snackmaster
Well-Known Member
@invertedisdead I don't follow - all the little holes are in the bottom piece, which is the same part in both heads, right?
@invertedisdead I don't follow - all the little holes are in the bottom piece, which is the same part in both heads, right?
Had my FP VROD for about 3 months and have some questions….
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I was thinking about getting mega globe but it is 14mm which has turned me off of it.
1-Had my FP VROD for about 3 months and have some questions….
1. Does the shovel head bowl, need to be flush with the glass. I will post a picture below with it not being flush to show what I’m talking about. The reason it does this is because the post will push on the screen inside the shovel head bowl and won’t allow it to connect with the glass. I have noticed that most 14mm joints won’t be flush with glass. When I use it like this the screen gets dirty a lot quicker too. I think this is because the post is pushing up against the screen.
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2. To piggyback off my last question, does the 18mm post outperform the 14mm? Maybe because all my 14mm pieces have post pushing against the screen but my 18mm outperforms and doesn’t get as dirty. Wondering if you guys have had similar findings. I was thinking about getting mega globe but it is 14mm which has turned me off of it.
3. How do you smoke kief? It is better to sandwich between the bud or is it alright just to put on top of bud?
I don't do concentrates so I swapped in a stack of stainless washers to increase the mass. Has anyone else tried something like this?
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@invertedisdead thanks for clarifying, I stand corrected!
edit: if that's the case then a part like this that adds more more mass and more holes for air to pass thru could be cool as an alternative to the dish
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A little more fleshed out: this would replace the dish and lengthen the heated airpath by adding 12 holes to feed the main one + lots of additional mass
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Nice Pulsar rig. My friend had some of those. He sold them.@Zangano Cruel
2. I might have to try the basket technique you are using instead of the NV screens.
The piece I bought for the flowerpot fits the 18mm post and shovel head perfectly. While using it I have to change my screens every week or so compared to the 14mm pieces I use I have change daily. So that part of it works fantastic. The issue is it takes way longer to extract fully compared to other bongs I have. I’m not sure if it’s my technique or the bong. Im also not 100% sure I have the water level right. I would rather try and figure out what I’m doing wrong with my current bong before I buy the dh gate matrix. It is similar to the one I have but a lot smaller. Here is a picture of it.
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Ok I for sure try and do one hit every time and load more than a thin layer on the screen. I will try to stir with thin layer of weed to see how that works.Nice Pulsar rig. My friend had some of those. He sold them.
Those honeycomb perc on top of the Matrix sometimes tend to be an overkill in the pressure extraction in the bowl.
Chuggier natural percs tend to create hot spots, chuggier percs gurgle and are violent/noisy, compared to the tight fizzing honeycomb/matrix combo.
Water in that rig, mostly works better, if you only have the matrix perc covered. Go 1/2cm to a cm above the matrix perc level.
Do not overfill the bottom chamber imho & e.
YMMV.
Stirring once or twice to cash a bowl isn’t a big deal for me.
I have years of experience (10 years vaping) and sometimes I cash a fresh small bowl in one big hit, but is violent and unnecessary imho.
2-3 hits per scoop in the bowl, (1-2mm of weed level, just to cover the screen) is a basic that any user should abide.
Remember this isn’t combusting, where you can cash a snap bowl in one.
This is vaping, even that the WE, SH or VROD can act as a lighter, it doesn’t mean that without the proper technique you’ll be able to always cash a bowl in one hit. Unless you’re Zancru (joking and scratching my own ego)
Stay vaped. Mantente de la mente!!!
p.s: I can cash a bowl in one hit, specially the Arizer baskets technique ones.
All good questions! I'm not sure about heat retention but it absolutely adds weight. That doesn't affect my particular setup, but could be problematic for others. Not everyone will agree with this, but I'm not overly concerned about the washer material after several burnoffsDoes a SiC dish has more heat retention than 6 SS unknown materials washers from a regular hardware store??
What about the extra added weight vs the lightness of SiC during use??
Does it tip the glass rig more, leans more, put more weight/pressure to a dropdown/
They've mentioned the possibility in a few livestreams but you're more in the loop than I amI don’t believe they are going to drop the WE from their lineup anytime soon.
@Zangano Cruel I appreciate all the comments!
All good questions! I'm not sure about heat retention but it absolutely adds weight. That doesn't affect my particular setup, but could be problematic for others. Not everyone will agree with this, but I'm not overly concerned about the washer material after several burnoffs
As far as everything else you said, it's not my intention to complicate things or move backwards - I'm relatively new to the flowerpot so please excuse my ignorance of past designs and prototypes. I'm totally with you on the importance of technique BUT I also try to keep in mind not everyone has the breath control, dexterity, etc to fully control each variable and sometimes accessories have to bridge those gaps.
Anyway, this was just an idea that's of interest to me but also assumes 1) the VROD will continue to be the flagship device, 2) the WE will be discontinued at some point, and 3) there's some value in a flower-centric VROD kit given #2. IMO getting rid of the WE without having some kinda flower-centric option is a mistake that might keep some people from dipping their toe in the CH pool
With the same mass, SiC will blow stainless steel out of the water, no question. It doesn't really matter what the exact composition of the stainless is but I assume those washer would be 303 or 304. Even if they're 316H the heat retention properties are much better on SiC.Does a SiC dish has more heat retention than 6 SS unknown materials washers from a regular hardware store??
That would surprise me, granted I don't know what the sale numbers on the WE are but as an outsider it seems like a really good device that allows a lower price entry into the CH world plus you can use non-proprietary coils which is a win for customers if they already have a coil they can put to use.They've mentioned the possibility in a few livestreams but you're more in the loop than I am
I like this idea but actually would like something similar that screws in over the dish and pearls, like a permanent carb cap. My VROD spends 100% of the time like this (I have a banger + ruby insert to dab out of these days):
I appreciate the info! I need to switch back to the SiC dish and play around with it more - I was experimenting with the washers based on my experience with dynavap tips and preference for SS over Ti.With the same mass, SiC will blow stainless steel out of the water, no question. It doesn't really matter what the exact composition of the stainless is but I assume those washer would be 303 or 304. Even if they're 316H the heat retention properties are much better on SiC.
Even if they're 316H the heat retention properties are much better on SiC.
If you’re gonna go that far ya might as well run dual coils too right????Now we're talkin
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Where is your sense of adventure my friend??? Lmao@slozukimc I'd love to stack heads like @Zangano Cruel but I've only got one controller. This is just screwing around, nothing I'll actually try.
I was under the impression SiC acted more like glass (insulator) but you are right it does have higher thermal conductivity than stainless steel so it should cool faster. That goes against what I've read about using SiC balls instead of boro for better heat retention in ball vapes. I wonder if that's because of the higher specific heat of SiC which allows it to heat up faster i.e. faster recovery?Silicon carbide has a high thermal conductivity so it heats and cools quickly. Similar to how a Ti Vapcap heats and cools quicker than SS.
Heat retention is much better in an insulator (like glass)
I was under the impression SiC acted more like glass (insulator) but you are right it does have higher thermal conductivity than stainless steel so it should cool faster. That goes against what I've read about using SiC balls instead of boro for better heat retention in ball vapes. I wonder if that's because of the higher specific heat of SiC which allows it to heat up faster i.e. faster recovery?