510 Halo-mesh

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well maybe you should try the RX300 and see what happens. As said i am sure a piece of cork wont do any good in this case. I have a remote 510 connection concept and the bulb is basicly 30cm away from the base which does not get warm even a tiny bit .
Anyway that is for today,batteries are dead. Tomorrow will be the day of further experimentation.
You have to take in account that we are using different atomizer bases. Mine is pretty tiny so i will try a bigger on when at hand.
I am pretty satisfied with the 5 minutes running time i get with the 90w, it works fine with the RX300 if anything else doesnt. . ) Also i am pretty sure it is better suited for other mods which would overheat as easy as the rx300,than the 35w.
Btw mods and heatsink pins are brass but my atty pin is something shiny.

 

[blokenoname]

Well, I assume the both rx mods are similar enough and with the other idiosyncrasies, one has just to see. Did my best to help you out there, as by chance I got my hands onto a pretty similar mod there and had the bulbs already. So use it or leave it. Up to you

For me this works out nice, as I just need to go for the 12V/50W Reprap cartridge now and know which mod to get, to run it in cruise mode

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Thx for trying ) ! But everyone does best with the situation in front of him.. It is hard to judge from a distance for the right reason. It could be the pin,the wiring,my mod,the mod's connection could have gotten fucked up with the many screw offs and ons.. there is tons of thing that i must rule out.. I am glad that you got it figured out your case,but just because you made it work ,it does not means it is the same issue.As said i am able to run higher wattages without such overheating issues..
The lower the wattage of the bulb the more the heat to the chip, this is what i know. 5 minutes of operation at 40w with the 90w werent enough to produce enough conduction even to get things warm to the touch the 510 .
Even when ran bare bulb without body problem still persists with the lower wattage bulbs.
Originally i sold my TUBOevic because the one battery mod was overheating way easier than the RX300 with tuboX where that is not of an issue. Tubo evic had its wires directly soldering no 510 at all to get hot or smth like that. I have tried EVIC vtc mini with the TUBOx and it overheats as the same manner as the TUBOevic.

 

[KeroZen]

Did you guys tried loading a tungsten TFR curve into ArticFox? I wonder if you could make TC work...

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

TC is limited to 1.5 ohm at least on my mod. Also the Coil burns with thousand of degrees to produce 300c outside the glass at best. i think it is out of the range of any mod and controlling it within the 300C range is pointless. One can try with 100w 12v though ). it is just about 1.45 ohms.
Just pull off the batteries off the charger at 40% and tried it with a tiny cork disc slice cut form a cork stopper.Got álmost two minutes cruise time from 35C to 70C with the 35 bul and thats it @blokenoname. It is made of natural cork i dont know if it does the same deal as yours.
Maybe adding the cork ring didnt insulate heat in your case but changed the angle or attributed in other way to a better contact.

 

[blokenoname]

Thing is, that the mod seems to check for cold resistance, not hot. That's why it accepts even the 4,11 ohm (hot) 35W bulb, but not my 3,6 ohm (cold) cartridge. It reads the bulb at 0,5 ohm. Well in specs
If there is something like a tungsten curve... well
Otherwise it might be an interesting spectacle, locking a cold sub ohm resistance and having to deal with 2-4 ohms then, I guess.

For myself, I've to admid, that I still need to RTFM of the Arctic Fox software first. Only today had the time to look deeper into the rx200 mod, I got lent there. Tried it out only superficially before, soon running into the same probs as AV here, and then it also wouldn't register the cartridge any longer after first run, as its inial resistance fresh out of the packet and unused registered at about 3,4 ohm and so within range and after first heatup then settled at the 3,6 ohm, math demanded... and dropped out of range So I was putting aside the whole thing for the time being, to get me little cartridge portable up and running on the iStick first, that could deal with its 3,6 ohms.

As I can't seem to sleep anyway, I'll see, if I can rig up a little proof of concept halo portable running on the rx mod here. The 12V/50W cartridges seem as hard to get, as the ones Rasta recommended. So it will take two weeks at least, before I can test run them in my cartridge portable on the rx

 

[KeroZen]

Could try this one for instance, but it's only specified up to 300°C. Maybe the trick would be to tweak it such as 300°C displayed on screen (and as set temperature) would instead be high enough to vaporize. You really shouldn't focus on what's on display, just see it as a mean to set the temperature, unrelated to what your element will run at.

Temp. °C -40 20 50 100 150 200 250 300
Temp. °F -40 68 122 212 302 392 482 572
Res. factor 0.73000 1.00000 1.13500 1.36000 1.58500 1.81000 2.03500 2.26000

It should be possible to trick the mod, whatever the heater temperature you're trying to achieve.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@KeroZen I will try it somewhere along the run for sure then,since you say it is possible, for the sake of experiment.
Btw i am getting more than 9 minutes running time with a friends mod - Smoant battlestar 200w Here you can see the specs, 8,4v output and 5 ohm upper limit in VW with the 50w before it got too hot. THat is enough for like two back to back sessions . I guess it is probably the RX300 that shits the show, i will know more when i try his other mods later.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well, while the 50 watt works with the Smoant battlestar 200 it overheates with the 35watt. Evic Primo works just with 75 and 90w as the Wismec without issues. The 75 can do one full session the 90w can do two back to back without overheating the chip .
I am starting the suspect that that ohm range thingie is the reason for the overheating chips in some models...
Anyway i am seeing also other possible actions to take in order to make Halo-mesh good for the majority of mods ,but i will have to wait a bit till i can further test those. For now i will try to do just with things on hand.
Next thing i am going to get is a better atomizer base or bases,i will have go trough the lot of them before i commit to purchase any,which would be a time consuming task. Sofar what i am happy with the current concept is that it doesnt get the atomizer base hot at all.Halogen bulb + mesh manages to contain heat in a certain area without conduction it to others. but that is without an added heatshield. I expect heat will rise up some when a housing is added. For now i think i am going to add metal foil just the the top and leave the rest into wood to glass contact.
Forgot to mention that heating time with the 90w is very fast ,like 25 seconds from cold.. It guess it is not as quick as the mesh heaters but still quick enough.Once hot you dont really need to cruise or any long fire time.. 5 seconds pulses are more than enough to keep the fun going. Even with a mod like the istick 100 which is limited to 5 seconds ,the preheat time will be just 5 cycles.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well ,thanks to a small talk with an electrician i think i got the chip heating issue shit solved.Ordered some bulbs with specs he suggested, and i have yet to confirm it works better than the current ones. He said in theaory this should work but if it still presents issues, i can still give him a call and get this figured out,it kind of felt good that he got intrigued by the project and is willing to help .
I still gotta figure an easy DIY solution for the masses for the housing and find a better base ,but if anyone wants to try the halomesh heater, i suggest go straight for the 90w , it works with most of the mods i tried.