Now if only someone would make a SS oneBut do note that printed PLA has a massive surface area and will become caked in kief, harvest bacteria and is a pain to clean.
(Love my Delta3D funnel, but SS would be SO much better)
Now if only someone would make a SS oneBut do note that printed PLA has a massive surface area and will become caked in kief, harvest bacteria and is a pain to clean.
I have a few different SS sizes I bought on Amazon though I don’t use them with my Hopper at all, just to fill herb in vials. I have different size vials too so I use the small and medium steel funnels which just fit inside the vial necks (I use 3 & 4 dram vials to store herb which handily pour into the Hopper which, again, I do by hand). I keep it simple though some prefer a funnel to load which I understand. Just not me though .Now if only someone would make a SS one
(Love my Delta3D funnel, but SS would be SO much better)
I use an external heater from pipes. Hes on the dynavap page on FC. Ended my search for my perfect vaporizer. Not to mention dumping the s*itty customer service you get with hopper labs. They are the absolute worst company I've ever dealt with... period.. vape and non vapeThanks for the dynavap tip- I'd never heard of them, and ordered one.
There's definitely a number of funnels on the GH Accessories page from Delta 3D - flexible general multi-fit, GH only (normal and mini size), 2in1 GH+doobtube (normal and mini)
(there's also the MFLB Finishing grinder funnel which could be printed to fit the GH upon request, and really the customisation is endless depending on what you want to do)
yeah yeah, I'm pedantic, but consider this a plug.
1 vape, many options that are reasonably self explanatory, but the differences could be best explained by someone who has handled multiple versions, which I suspect was what @david8613 was after.
I'd probably go for the flexible or the mini, for durability/pocket-ability. If I used a doob tube, then the 2in1 makes sense. The V1 full size options seem to be the lesser choice - I think @Ratchett made the mini after comments from people using the full size version which pre-dates the other options AFAIK. Seems the OD is about the same on the flare end between the sizes, and the GH end is shorter and stronger. The full size is needlessly big, that volume looks like it could handle many chambers worth of ground herb.
I'm sure @david8613 was just after some user confirmation that the item is good, to which of course it is, it's a Delta 3D accessory. You can't really go wrong, but I don't know, I've never tried.
I will note, the plain undyed PLA is the better choice for this task
But do note that printed PLA has a massive surface area and will become caked in kief, harvest bacteria and is a pain to clean.
A perfectly clean hopper will function best.is it just for the back end or both back end and front end threads for performance? would a metal funnel cause any electrical problems? I heard the body is part of the circuit or something like that and that's why the threads need to be kept clean for best performance.
As happened with me early on in my Hopper ownership, the frontend got gunked up so badly and I inadvertently loosened the screen and was unable to thread the frontend on at all. I sent it back to HL and they sent me a new one which I still have. Cleaning it with a brush and insuring the screen doesn’t loosen at all, and with ISO either applied with a qtip or full frontend soak in ISO (I just recently bought PBW which others have used but haven’t tried yet) also helps.The front end threads are less critical for performance, although gunked up threads likely indicate a dirty mouthpiece too.
Not sure if I ever heard that but good to know. If you brush the frontend hard enough and counterclockwise I believe there’s a chance the screen will loosen a bit, which happened to me in my Hopper infancy days. Fine point tweezers (or something similar) will remove (or tighten) it altogether. I bought fine point tweezers for this reason just in case though, as someone recently mentioned, it’s good to remove it completely for a thorough cleaning on occasion.Always make sure your Hopper is warm before unscrewing the mouthpiece and you will likely never have a problem with the screen getting loose.
They have facilitated donation-giving with an option to contribute in the checkout process (as in, when placing an order for a charger or such thing).- and throw a little donation at HL. We’ll see...
Was reading through older posts and saw this. Please post updates on when (if?) you go ahead with this, because I'm definitely interestedI would consider doing a small production run of these if there is enough interest. Our current design replaces the original back-end (and battery) completely so there is no pass-thru charging, but it lets you stay powered up at home.
They have facilitated donation-giving with an option to contribute in the checkout process (as in, when placing an order for a charger or such thing).
If the backend threads are as clean as possible, try cleaning the backend battery contact with light ISO or De-oxit (or similar). I assume the battery is healthy and charged. Good luck!Hi All, i cleaned my hopper With blue tac and canned air and now it will not turn on. Red lights blink for a sec and shuts off. The heater gets hot. What mamy be the cause?
Did that and nothing. When I press it on few times the body gets hootIf the backend threads are as clean as possible, try cleaning the backend battery contact with light ISO or De-oxit (or similar). I assume the battery is healthy and charged. Good luck!
How long have you had the unit? Has it already been in for service?Did that and nothing. When I press it on few times the body gets hoot
Red light blinking means low power, either your batt needs charging or you need a new batt.Hi All, i cleaned my hopper With blue tac and canned air and now it will not turn on. Red lights blink for a sec and shuts off. The heater gets hot. What mamy be the cause?
. I bought it lightly used im April and I’been using it almost everyday. It was my daily doser during the work week. No issues until today besides slightly worse performance. I guess that RMA is unavoidable. Bad time for that...How long have you had the unit? Has it already been in for service?
Never had those symptoms with mine before it was RMA’d. I got it back in September after a year at HL for repair and it’s been working well and a lot better than it did before I sent it in. My heater or heater assembly was shot and replaced; I had ghost pulls beforehand and the backend also got hot on occasion but it was ‘usuable’ and turned on but not terribly effective. It’s a different and better story now post-RMA...
It does not blink. Shows for a middle od the second onlyRed light blinking means low power, either your batt needs charging or you need a new batt.
Sounds like an older unit but not sure. What’s the number on the backend? RMA can’t be ruled out at this point if you’ve tried different batteries. If you only have one then indeed RMA is likely the next step. Sorry.. I bought it lightly used im April and I’been using it almost everyday. It was my daily doser during the work week. No issues until today besides slightly worse performance. I guess that RMA is unavoidable. Bad time for that...
It does not blink. Shows for a middle od the second only
Red lights blink for a sec and shuts off.It does not blink. Shows for a middle od the second only
The 3rd one yields one draw and then red.
Try blowing very hard back through the bowl a few times and see if that helps.. I bought it lightly used im April and I’been using it almost everyday. It was my daily doser during the work week. No issues until today besides slightly worse performance. I guess that RMA is unavoidable. Bad time for that...
It does not blink. Shows for a middle od the second only