Maryland Vapor

Well-Known Member
Any ideas why dynavap offer the BB3 and 2020 tip, but with non captive cap?

No idea why, but it prompted me to buy the BB3 vs the M during the recent sale. I never found anyone speaking positively about the captive cap.
 

grogazola

Well-Known Member
No idea why, but it prompted me to buy the BB3 vs the M during the recent sale. I never found anyone speaking positively about the captive cap.

Wait I thought the captive caps were loved. What’s everyone’s opinion on the new captive caps? I have two in my cart right now...
 
grogazola,

TheThriftDrifter

Land of the long vapor cloud
Anyone use hemp seed oil to condition their hydravongs? I can’t find any dynawax as it’s sold out everywhere near me and I want to pick up something for my new HydraVonGs today...
I don't think I would recommend cold pressed hemp seed oil as a finish/protective coating. Mostly on account of the greenish tinge it imparts to light colored woods.

It's quite easy to make your own wood conditioner, gently heat a small amount of neutral flavored cooking oil in a saucepan on a stove top, then add small amounts of bees wax at a time until you get the consistency that suits your needs.
To test the consistency place a few drops of the hot mix on a small plate that has been in the fridge/freezer(which will roughly show how hard the balm is going turn out)


Wait I thought the captive caps were loved. What’s everyone’s opinion on the new captive caps? I have two in my cart right now...
If you prefer a more open airflow, the captive caps are ok. Personally if I were buying caps, it would be the regular/standard ones.

You could always try one of each. :spliff:
 

grogazola

Well-Known Member
Thank you everyone! I found a little block of beeswax at the health food store for a dollar! :) I will place it in a mason jar and run it under hot water until I can spread it.

I have a little sweet almond oil to add a few drops to help the “spreadability”. In the future I’ll make sure to have mineral oil or hemp seed oil to mix in with my melted beeswax.


It's quite easy to make your own wood conditioner, gently heat a small amount of neutral flavored cooking oil in a saucepan on a stove top, then add small amounts of bees wax at a time until you get the consistency that suits your needs.
To test the consistency place a few drops of the hot mix on a small plate that has been in the fridge/freezer(which will roughly show how hard the balm is going turn out)

Thank you @TheThriftDrifter :) I was planning of just putting pure beeswax on. Will this harden and create problems for my orings and hydravong wood?
 
Last edited:
grogazola,

TheThriftDrifter

Land of the long vapor cloud
I've never tried pure beeswax straight on wood, it might be quite difficult to apply and spread but I can't see how a thin coating would cause too much trouble.

Sweet almond oil sound like a good mix! I often add a few drops of essential oil to my balms, tea tree being my favorite.
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
Thank you everyone! I found a little block of beeswax at the health food store for a dollar! :) I will place it in a mason jar and run it under hot water until I can spread it.

I have a little sweet almond oil to add a few drops to help the “spreadability”. In the future I’ll make sure to have mineral oil or hemp seed oil to mix in with my melted beeswax.




Thank you @TheThriftDrifter :) I was planning of just putting pure beeswax on. Will this harden and create problems for my orings and hydravong wood?
I never put anything in my og nonavong. I’ve always thought the “dark wood” felt and looked plasticky. Never thought it would even absorb much. Still looks the same as day one
 

grogazola

Well-Known Member
I never put anything in my og nonavong. I’ve always thought the “dark wood” felt and looked plasticky. Never thought it would even absorb much. Still looks the same as day one

True! How long you had yours? I’ve seen pics of the hydravongs cracking. Not sure if this is as widespread on nonavongs....
 
grogazola,

notams

toke down Babylon
RE: captive caps

I prefer the old, non captive cap. I never had a cap fly off or fall off - once. Ever. But, once DV 'fixed' a non-existent problem they introduced an entirely new, much bigger problem - the rattling, noisy, loose annoyance of a captive cap. (btw - I see no airflow difference)

Anyhow... Get a pair of smooth* needle nose pliers* and gently squeeze the indented detents smooth. Then squeeze the holy hell out of the smooth-sided 'fixed' cap back to the 'correct' oval shape. It'll reshape beautifully and once torched a dozen times you won't even see the little indents very much. Voila! A captive cap converted to old school. I've done it thrice due do no low temp caps in any option other than captive for sale anywhere.

* so not to scratch
 

Maryland Vapor

Well-Known Member
RE: captive caps

I prefer the old, non captive cap. I never had a cap fly off or fall off - once. Ever. But, once DV 'fixed' a non-existent problem they introduced an entirely new, much bigger problem - the rattling, noisy, loose annoyance of a captive cap. (btw - I see no airflow difference)

Anyhow... Get a pair of smooth* needle nose pliers* and gently squeeze the indented detents smooth. Then squeeze the holy hell out of the smooth-sided 'fixed' cap back to the 'correct' oval shape. It'll reshape beautifully and once torched a dozen times you won't even see the little indents very much. Voila! A captive cap converted to old school. I've done it thrice due do no low temp caps in any option other than captive for sale anywhere.

* so not to scratch
Or, do like I did, and just bypass the captive cap.never had any problems with the original style of cap.


Oooppppps. Did I say that out loud?
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
RE: captive caps

I prefer the old, non captive cap. I never had a cap fly off or fall off - once. Ever. But, once DV 'fixed' a non-existent problem they introduced an entirely new, much bigger problem - the rattling, noisy, loose annoyance of a captive cap. (btw - I see no airflow difference)

Anyhow... Get a pair of smooth* needle nose pliers* and gently squeeze the indented detents smooth. Then squeeze the holy hell out of the smooth-sided 'fixed' cap back to the 'correct' oval shape. It'll reshape beautifully and once torched a dozen times you won't even see the little indents very much. Voila! A captive cap converted to old school. I've done it thrice due do no low temp caps in any option other than captive for sale anywhere.

* so not to scratch

My 2020M came with the CAPTIVE cap, and the indents grab in the right spot on the TIP, but on all my Titanium tips, the heat sink grooves are further apart, so the captive cap always slips down a millimeter or so, and I’m sure at times my load then slips down as I insert into an IH, then a water rig. I may go back to NO CAPTIVE, as my regular cap slides on and off one of my titanium tips nicely, and never slides down. I was HOPING, there would more airflow with the captive cap, making it worth putting up with the slippage, but I don’t sense any noticeable airflow increase.
 

grogazola

Well-Known Member
What is this stuff? My new darkwood hydravong has a ton of it on the insides. Been scrubbing it with a few q-tips but there’s still more... My new lightwood Hydravong has only a little of this stuff but my darkwood has tons of it.

Is this tung oil or linseed oil? I worried it was wood stain but that makes little sense...

 
Last edited:
grogazola,

almost there

Well-Known Member
What is this stuff? My new darkwood hydravong has a ton of it on the insides. Been scrubbing it with a few q-tips but there’s still more... My new lightwood Hydravong has only a little of this stuff but my darkwood has tons of it.

Is this tung oil or linseed oil? I worried it was wood stain but that makes little sense...

My guess would be dynawax, your stem looks nice and polished with it
 
almost there,
  • Like
Reactions: grogazola

Walrus88

Member
What is this stuff? My new darkwood hydravong has a ton of it on the insides. Been scrubbing it with a few q-tips but there’s still more... My new lightwood Hydravong has only a little of this stuff but my darkwood has tons of it.

Is this tung oil or linseed oil? I worried it was wood stain but that makes little sense...

Yea no doubt that'll be some kind of wax/oil they have treated it with to the preserve the wood. Most likely their own Dynawax.
 
Walrus88,

Smokey McVape

Well-Known Member
Wait I thought the captive caps were loved. What’s everyone’s opinion on the new captive caps? I have two in my cart right now...
Captive cap = whispy vapor as the cap is a looser fit with the lugs holding the cap in place on the tip.
Standard cap = tighter friction fitting cap with better vapor production.
My personal observations only.
 
Last edited:

FlyingLow

Team NO SLEEP!
@FlyingLow , airflow on Assassin so open wide I had to adapt—different tokes.😊


Sweet! How are you liking it?

I LOVE the open airflow and big deep hits! But there is a balance.
I prefer my Assassin with an OG condenser tube as it adds just the right amount of restriction. Without the condenser tube, it is too wide even for my preferences.
I keep the carb closed or 90% covered during my draws, and flute it a few times about halfway through a drag and at the end or a draw.
 
FlyingLow,
  • Like
Reactions: stark1

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Look, Ma! 01002

Whining away my angst waiting for USPS to deliver (past few days) I console my needs, and my energy, drilling
A home-made bubbly. MUAHAHA


 
Last edited:
Top Bottom