snackmaster
Well-Known Member
@invertedisdead I don't follow - all the little holes are in the bottom piece, which is the same part in both heads, right?
Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
Whoops, I guess you’re right, for some reason I thought the Weedeater head had the same amount of holes as the bottom diffuser, but I guess it’s just a nut basically. My mistake there!
What can I say, It’s Memorial Day and I “can’t remember shit”
The Showerhead is probably the only vape I’ve ever sold that I regret! Definitely a CRUSHER!
Had my FP VROD for about 3 months and have some questions….
1. Does the shovel head bowl, need to be flush with the glass. I will post a picture below with it not being flush to show what I’m talking about. The reason it does this is because the post will push on the screen inside the shovel head bowl and won’t allow it to connect with the glass. I have noticed that most 14mm joints won’t be flush with glass. When I use it like this the screen gets dirty a lot quicker too. I think this is because the post is pushing up against the screen.
Link to image
2. To piggyback off my last question, does the 18mm post outperform the 14mm? Maybe because all my 14mm pieces have post pushing against the screen but my 18mm outperforms and doesn’t get as dirty. Wondering if you guys have had similar findings. I was thinking about getting mega globe but it is 14mm which has turned me off of it.
3. How do you smoke kief? It is better to sandwich between the bud or is it alright just to put on top of bud?
1. Does the shovel head bowl, need to be flush with the glass. I will post a picture below with it not being flush to show what I’m talking about. The reason it does this is because the post will push on the screen inside the shovel head bowl and won’t allow it to connect with the glass. I have noticed that most 14mm joints won’t be flush with glass. When I use it like this the screen gets dirty a lot quicker too. I think this is because the post is pushing up against the screen.
Link to image
2. To piggyback off my last question, does the 18mm post outperform the 14mm? Maybe because all my 14mm pieces have post pushing against the screen but my 18mm outperforms and doesn’t get as dirty. Wondering if you guys have had similar findings. I was thinking about getting mega globe but it is 14mm which has turned me off of it.
3. How do you smoke kief? It is better to sandwich between the bud or is it alright just to put on top of bud?
thevapist
Well-Known Member
@snackmaster Making a lot more sense after seeing those renders. I'd buy one!
stonewatcher
Well-Known Member
I use the Mega globe and the 14mm post does not have that issue shown in the image. It doesn’t “rise” above the post like that. It bowl rests on the glass and the post just keeps it in place.
The post does cause excess buildup around the edge of the screen as the post is quite close to the screen. It is not resting on the screen and there is room for airflow. I don’t have issues with cleanup but it’s noticeable.
Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
1-
No, it doesn’t “need” to be flush, as soon as the taper at the bottom of the post is air tight, sealing the 18/14 reducer I see you’re using.
Yes, it pushes the screen if you’re having issues with that depth of taper, no matter what bowl post you’re using.
Or you need to change adapter, or find a rig that matches that taper.
Most low quality import, or older glass models, tend to have that issue of deeper tapering angles.
There are different ISOs at glass specifications too. Mainly there are 2 specific angles for tapering and the international rules, as always don’t apply to imperialistic measurements like here at the states.
It’s a shame that we’re in 2021, and because of trade wars we still can’t agree on a simpler measurement system.
Yes it gets dirty faster and it looks and sometimes can be a little unstable to use in some rigs or without proper technique.
2-
Most likely it’s due because of different aerodynamics from the 14 or 18 whole airpath.
Your rig has more to do with this, if you find a rig that you can sit both 14/18 bowl posts flush at the same depth, and if you take off the screen you’ll see the same post protruding the same length inside the bowl.
Makes sense??
SINCE I EXPLAINED 1 POST ABOVE HERE, THAT NV FP CHANGED THE ID OF BOWL POSTS a long time ago.
Post in thread 'Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer'
https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/...e-flowerpot-twax-vaporizer.23162/post-1572818
To sum it up, imho & e, it’s your glass and technique vs the bowl posts.
YMMV but I doubt it.
Get a single perc DHGate Hollow base Matrix rig. You’re not going to regret it.
Mega globe is more bells & whistling from the people pushing their own agenda than it really functions.
Most likely you saw that awful to look and more expensive piece of metal junk, some stem turner is selling, to make that mega globe more appealing.
3-
Imho & e, kief on top of the bowl is the way to go. Just barely cover the screen with weed, too much and you’ll most likely be dumping unvaped kief, since kief it’s really hard to combust, and your weed will darken way faster than the kief will stop producing vapor.
Makes sense??
If you sandwich or mix, you wouldn’t notice how far you extracted from the kief.
But YMMV, and you can still vape it as you wish or follow other people advice and get your own opinions.
Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
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@Zangano Cruel
2. I might have to try the basket technique you are using instead of the NV screens.
The piece I bought for the flowerpot fits the 18mm post and shovel head perfectly. While using it I have to change my screens every week or so compared to the 14mm pieces I use I have change daily. So that part of it works fantastic. The issue is it takes way longer to extract fully compared to other bongs I have. I’m not sure if it’s my technique or the bong. Im also not 100% sure I have the water level right. I would rather try and figure out what I’m doing wrong with my current bong before I buy the dh gate matrix. It is similar to the one I have but a lot smaller. Here is a picture of it.
Link
2. I might have to try the basket technique you are using instead of the NV screens.
The piece I bought for the flowerpot fits the 18mm post and shovel head perfectly. While using it I have to change my screens every week or so compared to the 14mm pieces I use I have change daily. So that part of it works fantastic. The issue is it takes way longer to extract fully compared to other bongs I have. I’m not sure if it’s my technique or the bong. Im also not 100% sure I have the water level right. I would rather try and figure out what I’m doing wrong with my current bong before I buy the dh gate matrix. It is similar to the one I have but a lot smaller. Here is a picture of it.
Link
Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
Does a SiC dish has more heat retention than 6 SS unknown materials washers from a regular hardware store??
What about the extra added weight vs the lightness of SiC during use??
Does it tip the glass rig more, leans more, put more weight/pressure to a dropdown/
NV FP used to make a simpler carb cap that’s pretty similar to that piece you draw with plenty of holes, it was way simpler and holes come from the top, angled or not.
Easier to make and test in real life, and cheaper to machine in CNC, I believe.
Of course people complained and whined and complained and whined and complained and whined, why NV FP didn’t make a cheaper more user friendly, more advanced carb cap that can be used with multiple NV FP heads and so on and etc etc???
And now we’re going back again to the basics, same design, but more complicated to make, with added cost of Ti, labor, and the wear and tear of the CNC machining Ti???
What’s the point of adding another $50-80 plus in Ti material weight and labor, to a VROD or a WE, if you can learn how to vape with a proper technique and get same results with a proper technique or adding the help of a cap, or anything that serves as a cap, as I explained on one of my videos and posts before, or raising up the temperature, or slowing or upping your inhaling techniques??
Imho & e, not trying to discredit your thoughts or designs, they look really cool on paper, or if you own a CNC machine, or you work at NV FP, but in real life, it has been tested, and we can’t really pretend to make the wheel rounder, can we??
Imho & e, the beauty of NV FP designs are getting better, because of their minimalistic design.
Adding more stuff on top of it is going backwards to the Wraparound and ShowerHead designs, old, outdated, and heavy.
I own a ShowerHead too.
That’s why I never got my head around the Tsunami yet.
I own the first D-Cup version, and those systems are more complicated than a VROD or a WE.
I can cap the WE and it’ll give me same results as this prototype without the added mass weight and price and so and so and etc etc.
YMMV.
Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
What about the extra added weight vs the lightness of SiC during use??
Does it tip the glass rig more, leans more, put more weight/pressure to a dropdown/
NV FP used to make a simpler carb cap that’s pretty similar to that piece you draw with plenty of holes, it was way simpler and holes come from the top, angled or not.
Easier to make and test in real life, and cheaper to machine in CNC, I believe.
Of course people complained and whined and complained and whined and complained and whined, why NV FP didn’t make a cheaper more user friendly, more advanced carb cap that can be used with multiple NV FP heads and so on and etc etc???
And now we’re going back again to the basics, same design, but more complicated to make, with added cost of Ti, labor, and the wear and tear of the CNC machining Ti???
What’s the point of adding another $50-80 plus in Ti material weight and labor, to a VROD or a WE, if you can learn how to vape with a proper technique and get same results with a proper technique or adding the help of a cap, or anything that serves as a cap, as I explained on one of my videos and posts before, or raising up the temperature, or slowing or upping your inhaling techniques??
Imho & e, not trying to discredit your thoughts or designs, they look really cool on paper, or if you own a CNC machine, or you work at NV FP, but in real life, it has been tested, and we can’t really pretend to make the wheel rounder, can we??
Imho & e, the beauty of NV FP designs are getting better, because of their minimalistic design.
Adding more stuff on top of it is going backwards to the Wraparound and ShowerHead designs, old, outdated, and heavy.
I own a ShowerHead too.
That’s why I never got my head around the Tsunami yet.
I own the first D-Cup version, and those systems are more complicated than a VROD or a WE.
I can cap the WE and it’ll give me same results as this prototype without the added mass weight and price and so and so and etc etc.
YMMV.
Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
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Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
Nice Pulsar rig. My friend had some of those. He sold them.
Those honeycomb perc on top of the Matrix sometimes tend to be an overkill in the pressure extraction in the bowl.
Chuggier natural percs tend to create hot spots, chuggier percs gurgle and are violent/noisy, compared to the tight fizzing honeycomb/matrix combo.
Water in that rig, mostly works better, if you only have the matrix perc covered. Go 1/2cm to a cm above the matrix perc level.
Do not overfill the bottom chamber imho & e.
YMMV.
Stirring once or twice to cash a bowl isn’t a big deal for me.
I have years of experience (10 years vaping) and sometimes I cash a fresh small bowl in one big hit, but is violent and unnecessary imho.
2-3 hits per scoop in the bowl, (1-2mm of weed level, just to cover the screen) is a basic that any user should abide.
Remember this isn’t combusting, where you can cash a snap bowl in one.
This is vaping, even that the WE, SH or VROD can act as a lighter, it doesn’t mean that without the proper technique you’ll be able to always cash a bowl in one hit. Unless you’re Zancru
(joking and scratching my own ego)Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
p.s: I can cash a bowl in one hit, specially the Arizer baskets technique ones.
Ok I for sure try and do one hit every time and load more than a thin layer on the screen. I will try to stir with thin layer of weed to see how that works.Nice Pulsar rig. My friend had some of those. He sold them.
Those honeycomb perc on top of the Matrix sometimes tend to be an overkill in the pressure extraction in the bowl.
Chuggier natural percs tend to create hot spots, chuggier percs gurgle and are violent/noisy, compared to the tight fizzing honeycomb/matrix combo.
Water in that rig, mostly works better, if you only have the matrix perc covered. Go 1/2cm to a cm above the matrix perc level.
Do not overfill the bottom chamber imho & e.
YMMV.
Stirring once or twice to cash a bowl isn’t a big deal for me.
I have years of experience (10 years vaping) and sometimes I cash a fresh small bowl in one big hit, but is violent and unnecessary imho.
2-3 hits per scoop in the bowl, (1-2mm of weed level, just to cover the screen) is a basic that any user should abide.
Remember this isn’t combusting, where you can cash a snap bowl in one.
This is vaping, even that the WE, SH or VROD can act as a lighter, it doesn’t mean that without the proper technique you’ll be able to always cash a bowl in one hit. Unless you’re Zancru
Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
p.s: I can cash a bowl in one hit, specially the Arizer baskets technique ones.
Before the flowerpot I was doing one hitters that combusted with a beaker bong. So I’m striving for the one hitters that I use to get.
I’m not sure if it’s because I’m use to beaker bong but I like using them more than the pulsar I have. When using beaker I didn’t notice uneven burn I think you were referring too by saying hot spots. It is the piece that I posted first earlier with the post not being flush. Im going to try and get an 18mm slide to use instead of my 14mm to see if that fixes my issue.
snackmaster
Well-Known Member
@Zangano Cruel I appreciate all the comments!
As far as everything else you said, it's not my intention to complicate things or move backwards - I'm relatively new to the flowerpot so please excuse my ignorance of past designs and prototypes. I'm totally with you on the importance of technique BUT I also try to keep in mind not everyone has the breath control, dexterity, etc to fully control each variable and sometimes accessories have to bridge those gaps.
Anyway, this was just an idea that's of interest to me but also assumes 1) the VROD will continue to be the flagship device, 2) the WE will be discontinued at some point, and 3) there's some value in a flower-centric VROD kit given #2. IMO getting rid of the WE without having some kinda flower-centric option is a mistake that might keep some people from dipping their toe in the CH pool
All good questions! I'm not sure about heat retention but it absolutely adds weight. That doesn't affect my particular setup, but could be problematic for others. Not everyone will agree with this, but I'm not overly concerned about the washer material after several burnoffs
As far as everything else you said, it's not my intention to complicate things or move backwards - I'm relatively new to the flowerpot so please excuse my ignorance of past designs and prototypes. I'm totally with you on the importance of technique BUT I also try to keep in mind not everyone has the breath control, dexterity, etc to fully control each variable and sometimes accessories have to bridge those gaps.
Anyway, this was just an idea that's of interest to me but also assumes 1) the VROD will continue to be the flagship device, 2) the WE will be discontinued at some point, and 3) there's some value in a flower-centric VROD kit given #2. IMO getting rid of the WE without having some kinda flower-centric option is a mistake that might keep some people from dipping their toe in the CH pool
Zangano Cruel
IG zan.cru (code) zancru (5% NV checkout discount)
I don’t believe they are going to drop the WE from their lineup anytime soon.
I’m more inclined that the WE arrived to stay.
If someone is really concentrate focused, a full quartz banger directly to a glass rig is of the purest I’ve tried.
Some fancy SiC inserts and many more new composite ceramics, that pretend to “enhance” flavor by retaining heat, and by such, you can lower the heating temperature of the oils, all inside a quartz banger.
Quartz bangers really are the most flavorful way to do concentrates.
Even quartz bangers with an axial enail isn’t as good as a torched quartz dab.
Dabbing from years, taught me that is like cooking, I’ve never seen a professional chef cooking on IH, or electric stove, they all cook on the flame stove, and many prefer flame ovens as well.
But YMMV, I have a D-Cup too, that is more flavorful than a VROD, but they all fall to the purity of flavor of a quartz banger.
Imho & e, the first ones that are going to suffer in sales or lower stock are going to be the Tsunami, then the D-Cup or T-Bucket, and finally the VROD. Hopefully they all keep selling for years to come.
WeedEater and VROD will stay for a time.
But these are my opinions, YMMV.
Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
I’m more inclined that the WE arrived to stay.
If someone is really concentrate focused, a full quartz banger directly to a glass rig is of the purest I’ve tried.
Some fancy SiC inserts and many more new composite ceramics, that pretend to “enhance” flavor by retaining heat, and by such, you can lower the heating temperature of the oils, all inside a quartz banger.
Quartz bangers really are the most flavorful way to do concentrates.
Even quartz bangers with an axial enail isn’t as good as a torched quartz dab.
Dabbing from years, taught me that is like cooking, I’ve never seen a professional chef cooking on IH, or electric stove, they all cook on the flame stove, and many prefer flame ovens as well.
But YMMV, I have a D-Cup too, that is more flavorful than a VROD, but they all fall to the purity of flavor of a quartz banger.
Imho & e, the first ones that are going to suffer in sales or lower stock are going to be the Tsunami, then the D-Cup or T-Bucket, and finally the VROD. Hopefully they all keep selling for years to come.
WeedEater and VROD will stay for a time.
But these are my opinions, YMMV.
Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
snackmaster
Well-Known Member
They've mentioned the possibility in a few livestreams but you're more in the loop than I am
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
@Zangano Cruel I appreciate all the comments!
All good questions! I'm not sure about heat retention but it absolutely adds weight. That doesn't affect my particular setup, but could be problematic for others. Not everyone will agree with this, but I'm not overly concerned about the washer material after several burnoffs
As far as everything else you said, it's not my intention to complicate things or move backwards - I'm relatively new to the flowerpot so please excuse my ignorance of past designs and prototypes. I'm totally with you on the importance of technique BUT I also try to keep in mind not everyone has the breath control, dexterity, etc to fully control each variable and sometimes accessories have to bridge those gaps.
Anyway, this was just an idea that's of interest to me but also assumes 1) the VROD will continue to be the flagship device, 2) the WE will be discontinued at some point, and 3) there's some value in a flower-centric VROD kit given #2. IMO getting rid of the WE without having some kinda flower-centric option is a mistake that might keep some people from dipping their toe in the CH pool
I've been running my VROD at the same temp as you (315°C/600F°) with the SiC dish and carb cap and I just don't see how it could be any better. Flavour is the only area where the VROD could be marginally better imo which it can, slightly, with a glass bowl. Otherwise it means moving to a glass heater but then it's more like an electric Elev8r/SSV43 neither of which have a nice wide bowl and they hot spot on the surface of a deep bowl so stirring is much more needed or bowls have to be packed more shallow. Plus it still doesn't hit like the VROD does imo and I find glass gets dirty faster as well compared to the titanium Shovelhead so that's another trade off. All 3 hit harder than most vapes on the market but the VROD is just ridiculous.
As is, it's a contender for the hardest hitting vape in my collection, I can't say for sure because I'm drunk on VROD love
so I know my opinion is biased. There's nothing wrong with experimenting I just don't see the advantage of switching out to SS even if it meant there would be a larger amount of stored heat energy. I haven't had the chance to try a Showerhead but I'm very curious why it's liked more than the VROD, is it just the mass like you say i.e. stored heat energy, or is there other reasons? I didn't research the Showerhead much after discovering it was no longer being sold otherwise it would have been high on my list because of the praise it receives.With the same mass, SiC will blow stainless steel out of the water, no question. It doesn't really matter what the exact composition of the stainless is but I assume those washer would be 303 or 304. Even if they're 316H the heat retention properties are much better on SiC.
That would surprise me, granted I don't know what the sale numbers on the WE are but as an outsider it seems like a really good device that allows a lower price entry into the CH world plus you can use non-proprietary coils which is a win for customers if they already have a coil they can put to use.They've mentioned the possibility in a few livestreams but you're more in the loop than I am
WelshBrok
Well-Known Member
I like this idea but actually would like something similar that screws in over the dish and pearls, like a permanent carb cap. My VROD spends 100% of the time like this (I have a banger + ruby insert to dab out of these days):
With a few pearls in that I feel (very possibly placebo) helps heat/condition the air before it gets pulled through the main heater. It’s actually meant I don’t stir anymore, which could just be as it’s capped.
Problem is when someone new comes to hit it there’s a hot bit of loose TI and several hot little marbles they weren’t expecting to not be attached
which has resulted in some carpet casualties
snackmaster
Well-Known Member
I appreciate the info! I need to switch back to the SiC dish and play around with it more - I was experimenting with the washers based on my experience with dynavap tips and preference for SS over Ti.
Silicon carbide has a high thermal conductivity so it heats and cools quickly. Similar to how a Ti Vapcap heats and cools quicker than SS.
Heat retention is much better in an insulator (like glass)
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
@SquirrelMaster It’s been a while since I had the ShowerHead and VRod side by side, but both do a great job and I’m not sure you’d notice any increase in performance if you could get one. If it was dramatic I think they’d still be making the ShowerHead or refining the VRod. It may be like the WeedEater vs VRod where adjusting the temp will get you about the same results for flower.
The ShowerHead actually is the one that will fit more tightly on different coils due to the extra threading and the nut that fits on the bottom though. You could even leave off the side cover if your coil was strangely wide. The WeedEater is, I believe, the same design as the VRod inside which is why you can swap parts if you want.
Oh, and the SH may have a little better temperature stability, but most people don’t manage to drop the temp too hard during a draw anyway, but for very long draws it might have a real advantage.
I don’t plan to get rid of my ShowerHead, but if they were both being sold and I was choosing between them, overall I’d come down on the VRod side.
The ShowerHead actually is the one that will fit more tightly on different coils due to the extra threading and the nut that fits on the bottom though. You could even leave off the side cover if your coil was strangely wide. The WeedEater is, I believe, the same design as the VRod inside which is why you can swap parts if you want.
Oh, and the SH may have a little better temperature stability, but most people don’t manage to drop the temp too hard during a draw anyway, but for very long draws it might have a real advantage.
I don’t plan to get rid of my ShowerHead, but if they were both being sold and I was choosing between them, overall I’d come down on the VRod side.
snackmaster
Well-Known Member
Now we're talkin 
If you’re gonna go that far ya might as well run dual coils too right????
snackmaster
Well-Known Member
@slozukimc I'd love to stack heads like @Zangano Cruel but I've only got one controller. This is just screwing around, nothing I'll actually try.
Where is your sense of adventure my friend??? Lmao
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
I was under the impression SiC acted more like glass (insulator) but you are right it does have higher thermal conductivity than stainless steel so it should cool faster. That goes against what I've read about using SiC balls instead of boro for better heat retention in ball vapes. I wonder if that's because of the higher specific heat of SiC which allows it to heat up faster i.e. faster recovery?
SiC heats up faster because of its high conductivity, But thats also why it cools quicker. Faster recovery generally comes from less thermal mass. If you try a SiC dish on a Ti base with flat coil it really illustrates this better than anything. I’m not sure if NV/CH still makes these but they used to offer them, basically a Dnail alternative.
Pretty much all ball vapes have constant power delivery so they wouldn’t need much heat retention. Heat retention is most important on vapes that don’t have a continuous supply of power, like a torched Elev8r, or a quartz banger. Also most ball vapes have a glass insulator housing to help retain heat which makes direct conduction contact with the balls.
demonscars
Well-Known Member
Decided to pick up one of the D-nail halo quartz 2nds while they were available and it arrived today. Haven’t dabbed on it yet (and probably rarely will), but it looks perfect. It had a sticker that said “chips” but I don’t see any.