one for when I get my flowerpot anyway, so maybe this will be the excuse I need to order that whole kit.

@JCat do you have any recommendations on a temp gun? I went to the hardware store after the dispensary but they only measure up to about 550° and couldn't be used closer than 17 inches.

I saw some on Amazon that I can get by Friday that have a wider range and can be used closer up with all the bells and whistles but they also cost a lot more. What features are relevant for measuring off of quartz/sic/gemstone/ti so I don't go overboard, some of them cost enough that I could get a purpose built dab thermometer if they are more than a gimmick.

I'll be home shortly and send a picture but if you have the same setup with no issues I'm going to assume this cheap pid is whats been the issue the whole time and caused me to return so many items.
 
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JCat

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Accessory Maker
I use a Canadian Tire Mastercraft brand IR gun. I don’t think it’s rated for use up close either, but it nonetheless works well up close. (I hold it maybe an inch above the top of my banger and I get accurate readings that are inline with what I get with a thermocouple on the dab surface)

I actually have 2 completely different mastercraft ones, and they both work fine (although the more expensive one with adjustable emissivity is a little more accurate/stable)

both I got on sale at like 70% off so they were $20-$30 each
 
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Enialis

Well-Known Member
I use a Canadian Tire Mastercraft brand IR gun. I don’t think it’s rated for use up close either, but it nonetheless works well up close. (I hold it maybe an inch above the top of my banger and I get accurate readings that are inline with what I get with a thermocouple on the dab surface)

I actually have 2 completely different mastercraft ones, and they both work fine (although the more expensive one with adjustable emissivity is a little more accurate/stable)

both I got on sale at like 70% off so they were $20-$30 each
Okay sounds good I'll go ahead and grab one tonight then. Any idea where I can get an auber? I emailed newvape/cannabis hardware because I can't tell if the on they have is the rdk-300b v2 with the second generation firmware and boost mode.

If is the newest version ill just get it from them because I can't find any other retailer through Google unless you have a recommendation.
 
Enialis,

strech

Well-Known Member
I don't know how much the auber is but 710's disorderly controller is nice for not much over $100.
 
strech,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
I don't know how much the auber is but 710's disorderly controller is nice for not much over $100.
Auber is $130 and ill be using it for other things down the road or I would have gone that route in the beginning if I was only going to use it as an enail.

Jcat is making me one of his enails so I won't be using whatever for my enail for very long and it'll be either for my flowerpot, rosin press or some other project so the aubers extra features and programmability are the only reason I'm considering getting one now instead of just waiting until thats finished.
 
Enialis,

damm

Well-Known Member
I was looking over this thread and was curious about this PID controller. So I found the website of the controller, and It looks like Chinese trash. They claim to make the Sai Atomizer and the Klin, which does not seem likely unless Atmos or Humboltvapes uses SZ Crossing for building their atomizers.

This is possible, but that controller doesn't impress me. I've had 2 Auber PID Controllers working for over 4 years now without a problem.
 

Enialis

Well-Known Member
I was looking over this thread and was curious about this PID controller. So I found the website of the controller, and It looks like Chinese trash. They claim to make the Sai Atomizer and the Klin, which does not seem likely unless Atmos or Humboltvapes uses SZ Crossing for building their atomizers.

This is possible, but that controller doesn't impress me. I've had 2 Auber PID Controllers working for over 4 years now without a problem.
You are correct on both accounts. It is indeed the chinese company that makes all of the humboldtvapetech, divine tribe, and other products some vendors here sell. And it does appear that this specific product of theirs is Chinese crap.

My daily drivers for wax for years have been there wax pens and erigs. I own almost all of their products, even went out of my way to find and buy there sic insert (which looks and feels higher quality than the brand name ones I've seen with rough finishes and tool marks, and works amazingly) from 510mod here because of how high quality everything else has been from them.

So naturally I assumed their enail would be good to, and in reality it is technically working just fine i suppose, its just that the erigs or 510 atomizers made by them are so flavorful and produce such big clouds off of such small amounts of material that in comparison this seems terrible and wasteful.
 
Enialis,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
I have the pictures ready. I totally forgot. Is there hosting on this site or do I need to find somewhere? I've spent the past 30 minutes trying to figure out how to do an attachment with my post.
 
Enialis,

710yota

Have you heard about the boom on Mizar 5?
I have the pictures ready. I totally forgot. Is there hosting on this site or do I need to find somewhere? I've spent the past 30 minutes trying to figure out how to do an attachment with my post.

You can indeed use this site for hosting, see this thread or click on the notice that should be on top of all pages about image attachments. https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/image-attachments.50036/

Otherwise you can use the hosting service of your choice (imgur, imgbb, etc.) then click on the little photo on top of the posting window, copy the image link in and you should be golden pony boy :spliff:

As far as your controller goes its the usual Chinese product, sometimes you get lucky, everything works and sometimes not so much:shrug:. SZ crossing is the manufacturer for HVT and Divine tribe but both of those products are designed by Americans and held to QC requirements by those designers. For generic e-nail controllers, that might not be the case. I would definitely pick up either the auber your looking for or the disorderly conduction controller 710coils offers. Of course once you get the magic our friendly JCat is cooking up for you, you should be more then set controller wise!
 
710yota,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
You can indeed use this site for hosting, see this thread or click on the notice that should be on top of all pages about image attachments. https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/image-attachments.50036/

Otherwise you can use the hosting service of your choice (imgur, imgbb, etc.) then click on the little photo on top of the posting window, copy the image link in and you should be golden pony boy :spliff:

As far as your controller goes its the usual Chinese product, sometimes you get lucky, everything works and sometimes not so much:shrug:. SZ crossing is the manufacturer for HVT and Divine tribe but both of those products are designed by Americans and held to QC requirements by those designers. For generic e-nail controllers, that might not be the case. I would definitely pick up either the auber your looking for or the disorderly conduction controller 710coils offers. Of course once you get the magic our friendly JCat is cooking up for you, you should be more then set controller wise!
Haha yea, I didn't even bother shopping around or trying any other enails. I knew right from the beginning based on past experience and coming from the world of perfect temp controlled 510 devices that I wouldn't be able to settle for anything less advanced, and jcat is the only one who can deliver.

Obviously the omron controller he uses will solve the issues im having with the cheap Chinese unit, but the real magic is in the scripts. I should be able to control the unit from my phone or computer to leave it in a standby temp while not using, and the run a script after loading for the perfect melt all the way up to a perfect uptemp dab and then back down again after I've hit it all so I can to save product in between hits instead of it running at full temp and slowly cooking off all the flavor and canmabinoids while I'm holding in my hits and so I don't cook the leftover waxes and lipids onto my inserts and pearls when the dab is actually finished.

So basically going to use it to mimic how my programmed 510 mod boxes or erigs are set to do perfect uptempt dabs without ever wasting or burning any concentrate since it's so expensive in IL.

The pieces below are what I'm using and not able to blow the pearls around much with still. I thought the adapter I ordered would make it so the banger was level on the glass beaker but it was for a 60° pipe so I'm not really using that even though it's the one I bought for this if I can find an adapter or just order another banger once this is sorted out.

The matrix clone has the best airflow/vacuum combination for moving the pearls but it's still not great unless I pick it up and angle it. It's also the only one that gives off a decent amount of vapor but this controller doesn't have a fast enough response time to to a proper uptemp or coldstart to get a faster hit.

The little silicon pipe is the easiest one to finish all of the vapor in one hit with but it also makes very little vapor to begin with and creates almost no vacuum to move the pearls of create vapor.

In the last picture I tilted the coil to one side in case that helps you see if thats to big off a gap, I couldn't get the camera to focus on it topdown to show the minor looseness any other way, but if it's tilted that makes me wonder about hot or cold spots and if the walls being heated uneven has anything to do with the insert drops.

It seems like I need a specific combination of the right volume of pipe with the right amount of draw to create the perfect low pressure environment for vaporization, even the 6 inch version of the matrix sidecar might do the trick.
 
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Enialis,
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JCat

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Accessory Maker
@Enialis , I will comment, that the way it will work with a quartz banger (and possibly insert), is going to be different then your standard 510 device.

The key difference between the 2 is how fast the small mass of the buckets (quartz, Ti, SiC) in 510 mods results in much faster heat up and cool down times; this comes of course at the expensive of a stable temperature with the 510 mods. A Quartz banger will retain the heat much better, and be much more stable, but will also be less responsive, and then even more so as you add inserts with different properties (it takes longer to heat a ruby/sapphire, but then it drops less from air and your cool dab being dropped on the surface)

I find the extra thermal mass helps you get your dab in that exact window you want it, once you figure out your temp curves etc and what you are going for, as it is not going to shoot way over or way below very quickly.

The only 510 based device I've ever found really accurate enough for my liking (where you 100% never burn/overheat, and don't have issues with waste), is the M22, as it is unbelievably responsive, and quite accurate (if you have the TCR dialed in right). All other devices I found it was either too hot, or too much waste and tough to gauge (although they were "ok" for portable)

With my FC E-Nail, I'm currently liking up-temps from 455 to 490 (floor temp and screen temp with the configured offset in this profile), as well as I've been enjoying some quite flavourful dabs doing up-temps from low 300's up to the low 500's. ... when doing the large swing up-temps, I make sure to overshoot, and then immediately drop-back down, so that it quickly gets the insert/floor temp where I want it.
 
JCat,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
@Enialis , I will comment, that the way it will work with a quartz banger (and possibly insert), is going to be different then your standard 510 device.

The key difference between the 2 is how fast the small mass of the buckets (quartz, Ti, SiC) in 510 mods results in much faster heat up and cool down times; this comes of course at the expensive of a stable temperature with the 510 mods. A Quartz banger will retain the heat much better, and be much more stable, but will also be less responsive, and then even more so as you add inserts with different properties (it takes longer to heat a ruby/sapphire, but then it drops less from air and your cool dab being dropped on the surface)

I find the extra thermal mass helps you get your dab in that exact window you want it, once you figure out your temp curves etc and what you are going for, as it is not going to shoot way over or way below very quickly.

The only 510 based device I've ever found really accurate enough for my liking (where you 100% never burn/overheat, and don't have issues with waste), is the M22, as it is unbelievably responsive, and quite accurate (if you have the TCR dialed in right). All other devices I found it was either too hot, or too much waste and tough to gauge (although they were "ok" for portable)

With my FC E-Nail, I'm currently liking up-temps from 455 to 490 (floor temp and screen temp with the configured offset in this profile), as well as I've been enjoying some quite flavourful dabs doing up-temps from low 300's up to the low 500's. ... when doing the large swing up-temps, I make sure to overshoot, and then immediately drop-back down, so that it quickly gets the insert/floor temp where I want it.

Right, I wasn't really expecting the near instant heat up and cool down times of the smaller units, but more so the control and customizability they have.

I've got the Sai, sequoia, dtv4, and m22 (atomizer only) and in wax pen mode id definitely agree with you, the lack of a proper carb and directional airflow creates a lot of waste unless you use a wire coil and go high temp.

but with a bucket coil and bubbler attachment or bottomless banger with a real carb cap running powered by a dna mod controlled through the dev console I've found them to be the most efficient way to use wax yet and only a slight downgrade from the m22 in terms of flavor and ease of use, but you completely sacrifice all portability.

Thats the setup I'm coming from and the level of control and type of uptemp dab i want and your enail is the only thing that comes close. Built in scripts instead of fiddling with macro software will be a gamechanger

I only have the m22 atomizer right now to swap out for one of the other in this setup and have been kind of saving it for when the rest of my kit gets here to get the best impression. Are you using it on a dna250 mod or do you already have to m22 control tower?

I'm curious how much better the full kit will be, because I chose to get the the enail setup from you and 710coil instead of getting the entire m22 kit since i was getting the impression i wouldn't get mine at the end of March if there was a wait list like I was told so I'm hoping I made the right choice.
The idea was to get the most efficient device for micro dabbing that wasn't affected by the vape mail ban since I can't get coils for my HVT setup right now and felt like the safer option would be to go with a traditional enail since there seems to be some uncertainty as to how quickly I'd be able to actually get a full m22 kit even though it probably would have been perfect for what I want to do.

I'll eventually have both anyways though once I run out of sequoia coils and have to buy a new portable.

Edit: I tries attaching pictures as files on the bottom of the reply box and the insert picture thing at the top and neither showed up, any ideas?
 
Enialis,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
@WelshBrok @JCat Okay i got my pictures working. Why am I getting so much vapor out of my matrix clone but none out of my silicone or glass beaker from the same amount of material? My core/hyperion erig produces more vapor as well. 20210409_171358.jpg20210409_171312.jpg20210409_171251.jpg20210409_171141.jpg

Also, is that gap in the picture of the banger and coil look okay? One full side doesn't look like its making contact with the banger?

@strech do you have any recommendations on a spinner cap online or through on of the community vendors? I havent seen any which is why I settled for the pi.
 
Enialis,

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
The rig does matter as far as air flow. All my setups work, but there are definitely large differences.

Looking at the picture of your coil/banger, yes, that gap is definitely too much. It should be snug (but not tight). I tighten my coils by grabbing the whole coil in my hand/palm (so that I'm holding all the wraps), and then I twist gently clockwise to tighten or counter-clockwise to loosen. After getting it right you may need to fiddle a little with individual wraps to get it nicely lined up.

My bangers are tight enough that before clipping I could hold it by the coil upside down and the banger wouldn't just fall out (I sure wouldn't shake it though!) It shouldn't be so tight that you can't rotate it easily (at least counter clockwise ... rotating it clockwise will cause the coil to tighten some and so can be difficult ... this can be over come by again holding the whole coil while rotating)

Make sure the bottom part of the coil is good and flat as well, and that all parts of it are making good contact with the coil once clipped (this looks ok from what I can tell though ... you have it clipped right)

As far as the Pi cap ... I have 3 different 25mm ones, and 2x30 mm ones, and they can all make my ruby pearls spin in my insert. I only use 1 ruby pearl though. I find more doesn't help, as one is enough to help distribute the concentrate, and more just makes cleanup worse and taste degrade faster (as the pearls really get some minor buildup before anything else does ... nothing that an ISO wipe doesn't fix in 10 sec. when cool, but still :) ) The carb caps do make a big difference in how the banger hits as well, and I find that I have preferred caps based on rigs as the caps help control the air flow quite a bit, and there is quite a bit of variation between each, from length of tip, to size of the ball, and size of openings.

Hope that helps!

Edit: and for the M22, you might want to try setting up an AF mod. Even in wattage mode, it's so responsive that there is nothing like it as far as being able to "manually" temp control it as well ... when you let go of the heat, it almost instantaneously starts cooling, and when you hit the button again, it almost instantaneously starts heating ... and with the proper wattage (I think I'm at 27W right now), you won't get any burning/scorching even in wattage mode with even just a little practice. I'd venture that you can get more accurate temp control manually with a wattage only M22 then you can with any other bucket based TC 510 device. Now that being said, I never liked dabbing off of Ti, so I haven't tried the Ti buckets. I'm also using all flower rosin, so coil options don't work for me.
 
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JCat,

PPN

Volute of Vapor
from the same amount of material? My core/hyperion erig produces more vapor as well
Which set up do you use? Coil based technology definitively produces bigger thicker clouds but only cause plant matter is also vaporized, with banger/ quartz buckets/ sic you can let that adjusting the temperature perfectly, and you wipe it out off the bucket after each dab. When I begun with enails I didn't understood, like you, what exactly an enail bring us on the table: healthy dabs!
 
PPN,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
Which set up do you use? Coil based technology definitively produces bigger thicker clouds but only cause plant matter is also vaporized, with banger/ quartz buckets/ sic you can let that adjusting the temperature perfectly, and you wipe it out off the bucket after each dab. When I begun with enails I didn't understood, like you, what exactly an enail bring us on the table: healthy dabs!
For that stuff right now the ti and sic bucket sic for the sequoia (sai+) and the erig that takes the same coils. They use ceramic discs as a heating element for the bucket the exact same way that peaks do. I believe they are just actually branded SoC erigs using peak pcbs left over from the peak pro, as mine has wireless charging enabled which was never a listed feature on this at all (found out by accident).

The rig does matter as far as air flow. All my setups work, but there are definitely large differences.

Looking at the picture of your coil/banger, yes, that gap is definitely too much. It should be snug (but not tight). I tighten my coils by grabbing the whole coil in my hand/palm (so that I'm holding all the wraps), and then I twist gently clockwise to tighten or counter-clockwise to loosen. After getting it right you may need to fiddle a little with individual wraps to get it nicely lined up.

My bangers are tight enough that before clipping I could hold it by the coil upside down and the banger wouldn't just fall out (I sure wouldn't shake it though!) It shouldn't be so tight that you can't rotate it easily (at least counter clockwise ... rotating it clockwise will cause the coil to tighten some and so can be difficult ... this can be over come by again holding the whole coil while rotating)

Make sure the bottom part of the coil is good and flat as well, and that all parts of it are making good contact with the coil once clipped (this looks ok from what I can tell though ... you have it clipped right)

As far as the Pi cap ... I have 3 different 25mm ones, and 2x30 mm ones, and they can all make my ruby pearls spin in my insert. I only use 1 ruby pearl though. I find more doesn't help, as one is enough to help distribute the concentrate, and more just makes cleanup worse and taste degrade faster (as the pearls really get some minor buildup before anything else does ... nothing that an ISO wipe doesn't fix in 10 sec. when cool, but still :) ) The carb caps do make a big difference in how the banger hits as well, and I find that I have preferred caps based on rigs as the caps help control the air flow quite a bit, and there is quite a bit of variation between each, from length of tip, to size of the ball, and size of openings.

Hope that helps!

Edit: and for the M22, you might want to try setting up an AF mod. Even in wattage mode, it's so responsive that there is nothing like it as far as being able to "manually" temp control it as well ... when you let go of the heat, it almost instantaneously starts cooling, and when you hit the button again, it almost instantaneously starts heating ... and with the proper wattage (I think I'm at 27W right now), you won't get any burning/scorching even in wattage mode with even just a little practice. I'd venture that you can get more accurate temp control manually with a wattage only M22 then you can with any other bucket based TC 510 device. Now that being said, I never liked dabbing off of Ti, so I haven't tried the Ti buckets. I'm also using all flower rosin, so coil options don't work for me.

Hey thanks for all of that info and for pointing it out, I'm going to ask Shane if I should tighten it myself or send it back for him to do. I could have sworn he used to tighten them to each banger himself because that was partially why I went with 710coils and I don't want to break it if he's willing to. The last coil I had to tighten is bent in such a way from tightening it that its the slanting of the coil holding it on and not that I was ever able to tighten the loops properly. Thats a huge bummer 4 different coils this year all from different vendors have been this loose.
 
Enialis,
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Enialis

Well-Known Member
Can you guys check out the posts I left here and the pictures? I'm on mobile at the moment but when I get to the computer I'll copy and paste into this thread for completeness.

Post in thread '710 coils' https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/710-coils.29284/post-1560790

Shane fixed my coil issues but the issues with the carb cap, oil in the neck, and pearl not moving equaling no vapor or persisting even though I went out and bought a temperature gun and everything seems to be working correctly. My auber is on its way but I did some more testing and research and think this might have more to so with the airflow in the banger and cap and the glass not creating a vacuum than it does the rest of the setup.

I'm bleeding an extra $100 every week in concentrates from the dispensary until I can either figure this out or give up and buy a peak to use in the mean time. I've seen and used other setups before and after talking to you guys theres just no way I should be getting more medicated and better flavor from 0.02g in and erig va 0.1g in this enail.
 
Enialis,

strech

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@strech do you have any recommendations on a spinner cap online or through on of the community vendors
Sorry I missed this. I bought my cap at a local shop. It was cheap and more a novelty buy. Came with a banger and some glass pears.
 
strech,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
Sorry I missed this. I bought my cap at a local shop. It was cheap and more a novelty buy. Came with a banger and some glass pears.
What type of cap is it? Do you mind describing it or taking a picture? All of the caps i like that look like the should for sure work or at least give me the option to by multiple to cover all of my bases are from sites that I've never heard of. Dabbing warehouse and dabbing specialists specifically for the dhgate Gordo knockoffs. It seems like the same website under two different names so idk whats up with that or I'd have ordered since they are so cheap.

I don't really have any local shops and no one there knows what the hell an enail is they think I'm talking about a peak. What are some trusted online stores that aren't brand name or are cheap brand name besides thick ass glass? It doesn't look like anyone in the community has any in stock right now either rcctools has one dual nozzle spinner but I'd be settling on one like that not knowing if it would work and its American made so not cheap its a flat top and id prefer a bubble.

Since the pi cap didn't work for me I think I need something with a wider air flow. I would prefer a bubble style that had riptide or multi channel airflow to be able to aim and spin with the same cap and something with more airflow restriction than the pi cap. Mine was awfully narrow tipped and I couldn't really feel any restriction on the airflow.
 
Enialis,
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