What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?

sixstringsmash

Well-Known Member
Considering buying one of these for use with the splinter. What do u think?

http://smoant.com/charon-ts-218w-touch-screen-tc-vw-curve-mod/index.html
The Charon uses the ant chip which is supposed to be one of the better price friendly chips on the market out there. I personally would get the Charon model that just uses buttons instead of the touchscreen interface(less parts to possibly fail) as they have the same chip, but that really comes down to personal preference.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
So I gave the Witcher a try, and it has been a pretty mixed experience. Construction is ok, I guess, albeit on the heavy side clearly (must be some cast metal alloy inside)

CmqQChQ.png



Comes with two size rings to protect your attachment, as it is a side-by-side design (SBS) It fits the iHeat as well as all three versions of the Project (OG, Eraser and Pure SF) but I don't think it would fit the Splinter.

iUSqHCq.png



It is thumb operated as the trigger is on the top. Feels strange at first but once you hold the whole thing in your hand it makes sense and it's fun to use. The way you grasp it, it feels compact and small. Definitely feels better in the hand that what it looks like (looks are not very convincing at first glance)

But it's not overly small either. Here you can see it next to the SmoAnt Knight V2 (my current favorite) and the Joyetech evic Primo Mini (upside down on the picture because I was too medicated apparently):

xu4cqGU.png



I'm not a fan of the screwed battery cap, takes a lot of turns to open/close and prone to threads stripping over time. I much prefer magnetic covers. Not a fan of the big name on the sides either...

But the number one show stopper that prevents me from recommending this device is that, at least on my particular exemplar (but it appears I'm not alone) TC mode is simply not working, or I must be doing something terribly wrong. Whatever I try it reverts back to Power mode. This is so annoying.

I contacted fasttech and they told me I could RMA the damn thing but it's too much hassle for me. Alternatively they offered to refund me $10 and I keep the device. So for those interested, you could buy the Witcher on their site and get a $10 rebate just by sending them a video of how it fails to operate in TC mode... or if you are lucky, who knows, you might get one with working TC, in both cases you win heh! :p
 

b0

Cloudy...
So I gave the Witcher a try, and it has been a pretty mixed experience. Construction is ok, I guess, albeit on the heavy side clearly (must be some cast metal alloy inside)

CmqQChQ.png



Comes with two size rings to protect your attachment, as it is a side-by-side design (SBS) It fits the iHeat as well as all three versions of the Project (OG, Eraser and Pure SF) but I don't think it would fit the Splinter.

iUSqHCq.png



It is thumb operated as the trigger is on the top. Feels strange at first but once you hold the whole thing in your hand it makes sense and it's fun to use. The way you grasp it, it feels compact and small. Definitely feels better in the hand that what it looks like (looks are not very convincing at first glance)

But it's not overly small either. Here you can see it next to the SmoAnt Knight V2 (my current favorite) and the Joyetech evic Primo Mini (upside down on the picture because I was too medicated apparently):

xu4cqGU.png



I'm not a fan of the screwed battery cap, takes a lot of turns to open/close and prone to threads stripping over time. I much prefer magnetic covers. Not a fan of the big name on the sides either...

But the number one show stopper that prevents me from recommending this device is that, at least on my particular exemplar (but it appears I'm not alone) TC mode is simply not working, or I must be doing something terribly wrong. Whatever I try it reverts back to Power mode. This is so annoying.

I contacted fasttech and they told me I could RMA the damn thing but it's too much hassle for me. Alternatively they offered to refund me $10 and I keep the device. So for those interested, you could buy the Witcher on their site and get a $10 rebate just by sending them a video of how it fails to operate in TC mode... or if you are lucky, who knows, you might get one with working TC, in both cases you win heh! :p

Thanks for the review mate! So you still recomend the smoant instead, right?
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Right, more compact and TC works very well out of the box without spending ages configuring nerdy details. Very user friendly. Unfortunately the Knight 2 is a hair too small to accept the iHeat, but not by much it's very frustrating! :p
 

rosedale

Well-Known Member
So I gave the Witcher a try, and it has been a pretty mixed experience. Construction is ok, I guess, albeit on the heavy side clearly (must be some cast metal alloy inside)

CmqQChQ.png



Comes with two size rings to protect your attachment, as it is a side-by-side design (SBS) It fits the iHeat as well as all three versions of the Project (OG, Eraser and Pure SF) but I don't think it would fit the Splinter.

iUSqHCq.png



It is thumb operated as the trigger is on the top. Feels strange at first but once you hold the whole thing in your hand it makes sense and it's fun to use. The way you grasp it, it feels compact and small. Definitely feels better in the hand that what it looks like (looks are not very convincing at first glance)

But it's not overly small either. Here you can see it next to the SmoAnt Knight V2 (my current favorite) and the Joyetech evic Primo Mini (upside down on the picture because I was too medicated apparently):

xu4cqGU.png



I'm not a fan of the screwed battery cap, takes a lot of turns to open/close and prone to threads stripping over time. I much prefer magnetic covers. Not a fan of the big name on the sides either...

But the number one show stopper that prevents me from recommending this device is that, at least on my particular exemplar (but it appears I'm not alone) TC mode is simply not working, or I must be doing something terribly wrong. Whatever I try it reverts back to Power mode. This is so annoying.

I contacted fasttech and they told me I could RMA the damn thing but it's too much hassle for me. Alternatively they offered to refund me $10 and I keep the device. So for those interested, you could buy the Witcher on their site and get a $10 rebate just by sending them a video of how it fails to operate in TC mode... or if you are lucky, who knows, you might get one with working TC, in both cases you win heh! :p

Sounds like you have a lot more experience with mods than I do so I apologize if this is an obvious response. I had the same issue with with my Alien reverting to Power Mode when I had my coil type set to the default Nickel. The problem was solved when I set it to Stainless Steel.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Yeah but I tried all three modes, with various attachments and also different power settings. As soon as I press the trigger even just briefly it switches back to power. It's not even like it's trying to heat up in TC mode then gives up, as it does on my Joyetech mods when they are not happy. It just reverts in a blink.

:hmm: :shrug: :shit:
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Yeah but I tried all three modes, with various attachments and also different power settings. As soon as I press the trigger even just briefly it switches back to power. It's not even like it's trying to heat up in TC mode then gives up, as it does on my Joyetech mods when they are not happy. It just reverts in a blink.

:hmm: :shrug: :shit:

Is the resistance of the heater in line with Witcher's minimum requirements to operate in TC mode? That's the only thing I could think of. Joyetechs can fire a pretty wide range of atomizers in temperature control mode. Our Primo Mini's will TC atomizer's from 0.05-1.5ohm.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Yeah I thought it could be that but the specs I found are:
  • Resistance: Kanthal 0.5Ω, SS316 0.3Ω; Ti 0.3Ω; Ni200 0.2Ω

I tested with several attys in the 0.3 to 0.4 range, as well as the 0.5 to 0.6 range. But maybe their specs are reversed and it needs less than 0.3? That would be very awkward... I'm trying to remember but I might have tried a super low ohm build like 0.12 and IIRC it said "atomizer short" so that's probably not the case.

On another site I found these specs:
  • Atomizer Ohm capability in VW mode : 0.5 – 3 Ohm
  • Atomizer Ohm capability in TC mode : 0.2 – 1 Ohm
and oddly it reverts and holds power mode below 0.5, as my iHeat is around 0.35... :shrug:
 

Smoke1ForMe

Well-Known Member

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
Did you end up picking up this mod?

I am in the market for a 2 battery mod for the quartz quest and splinter. I like the look of this one but not totally sold on the screen.

@KeroZen what model smoant are you using?

When i checked out the menu layout - decided it was not for me. Went for an evic cubiod 150w in the end. (Already have a evic vtwo mini)
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@Smoke1ForMe : I use the SmoAnt Knight V2 with the Project Pure SF but it's single cell and both the iHeat and Splinter are too large to fit unfortunately. It's a shame as I much prefer side-by-side designs, by a long shot!
 
KeroZen,
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Cheesequake

Free Men Don't Ask
I got an Evic Primo for my splinter and used it with an ejuice atomizer thing and it works great but TC mode was definitely finicky. I'm hoping it was just the wire I was using or something I was doing wrong because TC mode sounds amazing for the Splinter.

Does putting a different firmware like the Tubo firmware make TC mode work better or is it a hardware issue?
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
There are three different issues: the TC algo / implementation in software, the chipset ADC hardware and the 510 port / atty connection circuit.

myevic/tuboevic and ArticFox improve the first issue clearly by replacing the awful stock TC algo with a proper PI(D) controller that you can finetune. Instead of trying to regulate the temperature with just a "on / off" switch like you have for your light-bulbs, the PID controller is more like the dimmer you have on your halogen lamps.

For 2 the only solution is to use a better chipset like DNA/YiHi/Dicodes/HohmTech and possibly others like OMNI etc. With a low resolution ADC there are only a limited number of resistance "steps" that the software can distinguish (and since TC is entirely based on resistance change detection to compute the theoretical coil temperature...) The lower the atty resistance the larger the measurement error. Unfortunately the Splinter and Tubo are pretty low sub-ohm heaters (I was surprised that the Splinter is so low compared to the Mi and Zi, the mesh must be way smaller) The iHeat and Project are closer to the recommended range for SS heaters.

For 3 it seems to be a bit hit and miss. I once opened my evic VTC mini to see if there was any physical problem on the solder points to the 510 but I saw nothing with my bare eyes. Maybe a microscopic or radiographic inspection would show micro stress lines? I don't know and it's beyond my reach anyway. Your best best is to try to minimize wear by using a 510 extender / heatsink, this way you'll damage the extender port and not the mod (the former being hopefully way cheaper than the latter)
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
Is there somewhere where all the info is in 1 place about best mods for the splinter, tips about using etc. Even simple instructions for those of us unfamiliar with mods. I know it's all here in this thread somewhere but wonder if it's around in a more concentrated state.

I would suggest that you get a mod that works with MYEVIC firmware (list on Tubo website under Tubo x)

You may want to buy an evic based mod for familiarity sake.
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
Last edited:

Other Side

Retailer
Retailer
I was reading some of the reviews on this unit at various sites and a common complaint was that the battery compartment is too tight resulting in ripped battery covers...THAT AIN'T GOOD! :myday::myday::myday:


.
Yep it does suck. About my only complaint on these.
 
Other Side,

kuzko

Well-Known Member
If cost were no issue, what is the perfect mod for the splinter? I seem to be reading that any mod that uses the Tubo firmware/Evic/arctic fox is good but then some mention that having a better “chip” or whatever is best, DNA?

I don’t know much about mods but I just want something simple that works perfectly with the Splinter.
 

little maggie

Well-Known Member
I would suggest that you get a mod that works with MYEVIC firmware (list on Tubo website under Tubo x)

You may want to buy an evic based mod for familiarity sake.
There are so many mods to choose from and they look really nice. I think that I will go with your suggestion since I have tubos. With my whip from Alan I should be all set.
 
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