Vitolo
Vaporist
I experienced euphoria and a distinct feeling of well being.
Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles
- Thread starter aesthyrian
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- 7thfloor
SSVUN~YAH
You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
Just got my lsv wpa from vapornation and it's perfect! Free shipping and eleven percent off, with ten percent reward points, a much better deal than 7th floor offers imo. I thought it was going to be a large version bc of the pictures but it's a shorty and the consensus seems to prefer the latter....
clouded vision
Well-Known Member
I wish I had known that they had the shorty before I ordered mine from 7th floor. I like supporting the retailers on here but the biggest problem with ordering anything from 7th floor is that the charge on my credit card statement and the return address both clearly say 7th floor. at least they left off vaporizers but one quick Google search for 7th floor and there's no mistaking what it is
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
Long shot, but does anyone know of a retailer that'll sell WPAs in Australia?
Or just has cheaper intl shipping than 7thfloor?
They had a flat rate minimum shipping of $35 last time I checked, which is exactly what a WPA costs![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
The only aus retailer I know of is australianvaporizers.com.au, but they don't stock the WPA, only the LSV.
I messaged them about it, and they said due to legal descriptions, they wouldn't stock anything water pipe related
(Sounds like crap to me, since they stock the cloud and its hydratubes, but I digress)
But yeah, I'm down to my last WPA , and wouldn't mind grabbing a new 18mm one (kinda over dealing with reducers etc
), but I can't justify $70...
Oh, also, I remember some posts a while back about how far out the ceramic element should stick out of the main unit.
Basically, it was that the serial number/whatever that number on the element is should be fully showing.
On my original silver LSV, it is that perfect distance, the end of the number sits almost flush with the body.
With my black one, it sits so far in I can only see the first 2-3 digits.
I can gently pull on the element (when the unit is cold
) to get it out to where it should be, but after 1/2 an hour or so, it retreats back to its original position.
The black one doesn't get as hot as the silver because of this. I cannot combust even on full power with a very slow draw.
Not that I want to combust, but I know my silver one is able to combust if its cranked full.
Anyone know if there's any way to get the element to stick out further and stay there?
If there isn't, I might see if I can send it in as a warranty issue, since I've got a minor issue with the cord too...
Or just has cheaper intl shipping than 7thfloor?
They had a flat rate minimum shipping of $35 last time I checked, which is exactly what a WPA costs
The only aus retailer I know of is australianvaporizers.com.au, but they don't stock the WPA, only the LSV.
I messaged them about it, and they said due to legal descriptions, they wouldn't stock anything water pipe related
(Sounds like crap to me, since they stock the cloud and its hydratubes, but I digress)
But yeah, I'm down to my last WPA , and wouldn't mind grabbing a new 18mm one (kinda over dealing with reducers etc
), but I can't justify $70...Oh, also, I remember some posts a while back about how far out the ceramic element should stick out of the main unit.
Basically, it was that the serial number/whatever that number on the element is should be fully showing.
On my original silver LSV, it is that perfect distance, the end of the number sits almost flush with the body.
With my black one, it sits so far in I can only see the first 2-3 digits.
I can gently pull on the element (when the unit is cold
) to get it out to where it should be, but after 1/2 an hour or so, it retreats back to its original position.The black one doesn't get as hot as the silver because of this. I cannot combust even on full power with a very slow draw.
Not that I want to combust, but I know my silver one is able to combust if its cranked full.
Anyone know if there's any way to get the element to stick out further and stay there?
If there isn't, I might see if I can send it in as a warranty issue, since I've got a minor issue with the cord too...
SSVUN~YAH
You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
Just got done with a few sessions and I'm smitten! This is the piece I've been missing! Vitolo called it awhile back. What a wise man!!! Two things that Ive already found that work great with the wpa are my glow n dark kind ash cache and my mushroom poker. The wpa can be banged out against the silicone collecting my abv in the process and wpa sits on the center perfectly. Also the 7th floor mushroom poker fits the wpa perfect, just like the VG coil. My buddy is passed out in the recliner after two runs but I'm ready for round three now! Yayaa!!,
grokit
well-worn member
Oh, also, I remember some posts a while back about how far out the ceramic element should stick out of the main unit.
Basically, it was that the serial number/whatever that number on the element is should be fully showing.
On my original silver LSV, it is that perfect distance, the end of the number sits almost flush with the body.
With my black one, it sits so far in I can only see the first 2-3 digits.
I can gently pull on the element (when the unit is cold
The black one doesn't get as hot as the silver because of this. I cannot combust even on full power with a very slow draw.
Not that I want to combust, but I know my silver one is able to combust if its cranked full.
Anyone know if there's any way to get the element to stick out further and stay there?
If there isn't, I might see if I can send it in as a warranty issue, since I've got a minor issue with the cord too...
I have a similar issue, where I have a silver lsv that's better made in a couple of areas than the custom black & blue job I just got in direct from 7th floor.
I have the same problem with the heater cover not sticking out far enough so it will be more solid with the cover on, my solution at this point is to re-bend a jumbo paper clip so it stays wedged down at the bottom, while it is wound tightly enough around the base of the heater element to act as a spacer for the cover. It works but is hardly elegant.
My other issue is that the knob posts aren't set to the same depth, it sticks out a few more threads than on the silver one so the glass knob sticks out further than it should. The silver knob looks great on the custom lsv but while the glass knob rides more flush on the silver lsv, the look isn't right on either unit when the knobs are reversed to make them fit better.
Also just a preference, but an obvious one: the black dime bag I got with the silver lsv would have been much more appropriate for the blue & black lsv than the beige job that they included, hopefully they were out of the other color or that was a major brain fart.
To add injury to insult (not really), I wanted to mix and match colors including the base part, and didn't know that voids the warranty so I need to call 7th floor and work something out hopefully. I just read that they have a 30-day return policy so that's a plus.
As much as I love these things I was going to pass one on anyways, so maybe this is for the best.
I wanted to end up with a black/silver and a blue/silver like yours (but different)
Bouldorado
Well-Known Member
Long shot, but does anyone know of a retailer that'll sell WPAs in Australia?
Or just has cheaper intl shipping than 7thfloor?
They had a flat rate minimum shipping of $35 last time I checked, which is exactly what a WPA costs
The only aus retailer I know of is australianvaporizers.com.au, but they don't stock the WPA, only the LSV.
I messaged them about it, and they said due to legal descriptions, they wouldn't stock anything water pipe related
(Sounds like crap to me, since they stock the cloud and its hydratubes, but I digress)
But yeah, I'm down to my last WPA , and wouldn't mind grabbing a new 18mm one (kinda over dealing with reducers etc
Oh, also, I remember some posts a while back about how far out the ceramic element should stick out of the main unit.
7th Floor Life Saber (LSV)
Deadshort480
We're here to fuck shit up.
The LSV just loves this Bubble Hash. A bed of OG with a fat chunk of Cherry Pie hash on top. I've been hitting this bowl all day and it's still milking.
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
Sounds like we've got slightly different problems?
My heater cover is fine, but my element is a little short, or are you saying the paper clip holds the element up as well as acting as a spacer for the heater cover?
I'd personally avoid using a paper clip in there unless I knew it could withstand the temps, but if it works for you
When I got my silver, they only had that yellowish/creamish color for the bags. By the time I got the black one they had the newer color bags - the black looks so much better IMO (and I'm not the sorta person who often wears yellow/has yellow bags, so the old bag looked a bit out of place in my hands
)EDIT: the LSV bag is PERFECT for travelling with glass BTW, so long as the piece is under 13-14 inches
The only way you'd be able to change the color of the base cap(ok, gonna come up with some terminology just for clarity, going from the cord end up, I'm gonna call them basecap, main body, heat shield, top cap) is to remove the power cord entirely, and the only way to remove the main body, would be to pull all the guts out of the LSV.
I can see why both of those would void the warranty (though if someone knows what they're doing its not too hard to chop the power cord and re-attach it), I think if you want colors on the base cap and main body, you need to order them like that direct from the factory. The heat shield and top cap are both easily swappable though.
I personally think the LSVlooks more elegant when its one solid color, but to each his own
Thanks
I was actually already doing that though, I guess I've just got an element with a bit of a shyness complex
grokit
well-worn member
Sounds like we've got slightly different problems?
My heater cover is fine, but my element is a little short, or are you saying the paper clip holds the element up as well as acting as a spacer for the heater cover?
I'd personally avoid using a paper clip in there unless I knew it could withstand the temps, but if it works for you
When I got my silver, they only had that yellowish/creamish color for the bags. By the time I got the black one they had the newer color bags - the black looks so much better IMO (and I'm not the sorta person who often wears yellow/has yellow bags, so the old bag looked a bit out of place in my hands
EDIT: the LSV bag is PERFECT for travelling with glass BTW, so long as the piece is under 13-14 inches
The only way you'd be able to change the color of the base cap(ok, gonna come up with some terminology just for clarity, going from the cord end up, I'm gonna call them basecap, main body, heat shield, top cap) is to remove the power cord entirely, and the only way to remove the main body, would be to pull all the guts out of the LSV.
I can see why both of those would void the warranty (though if someone knows what they're doing its not too hard to chop the power cord and re-attach it), I think if you want colors on the base cap and main body, you need to order them like that direct from the factory. The heat shield and top cap are both easily swappable though.
I personally think the LSV looks more elegant when its one solid color, but to each his own
Well then. I suppose a picture will speak better:
As you can see the paper clip isn't really exposed to the business part of the element, or (directly at least) in the vapor path. But you bring up some good points that I can use for leverage with SSV when I talk to them.
Have you looked inside the unit? I was thinking that disconnecting the power cord would be a couple of wire nuts and that's it. Or maybe screw-down/push-in terminals like on a light switch or wall outlet. What could be in there besides the thermostat/switch and a couple of wire nuts?
The parts that concerns me more would be getting to the knob post, whatever internals there are would probably have to be removed completely to access it -- which may be necessary to correct the paper clip issue anyways; I have no idea how the heater element base depth varies like that -- but on my silver one the heater cover is the same length, and it sticks out far enough to be secured by the cap when it's screwed down.
I misunderstood you, now I need to compare element length as well
edit: You can also see how far the damn knob sticks out from the body, not cool and it sits flush on the silver one.
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
Ahh, OK, so your heater cover is just a bit too short for your liking?
Are you trying to get the top cap to snugly sit against the heater cover an hold it in place?
I exclusively use the WPA, so I actually haven't had my top cap on either of my LSVs for months...
I think my temp knob sits out a bit higher on my black one too, but I like it
You might find some of these pics helpful:
I took them while I was planning on getting a piece machined to give it a removable power cord.
There is some rubber cement stuff that holds the power cord to the base cap, mine had let the power cord slip through a bit, so I opened it up, pushed the cord back through, then hot glued it back in place.
Eventually I felt like experimenting again, and chopped the power cord off (pretty much at the point where the black outer insulation ended) and slapped on a couple of connectors for a removable cord.
Eventually there was some mechanical stress on those connectors, and they shorted, so I removed them, twisted the wires back together, and sealed the connection for each wire with some heatshrink tubing (I'm thinking of opening it up again, and soldering the wires together before heat shrinking them...)
Are you trying to get the top cap to snugly sit against the heater cover an hold it in place?
I exclusively use the WPA, so I actually haven't had my top cap on either of my LSVs for months...
I think my temp knob sits out a bit higher on my black one too, but I like it
You might find some of these pics helpful:
I took them while I was planning on getting a piece machined to give it a removable power cord.
There is some rubber cement stuff that holds the power cord to the base cap, mine had let the power cord slip through a bit, so I opened it up, pushed the cord back through, then hot glued it back in place.
Eventually I felt like experimenting again, and chopped the power cord off (pretty much at the point where the black outer insulation ended) and slapped on a couple of connectors for a removable cord.
Eventually there was some mechanical stress on those connectors, and they shorted, so I removed them, twisted the wires back together, and sealed the connection for each wire with some heatshrink tubing (I'm thinking of opening it up again, and soldering the wires together before heat shrinking them...)
grokit
well-worn member
So it looks like you have an early model without the strain relief nut, the cord failed/was failing, and you decided to void your warranty at that point to diy experiment rather than send it to lsv for upgrading. Kudos!
Or correct me if I'm wrong
As far as my unit goes, it's not so much that the cover is too short (as I said I compared it with the one on the silver one and it's the same length), I actually don't know what the issue is but the end result is exactly as you said; it doesn't stick out far enough without the paper clip hack, which is unneeded with the silver one.
Anyways thanks for re-posting those pics, it's nice to know what's inside the lsv without having to remove the sticker!
Or correct me if I'm wrong
As far as my unit goes, it's not so much that the cover is too short (as I said I compared it with the one on the silver one and it's the same length), I actually don't know what the issue is but the end result is exactly as you said; it doesn't stick out far enough without the paper clip hack, which is unneeded with the silver one.
Anyways thanks for re-posting those pics, it's nice to know what's inside the lsv without having to remove the sticker!
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
Yep, I have an early model silver, I had a couple of issues with the unit, and had to send it back to 7th floor 2 times.
When the cord started failing, I asked 7th floor if I could just fix it myself, since I figured it was a relatively simple fix, and they offered me a new LSV since I was having so many issues (I didn't think it was all that much of a hassle, but it's kinda hard to be mad at such an awesome device), and let me keep the silver "for parts"
So I didn't have any warranty on the silver any more, opened it, and fixed it up
When the cord started failing, I asked 7th floor if I could just fix it myself, since I figured it was a relatively simple fix, and they offered me a new LSV since I was having so many issues (I didn't think it was all that much of a hassle, but it's kinda hard to be mad at such an awesome device
), and let me keep the silver "for parts" So I didn't have any warranty on the silver any more, opened it, and fixed it up
nowonknows
Well-Known Member
Freddie, get someone to rewire that, looks dodgy as shit inside there.
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
What concerns you?
Those are old pics, but I used it in that state for a few months, and it is still currently running fine.
If its just that the wires look a little worn, I've since stripped them back a bit and heat shrunk them together
Those are old pics, but I used it in that state for a few months, and it is still currently running fine.
If its just that the wires look a little worn, I've since stripped them back a bit and heat shrunk them together
nowonknows
Well-Known Member
The cables are the concern mate. Twisting and bending heavily isn't good for them, damadge the conductors, damadge the insulation.
With mine I cut the cord where it meets the bottom cap, chiseled the epoxy out of the end cap and drilled the whole out to 12mm then reassembled with a cable gland as per 7th floors revised model, only a year earlier.
I loved this vape, was all I used for years, but how they were wired in past was really concerning.
With mine I cut the cord where it meets the bottom cap, chiseled the epoxy out of the end cap and drilled the whole out to 12mm then reassembled with a cable gland as per 7th floors revised model, only a year earlier.
I loved this vape, was all I used for years, but how they were wired in past was really concerning.
SmokeyJihad
boofing cbd daily
So I've been having a slight issue lately. When I first purchased my LSV, the heater cover was very stable and didn't wobble at all. After my original heater cover broke, I ordered a new one and it won't stay in place at all. I have to reattach the heater cover every time I want to vape. It seems a little stable at first, but after pulling out the wand a couple times, the metal base of the HC seems to wiggle loose, causing the HC to move around freely in the LSV. It's really a hassle.
Does anybody have any tips and tricks to get the heater cover in a stable position? I'm hoping the problem will go away once I start to use the WPA instead of the wand because nothing will be physically inserted into heater cover.
And one more question, how close should the heating element be placed to the top of the heater cover? When I replaced mine I didn't take note of where it was placed previously and I find myself asking if it will make a noticeable difference in vapor production.
Sorry for the long read!
Does anybody have any tips and tricks to get the heater cover in a stable position? I'm hoping the problem will go away once I start to use the WPA instead of the wand because nothing will be physically inserted into heater cover.
And one more question, how close should the heating element be placed to the top of the heater cover? When I replaced mine I didn't take note of where it was placed previously and I find myself asking if it will make a noticeable difference in vapor production.
Sorry for the long read!
grokit
well-worn member
Hopefully somebody with more experience will weigh in, but there have been posts here about tweaking the shim between the heater element base and the cover so it provides a firmer grip.
I like my heater cover mounted so it protrudes just enough to be secured by the front cap.
I like my heater cover mounted so it protrudes just enough to be secured by the front cap.
SmokeyJihad
boofing cbd daily
I'm using one shim at the moment. I don't think I could even put on another shim without having the heater cover crack from excessive pressure. I've tried reshaping it a handful of times, yet nothing seems to fix the problem.
SmokeyJihad
boofing cbd daily
TNK
Well-Known Member
Okay......Hmmmm I forgot what I was going to say, type,
Anyways I got my Lsv today.
Honestly what is there not to like?
My set up: I often use a SSV wand with the EQ for variety. When I do, I use the elbow screen of the EQ inserted into the wand so the herb stays suspended inside the wand.
So I adapted the same idea with the glass wand for the LSV. Screen fits perfectly snug in the wand entrance. And the herb stays in the wand and never goes into the heater cover. At least for now.
The Screen for the EQ is the one that looks like a hat with the metal rim. They seem to fit perfectly with 7th floor glass. If they slide out, squeeze top and bottom together, until sides bulge out.
I ordered the blue model with silver end caps. Has the strain relief cord, and came with a duffle bag, wand and long pick.
Like I said, I filled the wand, inserted the EQ screen and toked away. Good solid hits. Herb stays away a little further with the EQ screen holding the herb back. this may help in preventing combustion.
I set the knob to one o'clock, it came set at seven. this was good but felt unit became too hot. S I dialed it back to twelve, works for me.
Reason for buying it have proven good so far. Unit feels solid in the hand and works when drawn on. I pull the wand out for shot gun.
Gone is all the plumbing from other vapes .
Unit works great
Anyways I got my Lsv today.
Honestly what is there not to like?
My set up: I often use a SSV wand with the EQ for variety. When I do, I use the elbow screen of the EQ inserted into the wand so the herb stays suspended inside the wand.
So I adapted the same idea with the glass wand for the LSV. Screen fits perfectly snug in the wand entrance. And the herb stays in the wand and never goes into the heater cover. At least for now.
The Screen for the EQ is the one that looks like a hat with the metal rim. They seem to fit perfectly with 7th floor glass. If they slide out, squeeze top and bottom together, until sides bulge out.
I ordered the blue model with silver end caps. Has the strain relief cord, and came with a duffle bag, wand and long pick.
Like I said, I filled the wand, inserted the EQ screen and toked away. Good solid hits. Herb stays away a little further with the EQ screen holding the herb back. this may help in preventing combustion.
I set the knob to one o'clock, it came set at seven. this was good but felt unit became too hot. S I dialed it back to twelve, works for me.
Reason for buying it have proven good so far. Unit feels solid in the hand and works when drawn on. I pull the wand out for shot gun.
Gone is all the plumbing from other vapes .
Unit works great