Arizer Solo

[Red Indy]

Not enough videos showing the beast abilities this vape has. This my m102 rippin my knockoff matrix perc. This combo makes me forget about the cloud very quickly. These hits take your breathe away haha!

I never seem to get clouds as thick as this one shows when using my water tool (mini bubbler)
Wondering what I am doing differently?

Edit:
But than I saw that his setting is #7 so I am wondering if it still is vapor or smoke from (partial) combustion. When I set the unit on #5 or higher the taste deteriorates and the load seems close to combustion. When I put it on #4 it gives good full and tasty vapes but nothing like the clouds I see on this video.
I love to use the (full glass) mini bubbler icw the Solo, it's a cheaper way to improve on airflow problems.

 

[fubar]

this was one of the first things i thought about after hitting it a few times. just slightly bigger would be perfect. it is a little too restricted for my tastes, but its new so we will see. it def produces.

Solo temperature control seems really good to me, and I'm betting the restricted airflow is carefully tuned to match the heater output.
Bigger holes = bigger airflow = less temperature stable.
OTOH, variable air flow into the heater cup would be a really great upgrade for people who dislike the draw - which I guess is why pvhes and similar stems are popular.
It seems to work really well for me as it is.

 

[SteezyJ]

Which option of the pvhes do you perfer? I'm thinkin of getting one to decrease some of the draw while still getting bigger hits

 

[JSteez4205]

Edit: I also do full bowls but zero pack. Find it's better for full heat and through glass

Sorry, I get the full bowls part, but what do u mean by zero pack? Are you referring to just putting product in stem w/o mashing it in??

I have found that just sucking a little herb up into the bowl stem via straw like method works best with filling the bowl yet leaving enough airflow to cause no restriction when actually drawing...

 

[charliedontsurf]

Solo temperature control seems really good to me, and I'm betting the restricted airflow is carefully tuned to match the heater output.
Bigger holes = bigger airflow = less temperature stable.
OTOH, variable air flow into the heater cup would be a really great upgrade for people who dislike the draw - which I guess is why pvhes and similar stems are popular.
It seems to work really well for me as it is.

I use glass stems which I've modified for great airflow, both with Gong stems and without, and also use an Ed's wood stem with slits in it which are identical in principle. Each draw definitely drop the heater temperature more in this case and you can notice it if you are actively passing it around a circle of people, but it's not huge and I prefer the improved airflow. When I use it with glass (often) I can clearly see that the vapor is not thinning out during long draws and that all is copacetic.

Too bad the bowl isn't bigger.

 

[vape4life]

Wait a sec, from vast discussion of the airpath in the Solo earlier in the thread, with diagrams and whatnot, wasn't it determined that those 4 tiny holes don't provide the airflow? But rather it comes from the top (outside) down into the heater and up the stem? That's why you can really manipulate the airflow by tilting/rocking the stem.

It's incredible for those that were here from the start of this thread to see the various dynamics and different members over different times throughout its evolution. Anyone still remember KJ Rockwise?

 

[m0sh]

Wait a sec, from vast discussion of the airpath in the Solo earlier in the thread, with diagrams and whatnot, wasn't it determined that those 4 tiny holes don't provide the airflow? But rather it comes from the top (outside) down into the heater and up the stem? That's why you can really manipulate the airflow by tilting/rocking the stem.

It's incredible for those that were here from the start of this thread to see the various dynamics and different members over different times throughout its evolution. Anyone still remember KJ Rockwise?

It is the 4 holes on top...easy to determine while blocking them.

 

[vape4life]

Ya but by blocking them with the stem flush against the bottom of the chamber covering the holes could just mean that airflow isn't getting in there from the top? The holes could just allow a bit more airflow? I'm saying this because I remember someone using a high power microscope earlier in the thread and stating the the holes never went anywhere.

I've also plugged them all with hash once and still could use it and had airflow.

 

[kingofnull]

Wait a sec, from vast discussion of the airpath in the Solo earlier in the thread, with diagrams and whatnot, wasn't it determined that those 4 tiny holes don't provide the airflow? But rather it comes from the top (outside) down into the heater and up the stem? That's why you can really manipulate the airflow by tilting/rocking the stem.

It's incredible for those that were here from the start of this thread to see the various dynamics and different members over different times throughout its evolution. Anyone still remember KJ Rockwise?

It is the 4 holes on top...easy to determine while blocking them.

Aye air comes in through the top of the unit exclusively, except in the case of PVHE stems/GonGs, where some of the airflow comes through the micro channels on the glass.

 

[vape4life]

I'm talking about the teeny tiny 4 holes in the bottom of the heater bowl, not the top cap.

 

[m0sh]

Not sure what to tell then about those holes...I can tell you that water can pass through them and wreck the heating element

 

[Red Indy]

I'm talking about the teeny tiny 4 holes in the bottom of the heater bowl, not the top cap.

Those small holes weren't visible in my M107 but now I have the M1A I can see 4 small holes in the bottom of the heating element.
So the older model has a mesh on the bottom of the heating element and the M1A is completely closed to leave those 4 air holes visible.

 

[m0sh]

Those small holes weren't visible in my M107 but now I have the M1A I can see 4 small holes in the bottom of the heating unit.
So the older model has a mesh on the bottom of the heating element and the M1A is completely closed to leave those 4 air holes visible.

Hmm...you are wrong, I saw them fine with my M107...

Regardless I like my new solo more TBH

 

[kingofnull]

Hmm...you are wrong, I saw them fine with my M107...

Regardless I like my new solo more TBH

I just wish the battery meter on the M1A models was more accurate.

 

[vape4life]

I wonder if they will fix that back to the way it was. You know they read the thread here.

 

[kingofnull]

I wonder if they will fix that back to the way it was. You know they read the thread here.

I'm surprised they haven't already. Aren't there already a few M1 revisions out there?

 

[Red Indy]

Hmm...you are wrong, I saw them fine with my M107...

Regardless I like my new solo more TBH

Do you own both models?
I liked the M107 better than the M1A.
With the mesh on the bottom of the M107 I never had problems with things sticking inside but with the closed one it seems to happen all the time.
Also the M107 looks better, M1A has a shiny surface and a rather plastc look and feel, unlike the beatiful matte finish and metallic look/feel of the M107.

 

[vape4life]

I've had both (numerious times! lol).... the heater bowls are the same, not sure what you're talking about but pics would clear things up real fast If there was mesh on the bottom, then that possibly could have been the retailer putting a screen in there for whatever reason (some people do that), and maybe it covered the holes so you didnt see them? I dunno, but they are the same.

Arizer uses different paints....yeah i've had that matte finish one that I also prefer, but they also use a glossy. I've noticed this more in the black ones than the silver. It's just paint dude, they aren't plastic except for the bottom and some internal.

I'm surprised they haven't already. Aren't there already a few M1 revisions out there?

Ya M1A and M1D as far as I know...could be more....maybe Arizer wants to keep it this way though. Not really a big deal though, as soon as your battery drops to nothing you know you have another cycle or 2 to go. Still "fairly" accurate I suppose, but still would prefer the older firmware.

 

[m0sh]

I just wish the battery meter on the M1A models was more accurate.

what do you mean by that?
With my M107, after 12mins session at "5" , the battery would show 5 but on my M1AD it shows 6

Do you own both models?
I liked the M107 better than the M1A.
With the mesh on the bottom of the M107 I never had problems with things sticking inside but with the closed one it seems to happen all the time.
Also the M107 looks better, m1A has a shiny surface and a rather plastc look and feel, unlike the beatiful matte finish and metallic look/feel of the M107.

Had M107 died on me(water accident), yeah the silver coating was nicer but that's nit picking.

What do u mean problem with things sticking inside? I have zero problems.

 

[vape4life]

what do you mean by that?
With my M107, after 12mins session at "5" , the battery would show 5 but on my M1AD it shows 6
.

That's the exact opposite of what actually has been happening. The battery indicator drops super fast on the M1 serials...like to 5 after one sesh, but on the M107 you could do a full sesh and the battery either wouldnt drop at all, or just 1 light.

You sure you compared the 2 from full charge?

 

[Red Indy]

I've had both (numerious times! lol).... the heater bowls are the same, not sure what you're talking about but pics would clear things up real fast If there was mesh on the bottom, then that possibly could have been the retailer putting a screen in there for whatever reason (some people do that), and maybe it covered the holes so you didnt see them? I dunno, but they are the same.

Arizer uses different paints....yeah i've had that matte finish one that I also prefer, but they also use a glossy. I've noticed this more in the black ones than the silver. It's just paint dude, they aren't plastic except for the bottom and some internal.



Ya M1A and M1D as far as I know...could be more....maybe Arizer wants to keep it this way though. Not really a big deal though, as soon as your battery drops to nothing you know you have another cycle or 2 to go. Still "fairly" accurate I suppose, but still would prefer the older firmware.

Might be that I still have a pic somewhere of the mesh but it would be on my PC that is broken down at the moment so I can't get to the HDD, so have to wait for that to get fixed.
I always presumed that it was normal to have that mesh on there (bottom of the heating element) but you might be right, it looked golden and was very fine mazed.
My previous M107 isn't anymore, after some malfunctions Arizer took it back and replaced it for the M1A.

 

[kingofnull]

what do you mean by that?
With my M107, after 12mins session at "5" , the battery would show 5 but on my M1AD it shows 6
.

I mean the meter drops off too early. It'll show the battery at Level 1 or below, and still have plenty of battery left. It's well known that the M1 models have less accurate battery indicators than the M107.

That's the exact opposite of what actually has been happening. The battery indicator drops super fast on the M1 serials...like to 5 after one sesh, but on the M107 you could do a full sesh and the battery either wouldnt drop at all, or just 1 light.

Exactly.

 

[mmenzie]

Do you own both models?
I liked the M107 better than the M1A.
With the mesh on the bottom of the M107 I never had problems with things sticking inside but with the closed one it seems to happen all the time.
Also the M107 looks better, M1A has a shiny surface and a rather plastc look and feel, unlike the beatiful matte finish and metallic look/feel of the M107.

what is this mesh on the bottom of the M107 you speak of?? i own a M107 and i do not have any mesh inside my M107 and i can see the 4 tiny holes.

 

[vape4life]

Sounds to me like the retailer opened up the box and stuck a brass screen in there for some odd reason?

 

[shredhead]

I never seem to get clouds as thick as this one shows when using my water tool (mini bubbler)
Wondering what I am doing differently?

Edit:
But than I saw that his setting is #7 so I am wondering if it still is vapor or smoke from (partial) combustion. When I set the unit on #5 or higher the taste deteriorates and the load seems close to combustion. When I put it on #4 it gives good full and tasty vapes but nothing like the clouds I see on this video.
I love to use the (full glass) mini bubbler icw the Solo, it's a cheaper way to improve on airflow problems.

NO combustion at 7, just try it out I can garuntee you'll be impressed!