Discontinued Thermovape Cera

OF said:

Some thoughts:

• Rinse it last in hot water and work quick
• Shake as much water out as you can as soon as you can
• Lay it on it's side rather than stand it on end
• Leave it in a warm place, warmer than the surrounding area

I usually leave mine on the router overnight and it's dry by morning if I do the above.

At first I'd screw up by not shaking as much out as I could get.

OF

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yes i did all that but still had sizzling, now has less after fired it up a few times.

OF said:

I seriously doubt it's the cart. A cart using 3 times normal power would most likely blow up. And spreading twice the power that's used in the core (a fair bit) around the rest of the vape would make it hotter than the load is, also not likely.

What you're seeing is abnormally low life from several different batteries, which is why I suspect the charger?

It's always possible they all packed in more or less together, but that too seems unlikely. My money's on the charger.

OF

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regarding your second sentence, im not quite sure what you are saying... But i do notice when i use the CGR top cap gets really hot really fast, and the lower part of the body of the ceram seems to get abnormally hot, but yet i get little or no vapor production compared to the NCR. And i use the same technique...

I guess i will try a different charger...is it okay to use the persei charger with the CGR batteries

Mynameismud said:

regarding your second sentence, im not quite sure what you are saying...

I guess i will try a different charger...is it okay to use the persei charger with the CGR batteries

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If the battery is OK and normally charged but gives only 1/3 the normal life, it much be supplying 3 times the power. That's past the ability of most batteries, but WAY past what the heater can take, much worse than putting a LV load on a SV head (which is generally fatal in a few seconds). I don't think that's happening, therefore I don't thing they are healthy batteries normally charged.

Yes, that charger should be OK, but I'd charge one at a time.

OF

OF said:

If the battery is OK and normally charged but gives only 1/3 the normal life, it much be supplying 3 times the power. That's past the ability of most batteries, but WAY past what the heater can take, much worse than putting a LV load on a SV head (which is generally fatal in a few seconds). I don't think that's happening, therefore I don't thing they are healthy batteries normally charged.

Yes, that charger should be OK, but I'd charge one at a time.

OF

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Ive been charging one at a time only, ive been switching between an orbtronic NCR and a regular flat top NCR, the CGR and AW 2000mah...the first two CGRs i used gave me the results im getting now, i noticed they were dented so i just tossed them (prob not relevant) and the current CGR im using came with the persei i got in a trade...I do still have 4 more CGRs that i charged once and then left at 70ish percent, i guess its time to try those but im assuming ill just get the same bad results and be even more frustrated.

So anyway, charged the CGR using the persei charger this time...same bad results...
When i use either of the NCRs i have (2 orbtronic, 2 flat top) here is my process...
1) load chamber to top lightly pack down and make sure its even with the top of the cartrridge
2) hold button for 30ish seconds, then lightly/slowly inhale
3) i usually see vapor and am good to go otherwise i hold for another 10-20 seconds and repeat

When i go to use the AWs and the CGRs i follow the same process, except after 30 seconds no vapor, hold for 20 ish seconds no vapor, and keep repeating this about 4-5 times until i finally see vapor. But by this point the majority of the body, the top cap and mouthpiece are all way too hot...like in 2 minutes with these batteries my cera feels equivalent to a full session with the NCR batteries...am i doing something wrong?

The AWs were purchased from both lighthound and w9tech, the CGRs were purchased from fasttech with the NCRs that work fine, and the orbrtonic ones that also work fine came with my cera...

Also the AWs work fine with my persei, and the AWs and CGRs work fine with EO cartridge...and ive tried 3 different chargers to charge both the CGR and NCRs

I just dont get it...

Have you tried cleaning the contacts? (Not the battery contacts, the Cera contacts). If they're dirty, and not making good electrical contact, you'll be experiencing pretty much what you're describing.

I'm sure OF can give you good advice on the best way to check and clean the Cera's contacts (I don't have one...).

Just a thought. (And my 420th post).

Mynameismud said:

So anyway, charged the CGR using the persei charger this time...same bad results...
When i use either of the NCRs i have (2 orbtronic, 2 flat top) here is my process...
1) load chamber to top lightly pack down and make sure its even with the top of the cartrridge
2) hold button for 30ish seconds, then lightly/slowly inhale
3) i usually see vapor and am good to go otherwise i hold for another 10-20 seconds and repeat

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That should (and does at least for a while sometimes) work. I can't get away from the very short battery life part, if the battery and charge are normal that can't happen....but is.

Haywood's suggestion normally would be gold but bad contact doesn't go with full power and short battery life. That battery power should be somewhere. Something should be WAY too hot at least.

I'm afraid it might be time to send it in to the shop. I'd probably send the entire Cera along with one battery for them to test for you?

Sorry noting better comes to mind. Something's not right and a clean bill of health from the factory might be a necessary starting point?

OF

Mynameismud said:

When i go to use the AWs and the CGRs i follow the same process, except after 30 seconds no vapor, hold for 20 ish seconds no vapor, and keep repeating this about 4-5 times until i finally see vapor. But by this point the majority of the body, the top cap and mouthpiece are all way too hot...like in 2 minutes with these batteries my cera feels equivalent to a full session with the NCR batteries...am i doing something wrong?

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Most likely, OF is right in that you need to send it back. When this happened to me, I was stumped and totally thought it was a battery issue. But here's one more thing to try. Remove the switch and try foil paper. Once I did that, the cart heated up like new and perfect hits after 30 second warm up. Since that was a fix for me, I bypassed the switch by using a paperclip attached to the spring which makes connection to the body. So I basically screw in switch to turn on and off. I haven't had problems since.

Skored said:

Most likely, OF is right in that you need to send it back. When this happened to me, I was stumped and totally thought it was a battery issue. But here's one more thing to try. Remove the switch and try foil paper.

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Good call. I keep coming back to it draining batteries, but checking out the switch part is an easy and potentially useful test.

OF

@Haywood, @OF, @Skored thanks for your help/input...im gonna try all of the suggestions...

I dont think its the contacts, im getting good results with the 2900mah batteries and LL (except i notice a pretty signifcant dip in performance after about 2 sessions), but who knows because I do get what i would assume is normal results with the CGR and AWs when using the EO cartridge...

To clean the contact just use Iso and a Qtip? It doesnt look any different than my EO though, but its worth a shot i guess...

And the foil thing, just take a small piece of foil and place it inbetween the battery and spring?

OF said:

Good call. I keep coming back to it draining batteries, but checking out the switch part is an easy and potentially useful test.

OF

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Im not sure it is draining the batteries, to me it feels like theyre just not working like they should with the LL... 2900mah battery and it works fine with LL. But with the 2250mah and AW 2000mah batteries, like i mentioned previously, It takes almost the same amount of time to get vapor production than it would for me to finish an entire load with the 2900mah battery. And by the time I start to get the vapor with the 2250 and 2000 batteries, the entire cera including the body is already as hot as it would be with the 2900 mah batteries...if i take those same batteries after attempting to use with the LL, and switch to EO they work normally with the EO for a while still before i feel it needs to be charged again.

its almost like im inhaling but the hot air is going in the reverse direction or something (again only with the the 2250 and 2000mah batteries)

I guess its time to contact zeki again , super bummed

I am having the same issues with my LL. I only use CRGs, and my EO cart works great, but I have the same exact results with my LL cart. Maybe a full load in the LL cart, but struggles on the 2nd. And diminished results (the ABV is not nearly as dark, and no chance of combusting it. Not really trying to, but it use to be an option if hitting too slow).

I was thinking it might be a bad charger killing my batteries. (I was using a sysmax itellicharger) I had a radio shack multimeter( I would not recommend ever), was showing all my batteries @3.5 v. Obviously I was a bit stressed/pissed/concerned. But then I took 2 brand new CRGs, and threw them on the charger. After full charge it also read 3.5 volts. (this was with the tenergy charger from TV)...So I picked up a better multimeter from a hardware store. and lo and behold! Every battery, including the 1st two I grabbed w/presale Cera, are now reading 4.2.

I've replaced the switch once already. It really didn't seem to correct the problem with the LL cart. Checking with the new multimeter I'm seeing almost a a resistance of 2. .2 on the switch, and .2-.3 on the strap.


Looks like it's time for me to send the ll cart in.

Maybe I'm missing something here, I must be.......

It keeps coming up weak batteries in my mind. They should drive half an hour, not a few minutes. And core type shouldn't matter in that. Any chance you wore them out?

OF

Same results with LL cart with brand new, first time used CGR18650CH.

OF said:

Maybe I'm missing something here, I must be.......

It keeps coming up weak batteries in my mind. They should drive half an hour, not a few minutes. And core type shouldn't matter in that. Any chance you wore them out?

OF

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I dont know about him, but ive now tried 4 different CGRs (3 brand new from one source, one came used from another) and the 2 AW 2000mah batteries and ive not gotten any good results. At least i know im not crazy now!

Id say im getting about 20ish minutes with the NCRs, i usually charge them up after that though so i havent tried to go past that but i guess i should...but with the other types of batteries and LL i just get A LOT of heat but no vapor production

And i would estimate that i can get about 30 minutes of use with the EO, i usually lose count though cause all three types of batteries can last me days with the EO

And ive now tried using 3 different chargers.


Emailed zeki, hopefully i can get it sorted out quick, ive just been getting back to LL and the cera is currently my only viable option!

Hey folks, did anyone (OF,Haywood???) use the new(?) Sony Konion US18650VTC4-2100mAh batteries, or if not are they worth to try them in the cera in terms of capacity/power above 3.3V?

Edit: Look at the list "Testergebnisse (Entladekurve) Dampfakkus"! Looks pretty similar at 2A and
3A but better at 5A in comparison to the CGR's??

TIA

Herbalist23

why Yes my good friend I have tried those batteries

definitely a Quicker startup time then the 2900mAh batteries That TET supplies.

they don't have as long as A lifespan as the 2900mAh.

I get around two to three bowls on the Sony 2100

and 5 on the 2900

Mynameismud said:

And the foil thing, just take a small piece of foil and place it inbetween the battery and spring?

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Remove your switch entirely and set it aside. Wad up a piece of foil paper so that it fits in the Cera and makes full flat contact with the battery, and pushed up against the battery so that the battery makes contact with the cart. Essentially the foil paper is your switch. As long as you hold it in place, you'll fire up your core.

Again, not sure if this will solve your problem. But I found that when I did the foil switch, the cart to started a glow much faster and I could vape 3-4 bowls easily with one battery. When I used my actual switch, one bowl was all I could get and it was difficult to complete the bowl in timely fashion. Ultimately, I think this had to do with the switch maybe sending less power? It ultimately works with the switch, but warm up times were extended to about 1 minute.

Skored said:

Remove your switch entirely and set it aside. Wad up a piece of foil paper so that it fits in the Cera and makes full flat contact with the battery, and pushed up against the battery so that the battery makes contact with the cart. Essentially the foil paper is your switch. As long as you hold it in place, you'll fire up your core.

Again, not sure if this will solve your problem. But I found that when I did the foil switch, the cart to started a glow much faster and I could vape 3-4 bowls easily with one battery. When I used my actual switch, one bowl was all I could get and it was difficult to complete the bowl in timely fashion. Ultimately, I think this had to do with the switch maybe sending less power? It ultimately works with the switch, but warm up times were extended to about 1 minute.

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Thanks, I will try that later... Also this sounds like a ghetto solution to a latching switch, im very intrigued

Mynameismud said:

Thanks, I will try that later... Also this sounds like a ghetto solution to a latching switch, im very intrigued

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Yes, totally ghetto. But it's just a test. If it works for you, PM me for the paperclip solution I mentioned.

if that improves the conductin and so the heating, then I would think it's time to check the contacts, clean the positive terminal by twirling a clean pencil eraser down in there, then a qtip with some alcohol to make sure no eraser particles are left behind.
I'm going to polish up ,m contact points, and the battery ends too.maybe it's time to check into some of this stuff to inhibit electrical corrosion ..?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104746

tedthehed said:

if that improves the conductin and so the heating, then I would think it's time to check the contacts, clean the positive terminal by twirling a clean pencil eraser down in there, then a qtip with some alcohol to make sure no eraser particles are left behind.
I'm going to polish up ,m contact points, and the battery ends too.maybe it's time to check into some of this stuff to inhibit electrical corrosion ..?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104746

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I don't support this advice. The 'foil ball test' substitutes for the switch and end cap, it doesn't change the other connections. It points to a hard failure in the end cap assembly. And has successfully for a number of owners (which is why it's advice worth repeating?).

If you feel a need to clean the top contact, simply unscrew the core and have at it in the open. Don't mess with it in place. Doing so, however, is a fools errand since the contract is Stainless Steel and doesn't oxidize. Nor does the finish on the battery. There is no oxide for the above cleaner to remove.

No harm in doing it (provided you're careful) but it's not going to address any issues known to cause problems with Cera. Cera was designed from the start to not need this sort of maintenance, which is why the maker doesn't cover it. It's not a flashlight.

OF

cera not a flashlight, I see, very informative, thanks for that great advice.
yet the cera seems to have have in common with the flashlight the sprung battery compartment.
over the years many flashlight owners have corrected their flashlights tendency to flicker and not light up
by cleaning the battery contact points. this can be oxidation, this can be dirt, this can be grease..
cleaning it often fixes the problems.
stainless steel is a lousy conductor and gets worse when it heats, if it the switch completely fails and requires a
aluminum foil ball to operate, it should be returned to the factory. it came from, or not purchased in the first place.
stainless steel will corrode, especially
y when it has a high current. running thru it..what cera should have used for failsafe operation is
cobalt gold mesh -- which also tends to self clean when inserting and removing the battery..

Skored said:

Remove your switch entirely and set it aside. Wad up a piece of foil paper so that it fits in the Cera and makes full flat contact with the battery, and pushed up against the battery so that the battery makes contact with the cart. Essentially the foil paper is your switch. As long as you hold it in place, you'll fire up your core.

Again, not sure if this will solve your problem. But I found that when I did the foil switch, the cart to started a glow much faster and I could vape 3-4 bowls easily with one battery. When I used my actual switch, one bowl was all I could get and it was difficult to complete the bowl in timely fashion. Ultimately, I think this had to do with the switch maybe sending less power? It ultimately works with the switch, but warm up times were extended to about 1 minute.

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My Cera has been very slow to heat up the past few days, to the point that sometimes it wouldn't heat up at all. I just tried your foil switch and it works great! At least I know now that my switch is bad. Thanks for this post man!! I stumbled across it just in time as I was getting pretty frustrated.

So, now that I know it's the switch, do you guys think I need to send it in for diagnosis and a switch replacement, or do you think if I contacted Zeki and told him the foil switch worked would he send me a new switch? Or will I have to send in the defective switch in order to receive a replacement? Any thoughts?

Chill Dude said:

My Cera has been very slow to heat up the past few days, to the point that sometimes it wouldn't heat up at all. I just tried your foil switch and it works great! At least I know now that my switch is bad. Thanks for this post man!! I stumbled across it just in time as I was getting pretty frustrated.

So, now that I know it's the switch, do you guys think I need to send it in for diagnosis and a switch replacement, or do you think if I contacted Zeki and told him the foil switch worked would he send me a new switch? Or will I have to send in the defective switch in order to receive a replacement? Any thoughts?

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When my switch went bad he sent out a replacement without asking me to send back the defective one. Can't say for sure whether this still is policy, but just wanted to relay my experience. Good luck, and hope things get sorted for you!

is it normal to take for it to take a 10 second warm up before being able to draw decent amount of clouds from the pinnacle hydrotube. when i was first using it, it took less then 5 seconds to be able to draw huge hits already.

I think the cera folks chose to tune the cart to perform at its best with a fully charged 3.7 volt battery.
the performance seems to degrade rapidly as the voltage goes down..
the resistance of the wire is fixed socits just not going to get as hot at a lower voltage, if it were a flashlght ot woupd grow dim fairly quickly. the way flashlight manfrs. compensate for this is by including a riny chip that maintans the same brightness with constant voltage, this gives you a much longer and brighter or hotter life ..i f the voltage isnt there with a fixed resistance, the wire is just going to get cooler and cooler, the higher voltage is necessary to push the amps thru the wire/cart.
I feel the cera begins to really need a recharge by only 3.5 volts .
.2 volts is kind of a small window for zippy performance...a little regulator "puck" placed at the positive end of the battery could completely cure the prob, i thnk...