The Magic-Flight Box
- Thread starter magicflight
- Start date
OF
Well-Known Member
The weld line is where it would fail in some modes no matter the quality. In general, the quality should be quite high if the tools are kept in good shape and in process inspections correctly used. It's highly unlikely that two units defective units would end up with the same customer, so if folks don't report back with lots of 'yeah, that happend to me too' posts we should look to some use/technique related issue? Not sure yet what that might be, of course.
But, for instance, let's say you put the LB on your truck dash and rattle it down the road all day long? I'd expect stress breaks to show in a neat little line along the weld...kind of like a zipper.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Interesting idea. That should be confined to the right rail you'd think. Is that the case, is there any issue on the left (positive) side?
OF
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
Maybe pressing too much on the battery, depends on how much will the wood behind prevent it from bending. On my first LB, the lft rail teared off. At the side of the battery connection/positive rail. IDK it it was from hard battery pressing or the q-tip misuse or manufacturing defect that "seeded" the tear.
OF
Well-Known Member
Well I don't know about you, but I think it'd be really swell if we could figure out why and stop it? Second best would be to just have it go away and never come back, but I like knowing why.
Thanks for the additional info.
OF
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
There are many was to destroy the screen, some less obvious I've mentioned. These screens can last very long time when treated perfectly. The best would be to make the weld more robust or make a design change (imo really not easy one) to make the screen detachable/replaceable. Using some simple, but robust and current-friendly mechanism.
willieR: I think your tear could be from q-tips or weld made weak.
willieR: I think your tear could be from q-tips or weld made weak.
OF
Well-Known Member
Actually, it's the other way around. Weld failures would be rough, each strand would 'break loose' as an individual. Those I saw with burned through strands would leave that stub behind, no tear. Those with 'incomplete fusion' (the usual 'bad weld') would tear loose as whole strands from the rod when they could. Likewise ripping them off with a q-tip I would expect to be random.
Stress fractures would follow along one of the parallel wires close to the weld you'd think and end up quite straight and uniform. I'm still leaning to the rod or screen moving, not a weld issue per se.
I tend to think a weld failure caused tear would be very easy to spot to the trained eye. Perhaps a trip to the factory can resolve the mystery?
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Yes, I agree. And I don't think either of those are secrets, although it seems not all believe.....
Good luck, I'm sure you'll get the 'routine' exceptional Customer Support. Clearly this service is part of the value of the box. Pity to those who live in places it's hard to take advantage when the need comes up.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Glad to do it, man. Pay attention now, someday it'll be your turn you know......
I mean we can't be counting on Vitolo to do it all, now can we?
Regards,
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
I bought a 2' whip attachment for my LB and took one of the two acrylic pegs off. Replaced it with a 14mm glass adapter so I could hook up my bong.
Using my Roor straight tube with my LB and PA is amazing! Going from green dank to brown abv in 3 pulls is sublime. I figured it would work but had no idea how well it would.
Highly recommend this to anyone on the fence about a similiar set up.
Using my Roor straight tube with my LB and PA is amazing! Going from green dank to brown abv in 3 pulls is sublime. I figured it would work but had no idea how well it would.
Highly recommend this to anyone on the fence about a similiar set up.
ilovebOObs
can i stick my male joint in there?
was bored today so i made this, came out pretty good so i'll share.
