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Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
Hope you're at least able to tool around a little bit. Congrats on letting her set the initiative, lol! You sound like a smooth operator! :tup:
 
TommydCat,

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Hope you're at least able to tool around a little bit. Congrats on letting her set the initiative, lol! You sound like a smooth operator! :tup:
Growing up being a surfer gives you a counter culture perceptive.

I design and build things all the time still.
Before I did the work myself.
Now I know who the good trades men are and delegate the labor to them.
I just use my brain instead of my back!
 

poonman

Well-Known Member
Hey people , quick question please ;
After checking for the red light in an empty 1.5 cart .
I loaded 0.7 budda/wax into it .
After cooling down , I started to hit it .
But no vapors !!!

I can feel the cart getting hot and feel a clear air path .
But just no vapors .
What is the problem ?

Anyone ?
Bueller ?
 
poonman,
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Atomsk

Floating In My Tin Can
Hey people , quick question please ;
After checking for the red light in an empty 1.5 cart .
I loaded 0.7 budda/wax into it .
After cooling down , I started to hit it .
But no vapors !!!

I can feel the cart getting hot and feel a clear air path .
But just no vapors .
What is the problem ?

Anyone ?
Bueller ?

First off, never do that light check again. It's safer to just fill a dead cart than to check if a cart's dead. You'll find yourself with a lot of issues if you keep doing it. If you still feel the cart heating, then I'm guessing it's because you're hitting too hard.

Try hitting slow and gentle, you should start to feel the hot air (vapor) hit your tongue after about 2-3 seconds hitting. Never hold your button down longer than 3-6 seconds w/ a 1.5.

If that doesn't work, try reheating the sides again and letting it cool down. Might be that the wax hasn't dripped all the way down and you've just been dry burning your cart.

Also try not to load more than .6. You will probably have a little trouble with clogging, but not so terrible as to need a new cart.
 
Atomsk,
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poonman

Well-Known Member
First off, never do that light check again. It's safer to just fill a dead cart than to check if a cart's dead. You'll find yourself with a lot of issues if you keep doing it. If you still feel the cart heating, then I'm guessing it's because you're hitting too hard.

Try hitting slow and gentle, you should start to feel the hot air (vapor) hit your tongue after about 2-3 seconds hitting. Never hold your button down longer than 3-6 seconds w/ a 1.5.

If that doesn't work, try reheating the sides again and letting it cool down. Might be that the wax hasn't dripped all the way down and you've just been dry burning your cart.

Also try not to load more than .6. You will probably have a little trouble with clogging, but not so terrible as to need a new cart.

Wow , Why not ?
I was told to do that light check thing first. dang !!!
Because the first cart arrived dead , so I was explained to ...do that first .
and I was told/read to load more than 0.5 but less than 1.0 g .

Can I load less than 0.5 at a time ?

I'll try to reload that same cart later and get the budda to melt all the way down .
But I thought I did that , and I had no problem with the other 1.5 cart I was using .
So I just empty the bad cart into the working one . But I'm sure a little budda was lost or still inside
the bad cart . dang again !!!

tia
 
poonman,

Atomsk

Floating In My Tin Can
So checking the light is both a way to see if the cart is live and to burn off any remaining factory oils. This step is nonessential. This step was originally intended to check carts and get rid of the bad taste they sometimes have, but it's more risk than reward. Any time you have the cart heating up without wax to lubricate it, you run the risk of just frying the cart. It gets too hot too quick, you'll have a dead cart any way.

No, don't load less. You get the most from a cart when you load at least .5 but no greater than .6. You use your cart until the oil left is about .2-.3 then you load back up to .5.

There's a method for near completely reclaiming your wax. Gotta remove the shaft piece at the top of the unit, the remove the silicone looking cups at the bottom.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that, OF. No store had the exact sizes, but I found one very close to the -009 that's working well.

Yer welcome, Bro. No substitute for success you know.

You know what they say, "Only Engineers sweat the last 10%". I say use it in good health.....

Driving with stuff in my car makes me nervous.
Since I sold my assets and moved out of the factory I now have two sets of medical devices at home.

Hey, not a problem. I can help you out here, just PM me and I'll tell you where to send the spare set.

No need to thank me, I'm sure were the situation be reversed you'd step up too.

Hey people , quick question please ;
After checking for the red light in an empty 1.5 cart .

After cooling down , I started to hit it .
But no vapors !!!

I can feel the cart getting hot and feel a clear air path .

Sorry you're having troubles, but Atomsk is right IMO. Don't do 'dry burns'. You can't always see the heater in question (asking for trouble when you hang on the button looking) and there's a second heater (just as important) you can't see anyway. More guys get into trouble with dry burns than improve stuff I'm sure.

You should also be learning on 2.4 Ohm carts, 1.5s are too hard to control well. Master the 2.4s (they really are plenty powerful if used right) first, then think about more power. Burnt oil and leaking seals await otherwise.

Now to the issue. Dollars to doughnuts if the cart's still good you blew the loading by not preheating the center section enough before melting the goods down. The barely melted concentrate hit the cold walls below and stalled out, trapping an air bubble below. The center section has to be hotter than the melted goods, think about it. The wicks are dry. You've probably burned the seals around them but you can still try to salvage it if you're brave.

OK to try to save the day, hold the cart at the bottom, with the bottom 1/3 between fingers and thumb. Rotate it to heat evenly as you heat just above your fingers. From the 1/2 to 2/3 part. Keep it moving. You want it warm but not too hot to comfortably hold down low (where the seals are). Ideally you'll feel a rapid rise in temperature as hot oil drops down. This same 'witness' should also happen in a normal load if you've done the preheat right.

Otherwise, as Atmosk says time to pull the connector center out and punch the insides up and out the top of the tube to reclaim as much as possible. Some guys just upend and melt out what they can and abandon the last .2 or so. Again, I'd get and refill with 2.4s, 1.5s can be a tough way to learn to drive 'em without crashing.

OF
 

hansdampf

Member
on the d9v site,

MUST BE OXIDIZED PRIOR TO USE

so that is not necessary? no more metallic taste in the cartridges?

good to know..thanks
 
hansdampf,

OF

Well-Known Member
on the d9v site,

MUST BE OXIDIZED PRIOR TO USE

so that is not necessary? no more metallic taste in the cartridges?

good to know..thanks

Yes it does, no it's not, that's the general consensus. The major taste issue before (that got this all started) was oils and stuff (not metal) that are now removed by improved washing in process and not putting 'protective coatings' on the wicks.

You're welcome, good luck.

OF
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Wow , Why not ?
I was told to do that light check thing first. dang !!!
Because the first cart arrived dead , so I was explained to ...do that first .
and I was told/read to load more than 0.5 but less than 1.0 g .

Can I load less than 0.5 at a time ?

I'll try to reload that same cart later and get the budda to melt all the way down .
But I thought I did that , and I had no problem with the other 1.5 cart I was using .
So I just empty the bad cart into the working one . But I'm sure a little budda was lost or still inside
the bad cart . dang again !!!

tia
pooman you are lucky to have Atomask and OF helping you.

I have to say get some 2.4 carts AND ENJOY!
My water path 2.4 cart is so good.
I don't understand the people who don't find this enough?
I have another 2 empty carts (Brand New).
However my current 2.4 cart is so good I will just stick to it.
4th gear @ 126 miles per and the TACHOMETER reads 3,500!
I add 0.2 grams when I get down to 0.3 grams.
0.5 is what I top off to.
Since "OF" taught me how to use my PERSEI with 2.4 carts I'm getting the proper medication required!

By the way I never pre-burn a cart prior to loading.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I have another 2 empty carts (Brand New).
However my current 2.4 cart is so good I will just stick to it.
4th gear @ 126 miles per and the TACHOMETER reads 3,500!
I add 0.2 grams when I get down to 0.3 grams.
0.5 is what I top off to.

Gotta love it. 3.5 grand in top gear? Cool cruising for sure.

I think 2.4 are plenty for most guys (once mastered), an an excellent base for the rest. For over a year, 2.4s were all there were and we did pretty darn good......

OF
 
OF,
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poonman

Well-Known Member
I'd picked up 2 g of Budda for that exact reason .
Will do on the 2.4 cart trials .
PV gave me a mix of both in the 5 cart combo pack .
I also want to give a shout out and thanx to " R " from PV .
He was quite helpful when we spoke on the phone and thru e-mails regarding newbie problems .
That's correct , I had PV on the phone , now that's what I call Customer Service .
Of course it was a local call tho , so maybe don't expect that one all the time .
Thumbs up to PV .:tup:
 

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
Having some fun results with the 5.0 ohm carts... Plop in the 6v batteries and they're fairly safe to hand to a friend without fear of him or her frying it, and it gives a silky smooth hit for most, though a few waxes don't seem to want to give up much at that voltage.

Thinking my next carton will be 4.0 ohmers that I want to see if they'll go at 3.7v, like a softer 2.4, cruise at 6v and turbo at 7.2v (sparingly or dual-wielding). If the 5.0 ohmers had some life at 3.7v, I'd be set, so it appears I got to dial it in a bit. First-world problems, ya know! ;)
 
TommydCat,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Having some fun results with the 5.0 ohm carts... Plop in the 6v batteries and they're fairly safe to hand to a friend without fear of him or her frying it, and it gives a silky smooth hit for most, though a few waxes don't seem to want to give up much at that voltage.

Thinking my next carton will be 4.0 ohmers that I want to see if they'll go at 3.7v, like a softer 2.4, cruise at 6v and turbo at 7.2v (sparingly or dual-wielding). If the 5.0 ohmers had some life at 3.7v, I'd be set, so it appears I got to dial it in a bit. First-world problems, ya know! ;)
I don't like to make predictions however I'm waiting the for the IRIS V2 because I believe the 5.0 carts paired with 2 x 18350's set at 6.8V's will be my combination.

Fun to find out anyway!

In the meantime 2.4 cart through my Bubbler is pretty good actually!
 

kittyboy

Well-Known Member
on the d9v site,

MUST BE OXIDIZED PRIOR TO USE

so that is not necessary? no more metallic taste in the cartridges?

good to know..thanks


yea I wish someone would change that as I pre fired all my carts and none of them ever tasted right.
One reason I get tired of reading all the posts and then Delta never changes the directions.. Not sure why.

Also did they ever announce what persei owners of non serial numbers get? been over 6 months since that was mentioned.....

I have gone back to the t-swing set up as it more efficient and tastier.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
yea I wish someone would change that as I pre fired all my carts and none of them ever tasted right.
One reason I get tired of reading all the posts and then Delta never changes the directions.. Not sure why.

I agree with you. From what I know, I think it's be best if it was removed too. There could, of course, be something we don't know in play here, that would be nice to know so we can do what's best.

For now, most seem to agree that it wrecks carts and causes far more problems than it fixes. While you're justifiably tired of reading about it, I'm getting very tired of explaining over and over and over to disappointed new guys why that's probably not a good idea. I understand I take that on voluntarily, but IMO it needs to be explained so the new guys don't waste their time and money and wonder off in disgust. If I wasn't trying to help, I'd hope someone else would be.

Those few words are causing lots of problems and expense.

If it really is necessary to oxidize them one has to wonder why this necessary step isn't done an manufacture? Why should it be left for end users to do in a fairly haphazard manner that so often brings bad results.

Perhaps if we ask nicely enough G or someone 'there' can remove this problematic advice or tell us why it should still be done routinely so we can stop giving out bad advice?

OF
 

Drastic

Vape4Life
So just got started with omi carts. I have o-phos so im using 1.5 and 2.4.

Few questions.
1) I can't rly see the glow from the 2.4, only at like 5-6 sec i see a tinny glow in the center, they do get warm. Is that how its supposed to be of is the cart dead?
2)So I started with the 1.5ohm, the guy at D9V in Van Nuys told me to per-oxidize, 5 times for 5 sec, let it cool in between. Ive been reading a few pages and my head is spinning and I see OF's is spinning explaining it over and over. That cart now tastes awful, ruined the nice bubba i had. Did I ruin the cart by per-oxidizing(and I made sure that puppy was gooood and oxidized)? Is that why Im getting bad taste?

Thanks for any advice for the new guy
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
That cart now tastes awful, ruined the nice bubba i had. Did I ruin the cart by per-oxidizing(and I made sure that puppy was gooood and oxidized)? Is that why Im getting bad taste?

Thanks for any advice for the new guy

Sadly, I fear that's exactly the case. You might get some comfort in knowing it's a common experience and easy enough to avoid in the future if you feel so inclined.

If you've been following my rants, you know the drill. Don't dry burn ever, load half a gram at the start being careful to correctly preheat the center section, reload at .2 or so above dry weight (weigh each cart first, they differ), stick to concentrates that pass the foil test, look for lighter colors and don't mess with anything but 2.4 Ohm carts until you master them.

Happy trails are just ahead, round the next bend, partner.

OF
 
OF,

k3nd4l

Well-Known Member
well since no Hercules will be here for 420 I decided I might as well splurge a bit. got 2 waxes for 5.0 carts & another wax for the 2.4 cart on the way .. also considering buying aw batteries but haven't fully commited yet

are they really that much better than the ultrafire ?
 
k3nd4l,

k3nd4l

Well-Known Member
Best way to fly with filled cart? Thought I read somewhere in here that you cant turn them upside down... Was thinking of getting some of these to make sure no smell was getting out, but cant guarantee they wont get thrown around.

http://www.planetvape.ca/vaporizer-accessories/storage/travel-tubes.html

I got the doob tubes from planetvape and they work great for smell containment. & are the perfect size for a cart + mouthpiece
also I don't think there's a problem w. the carts being upside down if there not in use/hot unless you have really runny wax ?
mine didn't have a problem at least
 
k3nd4l,

OF

Well-Known Member
Best way to fly with filled cart? Thought I read somewhere in here that you cant turn them upside down... Was thinking of getting some of these to make sure no smell was getting out, but cant guarantee they wont get thrown around.

http://www.planetvape.ca/vaporizer-accessories/storage/travel-tubes.html

I'd suggest these instead, smaller and very handy:
http://www.planetvape.ca/doob-tubes.html

If your goods are thick enough there's no problem turning them upside down, but to be sure put the little white doughnut plug that everyone throws away back in for the trip, that's what it's for.

OF
 
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