What box mod are you using / recommending for on-demand convection 510 vapes?

[Summer]

Different chargers will have different cutoff points, so you might end up with an imbalance right from the start.

Don't know how well that mod charges individual cells but if it got good reviews then you can do the initial charge inside. Just make sure to let them sit on the charger for 4 extra hours after it shows 100%.

But if you're charging the batteries in a pair & then 1 batt singularly with the same charger, like SS scenario above, there shouldn't be any imbalance.

And why an extra 4 hours for the initial charge? And, you weren't clear -- an extra 4 hours for charging both internally & externally or just (mod) internally?

 

[KeroZen]

If it's on the same charger then it's the same cutoff and they all should end at the same voltage indeed. But if it's two in some charger and one somewhere else, then there can be a difference.

As for the extra 4 hours, let's say it's just a superstition. It made sense with the previous battery technology which has a lot of memory effect but much less with Li-Ion. Some people didn't find any difference with or without that preconditioning step, but those tests were very superficial.

There is a chance that it makes a difference at the micro and/or nano-scopic level and has an impact later down the battery life. So it doesn't hurt to perform that preconditioning once during the first charge. See it as "teaching the cell how it feels to be fully charged".

Also, it has some clearer usefulness inside appliances having a more advanced BMS with battery gauge etc, in which case the IC needs to see the real maximum charge level in order to properly self calibrate etc (as for instance a laptop APCI battery manager etc, or modern smart phones)

I believe the explanation is that most chargers don't trickle charge Li-Ions as it's not good for them. But if you let the fully charged cells seat for sufficiently long, the resting voltage has a chance to drop down enough to re-trigger a few charge toping cycles maybe. So they end up really fully charged.

 

[Summer]

I believe the explanation is that most chargers don't trickle charge Li-Ions as it's not good for them. But if you let the fully charged cells seat for sufficiently long, the resting voltage has a chance to drop down enough to re-trigger a few charge toping cycles maybe. So they end up really fully charged.[/QUOTE]

Well then instead of keeping them on charge for an add'l. 4 hours, why not let them rest off the charger for a specified time & then top them off again?

See it as "teaching the cell how it feels to be fully charged".

 

[KeroZen]

Well then instead of keeping them on charge for an add'l. 4 hours, why not let them rest off the charger for a specified time & then top them off again?

Because you'd have to do that several times. It's hard to know if and how many times the charger will re-trigger a cycle. And 4h is the minimum to have any meaningful effect, some say to let them sit overnight.

Of course, provided it has really any effect at all. Hence why I prefer to call that practice a superstition, or a urban legend... Let's say it doesn't hurt to do it and it possibly even have positive effects, so it's worth it and since it doesn't require much effort apart from patience...

 

[Summer]

Honestly, @KeroZen, I never understood treating batteries like gold, they're not -- most expensive I've seen for our usage is $10 ea. + ship. I understand the importance of keeping them paired & charged evenly & not storing them above 70 or 80% nor below 20%, but other than that.

 

[KeroZen]

Well in our use case I would agree. But in devices with internal non-removable batteries, or when packs are pricey (ex: e-car, e-bike, smart-phones, laptops etc) it makes more sense.

 

[bossman]

Sooo, my bronze Wismec DNA50 arrived and... I'm an idiot and put the batteries in wrong.

Fixed that, got escribe going, and installed the Splinter and Splinter Z profiles. Gonna take it for a spin and I'll report back..... Aaand we're back! Really nice pairing I have to say. The default Z profile worked great and I finished a basket screen in three long rips with an XL8R.

 

[ChooChooCharlie]

it depends..
Disadvantage
-adjustability- Funny this is also a pain in the ass if all your settings are optimized then the adjustibilty becomes a hassle. Example-While using the Z on a paranormal 250C if I want to bump the temp up a few degrees I would have to scroll to the temperature,select it, and then increase the temp. It's an extra step but it really annoys me because I'll have to do this a few times each session. On a regular DNA mod to adjust temp you merely press the up and down buttons.

Besides these differences the devices should perform similarly once all the variables are tweaked. I like the regular DNA board for using atomizers that I have everything figured out and the 250C for everything else

I watched a youtube vid shared by Herbie on DNA C firmware, and there is a theme designer for the mod's screen. Icon actions can be changed to suit. Watching it reminded me of doing GUI front end Windows 3.1 terminal screens for AS/400 in '90s.

But biggest drag is built-in timeout. Using Herbie's profile I was able to get a twenty second draw. Replay on the C is sweet, no resistance mess to deal with, but couldn't get it to fire more than ten seconds.

 

[almost there]

Sooo, my bronze Wismec dna250 arrived and it's just saying SHORTED. Before attaching anything to it I loaded the Splinter and SplinterZ profiles from the Evolv forum link shared a page back. I also fully charged all three 30Qs so they'd be well-matched for the mod. The settings updated successfully but maybe the 510 threads on my Splinters aren't long enough to make contact? Kinda anticlimactic. In any case, it doesn't fire.

Also the battery shaped indicator is empty with just a white outline and a black interior, which to my eye reads like the battery level is at zero when really all three cells just finished charging.

none of what you said sounds right, get a replacement or a refund

@ChooChooCharlie is it firing more than 10 seconds now, you definitely can change that to 20

 

[Shit Snacks]

Oh can I plug my RX DNA250 into load escribe stuff without batteries?

 

[ChooChooCharlie]

@ChooChooCharlie is it firing more than 10 seconds now, you definitely can change that to 20

When I did have it, I changed the escribe value, but when I used replay it still timed out at ten. Only using Herbie's profile (non-replay) was I able to get twenty seconds. Don't think the Replay time can be altered, but I may be wrong. Gave mods and vapes away, so i can't retest. I couldn't deal with the ergonomics

 

[bossman]

none of what you said sounds right, get a replacement or a refund

I was a dumbass and got one of the batteries in wrong probably from hurrying. I fixed my error and updated the post. Good looking out man, thanks.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Well this is confusing haha

Think I have it loaded fumbling through escribe, but how to actually use a profile or know which one I am using? also not sure how to set the resistance myself, like how to access a menu for settings etc? I am only really familiar with Tubo software (and the RXG3D only slightly) Trying with the iHeat and was going to scorch bc it obviously wasnt set up properly and I know I lost the cold resistance... Now I see how to lock it to what it is (I think) but nothing else lol

 

[little maggie]

I'm finding my p80 perfect for my splinter. Are those of you who switched to dna mods finding that significant a difference?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Well this is confusing haha

Think I have it loaded fumbling through escribe, but how to actually use a profile or know which one I am using? also not sure how to set the resistance myself, like how to access a menu for settings etc? I am only really familiar with Tubo software (and the RXG3D only slightly) Trying with the iHeat and was going to scorch bc it obviously wasnt set up properly and I know I lost the cold resistance... Now I see how to lock it to what it is (I think) but nothing else lol

So I did read the manual (duh) and discover how to load the proper profile. However after previously allowing it to cool off before locking in my cold resistance successfully (but with horrible temp control) I now see the resistance at zero along with the volts and other number at the bottom inside the iHeat profile. A little afraid to try it again this way after quick scorching hotspots before, so I will wait for my new batteries

Speaking of, back to the first charge battery stuff for a second @KeroZen et al: What if I do charge them in different chargers, but both Nitecore? The pair in an i2 and then one in a d2...? Is it okay?

(This is why I don't want to spend money on a new 4bay @cybrguy since I got the best battery deal I could find and was planning to just leave them in the mod as my only throuple with it all going into the total cost of an already unnecessary purchase lol So I agree with @Summer about batts being replaceable means use em til they fail? Though I do hope the RX DNA250 will charge em properly itself)

 

[KeroZen]

Since they're most likely not using high precision components for their references, each charger will be slightly different. And in fact, in entry level chargers each bay/slot might be slightly different.

I once had a hobby charger that looked fine on display with all cells ending at 4.20V. I used it for a couple of years before realizing that the 3rd cell was charged to 4.23V every time! (exceeding 4.20V is bad, even if there's some tolerance)

So until you can characterize each bay with a good external trusted voltmeter, you won't be able to know for sure. That being said, with two different chargers of the same brand you can expect less variation than say with a nitecore i2 which tends to charge fully close to 4.2V resting voltage vs say a evic VTC mini which tends to cut lower and ends closer to 4.1xV (speaking from experience here as I use both almost daily)

Conclusion: don't sweat it too much, especially if it's only once and you charge in your mod afterwards.

 

[bossman]

Well this is confusing haha

Think I have it loaded fumbling through escribe, but how to actually use a profile or know which one I am using? also not sure how to set the resistance myself, like how to access a menu for settings etc? I am only really familiar with Tubo software (and the RXG3D only slightly) Trying with the iHeat and was going to scorch bc it obviously wasnt set up properly and I know I lost the cold resistance... Now I see how to lock it to what it is (I think) but nothing else lol

I'm brand new to DNA mods having only received my Wismec bronze DNA250 yesterday. Once I found Service Pack 18 and 19 to get eScribe launched and running on my mac laptop I found the eScribe profiles page to be pretty straight-forward since all I was looking to do was load the .ecigprofiles for the Splinter and Z I'd downloaded from this page.

One thing I noticed was that the DNA250 ecigprofile has the Z powered at 60W. I'm wondering if I should experiment with higher wattage TC profiles on my rxg3d now. I don't understand how the settings interact. Maybe there's a profile with a lower TC but higher wattage that would work better? Or maybe this is the DNA difference and I'm not gonna get the kind of control and consistency from my TC mods running Arctic Fox, I dunno.

I'm finding my p80 perfect for my splinter. Are those of you who switched to dna mods finding that significant a difference?

After just one evening of use my early report is that my Splinter Z performs better on the DNA250 mod with the ecigprofile linked above than when it's paired with my RX Gen3 Dual running Arctic Fox. What I don't know yet is how much of the performance difference is inherent to the DNA stuff. My RX gen3 settings for the Z were borrowed from @Ctipp22 (TC160 or 165, 40W, .4ohms locked). Both those and the similar Splinter settings (.23ohms locked) have performed well and I'd recommend anyone try them. That said my temps have seemed low (in the 350 to 380 range) and I was doing more stirring and seeing more hot spots with each big hit.

The bronze DNA250 is bulky in person. I don't prefer or need the three cell size for my use. My setup is made more obnoxious because I have a long XL8R cooling stem. The whole contraption with the bigger mod, bigger Splinter Z body, and a long cooling stem is unwieldy and silly looking. Despite being bigger the wismec has more overhang too.

But I gotta say the Z works really really well. It's a marked performance improvement over the other mods I have. The cooling stem makes it difficult to feel any sort of heat buildup during your draw, which was making it trickier to manage big hits on the rxg3d. The same Z and XL8R on the DNA250 heats more evenly and I can draw as long or hard as I like and always be pleasantly surprised by how the abv is looking. The temp in the Z profile was set to 385º. A basket screen temp stepping from 365 to 385 was easy and awesome.

My early experience with the bronze Wismec kinda has me wanting to find a deal on a two cell DNA like a Paranormal even if it's undersized for the Z. I don't love the small sideways screen and less usable interface of the DNA250. The performance has been the best I've seen though and I'm thinking now that I should try to tweak my Arctic Fox profiles on my other mods.

 

[little maggie]

Has anyone here used the hcigar that Alan recommended. Mine is going to be used for the iheat and havent tried it yet.

 

[cybrguy]

The bronze DNA250 is bulky in person. I don't prefer or need the three cell size for my use. Despite being bigger the wismec has more overhang too.

Well, none of this is very attractive. The overhang is disturbing for the unbalance (over glass) and extra weight. I always use my 2/3 with 2 cells and really don't need 3. Still, I love the bronze look and your performance comments sound enticing. And performance is why I am thinking DNA to begin with.

Maybe I should also be looking for a different DNA with 2 batteries and forgo the bronze. Staying under $80 isn't easy either.
I will just be watching for a while I guess...

 

[Easywider]

I’ve been enjoying the Lostvape Triad.

 

[bossman]

That Triade has a nicer fit. This Wismec was the deal though. After another Z run, this time with a short standard stem, I continue to be impressed.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah @cybrguy I actually really like the ergonomics of this bronze RX DNA, it can rest to offset SZ (maybe not as perfect as my G3D but almost as compact), I bet it'd be better with a regular Splinter though (great now I need one of those!)

The Triade looks like a good fit, really makes it feel like an LSV! Still a little tempted to try that and the P80 but no more mod purchases by me allowed!

Edit for photos of my Canarywood SplinterZ on RX Gen3Dual (brushed gunmetal) and my OsageOrange iHeat on RX DNA250 (brushed bronze) together:

Still not really sure if I've got the DNA setup right, like what exactly is the profile doing? There was stuff mentioned in the place where I downloaded them that suggested material options I just don't see available in the mod... And escribe just has way too much going on to know what I'm doing exactly, all I know is I did get the FC interface and profiles loaded at least, whatever that actually means

 

[sickmanfraud]

The overhang is disturbing for the unbalance (over glass) and extra weight

I have mentioned this many times before, If using a device primarily with a water tool one should seriously consider a TUBOx where the battery (mod) and heater are joined by a cable so the battery (weight) is "on the ground".

 

[cybrguy]

I have mentioned this many times before, If using a device primarily with a water tool one should seriously consider a TUBOx where the battery (mod) and heater are joined by a cable so the battery (weight) is "on the ground".

And I have seen it many times and considered it for your very point, but have rejected it on the idea that I would then have 2 devices to try and manage simultaneously rather than one that is longer. Most of the time when I use these devices I am hand holding them even on glass, not using them on a desktop, and a second piece on a cord would be awkward. For me at least.

While I would prefer not to have a big overhang, the only time one might be of serious concern is when I might leave it assembled sitting in my vape station, and pulling it off the glass when at rest shouldn't be a big deal. Less of a big deal than the second connected component surely.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I never leave mine sitting on a bubbler and I don't think I ever would? Never did that with Zion either, or like anyting maybe? My torch powered vapes are the only I can think of where I've done that...

I think I've got the RXdna working solid with the IH for now, I will try it with my SplinterZ eventually, but not for a bit as I settle in with too many options already