What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?

[slatihe]

For a nice cheaper zebra wood box mod consider the smok treebox 220w and mini 75w. Both with tc. $60 or less.

The 220w has 2 batts and is firm ware upgradable. Only down side to the miny is that it's not firm ware upgradable, but works grate!

 

[That_one_guy39]

The Reuleaux RX2/3 Is an optional double or triple battery Ecig mod With great temperature control, and capability to be upgraded to Arctic fox custom firmware - the Firmware all of the Waxpen users have going for their Saionara Atomizers etc.

For single battery mods, the Joytech Evic VT mini is a great one, super solid - highly approve of the Tubo using it

 

[Fat Freddy]

The Joytech Evic series and Wismec work well, I'm buying a 2/3 Wismec Reuleaux same one as @AJS

Does that one have an integrated battery?

.

 

[kuzko]

I’m trying to decide between the Joyetech Evic mini or the Eleaf istick pico, for use with the Splinter.

Anyone care to sway me one way or the other?

 

[StonerSloth]

I’m trying to decide between the Joyetech Evic mini or the Eleaf istick pico, for use with the Splinter.

Anyone care to sway me one way or the other?

I think that the Evic Mini and Pico may be a little small for a Splinter. I would get something that is at least 25mm wide and maybe even consider a 2-battery mod. The Splinter is going to be pretty power hungry and the setup would be a little top heavy on a tiny mod. I have an iHeat (similar but different) and it feels a lot better on a nice beefy mod.

If you want a more pocket-friendly single battery mod, maybe check out the Wismec Sinuous P80 - http://www.myvaporstore.com/Wismec-Sinuous-P80-Mod-Only-Black-p/wis-snr10.htm - the atomizer is mounted in the center, which should work better with a large attachment like the Splinter. It also has 2A charging, which is a step up from the older boards with super slow charging. Also firmware upgradeable and ArcticFox compatible.

 

[kuzko]

I think that the Evic Mini and Pico may be a little small for a Splinter. I would get something that is at least 25mm wide and maybe even consider a 2-battery mod. The Splinter is going to be pretty power hungry and the setup would be a little top heavy on a tiny mod. I have an iHeat (similar but different) and it feels a lot better on a nice beefy mod.

If you want a more pocket-friendly single battery mod, maybe check out the Wismec Sinuous P80 - http://www.myvaporstore.com/Wismec-Sinuous-P80-Mod-Only-Black-p/wis-snr10.htm - the atomizer is mounted in the center, which should work better with a large attachment like the Splinter. It also has 2A charging, which is a step up from the older boards with super slow charging. Also firmware upgradeable and ArcticFox compatible.

Just when I thought I had narrowed it down haha. That Wismec looks pretty good. Thanks for the advice. I’d rather not keep a separate charger for batteries, do most 2 battery mods let you charge natively?

 

[BigJr48]

Does that one have an integrated battery?

.

They have removable 18650 batteries.

 

[That_one_guy39]

Just when I thought I had narrowed it down haha. That Wismec looks pretty good. Thanks for the advice. I’d rather not keep a separate charger for batteries, do most 2 battery mods let you charge natively?

It's really not recommended to charge 18650 cells inside of these electronic devices, most of them have a micro usb port for firmware updates and setting stuff, but if you DO charge through them it can lead to some dangers down the line. With single battery devices it's less of an issue, but for anything with 2 or more batteries you risk an imbalance in the "married" pair of cells(only charged and discharged the same as a set). If there is an imbalance, one cell can be stressed much more than the other leading to a variety of potential issues including violent venting of your battery.


So, at least the ecig community holds, don't charge your batteries inside your device as an all around general rule.

 

[KeroZen]

Hm nope, most of these multi-cell vapes do proper balance charging now. It's simple, if they display per-cell voltages (or if they do when installing myevic or AF) it means they have a tap for each cell and most probably do balance charging.

I don't know why this urban legend about not charging directly inside mods is still sticking around, maybe it's from the very early pen-vape days? But now charging IC's cost a few cents at most and are tried and proved. For single cell mods I do it all the time. For multi-cells mods, granted, you should check that they do balance charging first, but if they do no problem. It might be slower than with a good external charger though, so that's another reason.

The Pico doesn't fit the Splinter due to the battery cap. Please check the maximum supported attachment diameter before getting a mod or you might have bad surprises: both the Splinter and iHeat are too large for all SBS designs for instance, as well as mods having the atty recessed or next to the cap etc.

 

[sickmanfraud]

@KeroZen I have read that the weakest link in using a box mod is the 510 threading. With that in mind, it seems to make sense to me to buy an inexpensive (say an Evic vtc Dual) mod for each attachment you want to use.

First, is that a correct? Second, which box mods do you recommend?

 

[KeroZen]

You could get a good quality mod and use a 510 extender (sold as heatsinks primarily) This way if you damage the threads by swapping attachments often, you damage the (cheap) extender ones and not those on the mod itself. As a bonus, the heatsink effect can be beneficial to minimize heat transfer to the mod circuit when doing long sessions or huge rips through water etc.

The trifecta joyetech/wismec/eleaf are all based on the same chipset and they are entry-level mods only. They do work, but TC out of the box is crap. You can improve it with custom firmware but it's never gonna be as good as the best chipsets out there because their ADC (the analog to digital converter, which is used to read the attachment resistance and convert it to a digital value that the microcontroller can understand) is of lower resolution.

TC mode is entirely based on resistance value measurement. There is no dedicated temperature sensor obviously as the only connection between the mod and the attachment is that damn 510 screw port which only carries power (pos and neg) This is why it's really important to have these readings as precise and accurate as possible, as well as having the best signal path through that 510 port, with minimal contact losses and a solid connection.

I enjoy my evic VTC mini but it was plagued with issues from the start and making TC work is super finicky even with the custom firmware. My evic Primo mini worked for a short while but then developed similar problems but worse, so it's almost unusable now after less than two months of use. I have a Eleaf Pico too, but the iHeat doesn't fit and the Project Pure SF looks silly and vulnerable on it, so I don't use it for now.

On the other hand when I got the Smoant Knight V2 to match the Project Pure SF, it worked out of the box without having to configure tons of parameters. And it's been flawless since. Apparently Smoant TC implementation is good. Same for the OMNI chipset found in the Vaporesso brand.

Then if you want the best quality, get something based on DNA, YiHi (higher end models only), Dicodes or HohmTech (the latter was removed from their website recently and I don't know why as it was awesome)

 

[kuzko]

You could get a good quality mod and use a 510 extender (sold as heatsinks primarily) This way if you damage the threads by swapping attachments often, you damage the (cheap) extender ones and not those on the mod itself. As a bonus, the heatsink effect can be beneficial to minimize heat transfer to the mod circuit when doing long sessions or huge rips through water etc.

The trifecta joyetech/wismec/eleaf are all based on the same chipset and they are entry-level mods only. They do work, but TC out of the box is crap. You can improve it with custom firmware but it's never gonna be as good as the best chipsets out there because their ADC (the analog to digital converter, which is used to read the attachment resistance and convert it to a digital value that the microcontroller can understand) is of lower resolution.

TC mode is entirely based on resistance value measurement. There is no dedicated temperature sensor obviously as the only connection between the mod and the attachment is that damn 510 screw port which only carries power (pos and neg) This is why it's really important to have these readings as precise and accurate as possible, as well as having the best signal path through that 510 port, with minimal contact losses and a solid connection.

I enjoy my evic VTC mini but it was plagued with issues from the start and making TC work is super finicky even with the custom firmware. My evic Primo mini worked for a short while but then developed similar problems but worse, so it's almost unusable now after less than two months of use. I have a Eleaf Pico too, but the iHeat doesn't fit and the Project Pure SF looks silly and vulnerable on it, so I don't use it for now.

On the other hand when I got the Smoant Knight V2 to match the Project Pure SF, it worked out of the box without having to configure tons of parameters. And it's been flawless since. Apparently Smoant TC implementation is good. Same for the OMNI chipset found in the Vaporesso brand.

Then if you want the best quality, get something based on DNA, YiHi (higher end models only), Dicodes or HohmTech (the latter was removed from their website recently and I don't know why as it was awesome)

Thanks for the rundown! Do you have any specific “high end chip” mod recommendations for the Splinter? If I go the entry level route I’ve decided on the Wismec Sinuous P80. But you make the DNA chip mods sound like the perfect setup, but when I search for DNA mods another 100 choices surface and I’m back to square one trying to figure out the differences and which ones the best for the price. I would prefer single battery unless it’s a dual with the balance charging.

Edit: what do you think of the
S Body Vape Droid C3D1 DNA250? It’s a DNA mod that holds 3 batteries.

 

[KeroZen]

I'm honestly not a mod expert you know. But there are good sources of information and reviews online, like the ECF forum, ukvapers etc., and many youtube channels dedicated just to that.

Keep in mind that the interest in these "standardized" chipsets is that the mod functionalities will be always the same for a given chipset. All DNA75 mods will work the same for instance, down to how they manage the batteries etc. The only difference between mods is then the hardware around that, and it shouldn't be under looked of course, as it affects long term reliability etc, but it's mostly a matter of look and feel in the first place.

Find a design you like, read some reviews to check if they use quality components: 510 port, battery contacts, battery door, trigger button*, magnets, paint finish etc.. The body materials used affect mostly weight, for instance cast alloy mods tend to be heavier (ex: Smoant Knight v2) than those machined out of aluminium, some like the extra heft some dislike it, it's a matter of taste.

* : note that on mods using ready-made chipset boards, the button is often part of the PCB, what only differs in this case is just the look and feel of the button cap covering it.

 

[Summer]

@KeroZen, I googled DNA mods based on your post -- gotta start somewhere , & came up with this reddit conversation which lent itself to a good starting point for all mod newbies like me.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/5uvz31/dna_mods/

For my use, a dna mod is overkill no matter how efficient it is. But in perusing dna mods I came up with this one which looks really cool -- it's 3D printed & lightweight.

https://www.esauce.co.uk/the-rebel-mod-evolv-dna-250-3-x-18650-rebel08-rebel-vape

https://vapel1fe.com/collections/devices/DNA

The rectangular box ones 1 & 2 batts accept up to 26mm w/ no overhang. & I read that to check the authenticity of the Evolv(?) firmware you simply lower it to 1 watt & then press the power button.

 

[kuzko]

So I went ahead and ordered a Wismec Sinuous P80, I figure I’ll start out with it and I can always upgrade if I need to.

Now is possible to put the Tubo firmware on a Wismec? If so, what is the way to do that? I see on the Tubo site there’s a how to but the instructions explain using a Joyetech updater and such, But it says that only works on EVIC. Says something about using NFirmwareEditor for other models. I’m having a little trouble finding what that is and how to get it on my Mac, can anyone help with this? Maybe @funkyjunky ? Thanks!

 

[StonerSloth]

So I went ahead and ordered a Wismec Sinuous P80, I figure I’ll start out with it and I can always upgrade if I need to.

Now is possible to put the Tubo firmware on a Wismec? If so, what is the way to do that? I see on the Tubo site there’s a how to but the instructions explain using a Joyetech updater and such, But it says that only works on EVIC. Says something about using NFirmwareEditor for other models. I’m having a little trouble finding what that is and how to get it on my Mac, can anyone help with this? Maybe @funkyjunky ? Thanks!

You can download NFE Tools here - https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/p11-nfe-tools-v171128.1468/

https://nfeteam.org/

I do believe this is PC only.

"NFE Tools" is the computer software used to update/change/flash the firmware on your box mod.

ArcticFox is the actual firmware that you can install using NFE Tools. So if you want to use Tubo instead of ArcticFox, don't bother downloading the ArcticFox files. (Note I have no idea if Tubo FW is compatible, I've never used Tubo FW.)

Hope that clears things up for you!

The P80 is a good mod. I use one with my Top-Flow Sai with ArcticFox and it is a champion. Very good form factor.

 

[kuzko]

You can download NFE Tools here - https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/p11-nfe-tools-v171128.1468/

https://nfeteam.org/

I do believe this is PC only.

"NFE Tools" is the computer software used to update/change/flash the firmware on your box mod.

ArcticFox is the actual firmware that you can install using NFE Tools. So if you want to use Tubo instead of ArcticFox, don't bother downloading the ArcticFox files. (Note I have no idea if Tubo FW is compatible, I've never used Tubo FW.)

Hope that clears things up for you!

The P80 is a good mod. I use one with my Top-Flow Sai with ArcticFox and it is a champion. Very good form factor.

Thank you, that simplifies things. I’ll have to use a friends PC when the mod gets to me. I guess if the Tubo fw doesn’t work I can try arctic fox. I saw on the Wismec website there are various updates they do on the P80 firmware, I wonder if that’s as good as the customs.

 

[Fat Freddy]

I'm honestly not a mod expert you know.

Yeah, well, compared to many if not most of us you are the Grand Poobah of All Things Box Mod!

ALL HAIL KZ!

.

 

[sickmanfraud]

Here is a link to @funkyjunky list of compatible hardware that can handle his Myevic firmware.

http://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/product&path=68_75&product_id=266

Anyone who wants to use @funkyjunky firmware should look at the list BEFORE buying a mod.

 

[TheRobbo]

So if I was to get a Wismec 2/3 as @AJS seems to be having some pretty good success with the tubo firmware, and I like the idea of being able to add the third battery if I need extra run time (going to mates houses or camping).
But...
If it is good practice to pair the 2 that will normally be in it do I need to keep a separate set of three, or will throwing another cell into the mix once in a while not be too much of a problem?

 

[oddjobold]

If your thinking about getting the evic vtwo mini, i would get the cuboid instead. Cubiod is basically the same size only a fraction bigger and two battery.

Dont get a VTC mini as vtwo mini is the updated version. Standard Vtwo has a bit that sticks out the top that may interfere with the splinter. Cubiod 200 has a top screen and would avoid for the same reason. Cuboid mini is designed to be used with a special tank so would avoid that. Same with AIO and e grip 2. Evic basic has a built in battery, why buy this when u can have removable.

Personally i dont like the evic dual. Had one - sold it. Single battery mode is a pain in the arse to change battery. Double battery the battery door can collect muck in the hinge cornor and cause a fault. Battery connector is by the door. Also the door on the double battery compartment felt kinda loose (maybe just mine).

So overall on the evic side i would recomend cubiod. If you want single battery get the vtwo mini. Size differnce between the two is very little.

Wismec always seemed a bit chunky to me.

 

[GreenHopper]

Here is a site for more custom mods (DNA based):

http://parovarcustom.com/variwattboxmod_en

 

[oddjobold]

Here is a site for more custom mods (DNA based):

http://parovarcustom.com/variwattboxmod_en

I only brought my evics as i thought they were cheap and a good starting point. Both the cubiod and the mini were less than £55 delivered.

I am interested in these DNA mods. I would like to know if the TC mode on the DNA really is much better and worth the extra price. Would like to hear from someone with a funkyjunky compatable mod and a DNA mod. Is it worth the extra money and sacrifising cruise mode?

Was thinking a DNA custom mod with a SBS case for splinter would be very cool. Maybe the case could be 3D printed?

Lots of ideas - not much time to implement.

 

[GreenHopper]

I only brought my evics as i thought they were cheap and a good starting point. Both the cubiod and the mini were less than £55 delivered.

I am interested in these DNA mods. I would like to know if the TC mode on the DNA really is much better and worth the extra price. Would like to hear from someone with a funkyjunky compatable mod and a DNA mod. Is it worth the extra money and sacrifising cruise mode?

Was thinking a DNA custom mod with a SBS case for splinter would be very cool. Maybe the case could be 3D printed?

Lots of ideas - not much time to implement.

I suspect usage scenario and personal taste will greatly come in to play.

Custom stabilised wood mods are going to be pricey and are more for those who want something special.

I'm also somewhat stuck between DNA and/or a @funkyjunky firmware compatible mod. I guess if you prefer longer sessions maybe with temp stepping then the cruise mode will be of interest. Where as if you are micro dosing or one hit ripping and want a consistent but immediate temp then the DNA based mods might be worth it.

I like the idea of getting a DNA board direct from evolv and a LiPo battery then having a SBS mod custom carved but I'm waiting until my splinter arrives first.

 

[oddjobold]

Think this would need minimal tweaking to turn in to a SBS design

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2383519