Discontinued The Sublimator

ResinHead

Young Grasshoppa
So vapman was cool, but he said that I had to send it to the vendor first, who would then send it in to sublimator, then sublimator will send the part to them, then they will send it to me. At least that's the way I interpret "You should send the Appolo back to Fresheadies and he will sent it back to us. The timer seems to malfunction. I can only trade directly for units bought on www.sublimator.ca at the moment."

So in addition to international shipping, now I have to wait for the back and forth between vendor and manufacturer. That's a really weird way of implementing manufacturer support, but what can I do.

Then a few hours later Enrico chimed in to seemingly blame it on me: "You should never run your unit on over ride there is a reason there is a timer on it".

I responded by informing him that the heater was still working great, and to ask for the official instructions on what to do, and what not to do.

I would also add that "there is a reason" there is a timer override on it. Mainly that a 30-minute timer and a 20-minute heat up time leads to only a 10-minute subbing window, which makes it pretty much unusable for me without the 24-hour override. Which I do turn off manually more often than not.

I thought the timer was to protect the heater, not the timer itself which is what broke.

Im in a similar situation with warrantying my sublimator, when I contacted sublimator they told me that i needed to contact the vendor, and warranty through them. I contacted Ignite Smoke Shop in vancouver months ago, and have been waiting for a reply from them since then. Ive contaced them several times and ive been told that they are still waiting for the manufacturers response. I think that the device is awesome, but the lack of customer service and the fact that these devices are starting to die within less than a year of minor usage is very discouraging.
 

grokit

well-worn member
Im in a similar situation with warrantying my sublimator, when I contacted sublimator they told me that i needed to contact the vendor, and warranty through them. I contacted Ignite Smoke Shop in vancouver months ago, and have been waiting for a reply from them since then. Ive contaced them several times and ive been told that they are still waiting for the manufacturers response. I think that the device is awesome, but the lack of customer service and the fact that these devices are starting to die within less than a year of minor usage is very discouraging.

That sucks. Sublimator says it's not their problem, then the dealer says that it is, and that it's "not on their desk" any more. It sounds like you are getting the runaround. Hopefully I will have better results but your post is certainly discouraging, as is the lack of manufacturer support you are receiving.
 
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Monsoon

Well-Known Member
Im in a similar situation with warrantying my sublimator, when I contacted sublimator they told me that i needed to contact the vendor, and warranty through them. I contacted Ignite Smoke Shop in vancouver months ago, and have been waiting for a reply from them since then. Ive contaced them several times and ive been told that they are still waiting for the manufacturers response. I think that the device is awesome, but the lack of customer service and the fact that these devices are starting to die within less than a year of minor usage is very discouraging.
Maybe try escalating the issue through Sublimator or DabDiva?
 

grokit

well-worn member
Okay so an update: all is not lost :tup:

I haven't called freshheadies yet because I decided to take matters into my own hands.
:evil:
I noticed that it was possible to inspect the "innards" of the controller without breaking the decal seal so I snuk a peek. Inside the box the apollo is hard-wired to the rheostat (which is working fine), and then switched with the leviton light timer before going to the outlet. The timer is available on amazon for ~$25 shipped. I am not sure I would go that route if it did fail completely however...

The two components are hot-glued(?) to each other and to the enclosure, so replacing the problematic timer may be problematic? I don't have enough experience with hot glue to know how to get around it, but it would be simple enough to bypass the timer entirely and just use the rheostat switch since it has an on/off clicker. Another option would be to install a secondary switch or at least a switched indicator lamp for safety's sake, since there would be no indicator light if the timer was bypassed.

These switches are connected with common wire nuts, so the hot glue is really the only issue in servicing the box. If I knew the model number of the rheostat that would complete the circle of self-sufficiency in case that part ever goes bad, and I wouldn't feel that I would ever need to send it in. If the rheostat has to be replaced the short part of the cord would perhaps end up even shorter but idk.

But then again I can see how sending it for service could be a problematic proposition as well, as the apollo would have to be mailed internationally with the controller box and it's clearly not brand new. And the proposition of being without my precious for months possibly is problematic as well.

But here's the thing: it works perfectly now :uhh:

I put it back together and plugged it in, and turned the timer switch on with the rheostat switch off; the buzzing was now worse than ever. Then I turned the rheostat switch on and the buzzing stopped. Then I hit the timer override and it worked perfectly, with no buzzing at all. Wtf..?

I must have exorcised the demons by taking it apart and putting it back together, this is one of my favorite ways of fixing electronic doohickeys (it's happened before)! Or perhaps the interaction of the timer and the rheostat in the off position that caused all the commotion played a part.

The moral of this story is that the lamp timer is perhaps the weak spot of the controller box, but if you have basic (we're talking basic here!) electronic knowledge and a spot of handiness and common sense, it appears to be easily bypassed. To replace it would require a way around all that hot glue...

I have pics, but in the interest of possibly preserving whatever warranty I may still be entitled to I would prefer to have permission from sublimator first before I post any.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...:science:
 
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King

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Okay so an update: all is not lost :tup:

I haven't called freshheadies yet because I decided to take matters into my own hands.
:evil:
I noticed that it was possible to inspect the "innards" of the controller without breaking the decal seal so I snuk a peek. Inside the box the apollo is hard-wired to the rheostat (which is working fine), and then switched with the leviton light timer before going to the outlet. The timer is available on amazon for ~$25 shipped. I am not sure I would go that route if it did fail completely however...

The two components are hot-glued(?) to each other and to the enclosure, so replacing the problematic timer may be problematic? I don't have enough experience with hot glue to know how to get around it, but it would be simple enough to bypass the timer entirely and just use the rheostat switch since it has an on/off clicker. Another option would be to install a secondary switch or at least a switched indicator lamp for safety's sake, since there would be no indicator light if the timer was bypassed.

These switches are connected with common wire nuts, so the hot glue is really the only issue in servicing the box. If I knew the model number of the rheostat that would complete the circle of self-sufficiency in case that part ever goes bad, and I wouldn't feel that I would ever need to send it in. If the rheostat has to be replaced the short part of the cord would perhaps end up even shorter but idk.

But then again I can see how sending it for service could be a problematic proposition as well, as the apollo would have to be mailed internationally with the controller box and it's clearly not brand new. And the proposition of being without my precious for months possibly is problematic as well.

But here's the thing: it works perfectly now :uhh:

I put it back together and plugged it in, and turned the timer switch on with the rheostat switch off; the buzzing was now worse than ever. Then I turned the rheostat switch on and the buzzing stopped. Then I hit the timer override and it worked perfectly, with no buzzing at all. Wtf..?

I must have exorcised the demons by taking it apart and putting it back together, this is one of my favorite ways of fixing electronic doohickeys (it's happened before)! Or perhaps the interaction with the timer and the rheostat in the off position that caused all the commotion...

The moral of this story is that the lamp timer is perhaps the weak spot of the controller box, but if you have basic (we're talking basic here as far as my own) electronic knowledge and a spot of handiness and common sense, it appears to be easily bypassed. As long there is a way around all that hot glue...

I have pics, but in the interest of possibly preserving whatever warranty I may still be entitled to I would prefer to have permission from sublimator first before I post any.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...:science:
Bravo! :clap:

Are you implying that you can make the Sub more reliable?
 

grokit

well-worn member
You'd have to remember to turn it off yourself...

Knife-Switch.jpg


And I'm pretty sure this would void the warranty :evil:
 
grokit,

smokum

I am who I am and your approval isn't needed!
I think that should the time come for mine to experience a failure (original set up lamp dimmer rheostat), I'll simply be installing a more precise controller with readout myself and to hay with the warranty replacement.
 

King

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I think that should the time come for mine to experience a failure (original set up lamp dimmer rheostat), I'll simply be installing a more precise controller with readout myself and to hay with the warranty replacement.
If this plays out, would you mind making a step-by-step guide out of your experience?
 

smokum

I am who I am and your approval isn't needed!

Monsoon

Well-Known Member
My new Sublimator came in today and it's so nice to have it back. There were just a couple small changes in this revision, the cord is black instead of brown, Sublimator is laser etched into the heater, and the stand has the "S" carved out of it like in MarijuanaMan's video a page or two back. It came with the standard timer box and the override is still an option.
 

notmyrealUSERname

Notmy Well-Known Member
for those of you w/ launch tubes who are envying tommii and enrico's glass tubes. if you are adventurous, this might fit...

http://thick-quality-glass.myshopify.com/products/19-inline-with-detachable-glycerin-coil-5mm

Does anyone use the Sub Base Launcher with something like this: http://www.planetvape.ca/f-bomb-jet-diffused-micro-bubbler-tube.html. I've seen videos where people use setups that looks similar. Any advise?

i have no idea what the diameter of the launch tube is - but i know that its bigger than 18mm.
you might have better luck with one of these - they have 45mm male joints!

http://www.hossglass.com/products/h010/
http://www.hossglass.com/products/y301-a/
http://www.hossglass.com/products/yx44/
 
notmyrealUSERname,

Bob Loblaw

Astralnaut
i have no idea what the diameter of the launch tube is - but i know that its bigger than 18mm.
you might have better luck with one of these - they have 45mm male joints!

http://www.hossglass.com/products/h010/
http://www.hossglass.com/products/y301-a/
http://www.hossglass.com/products/yx44/
nice find, yea the f-bomb is a vertical tube w/ no way to attach to sub or launch-tube set that i can tell. the one i posted is 18 mm intake, but has a top coil tube that is removable that is probably the same size as those 45mm tubes, or close. anyone know the size of tommii and enrico's joints on their glass tubes or want to measure the inside of their launch tube setup?
 
Bob Loblaw,

Tommii

Subdivision Founder / Sublimator Ambassador
nice find, yea the f-bomb is a vertical tube w/ no way to attach to sub or launch-tube set that i can tell. the one i posted is 18 mm intake, but has a top coil tube that is removable that is probably the same size as those 45mm tubes, or close. anyone know the size of tommii and enrico's joints on their glass tubes or want to measure the inside of their launch tube setup?



The launch tube that can hold glass pieces such as Enrico's will fit build-a-bong pieces.

An example would be this one that I think Enrico has.

http://thejointgallery.com/glass-bo...-cheech-green-top-tube-with-spinner-sku-ta-3t
 
Tommii,
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Denver912

Active Member
Ok first I'm not trying to piss anyone off with my question. And it could be a dumb question. But I must ask it.

Is the sublimator a fancy way of taking dabs with bud? Dabs equal to a true full spectrum extract with terpenes still intact?

Damn that sounds stupid. But in my mind I don't see the difference? If someone could fill in please do. Tia.
 
Denver912,

Mister G

Deceptively Old Fart
Ok first I'm not trying to piss anyone off with my question. And it could be a dumb question. But I must ask it.

Is the sublimator a fancy way of taking dabs with bud? Dabs equal to a true full spectrum extract with terpenes still intact?

Damn that sounds stupid. But in my mind I don't see the difference? If someone could fill in please do. Tia.

Maybe only a mostly dumb question. But in my opinion, the answer is no, that's not quite it.
 
Mister G,
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Denver912

Active Member
Maybe only a mostly dumb question. But in my opinion, the answer is no, that's not quite it.
Thanks.

So I'm high again. And still asking dumb questions.

Is this a precise hot air extraction that is condensed and directed into a e-nail for the user to injest?
 
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Denver912,

Monsoon

Well-Known Member
So I'm high again. And still asking dumb questions.

Is this a precise hot air extraction that is condensed and directed into a e-nail for the user to injest?
Sorta. The analogy I like to us is that is like taking a balloon full of vapor and condensing it down to a single lung-full on the Sublimator. It's a lot more efficient in that way compared to other vapes on the market (other vapes may extract more fully but take longer to hit). The high that you get is more like that of taking a dab than a normal vape hit, I find this is true and I've seen others report this as well.
 

Liberty

Well-Known Member
Ok first I'm not trying to piss anyone off with my question. And it could be a dumb question. But I must ask it.

Is the sublimator a fancy way of taking dabs with bud? Dabs equal to a true full spectrum extract with terpenes still intact?

Damn that sounds stupid. But in my mind I don't see the difference? If someone could fill in please do. Tia.
In my opinion, it is totally different. The vapor is so much more dense. One's glass becomes totally white with thick dense vapor. In addition, it is supposedly refined by breaking the gas particles into smaller particles, which are better absorbed. In my experience, including combustion, nothing can get one as strong an effect as high quality material through the Sub.
 

shredhead

Specialist
I find myself only hitting the sub now adays, I use my solo for work but if I could sub at work I would. Really thinking about eating a TI Apollo when they come out. For now I will torch, but I can see that getting too hot in the summer for me. And for me sub vapor is a lot like dabs, but with all the other goodies attached. I haven't felt the need to have high quality oil around anymore. Strictly sub oil nowadays. This thing is the be all end all for me (tho I still have all my back up vapes), it sastisfies me in a way where I only need one or 2 sessions at night. Compared to having my vapes on all night and hitting them slowly all night. I find I have more energy as well, I'm not using anymore herb then I did with my other vapes( one gram a day), so all is well with the sub. :peace:
 

Mister G

Deceptively Old Fart
I find myself only hitting the sub now adays, I use my solo for work but if I could sub at work I would. Really thinking about eating a TI Apollo when they come out. For now I will torch, but I can see that getting too hot in the summer for me. And for me sub vapor is a lot like dabs, but with all the other goodies attached. I haven't felt the need to have high quality oil around anymore. Strictly sub oil nowadays. This thing is the be all end all for me (tho I still have all my back up vapes), it sastisfies me in a way where I only need one or 2 sessions at night. Compared to having my vapes on all night and hitting them slowly all night. I find I have more energy as well, I'm not using anymore herb then I did with my other vapes( one gram a day), so all is well with the sub. :peace:

I'm right with you there. And before the sub, I never did dabs....now I have a recycler just for the sub dabs and another glass piece for herb. Great flavor through the recycler. I use water too, I just prefer it over dry, although dry does have some extra oomph. I have a pv reclaimer, but mostly I scrape it up and dab as I go, it seems the walls of the reclaimer are much better at collecting the oil than the jar.

Anyone have a name for the water filtered byproduct from subbing? I just call it "snot". I spike my herb with a lot of keif though, so maybe that affects the filtered material, it resembles tiny bits of brain flesh and is very sticky sludge if you get it out and touch it. I should collect and dry the stuff and make it a challenge to anyone to inhale it's vapor through the sublimator, like one of those 85 oz steak challenges. mmmmm steak..... :mmmm:gggggrrrrrgggggggrrrr
 
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notmyrealUSERname

Notmy Well-Known Member
ill back up what everyone else says - its a one and done vape! thats what makes it similar to dabs!

i think the reclaimer is a bit of a mixed blessing - it keeps the WT super clean, and it gathers the sublimate, but its huge! it could be a lot smaller which would help get the sublimate into the jar rather than the sides.
 
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