herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Man aren't those moments the best!? Unexpectedly high yields are sure to make the budding (pun intended) extract artist's day!
Concentrates for Noobs - Q&A
- Thread starter FlyingLow
- Start date
spoutti
Well-Known Member
Hey guys. I think my question's answer might fit in this tread as well as the persei one. Can winterized qwet give thinner, as potent, less white clouds than un-winterized? I loaded some of my new winterized qwet in my new herc sr74x and I cant match my sr71 thickness, whiter clouds I get at 6.6v. I can handle about 4-5sec of vapor production at 6.6v on my sr71, giving me a most satsifying cloud, while I have no limit at 8.4v on my sr74. I think the whiter clouds are due to the waxes, but there might be something else..
yea are you digging puretane better? because I will likely make a switch after my last capital order.... 1/3 of my cans had 100g of gas missing from it and the can had sticky "ive been playing in the tane run" fingerprints all over it. ken said he would refund it and send a replacement... but I will not hold my breath with my luck.... sucky thing was he also mentioned I was the 4th or 5th person to mention the issue... so I guess capital has some shady folks working for them....
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Stoked to see serious BHO being made with legit n-Butane here!
Man I would love to taste some of those oils!
Man I would love to taste some of those oils!
@farscaper. Did this happen inside a full case of tane? The case I ordered seemed not to be tampered with.
Just did another run from very fresh bud. The result is almost white in colour. It has a fantastic flavour, easily as good as vaping the bud directlty with the Solo, you know that first full flavoured toke!
I am doing BHO and putting it in a vac chamber with very low temp (+/- 100F). For a very short time it goes clear but then it is still bubbling. When it finishes bubbling I get this very light coloured budder.
Is this normal or does it indicate a problem in my process?
Cheers
Rishi
I am doing BHO and putting it in a vac chamber with very low temp (+/- 100F). For a very short time it goes clear but then it is still bubbling. When it finishes bubbling I get this very light coloured budder.
Is this normal or does it indicate a problem in my process?
Cheers
Rishi
I buy em strait from the manufacturer site. and I buy them in a 3 pack as needed some times. this was one of those times... holidays and all that.
we shouldnt be receiving half full cans from a manufacturer just because we purchase 3 instead of 12.....
for clarity, i did note above as well that ken did note I was the 4th or 5th person to report this issue recently... so id say im not alone in this feeling.
IMO I think missing adapter ring and resin fingerprints on the 100g light can are pretty much all the proof needed to verify they have a sticky finger employee messing about thinking they are really sticking it to the man...
well... you stuck it to me... man... its people like that giving cannabis users a bad rap...
fuck theft.... especially solvent theft.
peace.
edit: @spoutti once you go vac you never go back! especially ethanol can result in a better product after vacuum desiccation.
most will find the battle not being in removing all the solvent... but rather removing all of moisture.
and yes absolute does produce fewer clouds per effects... mostly because you dont need to inhale as much to get the pure effect your looking for.
peace.
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NickDlow
Log Hog
Sorry to get off topic but I'm glad this thread became active again I was missing it lol that's all...
Hopefully I'll be doing a run this weekend I think I may give the bho another shot but I hate purging with heat! Has anyone sucessfully vac purged their bho with no heat added?
Hopefully I'll be doing a run this weekend I think I may give the bho another shot but I hate purging with heat! Has anyone sucessfully vac purged their bho with no heat added?
on a 100°F day...? sure lol.
its not so much heat or no heat.... its how hot and what atmosphere...
@NickDlow you still using slicksheets?
ive had very good results with pyrex myself. teflon is a great idea... but... I find it just as fickle as scraping... but in a diffrent more irritating way.
NickDlow
Log Hog
Yea I'm still using the sheets for the most part. Do u think there is a loss from the end result using the sheets vs straight pyrex? I felt I was losing more from the glass (corners n shit) than the sheets imo
scrap as much as possible... dont sweat the curves and then just wash out that last bit with everclear. you can then evap that on parchment with no heat just a fan fairly quick and easy. and theres no waste then.... usually I dont see a ton from the process... but .1 or .2 can be worth the effort imo.
. and you can just toss the dirty scraping blade in the dish when your washing it out and theres no need to worry about cleaning it either.
I like to scrape at 110 too... more like smearing honey than chipping shatter that way.
and a round flat bottom pyrex. the only real difficult spot is the curve from wall to bottom. as opposed to the corners of a square dish.
Unless the product is completely decarbed heat is a must. 100° is where you want to be. Without heat the material would be too thick to release all the tane. Now I've seen white runs but there's a huge difference between white and clear.
If it's clear like glass it's most likely over purged. Of it's white and buttery I'd love to see a pic. I've made very pale honeycomb but never shatter.
You guys shouldn't be scared of heat. It's not was causes waxing! Most believe it is but I promise it's a myth. Waxing comes from two things.
1 - uneven heat. When running in your chamber on paper if on end isn't secured down and air gets underneath causing one side to stick up slightly your most likely going to get wax spots.
2 - moisture got into your mix. If while doing your initial purge water got in or your weed had to much moisture in it your going to wax.
If you want shatter here is a couple of tricks.
While in water for the initial purge keep a lid on your dish. This will help with condensation and foreign particles landing in your pot.
Spray into a glass (pyrex) dish that will fit in your chamber. Go from the water to the vac for about an hour then scrape to paper and finish. You'll see an enormous difference in your color and consistency. This is also a way to temper the material. This should keep you from waxing.
NickDlow
Log Hog
Thanks for the good tips but I wasn't worried about waxing. I'm more worried about losing the flavor. I usually run KX and ET so I usually don't apply heat.
But with bho I understand the need for heat now. Also I don't like the hot water bath either for the fact of condensation. That's just to hurry up the evap, correct
Hi Guys, Im brand new here just made the account today after looking into some bho research this seems to be a pretty solid forum for good info on concentrates etc..
Spent some time looking through the post your stash thread and my god you guys are making some amazing looking stuff!! I recently made my first couple small batches and I kind of fucked up the second one and it seems like theres still butane in it (sparking a bit). however, I did manage to spill a bit of hot water in the pyrex while it was in the water bath so this may also be causing the sparks i don't actually know. The reason I'm thinking its butane is that my first batch i just did the bath for approx 1 hour and it doesn't seem to spark ( this batch used 2 oz and 1 1/2 can of butane) on my second run I got greedy and used 3 cans of butane. Is there anyone here that could advise me on what my next move should be? Im now at a stand still as Ive put the oil into fivers already and don't know what my next move should be.
Thanks in advance for any help or advice I obviously am new to this and a proper vacuum is not an option for the amount I'm wanting to make, I just want it to be as clean as I can possibly get it
Spent some time looking through the post your stash thread and my god you guys are making some amazing looking stuff!! I recently made my first couple small batches and I kind of fucked up the second one and it seems like theres still butane in it (sparking a bit). however, I did manage to spill a bit of hot water in the pyrex while it was in the water bath so this may also be causing the sparks i don't actually know. The reason I'm thinking its butane is that my first batch i just did the bath for approx 1 hour and it doesn't seem to spark ( this batch used 2 oz and 1 1/2 can of butane) on my second run I got greedy and used 3 cans of butane. Is there anyone here that could advise me on what my next move should be? Im now at a stand still as Ive put the oil into fivers already and don't know what my next move should be.
Thanks in advance for any help or advice I obviously am new to this and a proper vacuum is not an option for the amount I'm wanting to make, I just want it to be as clean as I can possibly get it
NickDlow
Log Hog
Why no vac? It's the best way to purge imo no matter the amout.
I haven't looked into it too much but i had assumed it was pretty expensive and I am on a budget
NickDlow
Log Hog
They aren't crazy expensive but I understand your concerns but I'd try to save for it in the future it makes the process a lot easier.
Yes and no. The need to speed things up a bit is important because the less time your stuff is sitting in tane the better chance of getting it back out without totally stripping the plant.
If your using an induction cook top or perhaps an electric griddle you DON'T have to use water. I recommend and always teach with water but you can creat a heat buffer between your dish and the hot cooktop and let it dry purge.
Example, if using induction than your also using an induction interface disc which makes any chamber induction ready. Set the temp to 100° and place your pyrex right on the interface disc. It'll take a little longer because the idea of the water is ot covers more area per square inch to heat. Now your only relying on conductivity of the heat.
If your using a griddle turn that bitch down as low as she can go and place an upside down pyrex on there and your dish can go right on top of that. Why not direct like induction? Because those griddles swing to hold temp. If set to 120 it can swing up to +20/-20 and that will blow a load (giggity).
Great thanks a lot for the advice/help, I appreciate it and if I continue to make it I will def look into that, in the meantime can you or anyone else let me know if theres any thing else I can to do help remove some of the butane ? i.e. whipping, or transferring it from the fiver miles to parchment and trying to cook it really low in the oven?
NickDlow
Log Hog
I've delt with the follies of a griddle trust me.
I currently have a scientific hotplate but even that, the center of the plate is a different temp than the sides. So I'm guessing I should use the water bath too when I use my hotplate.
I just don't like the water being so close.
I currently have a scientific hotplate but even that, the center of the plate is a different temp than the sides. So I'm guessing I should use the water bath too when I use my hotplate.
I just don't like the water being so close.
I've only had one time the water get in my oil. I actually was able to evap the water and successfully made honeycomb.
And go to induction. I used to use the nu-wave cooktop for a hundred bucks at walmart. Or get a 20% coupon for bed bath and beyond and get it for $80. No more temp swings.
I was scared of making any variations in the beginning too. Don't worry, feel free to ask questions. Learn from my mistakes cause trust me, I've fucked up a lot in the 710 world.
On the other hand, that's how I learned to fix shit. Lol
I wanted to add, there are people actually water purging now. The water will evaporate out. Is it a good thing? Fuck no but it's not game over.
The only thing I know in which it's game over is not shutting your exhaust valve when bleeding the chamber and getting dirty oil spit back in the tank on your load. Yeah, for those who don't think that ball valve is necessary between the vacuum pump and the chamber.
I learned that lesson too.
And go to induction. I used to use the nu-wave cooktop for a hundred bucks at walmart. Or get a 20% coupon for bed bath and beyond and get it for $80. No more temp swings.
I was scared of making any variations in the beginning too. Don't worry, feel free to ask questions. Learn from my mistakes cause trust me, I've fucked up a lot in the 710 world.
On the other hand, that's how I learned to fix shit. Lol
I wanted to add, there are people actually water purging now. The water will evaporate out. Is it a good thing? Fuck no but it's not game over.
The only thing I know in which it's game over is not shutting your exhaust valve when bleeding the chamber and getting dirty oil spit back in the tank on your load. Yeah, for those who don't think that ball valve is necessary between the vacuum pump and the chamber.
I learned that lesson too.
killick
But I like it!
Thanks for this info! I've been using hot water as we have a gas range here, and I don't need the aggravation of a flash. (I'm very well ventilated, and working in small batches). I'm currently looking for an portable induction unit, but it appears they are not created equally. Any suggestions on what to look for in an induction unit? Any brands that are better for this than others?
Thanks!
Edit - just saw your Nu- Wave post. Will check Bed, Bath and Behind one day when we make it into town... I tend to dislike shopping tho, but post-Christmas might not be as bad...
Thanks!
Edit - just saw your Nu- Wave post. Will check Bed, Bath and Behind one day when we make it into town... I tend to dislike shopping tho, but post-Christmas might not be as bad...
use rice.... dry rice. hospitals are beginning to use dry bagged rice because they can freeze it or heat it and use it as hot and cold compress.I've delt with the follies of a griddle trust me.
I currently have a scientific hotplate but even that, the center of the plate is a different temp than the sides. So I'm guessing I should use the water bath too when I use my hotplate.
I just don't like the water being so close.
if hospitals use it....
so next time ur trying to create a buffer... try rice... cause cooking oil and water can be a pain in the ass... just keep in mind that rice can burn if overheated.
I still use water btw. and induction... but I have used rice with great result if your concerned about potential contamination... although most of the contamination occurs from the plant matter and condensation from freezing process of extracrion... ie the tube is sweaty bro!
edit: or you used an alcohol and have to remover that moisture too.
@FreeSound re dissolve in warm everclear. and re evaporate it.
and save for a vacuum setup.
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killick
But I like it!
I have a real n00b question, and this does look like the right thread to ask it. I've been searching and just haven't found quite the right info, so here goes...
What do you do with your concentrate once it's evaporated? I scraped my (sticky, clear/light green goo) into a small silicone Oilcan. As I didn't have an oil vape I mixed in a bit of dry herb til it was a bit less tar-like, and then I tried small pieces in a regular vape, sandwiched between more herb.
Over the hols I picked up an oil vape on a whim. When I got home I figured 'why not', broke off a small piece and put it on top of what I later learned is an 'e-nail'. The smoke was immediate and THICK! And tasted of forestfire from my AVB trial run. But it was an amazing experience, even the forestfire taste reminded me of camping. There was a very little bit of sparking, which I assume is alcohol flashing off. Anyways, not being quite pleased with the clarity, I dropped it into a batch of budder, and am about to try again, but this time with a mix of 20g of 24% THC and 10 grams of a 14% THC/8% CBD blend, and am aiming to keep this one in better condition.
Mistakes made: Mixed ABV and good bud. Should have stuck with ABV for trial.
Put a couple of paper coffee filters in a metal filter basket, and then dumped straight into that. It got gunked up immediately and I would up juggling a whole bunch of things til it finally drained, but it soaked a good couple of minutes longer than intended.
I only did one wash, and then froze the remainder and used it in a batch of budder a few days later.
*Next time - start with coarse filter, then metal coffee filter, and then decide whether to Aeropress the last bit.
* After decarb, freeze everything for a few hours. Drain into a steel bowl in an ice bath - keep everything as cold as possible until it gets to dehydrate step.
It'll be evaped in a small glass dish floating in a larger glass dish full of kettle-boiled water.
Once everything is evaped does it go straight into oilcan? Or should I be stirring or agitating during the dehydrate phase?
I've looked up some of the vacuum containers online - they look like a bit of a ripoff at over 100 beans just for the container. The same glass dish, with a bit of magic lexan from the hardware store, and you should be good to go. As for pumps - I did some airbrush putzing around a bunch of years ago. That should work for vacuum, and they are inexpensive - it's not like you are trying to suck-start a Harley or anything, right? An auto brake bleed kit is cheap. So are those weenie keyboard vacuums should be enough to create a slight vacuum for pulling materials out, or am I way off base?
TIA, and I did say it was a total newb question, right? But I'm enthusiastic
What do you do with your concentrate once it's evaporated? I scraped my (sticky, clear/light green goo) into a small silicone Oilcan. As I didn't have an oil vape I mixed in a bit of dry herb til it was a bit less tar-like, and then I tried small pieces in a regular vape, sandwiched between more herb.
Over the hols I picked up an oil vape on a whim. When I got home I figured 'why not', broke off a small piece and put it on top of what I later learned is an 'e-nail'. The smoke was immediate and THICK! And tasted of forestfire from my AVB trial run. But it was an amazing experience, even the forestfire taste reminded me of camping. There was a very little bit of sparking, which I assume is alcohol flashing off. Anyways, not being quite pleased with the clarity, I dropped it into a batch of budder, and am about to try again, but this time with a mix of 20g of 24% THC and 10 grams of a 14% THC/8% CBD blend, and am aiming to keep this one in better condition.
Mistakes made: Mixed ABV and good bud. Should have stuck with ABV for trial.
Put a couple of paper coffee filters in a metal filter basket, and then dumped straight into that. It got gunked up immediately and I would up juggling a whole bunch of things til it finally drained, but it soaked a good couple of minutes longer than intended.
I only did one wash, and then froze the remainder and used it in a batch of budder a few days later.
*Next time - start with coarse filter, then metal coffee filter, and then decide whether to Aeropress the last bit.
* After decarb, freeze everything for a few hours. Drain into a steel bowl in an ice bath - keep everything as cold as possible until it gets to dehydrate step.
It'll be evaped in a small glass dish floating in a larger glass dish full of kettle-boiled water.
Once everything is evaped does it go straight into oilcan? Or should I be stirring or agitating during the dehydrate phase?
I've looked up some of the vacuum containers online - they look like a bit of a ripoff at over 100 beans just for the container. The same glass dish, with a bit of magic lexan from the hardware store, and you should be good to go. As for pumps - I did some airbrush putzing around a bunch of years ago. That should work for vacuum, and they are inexpensive - it's not like you are trying to suck-start a Harley or anything, right? An auto brake bleed kit is cheap. So are those weenie keyboard vacuums should be enough to create a slight vacuum for pulling materials out, or am I way off base?
TIA, and I did say it was a total newb question, right? But I'm enthusiastic