Warm Pine Homemade Log Vaporizer
- Thread starter Darkhood
- Start date
-
- Tags
- diy log vaporizer
Nice work!
I'm a little unclear on how the wire helps mount the tube, could you explain in more detail? Im trying to figure out how I'm going to mount my heater tubes in my own log vape projects.
Do you have any concerns about the heating elements materials? Ie, is it lead free and rohs compliment? I've been eary about soldering irons for vaping because I just don't know what materials are in them so I'd like to know more.
In any case great job! Can't wait to see future versions if you're planning in improving it.
I'm a little unclear on how the wire helps mount the tube, could you explain in more detail? Im trying to figure out how I'm going to mount my heater tubes in my own log vape projects.
Do you have any concerns about the heating elements materials? Ie, is it lead free and rohs compliment? I've been eary about soldering irons for vaping because I just don't know what materials are in them so I'd like to know more.
In any case great job! Can't wait to see future versions if you're planning in improving it.
Hey welcome 
Good effort on the homemade vape! - Especially if you are having success with it. It looks interesting.
I am in agreement with @ZC, & would ask what is the composition of the heating element in the soldering iron that you have used?
If you have used something trusted like a Hakko with a ceramic element you should be all good.
For health reasons, only soldering irons with ceramic heating elements should really be used if you intend to inhale the air that has been heated by passing over it.
Once again, welcome to the forum bud, - I look forward to reading further posts from you on this subject.
Good effort on the homemade vape! - Especially if you are having success with it. It looks interesting.
I am in agreement with @ZC, & would ask what is the composition of the heating element in the soldering iron that you have used?
If you have used something trusted like a Hakko with a ceramic element you should be all good.
For health reasons, only soldering irons with ceramic heating elements should really be used if you intend to inhale the air that has been heated by passing over it.
Once again, welcome to the forum bud, - I look forward to reading further posts from you on this subject.
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
The wire is tight on the tube and the extra wire is twisted then bent into a L shape. The top mounting piece then goes over the tube and the wire becomes compressed between the top mount and bottom mount.
I have concerns on some of the materials. When I first was testing it I shined a light on it to see if any vapors were coming off of it and none did and still don't. This does not mean it is 100% and that's why i need peoples input on this to see if any materials I chose to use are going to be toxic. So far I know its made out of some kind of steel. Also there is no extra kind of flavors other then a small hint of pine.
For more info on the heating element it is a ceramic element inside of a steel shell.
momofthegoons
vapor accessory addict
Looks a little like the old Eterra.
I can't speak for all the log vapes, but most of them use stainless steel for any metal parts. In the CRZ's case, it was surgical grade. If it's a ceramic heating element it shouldn't be a problem since all log vapes use them. The wire.... I guess it depends on the make up of it. In the waxpens, using nichrome in the atty gives off a taste and titanium is preferred. I don't know if that would be necessary in an application like this.
Imo, anything in the air path that could potentially off gas an undesirable shouldn't be used. So without knowledge of the exact materials you've used, it's hard for any of us to really critique your vape as to it's safety.
I can't speak for all the log vapes, but most of them use stainless steel for any metal parts. In the CRZ's case, it was surgical grade. If it's a ceramic heating element it shouldn't be a problem since all log vapes use them. The wire.... I guess it depends on the make up of it. In the waxpens, using nichrome in the atty gives off a taste and titanium is preferred. I don't know if that would be necessary in an application like this.
Imo, anything in the air path that could potentially off gas an undesirable shouldn't be used. So without knowledge of the exact materials you've used, it's hard for any of us to really critique your vape as to it's safety.
Last edited:
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
I just found the heating element in a parts bin so i don't know what kind of soldering iron its from.
I plan on making a video but more testing and adjustments need to be done first.
Grim Chiclets
Well-Known Member
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
Yes I'm using a dimmer switch. I'm having a problem getting the right temperature but I'll probably find the sweet spot threw more testing.All the obvious questions out of the way now- have you tried using a dimmer switch/cable to adjust the heat? It's always awesome to get that sweet spot where it's impossible to get combustion on a log
And yeah I'm totally with @nondarb , you found the right forum
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Nice one dude.
More details would be good.
What kind of soldering iron heater?
What wattage?
What's in the air path?
If you're able to do a function vid, that would really show what your vape is capable of.
I like that your log vape isn't round, makes a change, more of a 'post vape'!
More details would be good.
What kind of soldering iron heater?
What wattage?
What's in the air path?
If you're able to do a function vid, that would really show what your vape is capable of.
I like that your log vape isn't round, makes a change
, more of a 'post vape'!
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
A short video I made of it working. (Sorry for the small hit)
The ABV after about 3 hits. (Sorry for the bad picture)
I decided to upgrade the internals of this vape so I know that its 100% safe to use and not harmful. I will post more about this project when the new parts come in.
The ABV after about 3 hits. (Sorry for the bad picture)
I decided to upgrade the internals of this vape so I know that its 100% safe to use and not harmful. I will post more about this project when the new parts come in.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Looks like great vapor!
Looking forward to your further developments.
I've wanted to build a log type device for a while, and your experiences should help if I go ahead, so thanks for posting
I have a 32Volt battery which I'd like to hook up to a halogen bulb, but mught go with a more conventional heater now since seeing the Warm Pine.
Looking forward to your further developments.
I've wanted to build a log type device for a while, and your experiences should help if I go ahead, so thanks for posting
I have a 32Volt battery which I'd like to hook up to a halogen bulb, but mught go with a more conventional heater now since seeing the Warm Pine.
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
I'm actually going to upgrade to a halogen bulb instead of this unknown soldering iron heater.Looks like great vapor!
Looking forward to your further developments.
I've wanted to build a log type device for a while, and your experiences should help if I go ahead, so thanks for posting
I have a 32Volt battery which I'd like to hook up to a halogen bulb, but mught go with a more conventional heater now since seeing the Warm Pine.
The metal tube is also going to be replaced with a glass one.
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
Darkhood when you settle on your design would you be interested in posting a step-by-step? I've got a great interest in this myself.
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
The halogen bulb that I'm getting is a 50 watt 12v bulb so I will be powering it with my bench power supply.Ha!
That's awesome Darkhood
Great minds, and all that
I'm even more keen to hear your results now!
Are you going to use the power supply from your soldering iron?
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Good luck man 
50W bulbs seem to be used by production vapes, so I'd guess that they're a good choice.
Since I'll have 32V DC to play with from the battery I hope to use, I think I'll be able to go as high as 250W if I want to!
My own thoughts are to use the bulb mainly to heat the air path rather than direct radiation.
And since I'd like to attempt instant heat rather that 'soaking' a heatsink I may need the extra power.
I'm not fond of the wasteful nature of 'always on' logs/nails, or the wait to reach operating temps if they have been switched off.
My main reservation is my ignorance of how halogen bulbs work, I suspect they may not function for long if I run them below their rated voltage, so simply fitting a dimmer to control results might result in reduced bulb life (or might even not work at all for all I know!)
I need to do some more reading on this.
I'll be watching your progress closely to learn as much as I can!
50W bulbs seem to be used by production vapes, so I'd guess that they're a good choice.
Since I'll have 32V DC to play with from the battery I hope to use, I think I'll be able to go as high as 250W if I want to!
My own thoughts are to use the bulb mainly to heat the air path rather than direct radiation.
And since I'd like to attempt instant heat rather that 'soaking' a heatsink I may need the extra power.
I'm not fond of the wasteful nature of 'always on' logs/nails, or the wait to reach operating temps if they have been switched off.
My main reservation is my ignorance of how halogen bulbs work, I suspect they may not function for long if I run them below their rated voltage, so simply fitting a dimmer to control results might result in reduced bulb life (or might even not work at all for all I know!)
I need to do some more reading on this.
I'll be watching your progress closely to learn as much as I can!
nondarb
.
vb
What happened?! What's going on there?
An older video of testing it out
The newest version. Probably going to make a pine handle for it so the name is still relevant.
What happened?! What's going on there?
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
The new design works about the same as the older design. The only difference is how the glass tube attaches to the core. The new connector is a 1/2 hole at the tip of the core. The glass tube then slides into this hole and is sealed with a o-ring on the tube.
The core is a glass test tube with an air intake hole on the side of it. The aluminum foil traps more heat and stops the light from blinding me.
The core is a glass test tube with an air intake hole on the side of it. The aluminum foil traps more heat and stops the light from blinding me.
I think the utopia is gonna be a light bulb log. I am guess though.
@Darkhood What do you like about using the bulb vs the soldering iron?
Darkhood
Well-Known Member
@jojo monkey The bulb produces a cleaner flavor and is made out a safer material then the soldering iron. The only thing I don't like about it is how easily it looses its heat unlike the soldering iron. I was thinking about adding some glass marbles to the heat core to fix this problem but have yet to test it out.