farmerpalmersnt
Well-Known Member
It doesn't. The driptech style of pressing does. The question of parchment is just whether it's necessary when using driptech.
Dabpress Rosin Plates
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It doesn't. The driptech style of pressing does. The question of parchment is just whether it's necessary when using driptech.
Some rosineers also don't like the idea of silicone at all, so the thought of using parchment paper is out of the question.
FWIW I don't fall into that camp. I actually enjoy the convenience of parchment paper, but if collection is not your thing, driptech w/o parchment will get you most of the way there minus loss of yields stuck on the plates. Collecting a big glob is a lot more time friendly than potential flying bits and super sap stuck on parchment!
I would say this is definitely not the method for those who have a tight budget or supply, or even those who are pressing small loads like 3.5g or less. IME it's still TBD the optimal load size but I'm starting to think >7g. Once I get my workflow down I'll have a better idea. Only 3 drip tech pressess in so far with a lil over 3/4 oz buds.
FWIW I don't fall into that camp. I actually enjoy the convenience of parchment paper, but if collection is not your thing, driptech w/o parchment will get you most of the way there minus loss of yields stuck on the plates. Collecting a big glob is a lot more time friendly than potential flying bits and super sap stuck on parchment!
I would say this is definitely not the method for those who have a tight budget or supply, or even those who are pressing small loads like 3.5g or less. IME it's still TBD the optimal load size but I'm starting to think >7g. Once I get my workflow down I'll have a better idea. Only 3 drip tech pressess in so far with a lil over 3/4 oz buds.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
I have to give DabPress great credit. I have a USA made press and its very, very nice..hard to make one better...but I can't see anybody in the USA touching DabPress' offering of quality and features for an unbeatable price.
I do have DabPresses cylindrical pre-press and its a very well made product for a lot less than others were asking for similar.
I just had to acknowledge the reality of the situation! haha
Cheers all
I do have DabPresses cylindrical pre-press and its a very well made product for a lot less than others were asking for similar.
I just had to acknowledge the reality of the situation! haha
Cheers all
Thanks @Baron23 appreciate your feedback! As you may not know, our new drip tech units are not very profitable for us but it's important to bring the products to the customers, and Roger had made a promise on the price before release and stress testing. The linear bearings that we ended up using for the steel rods were more expensive than the original ones we used so the margin on both of these units dropped a lot.
I am not sure if going forward new innovations will be as cheap but they will still be attractive. Roger's goal has always been to save rosineers money, and right now there is a focus on quality as that's always a concern when buying China made equipment.
I am not sure if going forward new innovations will be as cheap but they will still be attractive. Roger's goal has always been to save rosineers money, and right now there is a focus on quality as that's always a concern when buying China made equipment.
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
@psychonaut and @dabpress.com, I asked this before but unfortunately got no reply.
What size have the plates of the new caged commercial plates?
And what will be the measures of the whole setup?
What size have the plates of the new caged commercial plates?
And what will be the measures of the whole setup?
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Let us wait for Roger's reply, I haven't the exact details but I know he was looking at 4x7" caged. I presume it will be similar size to the dp-rp257 pro which TBH is quite a large footprint on the shop press work plate, takes up nearly the depth.
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
Thanks, I think the size should depend on the amount you want to make it suited for and the optimally arranged footprints of the pre-pressed herbs. 4x7? Seems to be not the largest one?
What do you intend for what amount of herbs for a squish at the same time shall it be suited for?
And which pressure shall the plates stand?
What do you intend for what amount of herbs for a squish at the same time shall it be suited for?
And which pressure shall the plates stand?
I was talking more the footprint of the actual press cage frame itself, it'd be about 6" deep quite a large footprint.
All things being equal, if 3x5" is large enough for 28g of buds when put in the right size pre-press mold @ 15 sq/in, and 4x7 at 28 sq/in, I am gonna venture a guess as about 42g of buds? Would surely require a very heavy duty shop press to maximize capabilities with buds.
That or process into sift or hash first. Commercial operations would likely benefit from that to procure a smaller shop press, say 20-tons to handle pressure needed for more delicate pressing material. Money savings going from 30-40t to 20t could be invested in tumblers.
So I am planning to build a press with some dabpress plates. I am going to pull the trigger on the 3x5 micron bags and a prepress mold. I am wondering if anybody has reccomendations for a good press from harbor freight. Thinking of going with there 6 ton A frame for now and upgrading if I enjoy pressing as have never even tried rosin. Have a quick few other questions, does drip tech only work on certain presses? What amount of bud could I press with a 3x5 6 Ton? Sorry to ask pretty new to rosin and going to read thread soon but want to get stuff ordered ASAP! Thanks everyone
Thanks @Hogni !
Yes our blog is a solid resource for information. So is our very own FC Rosin thread here.
Personally for the 6-ton A-frame press from HF, I wouldn't recommend over a 3x3" plates with it. Reason being, you can typically pick up a 12-ton H-frame press for just a little bit more during discount times at harbor freight. That would really pair better with 3x5 or larger plates. We often see them on sale for $80-100
If you dont mind potentially losing money on a A-frame press if you do eventually decide to upgrade, then by all means it's about the cheapest way to get heavy duty pressure. A-frame construction is not as solid as H-frame, so also keep that in mind.
Thank you for your interest in our products!
Yes our blog is a solid resource for information. So is our very own FC Rosin thread here.
Personally for the 6-ton A-frame press from HF, I wouldn't recommend over a 3x3" plates with it. Reason being, you can typically pick up a 12-ton H-frame press for just a little bit more during discount times at harbor freight. That would really pair better with 3x5 or larger plates. We often see them on sale for $80-100
If you dont mind potentially losing money on a A-frame press if you do eventually decide to upgrade, then by all means it's about the cheapest way to get heavy duty pressure. A-frame construction is not as solid as H-frame, so also keep that in mind.
Thank you for your interest in our products!
I would use a cylinder mold pm3015r for <7g, 2x4" pm4007s mold is more designed for 10-14g buds and 3x5" plates or larger. Both pre-press molds use the same size filter 2x4".
When using pm3015r, the puck will be almost 2" in diameter, will fit quite well in 3x3" area, or you could just stuff the filters w/o a mold and customize the puck size to suit your needs.
Zow237
Well-Known Member
so with the cylinder molds how much will i be able to fit without a bag? Thanks all for any advice in adavnce
so with the cylinder molds how much will i be able to fit without a bag? Thanks all for any advice in adavnce
It depends on your buds, fluffy cultivars may be around 5-6g and more dense cultivars 7g-8g. Without a filter you will have more expansion on the puck, so it will flatten out more than the 2" diameter you'll get when using a 2x4" filter with the cylinder mold.
The opening between the plates is 1.25" so however much you can cram into the mold that's not any taller than say 1.20"
Baron23
Well-Known Member
+1 Its a very nice pre-press mold, I own one.
Zow237
Well-Known Member
https://www.dabpress.com/20138731/c...34867.1542479831&discount=BA_20f55a700a862f72
Checked out and now i wait.
Checked out and now i wait
.
CastIronHits
Slightly Crispy
IMO using nonstick paper, and the quality of that paper, has been the game changer for my press runs. My last runs have used Oil Slick paper and the difference from food service paper is incredible. The local commercial rosin pressers use this paper and since the local rosin is lab tested, I would assume there is no silicone present in their final material. The precut 10"x10" sheets are great for doing the z-fold pouch @Hackerman shows in his video for the DP-BJ3T33, the press I'm using. I lost so much rosin on my first few presses due to bad paper, not again. I grab the factory seconds paper since I'm going to fold them anyways, their like $5 for 250 presses!
Did you guys ever come up with a solution that allowed the BJ3T33 to sit horizontally? Extra stub legs to attach to the bottom legs etc? Seeing the 10ton has made me envious.
Did you guys ever come up with a solution that allowed the BJ3T33 to sit horizontally? Extra stub legs to attach to the bottom legs etc? Seeing the 10ton has made me envious.
It would be extremely unlikely that the analytical lab is testing for silicone.
It's probably great paper for pressing rosin though.
I did a lil squish for yall with 10g in 160u filter using 40mm pre-press mold, no parchment using drip tech on hr10t35v with the strongway pump. This was requested by @Abysmal Vapor
I hope it helps, I will probably try this again but I think there is a benefit to the parchemtn perhaps in temperatures the rosin is making contact with, so I am starting to wonder about lowering the temps further as there is no "air" or paper insulation between the heated plate and the rosin clung inbetween the plates.
On the other hand the rosin does mostly leave the plates which is why I think parchment is probably still the best solution yield wise. @Hackerman's method of cutting the paper close to the plates is a good idea but if you cut too close you'll have some rosin lipstick around the edges of the plates. After squishing, separate the rosin into two different grades, driptech grade and parchment grade. I have noticed with my driptech presses the rosin really seems to have more of that nose burn which I've always attributed to terpene content, or at least specific terpenes. Had some coughs too so folks if you're sensitive, just understand it may not be a benefit for you using drip tech.
I hope it helps, I will probably try this again but I think there is a benefit to the parchemtn perhaps in temperatures the rosin is making contact with, so I am starting to wonder about lowering the temps further as there is no "air" or paper insulation between the heated plate and the rosin clung inbetween the plates.
On the other hand the rosin does mostly leave the plates which is why I think parchment is probably still the best solution yield wise. @Hackerman's method of cutting the paper close to the plates is a good idea but if you cut too close you'll have some rosin lipstick around the edges of the plates. After squishing, separate the rosin into two different grades, driptech grade and parchment grade. I have noticed with my driptech presses the rosin really seems to have more of that nose burn which I've always attributed to terpene content, or at least specific terpenes. Had some coughs too so folks if you're sensitive, just understand it may not be a benefit for you using drip tech.
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farmerpalmersnt
Well-Known Member
It's often pinene I think. I know what you mean. I've had some rosin that I've actually found improved by warming for 10 mins. You can always remove terps if it's too much but less convenient to put them back! I do have a load of terps from THCA isolation on my press I've used for stuff with less flavour.