I could not agree more
Discontinued The Timber Elite by Vapwood
nonbeliever
Well-Known Member
So suddenly, I’m getting a ‘Temp Protect” message when I fire the Elite button. It started after I changed out to a new battery. From what I can find, this message means that unit has reached temperature and the unit is adjusting ohms accordingly, but the air through it is cold in my throat. I tried increasing the temperature (used TC2) to 510, but same message. Same message on all TC modes.
Doesn’t appear if I change to a watts profile.
Any ideas on this?
Doesn’t appear if I change to a watts profile.
Any ideas on this?
nonbeliever
Well-Known Member
After using watts mode for a bit, and going back to TC (I was going to try your suggestion) the message was gone. Running fine in TC now.
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Sound like the old throttling bug why theme are you using. You can turn off that warning in themes installer but if its the bug then need to try different theme.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/69851-throttling/
Do you have the newest escribe and service pack?
Use the international version with elite.
November 27, 2018
EScribe Suite 2.0 SP19
For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT_ServicePack.exe
For international customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT.pkg
For customers using Linux, see the beta thread.
nonbeliever
Well-Known Member
I do have the current service pack. This was one of Mike's pre installed themes.
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
I updated my working copying if anyone wants try it out. Open ecsribe then load as file. Make sure you have extra spots open of the new custom material files.
Backup elite first in case you want to revert back. Right now still running in early stage but its a start. Any questions feel free to ask.
ELITEtest.ecig
Backup elite first in case you want to revert back. Right now still running in early stage but its a start. Any questions feel free to ask.
ELITEtest.ecig
I downloaded the international version and latest service pack on each unit. I'm glad you resolved the issue @nonbeliever , and thanks @HerbieVonVapster!
Yesterday / today is cover plate day. It's an interesting process. Of course, I'll share it.
The idea is to create this custom plate with absolute perfect placement of holes at 9 x 20 mm. I work with blanks that produce 2 plates. Once all holes are routed (screen and USB), I drill out button holes on my x / y axis vice. I now have full thickness (9mm) with all holes machined in. Next step is to remove 5 mm's of *waste* from the underside of the plate, except for the 3 mounting tabs. This is done exactly the way I cut box joints on my table saw, a very accurate process. Now I'm left with an oversized (20mm) plate, as the width of the slot in the unit is 19 mm. This gives me the ability to pair tightly to the unit. Once paired, it's time to clamp and drill / tap holes for machine set screws. The plate can now connected to the unit (no board) for final sanding and finishing, before the plate is removed (board mounted) and then reinstalled during final assembly.
In the meantime, I keep researching the board. Lots of information on installation and use of the software. I am always picking up ideas that may help me improve the assembly process. The more information I can acquire, the better for everybody. Luckily, I love learning new things (so you don't have to).
The screen is connected to the board via a ZIF connector. I always felt this is the weakest link of the DNA75C (it is replaceable) until it is permanently mounted in place. I just read how to put a crease in the ZIF, and use a special double sided tape to hold it screen in place. Our particular way of mounting the board to the plate captures the screen nicely, but this will make for a much more stable connection DURING the build process, before everything is permanently mounted in place. In other words, makes my job a bit easier.
That is sort of typical with every challenge, a really good multi-beneficial solution pops up. That just tells me that Evolv has put together a very sound product.
Yesterday / today is cover plate day. It's an interesting process. Of course, I'll share it.
The idea is to create this custom plate with absolute perfect placement of holes at 9 x 20 mm. I work with blanks that produce 2 plates. Once all holes are routed (screen and USB), I drill out button holes on my x / y axis vice. I now have full thickness (9mm) with all holes machined in. Next step is to remove 5 mm's of *waste* from the underside of the plate, except for the 3 mounting tabs. This is done exactly the way I cut box joints on my table saw, a very accurate process. Now I'm left with an oversized (20mm) plate, as the width of the slot in the unit is 19 mm. This gives me the ability to pair tightly to the unit. Once paired, it's time to clamp and drill / tap holes for machine set screws. The plate can now connected to the unit (no board) for final sanding and finishing, before the plate is removed (board mounted) and then reinstalled during final assembly.
In the meantime, I keep researching the board. Lots of information on installation and use of the software. I am always picking up ideas that may help me improve the assembly process. The more information I can acquire, the better for everybody. Luckily, I love learning new things (so you don't have to).
The screen is connected to the board via a ZIF connector. I always felt this is the weakest link of the DNA75C (it is replaceable) until it is permanently mounted in place. I just read how to put a crease in the ZIF, and use a special double sided tape to hold it screen in place. Our particular way of mounting the board to the plate captures the screen nicely, but this will make for a much more stable connection DURING the build process, before everything is permanently mounted in place. In other words, makes my job a bit easier.
That is sort of typical with every challenge, a really good multi-beneficial solution pops up. That just tells me that Evolv has put together a very sound product.
This early clock change has me thrown off...
Woke up with actual muscle aches from too much work. Building cover plates, specifically the creating of the mounting tabs on the underside of the plate, involves about 50 passes over the blade to basically whittle away all waste, for each plate. That's 50 x 22, for about 1100 passes, and my neck and shoulders feel it. Once that's done, each plate needs to be hand finished with a saw and many different files. I've got just the right saw (mini Japanese pull saw) and a huge selection of wood files to bring to a perfect fit for the board, buttons, and screen. After tablesaw marathon, I managed to hand finish and fit six plates. I'll only finish 15 (number of bodies I have working this batch), and set the rest aside for next batch. I'll have cover plates, back plates, and some bottom caps set aside. for next batch, this should help speed the build process considerably.
2019 batch 2 will go out by the end of March. This will include any straggler Classic orders as well as Elites. If you order today, you should fall in the April batch. Some of this has to do with purchasing inventory and staying stocked, not just how fast I can build. Building 100 units, my six month goal, means I have to build every day even if the orders aren't there. It also represents an almost $15, 000 investment. I have a tendency to buy as I go, but with the potential of the Elite I do not want to stop building Walnut, Cherry, Maple, and Koa units, even during periods of temporarily slowing. So the more units I sell right now, the more I'll invest back into Vapwood and ensure I can build for a long time to come, without gaps waiting on parts.
The Elite, with it's $150 of parts, versus the Classics $50, represents a much larger investment for me as the builder, as well as you as the costumer. Boards ain't cheap, but the good news is the quality seems to be there. It seems Evolv has produced quite the advanced regulator / converter, and feat of electronics that is the perfect shape and form to fit a single cell wood box mod (Lil' Bud). The ability of the DNA75C was surely never in question, but the pairing with a meaty, SS, mesh coil, has allowed the Evolv board to transition from a purely ecig device, to a state of the art dry herb portable. Again, we get back to @Alan 's coil.
The coil is the key to vaporization and quality of communication sent to the chip. This will improve dramatically as we pioneer / tweak our way forward as the first to harness this power. I like to give credit where credit is due: DNA75C + Alan's Coil + Lil' Bud = something really special, with crazy potential, and deserving of the name ELITE
Woke up with actual muscle aches from too much work. Building cover plates, specifically the creating of the mounting tabs on the underside of the plate, involves about 50 passes over the blade to basically whittle away all waste, for each plate. That's 50 x 22, for about 1100 passes, and my neck and shoulders feel it. Once that's done, each plate needs to be hand finished with a saw and many different files. I've got just the right saw (mini Japanese pull saw) and a huge selection of wood files to bring to a perfect fit for the board, buttons, and screen. After tablesaw marathon, I managed to hand finish and fit six plates. I'll only finish 15 (number of bodies I have working this batch), and set the rest aside for next batch. I'll have cover plates, back plates, and some bottom caps set aside. for next batch, this should help speed the build process considerably.
2019 batch 2 will go out by the end of March. This will include any straggler Classic orders as well as Elites. If you order today, you should fall in the April batch. Some of this has to do with purchasing inventory and staying stocked, not just how fast I can build. Building 100 units, my six month goal, means I have to build every day even if the orders aren't there. It also represents an almost $15, 000 investment. I have a tendency to buy as I go, but with the potential of the Elite I do not want to stop building Walnut, Cherry, Maple, and Koa units, even during periods of temporarily slowing. So the more units I sell right now, the more I'll invest back into Vapwood and ensure I can build for a long time to come, without gaps waiting on parts.
The Elite, with it's $150 of parts, versus the Classics $50, represents a much larger investment for me as the builder, as well as you as the costumer. Boards ain't cheap, but the good news is the quality seems to be there. It seems Evolv has produced quite the advanced regulator / converter, and feat of electronics that is the perfect shape and form to fit a single cell wood box mod (Lil' Bud). The ability of the DNA75C was surely never in question, but the pairing with a meaty, SS, mesh coil, has allowed the Evolv board to transition from a purely ecig device, to a state of the art dry herb portable. Again, we get back to @Alan 's coil.
The coil is the key to vaporization and quality of communication sent to the chip. This will improve dramatically as we pioneer / tweak our way forward as the first to harness this power. I like to give credit where credit is due: DNA75C + Alan's Coil + Lil' Bud = something really special, with crazy potential, and deserving of the name ELITE
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HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Dropped mod resistance to 0.002 added a couple different custom core files THEN ran case thermal analyzer. Profile one is TC feel free to try other materials. Make sure to use correct cold ohms.
I also Added a custom theme that easeier to use. Enjoy
OPEN ESCRIBE LOAD THIS FILE ELITEtest.ecig
I also Added a custom theme that easeier to use. Enjoy
OPEN ESCRIBE LOAD THIS FILE ELITEtest.ecig
Good Morning All.
Not too much time in the shop yesterday (or today), but I managed to finalize another half dozen cover plates. I can actually say that the cover plate, my biggest fear, has become somewhat routine. The key is accuracy in the drilling / routing process that makes hand faring and fitting of the board easy. Next step is to fit / mount the plates to the units (no board). Once that's all done, I can take my 15 units and shape them on the sanding belt / disk, and finalize with multi level grit sand sponges, making everything all pretty.
I've gotten so into building that I've come away from playing with the software. Once this batch is finalized, I need to take another hard look. I'm really looking forward to applying @HerbieVonVapster 's theme. So you dropped cold ohm's to .002?
Not too much time in the shop yesterday (or today), but I managed to finalize another half dozen cover plates. I can actually say that the cover plate, my biggest fear, has become somewhat routine. The key is accuracy in the drilling / routing process that makes hand faring and fitting of the board easy. Next step is to fit / mount the plates to the units (no board). Once that's all done, I can take my 15 units and shape them on the sanding belt / disk, and finalize with multi level grit sand sponges, making everything all pretty.
I've gotten so into building that I've come away from playing with the software. Once this batch is finalized, I need to take another hard look. I'm really looking forward to applying @HerbieVonVapster 's theme. So you dropped cold ohm's to .002?
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
No I dropped mod internal resistance from .004 to .002 my understanding is that resistance is caused by loss due to wiring and 510 connections. Since the elite isn't using 510 I felt that lower mod resistance would be a avenue to explore.
In linked post the 8th post talks abit about mod resistance.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65594-mod-resistance/
There 3 ways to effect output heat in TC mode I found.
One is material file.
2nd is mod internal resistance
3rd is increasing cold ohm value.
The above file is using a combination the internet resistance in set at 0.002 the material file is based off djlsbs and last is the cold ohms. I have my cold OHMS set at 0.355 unlocked. If tweak any factor too much can have negative effects.
ELITEtest.ecig
If you open escribe and click open setting from file should load right up. If don't like it just restore a backup version. It's not perfect but feel getting closer. Once feel it's there will compare temperature with a Mighty. I know not perfect method but should be a lot close to the right readout.
In linked post the 8th post talks abit about mod resistance.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65594-mod-resistance/
There 3 ways to effect output heat in TC mode I found.
One is material file.
2nd is mod internal resistance
3rd is increasing cold ohm value.
The above file is using a combination the internet resistance in set at 0.002 the material file is based off djlsbs and last is the cold ohms. I have my cold OHMS set at 0.355 unlocked. If tweak any factor too much can have negative effects.
ELITEtest.ecig
If you open escribe and click open setting from file should load right up. If don't like it just restore a backup version. It's not perfect but feel getting closer. Once feel it's there will compare temperature with a Mighty. I know not perfect method but should be a lot close to the right readout.
@HerbieVonVapster
Found it under Options / User Interface / Manufacturer / Electrical / Mod Resistance - currently at .004. Haven't changed anything yet, wonder what @Alan thinks about making this adjustment as the manufacturer, and without the 510. Very interesting, as we're really getting down to the internals. Nice to know the default works so well.
Here's what I've been playing with in Watt Boost mode. I set punch to max (11), watts at 28 to 30. I just opened a new batch of weed that responds better to 30 watts than 28. Anyhoo, I can feather the fire button (once or twice) early on in the hit, to bring the coil up to vapor temp almost immediately, if my bowl is responding slowly - kind of a kick start. I can reach higher temps this way as well. Kind of unregulated way of using a regulated vape. Not sure if I made this sound complicated, but it's not.
Found it under Options / User Interface / Manufacturer / Electrical / Mod Resistance - currently at .004. Haven't changed anything yet, wonder what @Alan thinks about making this adjustment as the manufacturer, and without the 510. Very interesting, as we're really getting down to the internals. Nice to know the default works so well.
Here's what I've been playing with in Watt Boost mode. I set punch to max (11), watts at 28 to 30. I just opened a new batch of weed that responds better to 30 watts than 28. Anyhoo, I can feather the fire button (once or twice) early on in the hit, to bring the coil up to vapor temp almost immediately, if my bowl is responding slowly - kind of a kick start. I can reach higher temps this way as well. Kind of unregulated way of using a regulated vape. Not sure if I made this sound complicated, but it's not.
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Good morning Elitists...
I'm looking forward to more deep level tweaks on the Escribe software. As far as mod resistance, in our case we've eliminated the 510 connector, but we've introduced ring connectors and butt splice connectors, so there is some resistance. I think that .002 or maybe .003 might be worth exploring.
Just to be clear @HerbieVonVapster, we are trying to get a more accurate reading in all TC modes, correct?
There is another aspect to the Escribe software that I haven't heard anyone talk about, even in forums, manuals, etc. In any TC mode, in the Device Monitor, if you click on *temperature set* (left side underlined link), you get the option of setting a temp, or removing the protection (until another temp is selected). If you shut of temp protection , this basically allows the temp to just rise in TC mode. I'm not sure how this is any different than Watts mode, other than you can see the temp rise on the graph. It caps out at over 700 F with the current settings. That's actually not the ACTUAL temp, but a relative number based on the chip's ability to read our coil at these current settings.
So Herbie, what do you know about removing temp protection in temp control mode?
I'm looking forward to more deep level tweaks on the Escribe software. As far as mod resistance, in our case we've eliminated the 510 connector, but we've introduced ring connectors and butt splice connectors, so there is some resistance. I think that .002 or maybe .003 might be worth exploring.
Just to be clear @HerbieVonVapster, we are trying to get a more accurate reading in all TC modes, correct?
There is another aspect to the Escribe software that I haven't heard anyone talk about, even in forums, manuals, etc. In any TC mode, in the Device Monitor, if you click on *temperature set* (left side underlined link), you get the option of setting a temp, or removing the protection (until another temp is selected). If you shut of temp protection , this basically allows the temp to just rise in TC mode. I'm not sure how this is any different than Watts mode, other than you can see the temp rise on the graph. It caps out at over 700 F with the current settings. That's actually not the ACTUAL temp, but a relative number based on the chip's ability to read our coil at these current settings.
So Herbie, what do you know about removing temp protection in temp control mode?
Another productive half day in the shop. Got 17 units / cover plates - all told, ready for pre-assembly phase 2, the mounting of the cover plate. At this point the cover plate can accept the board, all holes finalized, width down to a tight fit. Might still be some slight hand sanding / fitting, but they're ready to be mounted. Mounting involves clamping in place, drilling to a precis depth, then tapping the hole, and finally installing with set screws. The sets screws will be set to slightly below the surface to allow sanding.
I'm excited at the precision of the process, and how the plan is very predictable / reliable with this batch. Not that batch one was guess work, but being able to start batch 2 so quickly, at this point in the Elite's development, has allowed all my skills to stay honed with everything so fresh in my mind. That's what smaller batches will do for you. Somehow, this large batch of over 15 is progressing rapidly. To me that's a pretty reliable indicator of the soundness of the design, both on our part and Evolv.
Once the plates are mounted, it's sanding time, both machine and hand, and finally beeswax. I'll have 17 Elite bodies that can be assembled one at a time. The first step of each assembly is to form the board / cover plate sandwich, with the buttons and screen captured in between. Once assembled, this modular unit is wired into the Elite, 2 wires to the coil, 2 wires to the battery. After all wiring is complete, the bottom cap is attached, then the cover plate is anchored in place with the previously tapped holes for set screws. All about the process, and the order things are done. The Elite is a very *clean* job, where everything has come together in a very neat little package.
I'm excited at the precision of the process, and how the plan is very predictable / reliable with this batch. Not that batch one was guess work, but being able to start batch 2 so quickly, at this point in the Elite's development, has allowed all my skills to stay honed with everything so fresh in my mind. That's what smaller batches will do for you. Somehow, this large batch of over 15 is progressing rapidly. To me that's a pretty reliable indicator of the soundness of the design, both on our part and Evolv.
Once the plates are mounted, it's sanding time, both machine and hand, and finally beeswax. I'll have 17 Elite bodies that can be assembled one at a time. The first step of each assembly is to form the board / cover plate sandwich, with the buttons and screen captured in between. Once assembled, this modular unit is wired into the Elite, 2 wires to the coil, 2 wires to the battery. After all wiring is complete, the bottom cap is attached, then the cover plate is anchored in place with the previously tapped holes for set screws. All about the process, and the order things are done. The Elite is a very *clean* job, where everything has come together in a very neat little package.
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Yes just load that ELITEtest.ecig from escribe main start screen (Open settings from file)
Correct
When I looked into it and only reason I could see was if you wanted to use a temp control material in wattage mode. Since didn't see a reason and didn't enjoy the experience honestly didn't mess with it.
There also the setting to limit the maxs temperature even when in wattage mode.
Might be helpful to set it around combustion level.
Really getting some smooth hits from it. Been trying out a finer screen basket type screen it slows draw down and does away with the hot spot you can sometimes get with more open airflow.
On airflow with 2 larger holes in elite it's better that splinter 2 hole about equal to 4 hole splinterZ and less that the iheat stempod.
@HerbieVonVapster
You and I are finding the same things. I find a slightly clogged screen to be easier to work with. I am going to try a finer mesh as a roasting tube screen. The resistance here does keep things even. I find if I dry, grind, load, tamp right, it can do the same thing. We haven't been really talking a lot about the *FLOWER PUCK*, but it is still a vital component. Remember what ecig machines have going for them - oil is consistent. We have to deal with dry flower, which can vary from strain to strain, load to load, hit to hit. I have some extra unit screens that I'm going to mess with in the roasting tube.
I absolutely love WATT BOOST. In this mode I really don't care about exact temps (as long as board stays cool), just good hits, and lots of them. I bumped up punch to 10, set watts at about 28, and it's remarkably simple. I don't really have to change anything to spend the bowl, maybe bump up to 30 watts, or just give the 28 watts a boost or two.
As far as temp settings in watts mode, yes, I have set it, but I'm not sure if it does anything, as temp is not monitored in watts mode. I keep it at 450 (below combustion) anyway. You're right though, if you remove temp protection in TC mode, it basically becomes Watts Mode with the temp being monitored. With the settings I have, it will go quite high, but until we nail down the settings, I feel that it's a relative number.
I've not been doing well in the *accessory* department. I bought a couple of hemp bags, and they were so much smaller than anticipated, total bust. Next size the pricing jumps to where it would have to effect Elite pricing. Search continues for a good, reasonable priced, Elite case. I looked into 6 foot USB wires. I wound up ordering the wrong ones (micro plug wrong type). I'll figure it out and try again. Now I've got six, 6 foot gold, braided cords that I can use on my Samsung phone. Woo Hoo!
I will continue to work out the accessories, but continue to build and ship in the meantime. There is only so many hours in the day.
PS: I hope to get some pre-assembly pics taken of the batch. Lots of Walnut units with Walnut Cover Plates and Back Plates.
You and I are finding the same things. I find a slightly clogged screen to be easier to work with. I am going to try a finer mesh as a roasting tube screen. The resistance here does keep things even. I find if I dry, grind, load, tamp right, it can do the same thing. We haven't been really talking a lot about the *FLOWER PUCK*, but it is still a vital component. Remember what ecig machines have going for them - oil is consistent. We have to deal with dry flower, which can vary from strain to strain, load to load, hit to hit. I have some extra unit screens that I'm going to mess with in the roasting tube.
I absolutely love WATT BOOST. In this mode I really don't care about exact temps (as long as board stays cool), just good hits, and lots of them. I bumped up punch to 10, set watts at about 28, and it's remarkably simple. I don't really have to change anything to spend the bowl, maybe bump up to 30 watts, or just give the 28 watts a boost or two.
As far as temp settings in watts mode, yes, I have set it, but I'm not sure if it does anything, as temp is not monitored in watts mode. I keep it at 450 (below combustion) anyway. You're right though, if you remove temp protection in TC mode, it basically becomes Watts Mode with the temp being monitored. With the settings I have, it will go quite high, but until we nail down the settings, I feel that it's a relative number.
I've not been doing well in the *accessory* department. I bought a couple of hemp bags, and they were so much smaller than anticipated, total bust. Next size the pricing jumps to where it would have to effect Elite pricing. Search continues for a good, reasonable priced, Elite case. I looked into 6 foot USB wires. I wound up ordering the wrong ones (micro plug wrong type). I'll figure it out and try again. Now I've got six, 6 foot gold, braided cords that I can use on my Samsung phone. Woo Hoo!
I will continue to work out the accessories, but continue to build and ship in the meantime. There is only so many hours in the day.
PS: I hope to get some pre-assembly pics taken of the batch. Lots of Walnut units with Walnut Cover Plates and Back Plates.
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nonbeliever
Well-Known Member
I’ve actually been doing the same thing, just sticking with Watt Boost mode, though i’m finding 27W seems to be my sweet spot. I haven’t tried to limit the top temperature yet, but will. It’ll be interesting to see if it changes anything. Something else I’ve noticed is that battery power level seems to have a much bigger effect when in TC mode. It seems that my hits diminish a lot in TC mode when the battery drops below 65%, while I’ve run the battery down to less than 10% a few times in Watts Boost mode (by accident, I guess I didn’t notice.. oops.)
The Elite has so become my DD (sorry Lil Classic). Mike, this just rocks!
Nice progress today. 16 cover plates mounted. This have been fit / shaped on the belt / disc sander. Still lots of hand sanding to bring to a polish level finish, as well as soften all edges. The cover plate is basically flush. In this state, I can apply beeswax and get ready for final assemblies. I still need to prep boards, and make coils.
So much to do, literally not enough hours in the day. Yesterday, I had no distractions and got lots done. Fitting and mounting 16 cover plates involves lots of steps. Each unit gets hand fit, then clamped, drilled, tapped, screwed - twice per unit (32 times). Plates, left long, are then cut to size while mounted. Sanding / shaping this square block of an Elite to the soft rounded, polished unit is quite the job that starts on the belt sander and ends with sanding blocks. Lots to sand, thank God for the machine. This is where you can really *feel* the size of the batch, in the form of sore muscles from performing the same task just way too many times. This batch had to be big, as I'd like to get all Elite orders filled prior to February. April's batch will be all February and March, at which point a standard one month wait will become the norm.
Elites Blends are not being built this batch. If you've ordered a Blend you have the option of switching out for a Walnut unit, or waiting until next month. If you are one of those who ordered a Blend, I should be contacting you via email shortly with that option.
I've truly been cruising at Watt Boost, punch set to 10, 28 watts, cold ohms .35. I've left mod resistance at .04 for now. I've gone back to the glass tube insert (so nice to have a few options). The performance is stellar. I'm finding the board to be a real beast, resilient, durable, just works really well without much thought. That's my sweet spot, great session and no work.
SIDE NOTE: Just reading the newsletter from NORML, great times to be a pot head. Who woulda ever thought?
Elites Blends are not being built this batch. If you've ordered a Blend you have the option of switching out for a Walnut unit, or waiting until next month. If you are one of those who ordered a Blend, I should be contacting you via email shortly with that option.
I've truly been cruising at Watt Boost, punch set to 10, 28 watts, cold ohms .35. I've left mod resistance at .04 for now. I've gone back to the glass tube insert (so nice to have a few options). The performance is stellar. I'm finding the board to be a real beast, resilient, durable, just works really well without much thought. That's my sweet spot, great session and no work.
SIDE NOTE: Just reading the newsletter from NORML, great times to be a pot head. Who woulda ever thought?
Phew... Another mega day in the shop with my batch of 16. When the batch is that big, everything seems like lots of work, but the pay off is big. The only reason I went with this double batch was to catch up on Elite pre-orders. Right now, it's more like a 30 day wait.
Today was still about final sanding the pre-assembled units all the way down to 600 grit. I managed to get beeswax on all 16 as well, which means they are done, done, done, and ready to be ASSEMBLED with boards and coils. These pre-assembled, finished bodies will make up the March batch, with a few left over to fill in for April. In the meantime, I actually got to the PO today with 3 Classic orders, trying to stay on top of things. Both Classic and Elite orders continue to move at about an even pace.
Amazing what a little beeswax can do. Also note that the *live edge* unit has made it this far.
In the meantime, I can't say enough good stuff about the DNA75C. As a self regulation guru, this is quite a departure. In my defense. it was on demand convection that really attracted me, and self regulation was just part of that. I've had other regulated vapes, but always session / conduction vapes. Controlling wattage, adding in some preheat, seems to pair well with dry herb and our coil, and it's very simple. I like simple. I am looking forward to really getting into the Escribe software, but it's nice to get such great results without having to invest much time. I really like how the ABV is turning out. Pretty much as dark as I want it to be if I stir once or twice. I can almost eliminate stirring altogether if I'm willing to bump up wattage a bit. I guess it depends on what I'm in the mood for, convenience or cooler hit (when you stir, it's almost like you just loaded a fresh bowl).
Speaking of a fresh bowl, I am still amazed at the first hit, every time, at low wattage (27). It is so tasty, so dense, so aromatic, almost musky, regardless of the amount of exhaled cloudage, as the Elite quickly extracts the low temp oils. Very nice feature. And when I say bump up wattage to complete a bowl, if my dry / grind / tamp is right, 28 watts might be enough. If the flower puck is a bit loose, or not ideal, it tends to take a bit more to access every part of the bowl, and hot spots are much more likely, as heat will take the path of least resistance. It's worth the little effort to do herb prep, it pays off in taste, effect, efficiency, ABV quality, cleanliness, battery life, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
Today was still about final sanding the pre-assembled units all the way down to 600 grit. I managed to get beeswax on all 16 as well, which means they are done, done, done, and ready to be ASSEMBLED with boards and coils. These pre-assembled, finished bodies will make up the March batch, with a few left over to fill in for April. In the meantime, I actually got to the PO today with 3 Classic orders, trying to stay on top of things. Both Classic and Elite orders continue to move at about an even pace.
Amazing what a little beeswax can do. Also note that the *live edge* unit has made it this far.
In the meantime, I can't say enough good stuff about the DNA75C. As a self regulation guru, this is quite a departure. In my defense. it was on demand convection that really attracted me, and self regulation was just part of that. I've had other regulated vapes, but always session / conduction vapes. Controlling wattage, adding in some preheat, seems to pair well with dry herb and our coil, and it's very simple. I like simple. I am looking forward to really getting into the Escribe software, but it's nice to get such great results without having to invest much time. I really like how the ABV is turning out. Pretty much as dark as I want it to be if I stir once or twice. I can almost eliminate stirring altogether if I'm willing to bump up wattage a bit. I guess it depends on what I'm in the mood for, convenience or cooler hit (when you stir, it's almost like you just loaded a fresh bowl).
Speaking of a fresh bowl, I am still amazed at the first hit, every time, at low wattage (27). It is so tasty, so dense, so aromatic, almost musky, regardless of the amount of exhaled cloudage, as the Elite quickly extracts the low temp oils. Very nice feature. And when I say bump up wattage to complete a bowl, if my dry / grind / tamp is right, 28 watts might be enough. If the flower puck is a bit loose, or not ideal, it tends to take a bit more to access every part of the bowl, and hot spots are much more likely, as heat will take the path of least resistance. It's worth the little effort to do herb prep, it pays off in taste, effect, efficiency, ABV quality, cleanliness, battery life, and I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
caseball2051
Well-Known Member
Wow that live edge model is 
Mr. Gweilo 420
Dude
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
