Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

Deadhead101

I am the Vapor King--I can do anything
Give or take. Yes, what do you see?

OF

I saw the oil sizzle and bubble as it burned. Also, there is a black residue left over after i burn it completely. The residue is darker than the bho, and it appeared like the res even had little bubbles in it too.
 
Deadhead101,

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Black residue is no good. Recommend ISO wash of the Rev and reclaiming what you can, and then doing a boil/ISO clean of the cart. Black residue building up inside of it will only cause it to work against you, clogging the ceramic and making it more difficult for concentrate to melt through.

Ideally use a different concentrate for it. Something blonder in color, shatters and clearer oils work well, CO2 and Pure Gold if you can find them work quite well. Waxes also work. You want something that leaves minimal/no residue on a foil/melt taste to see very good performance. The concentrate should not be used before purging more, as the sizzling concerns me. Perhaps a few more hot water purges would do it some good.
 

Deadhead101

I am the Vapor King--I can do anything
Thanks, Q. I'll stop using this oil until I purge it further. I'm on the East Coast, and this oil connect is the only one I have at the moment, so I'm hoping I'll be able to repurge and run this oil through a freshly cleaned Revo.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks, Q. I'll stop using this oil until I purge it further. I'm on the East Coast, and this oil connect is the only one I have at the moment, so I'm hoping I'll be able to repurge and run this oil through a freshly cleaned Revo.

The foil test says your barking up the wrong tree. Purging may well fix the minor issue of poor purging, but the root cause of your problem is the poor quality. Too much 'plant junk' has been extracted, the dark junk (hydrocarbons for the most part, heavy on the carbon part.....) is where it doesn't belong (we wanted it to stay behind in the extraction).

The Q man has it right, again. You really want to clean up the concentrate, not just purge it.....or get really used to cleaning that cart.

Good luck.

OF
 

Deadhead101

I am the Vapor King--I can do anything
Yeah I'm going to look for a new source of BHO. At least now I am a little more schooled in picking apart the good Earl from the bad.:)

I'm also going to clean out the Revo. So everything makes a little more sense now: I was originally getting some big fat clouds because the vape was still relatively clean at that point, then once I started packing more and more dabs, it got clogged, and now it's just :ugh:.
 

StickyShisha2

Well-Known Member
my Rev isn't getting as clean as it used to.
You know the slight burned or smokey taste the it gets after a week or 2 of heavy use?
Cleaning it always got rid of that until now.
 
StickyShisha2,

OF

Well-Known Member
my Rev isn't getting as clean as it used to.
You know the slight burned or smokey taste the it gets after a week or 2 of heavy use?
Cleaning it always got rid of that until now.

Have you tried a 20/20/20 burn on it? Heavy medicine, but it usually fixes this issue. I like to clean it as well as I can before hand....and then again afterwards for good measure. I want any ash washed out, not incorporated into the next load.

Good luck.

OF
 
OF,

StickyShisha2

Well-Known Member
no i haven't.
i always worried about burning out the element the way my friend burned out a new one with improper loading
 
StickyShisha2,

OF

Well-Known Member
no i haven't.
i always worried about burning out the element the way my friend burned out a new one with improper loading

If the taste is causing problem, I suggest you try. Stick to 20 on with 20 off between and you should be fine. If there is an accident, they have plenty of parts to rebuild it under warranty. They are designed for the ability to do these burns when needed.

You call of course, but it's an approved cleaning technique.

OF
 

VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
So a few days back, I said my new Revolution core didn't get as hot as my old one.
At first vapor was kickin from this little guy. about 15 loads later vapor started to reduce. (I was using pure co2 tahoe og wax) it was of the highest grade I've seen from a dispensary. So I actually repositioned the ceramic wafer and then vapor was flowing again.
Next day, weak hits, changed batts, (fresh batts) and did a 20/20/20 then loaded more (.15) and still weak vapor.
Iso and boiling now.
What puzles me, is my new core takes about 2 minutes to FULLY heat up as opposed to my old core that takes around 20 seconds.

STUMPED
 
VapoRoor,

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Sounds like somethings wrong uh ohh

Wish i could be of further help. It may he clogged still even after iso/boil. You could try the tubing and iso trick? Take about a foot of tubing, tie a knot in the center, place the dart in one side and some iso in the tubing and connect the two ends together so they seal. And squish the iso back and forth
 

VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
Sounds like somethings wrong uh ohh

Wish i could be of further help. It may he clogged still even after iso/boil. You could try the tubing and iso trick? Take about a foot of tubing, tie a knot in the center, place the dart in one side and some iso in the tubing and connect the two ends together so they seal. And squish the iso back and forth
Thanks mud, I tried pushing the battery sleeve up (With battery inside) and screwing the adapter on at the same time & things got goin MUCH faster. I'm now positive it was a bad connection due to the adapter interface.
Anyone know if those black power insulated adapters are still available from TET?
 
VapoRoor,

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
You'll have to send it in I think, but I was figuring it was a connection issue. Try the little foil ball trick if you need to. TET replaced my switch not too long ago, and @kingofnull had his serviced soon after mine iirc.
 
Quetzalcoatl,

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks mud, I tried pushing the battery sleeve up (With battery inside) and screwing the adapter on at the same time & things got goin MUCH faster. I'm now positive it was a bad connection due to the adapter interface.

Actually this is a known thing. The switch floats in the adapter body to allow different lengths of carts to function. If you go from a longer one to a shorter one you need to reset the switch. Going to a longer one just moves it back then the former cart has troubles.

Take the adapter piece off the battery and cart off of it. Then pull the switch out the back, grab the spring loaded button with your nails and pull it back or poke it out from the cart side with a matchstick or
something. Then pry the ring that holds it out. Then put the ring back in, seating it all the way down, either pushing it with a stick or (what I do) invert the switch temporally and use the wide end to do it. Nest seat the switch as far in as it will go in the normal direction. Now screw the cart back on, it will push the switch out against the ring as it screws home. Then put the lot back on the battery tube and you're good to go. From then on (until you change size again) the ring will shift enough to take care of heating and cooling and other such issues.

OF
 

Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Thanks mud, I tried pushing the battery sleeve up (With battery inside) and screwing the adapter on at the same time & things got goin MUCH faster. I'm now positive it was a bad connection due to the adapter interface.
Anyone know if those black power insulated adapters are still available from TET?
You could also try taking the switch out from the adapter interface and making sure the oring is as far down as it can go and then replacing the switch sometimes the switch/oring get pushed up


Whoops didnt see OF beat me to it with a more detailed response
 
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Mynameismud,
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VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
Actually this is a known thing. The switch floats in the adapter body to allow different lengths of carts to function. If you go from a longer one to a shorter one you need to reset the switch. Going to a longer one just moves it back then the former cart has troubles.

Take the adapter piece off the battery and cart off of it. Then pull the switch out the back, grab the spring loaded button with your nails and pull it back or poke it out from the cart side with a matchstick or
something. Then pry the ring that holds it out. Then put the ring back in, seating it all the way down, either pushing it with a stick or (what I do) invert the switch temporally and use the wide end to do it. Nest seat the switch as far in as it will go in the normal direction. Now screw the cart back on, it will push the switch out against the ring as it screws home. Then put the lot back on the battery tube and you're good to go. From then on (until you change size again) the ring will shift enough to take care of heating and cooling and other such issues.

OF
I meant as opposed to sending my switch in I'd probably buy another, As to OF That was super detailed I almost didn't understand it :ko:
Thanks Mud and OF
I am surprisingly getting MAGNIFICENT results when using a skewer to collect oil and sort of 'dab' it onto the ceramic and put the dart tip on. Reminds me of a mini oven thats baking concentrate cookies (Smells sooo gooood!) :dog:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I meant as opposed to sending my switch in I'd probably buy another,

Thanks Mud and OF

You're welcome. I wouldn't rush out and buy another switch, I don't think there's anything wrong with it. Didn't you say it works properly with a different DART? To me that says it has to be switch position....reset it.

OF
 

VapoRoor

DAB-a-DAB I'll dooooo
Okay, here is an update on my OLD Dart core
I ran around 10 grams total of BHO through this Core (medium grade)
"Washed" 4 times

I stated it was "GUNKED UP!"
&
It was! (zero vapor from loading up .2 or .1 or .15 wax, I Mean zero vapor for every variable! basically zero airflow!)

My methods before involved:
  • boiling 20 minutes
  • 3 hour iso soak (70% iso)
  • 20 min. boil
  • air dry for a day

Outcome = didn't work very well (I repeated this process about 10 times throughout its lifespan)

New method


  • Buy 91 or 99% ISO (I think it was darkrom who persuaded me to buy 91% or 99% ISO from his recent post in the Cera Thread)
  • Boiled for 20 minutes 4 times (10 minute "cooling period" in between boils)
  • In between boiling I used a skewer to scrape out the gunk
  • (Worked well! JUST BE CAREFUL, NOT A LOT OF DOWNFORCE PRESSURE, JUST SCRAPE AT AN ANGLE and use a light to see what you're doing)
  • Popped the Dart into a bag of 91% ISO, then I dipped the bag in and out of some warm-hot water then left it in there for around an hour, (THANKS TO Krazzykid for this tip!) keep an extra amount of warm water at hand
  • IMPORTANT (NOT BOILING water and not while the burners are on!) Do this away from the stove if you can)
  • Shake bag and move the DART around, basically agitating it
  • One last 20 minute boil
Results

I popped in a fresh battery, Engaged the switch and heard no oil heating up or anything, took a test puff and got extremely harsh vapor. I had loosened up the gunked material from my cleaning method so well and my core worked so well it vaporized the black leftovers on the ceramic when I inhaled and I can now see the WHITE ceramic. After that harsh hit there was NO MORE Vapor and it was just warm air now. So I wasn't vaping nasty oil left over, it was the gunked material on the ceramic floor plate! I took off my mp and dart tip and my core was glowing orange in the middle, not the outsides just the middle. So the residue just basically disappeared!
I have a feeling a 20/20/20 burn with one more boil will rid all of the black residue.

Thanks for reading ! :tup:
 
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druminfected

Well-Known Member
Who here would want the dart to come back?

Tim


Me me me! +3 from other friends I asked as well




My EO Cores not giving me much vape production at all these days and I've cleaned it via iso and boiling a few times already. I think ill soak it in iso overnight and see if that helps. Sucks I only can find 70% iso too :/

I wonder if using a waterpik inside the CEO core help after boiling?
 
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