Ascent Vaporizer by DaVinci

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
For me there seems to be a better seal using the GonG or WonG. Using the "glass flowers" gives great vapor and clouds without filling up the oven with herb. The glass flowers are actually glass pipe screens.

I realize there is a lot of info but try to take some time to read about 25 pages. Some is even a pretty good read.:cool:
 
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Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
What does it mean to fix my vapor/air ratio? I hear that I can sip straight from the gong too, meaning more vapor less air? The original glass stems worked well for me but assume the gong will give me more vapor

The Davinci Ascent uses two pieces of glass for the "vapor path" - the "inner stem" and the retractable "outer stem" - the gap between the two pieces allows cool air to flow into the vapor path. This results in very weak/small clouds.

By using a GonG or WonG adapter as a mouthpiece, you will close off the vapor path (noticeable change in draw restriction when hitting the vape). This increases the vapor density of your hits (you'll blow larger clouds).

When forced to use the standard retractable glass mouthpiece (road trips), I typically pull the stem out just enough to get my lips around the glass to reduce the amount of cool air entering the vapor path.

*NOTE - the diameter of the glass stems vary! You can mix and match your spare glass to find which pair of inner and outer stems have the smallest gap - this will help, but not as much as closing off the vapor path completely with a GonG or WonG *
 
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virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
I have pulled the trigger and ordered a new Ascent to replace the one that broke months back. I am very happy with my Haze, but I know my girlfriend prefers the Ascent and I love having a variety, so I decided she would forgive the purchase.

Can't wait to have this old friend back in the arsenal!
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
hey all.
well 2 out of 3 ain't bad...
was able to get the white material out of the bowl rim with some flat nosed tweezers.
cornwalis thinks it is insulation...glad it is gone.
was able to connect to charger and charged for 12 hours.
only thing i struck out on was trying to get the brown stains in the bowl clean...
iso on Qtips twice didn't do anything, will probably leave for now and see if the
upcoming burn-offs remove it. really want to like this vape.
as always thank you to all you fellow fc'ers for all your help and advice, it always
helps to have lots of brains working on a problem and this forum rocks at that! :rockon:

Reviews @ Magic Eraser seem to be popular re: cleaning what ISO can't

handle :nod:
 

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
I'm with @Ratchett before I bought the GonG I only had my stock stem out enough to draw from maybe an inch and a half. It felt to me like I was getting a better draw that way.

Then somebody suggested using the GonG or WonG so I first bought the GonG. I bought two mouthpieces from @Ed's TnT. One is a replica of the original stem made of wood with the 2 piece and I bought a WonG. Lately I've been using the WonG.

I did just buy some glass from Davinci during their sale. They will come the end of the week. It never hurts to stock up during a sale.:)
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
Really serious owners get the tip of one finger ground down to fit. Usually a 'pinky'.

For the less dedicated grab a small piece of it with your hemostats (since you no longer need a roach clip.....), with some sticking out the end and have at it. Very traditional trick. Also works well with steel wool.

Or, use scissors to cut a narrow strip a few inches long and stuff that down a plastic straw with a wooden match or bamboo skewer until some sticks out the end far enough. Then pinch the straw (holding the stick so the pad can't back up the tube) and scrub away?

OF


Will not the steel wool hav a neg effect on oven walls ,which are supposed to be

delicately coated ?? :hmm:


Yes, it's an additional hassle (although IMO not a huge one if you work on your technique), but it does significantly improve performance......or thinking folks wouldn't continue to use them. We would only continue to use them if we thought the benefit outweighed the hassle.

And of course you don't have to used them all the time. I suspect few, if any, do. It's just an option.

But they are cheap and reported effective by other Members. IMO you should try them personally and see?



Agreed, it works OK as shipped, it just works better this way? How much better, and is it worth the effort are questions owners should decide for themselves.

Let me ask up front: Have you actually tried them? If so, I think you're the first to have done so and not found them of value in at least some cases. Have you tried them at least a few times, and don't recommend others trying them as well? TIA

BTW, I think you've missed the point of the flowers. The goal is not to "to distribute heat" at all, the load is already uniformly at the same temperature before the hit starts by actual measurement. There is no 'extra heat' to distribute, the distribution is already as good as Thermodynamics will allow without them. The idea is to store additional heat in the load to make more vapor during the upcoming hit. More heat energy available for the hit without raising the temperature. Not a change in heat distribution (which is already excellent if you give it enough time to recover).



Good suggestion, a bit more awkward, but works fine. You can also just lay them on concrete, brick, ceramic or other 'fire proof surface' an torch it right there (flipping it over part way through). I use a bent safety pin to 'fish' mine out. I've been known to torch it right there with the pin poked through the mesh. The goal is to not burn yourself our the house down.

BTW since the mass is very low and the surface area high the screens cool in a few seconds.

OF


Surprisingly ,dipping in ISO works good/ fast
I mainly use the glass flowers to "thumbtack" the load in the bowl so I don't suck up particles through the mouthpiece. The heat conductivity is a bonus. I know others use a small piece of metal screen, I just prefer the glass flowers because of their conductivity.


Have found thumbtack approach beneficial ,and additionally use oval metal

screen between glass flowers/ glass filter just to make sure nothing gets past

them to mouth ;)
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Will not the steel wool hav a neg effect on oven walls ,which are supposed to be delicately coated ??

Careful not to take things out of context? The topic of discussion was 'how to use Magic Eraser, I gave a technique (holding a small piece in a tool) that also works with steel wool. I did not suggest steel wool for the job.

But, now that you bring it up, no I don't think steel wool is a threat to the glass coating. Less than the Magic Eraser at least. Mild steel is maybe two Mho points softer than most glass:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness

OTOH, there are reports of Magic Eraser scarring the tops of glass top stoves......check it out. That risk is real it seems (but not discussed here?). Caution is advised.

While steel wool is probably a safer abrasive to use, I don't recommend it here because some folks are not real good about following directions and the steel wool sheds steel fibers. Getting sloppy (as some guys no doubt would) could lead to all sorts of problems including inhaling some, which would probably safely oxidize (rust) away in time.....not a good thought and sure to freak out the straights in the cheap seats.

Instead I'm a fan of keeping it clean. I find cleaning it out while warm and the occasional q-tip (damp with ISO) keeps ahead of it nicely. I used to use toothpicks to keep the corners clean, then I stumbled onto 'orange wood sticks' like manicurists use, IMO 'just the ticket':
http://www.amazon.com/JOVANA-Cuticle-Remover-Manicure-Pedicure/dp/B00JYLVERO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420476823&sr=8-2&keywords=orange wood stick

OF
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
I just got my warenty replacement Ascent from GotVape,
I was sent a new boxed unit with all new accessories in box. Score!!
I had to pay shipping both ways, but I got 2 sets of stems, charger, and plastic bag of stuff. I thought it was quick service, I noted they shipped it out Sat.
I gave it a good charge, and in spite of the faint electronic fart taste I put the Ascent to work. I'll run a couple burnoffs tomorrow to clean up the taste. The Carbon Fiber is one pretty unit IMO. I am not going to let up on my silver Croc Skin. No sense babying this Ascent with a 18 month warenty left.
I am glad I didnot get a repaired unit, and the new gear was a nice score.

IMO ,owning '2" Ascents simultaneously affords longer life to both units if used

together ,intermittently ,thus actually putting use time @ 50% ea :tup::tup:



Careful not to take things out of context? The topic of discussion was 'how to use Magic Eraser, I gave a technique (holding a small piece in a tool) that also works with steel wool. I did not suggest steel wool for the job.

But, now that you bring it up, no I don't think steel wool is a threat to the glass coating. Less than the Magic Eraser at least. Mild steel is maybe two Mho points softer than most glass:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale_of_mineral_hardness

OTOH, there are reports of Magic Eraser scarring the tops of glass top stoves......check it out. That risk is real it seems (but not discussed here?). Caution is advised.

While steel wool is probably a safer abrasive to use, I don't recommend it here because some folks are not real good about following directions and the steel wool sheds steel fibers. Getting sloppy (as some guys no doubt would) could lead to all sorts of problems including inhaling some, which would probably safely oxidize (rust) away in time.....not a good thought and sure to freak out the straights in the cheap seats.

Instead I'm a fan of keeping it clean. I find cleaning it out while warm and the occasional q-tip (damp with ISO) keeps ahead of it nicely. I used to use toothpicks to keep the corners clean, then I stumbled onto 'orange wood sticks' like manicurists use, IMO 'just the ticket':
http://www.amazon.com/JOVANA-Cuticle-Remover-Manicure-Pedicure/dp/B00JYLVERO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420476823&sr=8-2&keywords=orange wood stick

OF


Thanks for tip on orange sticks ~ one thing @ FC ,if one doesn't pick up anything

on one post ,chances are ,sooner than later helpful hints will be available
 
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Silvercloud538,

cornwalis

Member
Don't want to aske this here but how long does it take to get an rma or an aw set on Warrenty issues seems to be a lil too long I'd like to no too why it's seems like my ceramic bowl has shifted away from the hinge side are they glued gasket gaps seem to be gettin bigger. Don't want piles of crud getting back their. That's why I can see than where that white feather material he had in his new unit I can see under my gasket on he one side ya.
The thing with the erase on glass tops it all the burn grime is like a heavy abrasive most pole don't wipe their stove off befor cleaning with glass top cleaner Wee use green scrub pads on pure stove 3 years old not a scratch sory to say but a lot ppl are dumb. Loss of power in winter do not heat you're house with bbq you'll die Country folk no this. City folk. Clue less to common sense
 
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cornwalis,

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
Just opened up a box from EDA, I'm really stoked to get this BEAUTY a try after work. I've been reading the thread so I know some good tips, but anyone got words of encouragement? I got lots of time before I can try it:bang:

Just recv'd my 2nd ~ BTW ,will '15 model read 3AA1 ?

Me put thermostat @ 400 for burnoff w/ @ half tank of batt supplied in unit ,'til

empty ,then exercised @ charging batt for 12 hrs ~ ;)
 
Silvercloud538,

MrNaturalAZ

Tree hugging dirt worshipper
I used to use toothpicks to keep the corners clean, then I stumbled onto 'orange wood sticks' like manicurists use, IMO 'just the ticket':
http://www.amazon.com/JOVANA-Cuticle-Remover-Manicure-Pedicure/dp/B00JYLVERO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420476823&sr=8-2&keywords=orange wood stick

How do those compare with bamboo skewers? I first discovered those when I found a couple of them included with a desktop vape for use, presumably, as stirring and screen removal/reinstallation tools.

I've since picked up a big bag of them at the grocery store - those are about twice the length of the ones that came with the desktop vape, but I find I can sharpen the other end and cut them in half. I now probably have a lifetime supply that cost me just a couple bucks.
 
MrNaturalAZ,
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cornwalis

Member
I tried those to I still sharpend them down to. the peice of wire I like more it fits in the pic holder and mit gets right in the holes of the stem mget right in their. As for spaces flat peice of glas with a spike and holed would work that spike would give you guls sure extra thermal mass once it heats up with a lil slot for the pick took ? You the could pack it loose and cried super fine Nice and. Fluff and tha disk spike hold it all in the right place wonder if the 311A changed
 
cornwalis,

KidFated.

Unknown Member
Who said there's a 3AA1? I don't think it'll change from 2aa1 to 3aa1 just because the year changed
 
KidFated.,

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Me put thermostat @ 400 for burnoff w/ @ half tank of batt supplied in unit ,'til empty ,then exercised @ charging batt for 12 hrs ~ ;)

Omf, personally I would never completely drain any rechargeable battery before the initial long charge.

For future reference, I personally only do a single short 5 minute burnoff at max temperature with every new battery powered vaporizer before I toss it on the charger for the initial charge.
 
Delta3DStudios,
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Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
@Ratchett ,why not drain ( exercize ) Li-ion ( not lead acid ) ~

My iZip Li-ion batt on bike gets drained / charged same manner ~ almost 5k mi on

orig batt :-)

As far as new code for '15 ,it's just logic since 1AA1 = '13 ;2AA! ='14 ;3AA1 = '15 ;)
 
Silvercloud538,

OF

Well-Known Member
How do those compare with bamboo skewers?

Considerably better I think. Bigger in diameter, shorter, more round, better points, softer wood (better for digging into corners), and the flattened end is quite useful.

I used to cut the best skewers in the pack and sand points on them, not any more. The orangewood sticks are superior in most every way.

OF
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Ratchett ,why not drain ( exercize ) Li-ion ( not lead acid ) ~

My iZip Li-ion batt on bike gets drained / charged same manner ~ almost 5k mi on

orig batt :-)

As far as new code for '15 ,it's just logic since 1AA1 = '13 ;2AA! ='14 ;3AA1 = '15 ;)

Just force of habit - sure Li-ion batteries are fine getting drained/recharged as desired. But I prefer not to deep cycle a battery which has been stored for extended periods of time without giving it a nice long charge.
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
Just force of habit - sure Li-ion batteries are fine getting drained/recharged as desired. But I prefer not to deep cycle a battery which has been stored for extended periods of time without giving it a nice long charge.

Lead Acid batts can't be drained past 80% w/o causing damage ~ Li-ion ,no

memory ,safe to charge @ will ( max 12 hrs )


Considerably better I think. Bigger in diameter, shorter, more round, better points, softer wood (better for digging into corners), and the flattened end is quite useful.

I used to cut the best skewers in the pack and sand points on them, not any more. The orangewood sticks are superior in most every way.

OF


BTW ,discussing wood skewers ,have found wood chop stick excellent for glass

filter removal ( place edge of stick over top part of filter thru mouthpiece after

removing GonG ) :cool:
 
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Silvercloud538,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
The 80% max discharge rule is still a valid recommendation for Li-Ions (and Li-Po), not because of the memory effect but because they don't like being discharged too much.

I wouldn't say they are safe to charge at will because they don't like staying in the fully charged state for too long either.

Ideally they shouldn't be charged to 100% and if you do, then it's best to use them ASAP. This is why I don't recommend doing overnight charging. Charge a bit in the evening then stop charging, and complete the last part in the morning, that's best.

That being said it can quickly become a chore...

PS: the battery institure website that was linked many times in this thread is a good resource
 
KeroZen,

cornwalis

Member
over night charging shuld not mater in this day and age mostly everything is smart chargers now Way way back when I remeber actualy timing. A batt charger lol if you left them on too long they actualy over charged now days safety regs deal with it. Deep cycle I store on a trickle charger same with my power chair deep cycles always stored on trickle most unit and cell phones will shut off befor the li-po bad goes compleetly dead
 

Silvercloud538

Well-Known Member
The 80% max discharge rule is still a valid recommendation for Li-Ions (and Li-Po), not because of the memory effect but because they don't like being discharged too much.

I wouldn't say they are safe to charge at will because they don't like staying in the fully charged state for too long either.

Ideally they shouldn't be charged to 100% and if you do, then it's best to use them ASAP. This is why I don't recommend doing overnight charging. Charge a bit in the evening then stop charging, and complete the last part in the morning, that's best.

That being said it can quickly become a chore...

PS: the battery institure website that was linked many times in this thread is a good resource


Me can only recommend '"overnite"' charging w/o any liability ,unless just got

lucky w/ Li-ion 24v; 10.8 Amps = 250 W ~ it's been almost 5 yrs and still fires up

like it should ~ Granted ,one shouldn't "'overcharge"' > 12 hrs ~

But if ,using batts as soon as charged makes one feel better ,feel good for

goodness sake :shrug:
 
Silvercloud538,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
It's not a problem of over charging or discharging, the 80% max discharge rule and the no 100% charge rule are to maximize battery life, nothing to do with safety.

Yes most devices will cutoff before it's critical and stop charging when full and do "intelligent" trickle charge, and some cells are even directly protected, but that's not the question or the problem here.

Long time storage must be around 3.8V and not at 100% charge. With my Li-Po's for instance, letting them seat for one week at 100% charge is already enough to deteriorate them. Storage at low voltage is bad too because past a certain treshold the natural voltage drop will accelerate and it will fall very quickly in the danger zone where it becomes so low the charger won't even detect the cell and ireversible damage is done (any Li-Po cell going under 3V is usually dead for instance, some large capacity modern Li-Ions can go slightly below I think)

EDIT: note that when designing a battery powered device, it's up to you to decide if you will favor battery capacity or battery life (ie cycles count) You can't have both and usually makers will favor capacity (ie run time) But in theory, if the maker choses to favor battery life, it's perfectly possible to build those two rules (20%< ..< 100%) in the device itself such that the user doesn't need to care about it and just follow the battery indicator... in which case following the two rules becomes redundant and a waste of capacity
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
over night charging shuld not mater in this day and age mostly everything is smart chargers now

Not to get too confused with all the different types of batteries. The type of battery used in Ascent should definitely not be fully charged unless you're going to use it. Charging past about 80% puts it 'on borrowed time'. Where as they're fine many years later stored at reduced levels (like ten years), a year at full charge, even if never used, is usually fatal. This is why they come shipped partially charged, as they should be stored.

If you stop the charge just 10% early (at 90% rather than 100%) you double the useful life of the battery. Drop it to 80% and the battery "cycle life" doubles again! Not as many sessions per charge, but LOTS more recharges per battery.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

OF
 

cornwalis

Member
so get out the timer and watch it like a hawk crap my cousins must sit and watch his tesla sedan ". Dam that rich bad $:):/ red lol. "charging because their 20+ Grand in bateries In that sucker Drives from Ottawa to Niagra falls ont on stops for lunch in Oshawa. Plugs it in for good measure Those I'd set timer for. but that car theirs no need. Thees bats will prob last till the Warrenty is done then I'll pop it open my self as Warrenty is done and get new 20$ bateries I Know pole with li po bats that are a good 34 years old and still hold good charge for their age
It's done charging when the batery light is solid. Silly lol.
 
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