Yes, eight solder joints on this build, plus you have to seat the delicate screen ribbon in a tiny connector on the board. It's not nothing, getting everything to fit is a puzzle, but a first-timer w/ a $15 iron could do it.
Lots of mod builders out there, certainly someone you can pay, the two shops I've been using (analogboxmods.ca and dripp3d.com) are small operations and likely available to build for more $. Are you attached to this chip/battery/enclosure setup in particular? If not, you can find DNA75-based manufactured mods for less than a small shop would charge, too. Almost too many choices, really, but Evolv gives the most builder support by far, and has the best reputation for on-board charging, and a developed interface for customizing the software, etc.
] For me, I'm gonna go re-read this thread along with the Splinter & iHeat threads for comprehension this time around & ask my baby questions as I go along.
How about someone explaining in detail (baby-talk) what exactly cruise control is & how it works on the vape. The splinter waitlist is gonna start & I believe the iHeat is underway (don't quote me, maybe pre-orders) so us newbies have to be brought up to speed. [(I'm thinking of you, too, @cybrguy & your vast knowledge of mods.
There is a 20-second timeout. For me, that means draw as long as you like cause I never draw long enough to exceed 20 seconds plus the natural vapor-producing an RBT heater does w residual heat after shutoff.
I hope you are thinking of me as a noob needing help as I am still completely in the dark on mods, other than what I have read in these groups. Have seen them, but not even held one yet.so us newbies have to be brought up to speed. [(I'm thinking of you, too, @cybrguy & your vast knowledge of mods.
Folks who use water filtration should consider the TUBOx which has the vast majority of the weight (the mod and batteries) resting on the table, not the bubbler.
Hard tp say, someone will have to test!
What this interview confirms though: as he says, only 10% of DNA user base really uses TC. It's the same across all e-cig forums I read, and whatever the brand they use. They just use power mode and they don't care.
It's problematic for us because manufacturers have little incentive, if any at all, to improve their TC algos. It's just a gadget meant to avoid dry puffs and burning your cotton wicks in the first place. While for us, it's the number #1 requirement to use our on demand convection vapes properly (yes Splinter and iHeat can work in power mode too, but trust me, when TC works it's clearly worth it. And for the Project, it's barely usable in power mode, you really need TC)
I had hopes that with the recent waves of research articles showing that many pyrolysis by-products are produced at high temperatures with e-liquid, including potential carcinogens, they would all react and switch to TC exclusively, but it's not happening or at least only very slowly.
They stick to the urban legend that says e-liquid is 95% safer than real cigarettes, so they couldn't care less about the last 5%.
That is a confusing thing. If I run the software, my TCR value is 1000. The adapter asks me to set the TCR at 300. Which one am I changing????