What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?
- Thread starter AJS
- Start date
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Still kind of tempted... What if it turns out to be fine with an 18650?! Though yeah, I guess the recall followed by the end of production should be a deterrent...
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HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Or what if it doesn't and blows up? Where already using these mods in a way not attended by the manufacture. Saving a buck isn't worth the risk IMHO if you're unsure of a mod quality and safety. I would at least research this mod before or if I had already purchased it.
Might be a moot point with this mod and there nothing to worry about. Having a mod blow up in your hand or close to the face although rare is.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I am leaving my orders as they are (not shipped yet). The VT75D went up $10 and the 75C went up $18!
It is kind of a relief that I should/will not use and 26650 batteries. I have plenty of 18650's but being a bit OCD I would probably have "needed" at least 4 batteries (I was a boy scout in the last century) to "be prepared".
@bossman you should have kept the order and turned around and sell the mod for a profit (there are mods already available in the classifieds for higher than retail prices.).
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
The $100 Paranormal DNA250C deal is back:
https://cheapvaping.deals/authentic-lost-vape-paranormal-dna-250c-box-mod
https://cheapvaping.deals/authentic-lost-vape-paranormal-dna-250c-box-mod
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
This seems like a heck of a deal to someone like me who doesn’t have any box mods but is interested in dipping a toe into that world. Is this a good starter mod for the popular 510 convection devices? For $25 I can live with it being just decent and not OMG the best evar!
Summer
Long Island, NY
It's a very good starter mod. This is the one Vape Critic uses & sells with his G43 vape. Just have 2 batteries on hand for swapping.
If you want a 2 battery model, go with the wismec rueleaux gen 3 dual. & if a 3 battery model, the wismec rueleaux rx200s. With some reservation, the rueleaux rx 2/3.
All these models can be upgraded to sur_myevic software.
Checkout youtube reviews to see each mod.
If you want a 2 battery model, go with the wismec rueleaux gen 3 dual. & if a 3 battery model, the wismec rueleaux rx200s. With some reservation, the rueleaux rx 2/3.
All these models can be upgraded to sur_myevic software.
Checkout youtube reviews to see each mod.
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Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
Thanks! I have looked at the Wismec Reuleaux options and have almost pulled the trigger from time to time but never felt totally sure on it. Unless I can find those mods at a similar price to this $25 deal on the P80 I’ll just go with the P80 for now.
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
P80 ordered, what are some good bang for your buck batteries for it? And what’s a good inexpensive charger for those?
Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
Cheers!
Edit: I see one of those batteries is button top and the other is flat. I have looked and do not see where the specifications are for the P80 in terms of whether or not it will accept a button top. Does anyone know?
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Summer
Long Island, NY
Flat top only. I chose this:
https://liionwholesale.com/collecti...at-top-wholesale-discount?variant=28023302033
This or an inexpensive nitecore:
https://liionwholesale.com/collecti...enook-alien-e4-charger?variant=12194532098142
If you want to go deluxe (which I will at some point in the future) go with the one @bossman recommended.
@KeroZen or any battery knowledgeable sole:
The wismec mods I'm interested in say "discharging current should be above 25A."
That's why I've been choosing the Sony VTC5a:
- Max continuous discharge current: 35A (with temperature cutoff circuitry at 80 degrees C)
- Max continous discharge current without temperature cut: 30A
Sony VTC6:
- Max continuous discharge current: 35A (with temperature cutoff circuitry at 80 degrees C)
- Max continous discharge current without temperature cut:30A
LG HG2 or LG HE2/4 - all having a max discharge if 20A or Sony VTC6a which has:
- Discharge Current: 20A Maximum Continuous, 25A Maximum Continuous with 80C temperature cutoff
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Monk Debate
The monks do be debatin’
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
@Summer: that 25A figure sounds a bit conservative. That being said, don't trust Sony ratings they are exaggerated and indeed only valid if you have a 80°C temperature cutoff (which is not present in any mainstream mod AFAIK)
With the power we need for our use cases, a real 20A CDR cell should be enough for single cell mods (Samsung 25R, LG HE4, Sony VTC5/VTC5A etc) and for dual+ cells mods you can stick with any 18A CDR cell (Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, Sony VTC6)
I personally find Sony cells overpriced and don't see any practical benefit, especially in regulated scenarios. They do provide some extra initial oomph in unregulated vapes like the Milaana, but to me it just makes it harder to control and easier to combust so that's not a selling point. But for elephant lungs users with giant water filtration pieces I can understand the appeal.
With the power we need for our use cases, a real 20A CDR cell should be enough for single cell mods (Samsung 25R, LG HE4, Sony VTC5/VTC5A etc) and for dual+ cells mods you can stick with any 18A CDR cell (Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, Sony VTC6)
I personally find Sony cells overpriced and don't see any practical benefit, especially in regulated scenarios. They do provide some extra initial oomph in unregulated vapes like the Milaana, but to me it just makes it harder to control and easier to combust so that's not a selling point. But for elephant lungs users with giant water filtration pieces I can understand the appeal.
Summer
Long Island, NY
You mean that Wismec is being conservative, right?
Well, will the 20A work just as well as the 18A in the dual battery mods as in the single? Or Is it just the money difference?
BTW, the LG HE4 is a hybrid, which I'm seeing referenced as Li[NiMnCo]O2 (H-NMC) / Graphite + SiO)
- OR -
https://www.batteryjunction.com/lg-he4-inr-18650-batteries-4pack.html
Any + or - to this composite? I would think the con would be that they are for high drain devices which certainly wouldn't apply to our vapes. Or would it? I"m learning, or trying to.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
I'd recommend the 20A cells only for single cell mods, especially if you vape at or above 50W. They are also good in unregulated mods.
Otherwise get the 18A's as they have a larger capacity.
As for the chemistries, I lost track, every brand has its own recipes, but basically all our cells are INR, the evolution of IMR, often times called "hybrid". They are safer than previous chemistries and allow high discharge rates indeed.
cf >> https://batterybro.com/blogs/18650-.../18880255-battery-chemistry-finally-explained
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
And, just to be clear (if I understand correctly), this is for OPTIMAL battery benefit, getting the absolute most from your batteries. Any of the above mentioned batteries CAN be used with either/any of these vapes with no problems. Their performance may be SLIGHTLY less than the ideal pairing, but they will work just fine.
@KeroZen Please comment if you think this is incorrect. You are, after all, my battery guy.
@KeroZen Please comment if you think this is incorrect. You are, after all, my battery guy.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Ah I thought the HG2 had 20A like the HE4, oh well I guess I can't use those with my incoming P80 then? I have plenty of the others, just they have less capacity
Summer
Long Island, NY
Last questions, I promise.
None are listed as 18A per se, rather all are listed at 20A, (but the VTC6 & Samsung 30Q are only rated as 15A) so how can 1 have more capacity than the other if they all have the same mah? And why are the higher amps more conducive for single battery or unregulated vapes while the 2 battery would do better with a lower amp?
And lastly, does amp pulse, i.e. 35 pulse, mean the same as maximum continuous with cutoff?
@Shit Snacks, the LG HG2 is rated at 20A same as the HE4, so it's OK. But now that I see that the Samsung 30Q & VTC6 are only 15A, I wouldn't picked them without KZ's input.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Oh I know Kero has said that the 30Q are underrated so I would presume the HG2 are overrated? And I also believe it is safer to have less amp per battery in a multi-battery mod, because the amps will combine? Whereas in a single you only have the one battery's amps to rely on?
I think he gets most of this research from mooch? Who steered me clear of hcigar
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Yes the HG2 is slightly over-rated. All three 18A cells can do 20A, but their internal resistance is higher than the true 20A cells, so they will sag more at this discharge rate and it's really at the limit for them.
Some tests list the HG2 as true 20A but my own measurements clearly showed the difference in IR vs the LG HE4, so there's no possible magic here, it's not the same discharge rate to me.
Because at 50W you are already super close to the max discharge rate of these cells. In fact if you go the full 75W these single cell mods can offer, you should be using one of the very few 30A CDR cells instead (like LG HB6)
Those using the Tubo at 70W know the dreaded "weak battery" message when they use the 30Q or the HG2. It's because the voltage sag under load is so high that it triggers the mod protection.
In a multi-cell mod, be it a series or parallel configuration, the load is spread and each cell has less work to provide. But if you were aiming at the crazy high (read 140W++) powers, you would face the same issue at some point. Thankfully we never need that much in our applications so that's a non issue.
Pulse ratings are completely arbitrary as there's no agreed standard. So the figures are basically useless. Pulse for how long? With what recovery time? It's impossible to compare and it's quite misleading (and dangerous) in practice. Only good for marketing and fooling users.
In series voltages combine, so effectively a 10A load at 3.7V will become a 5A load at 7.4V in a 2S configuration. It's a bit more complex in a parallel configuration and one should be more careful with proper pairing and not exceeding the CDR.
Mooch does an excellent job and is the most well known, but he's not alone. I try to never rely on a single information source and I also perform tests on my own from time to time.
Some tests list the HG2 as true 20A but my own measurements clearly showed the difference in IR vs the LG HE4, so there's no possible magic here, it's not the same discharge rate to me.
Because at 50W you are already super close to the max discharge rate of these cells. In fact if you go the full 75W these single cell mods can offer, you should be using one of the very few 30A CDR cells instead (like LG HB6)
Those using the Tubo at 70W know the dreaded "weak battery" message when they use the 30Q or the HG2. It's because the voltage sag under load is so high that it triggers the mod protection.
In a multi-cell mod, be it a series or parallel configuration, the load is spread and each cell has less work to provide. But if you were aiming at the crazy high (read 140W++) powers, you would face the same issue at some point. Thankfully we never need that much in our applications so that's a non issue.
Pulse ratings are completely arbitrary as there's no agreed standard. So the figures are basically useless. Pulse for how long? With what recovery time? It's impossible to compare and it's quite misleading (and dangerous) in practice. Only good for marketing and fooling users.
In series voltages combine, so effectively a 10A load at 3.7V will become a 5A load at 7.4V in a 2S configuration. It's a bit more complex in a parallel configuration and one should be more careful with proper pairing and not exceeding the CDR.
Mooch does an excellent job and is the most well known, but he's not alone. I try to never rely on a single information source and I also perform tests on my own from time to time.
I have a question about DNA vs. non-DNA mods for my use case. I have a Splinter v2 on a Paranormal and love the combo, but want to get something smaller. I find that I'm perfectly happy using TC with a single TCR value. I don't use replay or anything else fancy. Is there any benefit to a DNA mod for plain vanilla TC, vs. a non-DNA mod running Arctic Fox or sur_myevic?
Thanks in advance for any sage advice!
Thanks in advance for any sage advice!
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
The short answer is that everything works better with dna or especially a dna-c mod. You can for sure get good results with a modest TC mod and I still use mine occasionally. A dialed in dna250c like the Paranormal is gonna have similar versatility with better performance and more even abv in both wattage and temp modes.
So yeah: get something smaller and save your Paranormal for when the extra size isn't an issue. Folks like the Wismec Sinuous P80 for a single cell TC mod that still runs the different firmware options. The evic VTC Dual or mini is another option.