GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
for people using torches, not IH - do you heat the cap in a way that it touches the 'light blue' flame or where there's no flame -- just catching the heat from the torch? pretty far from the flame but not too far?
 
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Vape Cloud City

Well-Known Member
for people using torches, not IH - do you heat the cap in a way that it touches the 'light blue' flame or where there's no flame -- just catching the heat from the torch? pretty far from the flame but not too far?
There's two parts to a torch flame the really bright blue part you can see well and the much more transparent outer blue flame. I try to keep my dynavaps about an 1/8th to a quarter inch away from the tip of the more transparent "outer" flame. Sorry if you need the metric conversion.
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
There's two parts to a torch flame the really bright blue part you can see well and the much more transparent outer blue flame. I try to keep my dynavaps about an 1/8th to a quarter inch away from the tip of the more transparent "outer" flame. Sorry if you need the metric conversion.
me too, i don't let my cap "touch" the blue flame at all, just relying on the heat it produces, it works perfect also with a captive cap tho....!
 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
me too, i don't let my cap "touch" the blue flame at all, just relying on the heat it produces, it works perfect also with a captive cap tho....!
Yeah man this is my preferred style too, I like to keep it far and let the heat slowly build up. I always get an unsatisfactory extraction when I try and rush things by pumping in too much heat too fast
 

Thunderbelch

Well-Known Member
Yeah man this is my preferred style too, I like to keep it far and let the heat slowly build up. I always get an unsatisfactory extraction when I try and rush things by pumping in too much heat too fast
This is also why slower induction heaters like the Wand hit harder. If you heat it quickly, the discs in the cap get to temp before the heat soaks through the whole tip. Heat it slower and the heat has time to diffuse through the tip by the time the discs get to full temp.
 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
This is also why slower induction heaters like the Wand hit harder. If you heat it quickly, the discs in the cap get to temp before the heat soaks through the whole tip. Heat it slower and the heat has time to diffuse through the tip by the time the discs get to full temp.
Totally agree there man! There’s good reason the wand is the IH for guys that always end up going back to their torch, it’s basically a digital single flame torch in terms of performance and how you use it
 

Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
This is also why slower induction heaters like the Wand hit harder. If you heat it quickly, the discs in the cap get to temp before the heat soaks through the whole tip. Heat it slower and the heat has time to diffuse through the tip by the time the discs get to full temp.
Agreed, granted I use a single flame but the slower heat up works wonders for me, fuller extraction in less hits.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
OK, so I'm a little confused here. Many folk, including @TommyDee who appears to be looking the most closely at it, appear to believe that over time the caps material, thickness, and maybe even crimp design have changed. But George says that the only thing that has changed is the addition of the captive dent. So, why would George lie about it? That seems very unGeorgelike behavior to me. Is it possible that the changes that people have noticed are just minor variations that occur when you rerun a process over and over? I have definitely had caps that slipped the crimp more easily, but that may be only a run specific variation. I have not really noticed the differentiation that others have described, but I will admit to not looking that closely for it...
 

Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
OK, so I'm a little confused here. Many folk, including @TommyDee who appears to be looking the most closely at it, appear to believe that over time the caps material, thickness, and maybe even crimp design have changed. But George says that the only thing that has changed is the addition of the captive dent. So, why would George lie about it? That seems very unGeorgelike behavior to me. Is it possible that the changes that people have noticed are just minor variations that occur when you rerun a process over and over? I have definitely had caps that slipped the crimp more easily, but that may be only a run specific variation. I have not really noticed the differentiation that others have described, but I will admit to not looking that closely for it...
Caps now are very different in performance compared to the better older ones, definitely a difference, that’s not my imagination, others have had similar experiences. If it was my business I’d personally be checking the caps:rofl:
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
OK, so I'm a little confused here. Many folk, including @TommyDee who appears to be looking the most closely at it, appear to believe that over time the caps material, thickness, and maybe even crimp design have changed. But George says that the only thing that has changed is the addition of the captive dent. So, why would George lie about it? That seems very unGeorgelike behavior to me. Is it possible that the changes that people have noticed are just minor variations that occur when you rerun a process over and over? I have definitely had caps that slipped the crimp more easily, but that may be only a run specific variation. I have not really noticed the differentiation that others have described, but I will admit to not looking that closely for it...
all the caps work well for my, with the Ti tip. with the SS I may needed to queeze a cap in a while, not a big deal, never felt that I like X cap or Y just because it's new or old, just if some cap is dirty I will prefer the clean one... (from concentration or what so)
I am not feeling what Tommy feels but I need less power from him I guess, I heat it at the middle most times

It has nothing to do with Georgeable likeable yes or no, just an opinion of a customer after the company's Production line has got bigger and bigger...and I think nothing has changed if George said so. but sometimes there are faulties and I am sure they take care of it.

I know about the video shown X cap is needed 60W to get the click and other cap 40W or so. maybe that's a rare case? somebody bothered to weight old 2018 cap vs new 2020+ cap?

bottom line is, my 3 caps feel the same to me...

***For people who got black spots in the cap's roof which alcohol won't clean...because it's a reclaim-polymer etc'... :

put your cap with like 1 spoon of Baking Soda in a Tea/Coffee cup (cup that can take boiling water) . pour boiling water, wait few seconds pour it to the sink then dry your cap with 1-3 qtips... run it empty for burn off.. enjoy... clean cap without any polymerzations!
 
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Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
all the caps work well for my, with the Ti tip. with the SS I may needed to queeze a cap in a while, not a big deal, never felt that I like X cap or Y just because it's new or old, just if some cap is dirty I will prefer the clean one... (from concentration or what so)
I am not feeling what Tommy feels but I need less power from him I guess, I heat it at the middle most times

It has nothing to do with Georgeable likeable yes or no, just an opinion of a customer after the company's Production line has got bigger and bigger...and I think nothing has changed if George said so. but sometimes there are faulties and I am sure they take care of it.

I know about the video shown X cap is needed 60W to get the click and other cap 40W or so. maybe that's a rare case? somebody bothered to weight old 2018 cap vs new 2020+ cap?

bottom line is, my 3 caps feel the same to me...

***For people who got black spots in the cap's roof which alcohol won't clean...because it's a reclaim-polymer etc'... :

put your cap with like 1 spoon of Baking Soda in a Tea/Coffee cup (cup that can take boiling water) . pour boiling water, wait few seconds pour it to the sink then dry your cap with 1-3 qtips... run it empty for burn off.. enjoy... clean cap without any polymerzations!
I’d say all my caps act in their own unique way and require some learning to get the best from them. No 2 are identical.
 

Thunderbelch

Well-Known Member
Has anyone compared new old stock of the old caps (ie: ones that have sat on shelves unused since manufacture) to the current ones side by side? Could it be that the heavily used old caps now just click hotter than when they were new?
 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
Probably gonna rub a few people the wrong way here, but George isn't always honest with his customers about both his products and business practices. Although I really don’t like throwing stones behind a computer screen so that’s all I will say on the topic.

@TommyDee shared a post a while back, he’d found a way to quantify the difference in caps by measuring the current they were drawing. Interesting read for those still in doubt of the change

@Thunderbelch I believe the current theory is a change in the iron content in the alloy, again though there are people way more informed on this than me
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I’d say all my caps act in their own unique way and require some learning to get the best from them. No 2 identical.
I think there is a lot of varience in the caps but I think it is more random than a changing standard. I think I have probably had 2 different caps from the same run behave slightly differently...
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I’d say all my caps act in their own unique way and require some learning to get the best from them. No 2 are identical.

I totally agree. But, if you're like me and long ago lost track of which cap came with which tip and hence its vintage you can intuitively adjust the the proper timing if you heat just at/beyond the outer flame. I use this technique with all my caps/tips, heat to the click, get great results. it's almost foolproof.
 

Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
Probably gonna rub a few people the wrong way here, but George isn't always honest with his customers about both his products and business practices. Although I really don’t like throwing stones behind a computer screen so that’s all I will say on the topic.

@TommyDee shared a post a while back, he’d found a way to quantify the difference in caps by measuring the current they were drawing. Interesting read for those still in doubt of the change

@Thunderbelch I believe the current theory is a change in the iron content in the alloy, again though there are people way more informed on this than me
im in no doubt, there’s definitely been a change in some way for the caps to act so drastically different over the years. The newer the tamer for me, strange:sherlock:
 

My_50p_worth

Well-Known Member
I am in no doubt,

im in no doubt, there’s definitely been a change for the caps to act so drastically different over the years.
Definitely is, I’m like you and have zero doubt about it! Although I do simultaneously agree with other posters that there is variance from cap to cap also.

Even amongst the OG caps there are “hot” and “hotter” ones, your special one with the long gaps between clicks is one of the more uncommon “hotter” ones.

God I miss mine so bad :bang:
 

Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
Definitely is, I’m like you and have zero doubt about it! Although I do simultaneously agree with other posters that there is variance from cap to cap also.

Even amongst the OG caps there are “hot” and “hotter” ones, your special one with the long gaps between clicks is one of the more uncommon “hotter” ones.

God I miss mine so bad :bang:
:tup:Aye there is variances from cap to cap like you say, for me the newer the cap the tamer as mentioned above. A couldn’t imagine life without my “special“ long gap clicker cap:rofl:
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
<snip>

@TommyDee Can’t believe you would share the secret source of backup OG caps and increase the competition for them ;)
I believe in sharing. All good things at a deal are snipped the minute they are posted. I've picked up on those that others bypassed due to price. Now finding hot NOS OG caps is proving to be a challenge. They are out there though.

Definitely is, I’m like you and have zero doubt about it! Although I do simultaneously agree with other posters that there is variance from cap to cap also.

Even amongst the OG caps there are “hot” and “hotter” ones, your special one with the long gaps between clicks is one of the more uncommon “hotter” ones.

God I miss mine so bad :bang:

I put them in 3 classes - a rare series that register a gain ratio of ~6:1; older caps that are hot range in the 4:1 zone; and 2020+ caps that rate at or below 3:1. Gain ratio is IH current draw w/ the cap over current draw w/o the cap. To test a cap without discoloring it, turn the input voltage down. I adjust the voltage so the IH draws 1 amp w/o the cap so whatever I read with the cap is easy to calculate.


...and I'm pretty sure George knows about this but isn't fessin' up. He has his eyes on a new product in 'armored caps'. Funny thing is, the older caps already act like the experiments he was doing.

 
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Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
I believe in sharing. All good things at a deal are snipped the minute they are posted. I've picked up on those that others bypassed due to price. Now finding hot NOS OG caps is proving to be a challenge. They are out there though.



I put them in 3 classes - a rare series that register a gain ratio of ~6:1; older caps that are hot range in the 4:1 zone; and 2020+ caps that rate at or below 3:1. Gain ratio is IH current draw w/ the cap over current draw w/o the cap. To test a cap without discoloring it, turn the input voltage down. I adjust the voltage so the IH draws 1 amp w/o the cap so whatever I read with the cap is easy to calculate.


...and I'm pretty sure George knows about this but isn't fessin' up. He has his eyes on a new product in 'armored caps'. Funny thing is, the older caps already act like the experiments he was doing.

What use would these armoured caps be like performance wise and what is their purpose ?, I’ve heard people mention them a few times now, but couldn’t find out anything. And I don’t do the whole social media shite so i probs miss out on a lot of info. love all the technical info @TommyDee even tho I’m a torch user:lol:.
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Torches have a similar disposition with these caps. I like being able to know the range for the caps and this test is very telling.

Armored caps is a means to add more metal to the cap to make it like a 'heat battery'. It was a very public outing when George was exploring the possibilities of adding a layer of 'something' to make the cap retain heat. They tried a few things but it was less than stellar. But they are still working on a higher heat capacity cap.
 

Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
Torches have a similar disposition with these caps. I like being able to know the range for the caps and this test is very telling.

Armored caps is a means to add more metal to the cap to make it like a 'heat battery'. It was a very public outing when George was exploring the possibilities of adding a layer of 'something' to make the cap retain heat. They tried a few things but it was less than stellar. But they are still working on a higher heat capacity cap.
Ah thanks for The reply bud
:tup:
, wonder if they will perform like the older caps or how else they will act, I guess we will find out in time.
 
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