What's up family thanks for the forum contributions. All of our VWTs (Vaporization Water Tools) are designed specifically for vapor with the beaker venturi and lazy boy kickback neck design which essentially means you'll benefit from vapor-specific thought out ergonomics for having a nice line of sight to the VCB and heat interface (literally watch the herbs brown, see vapor back draft if you pause the pull, and watch concentrates melt into flower filters if you've got the head space), a reasonable amount of drag (you probably want some for pacing vapor pulls unlike some people's preferences of as little as possible for smoking), and an ice catch on the tubes, i.e. Pro and Perk models.
I've always been fond of ice not just for the cooling, but because it takes up air volume to get the pulls going faster and also minimizes oxidation of the first pulls. Given I prefer running a lower temp and milking it skim milk blue with a primer pull or two as opposed to running a higher temp and being conscious not to over heat by cracking the seal during pauses or by increasing pull rate (still a great technique just not my preference) it's nice to have the air volume in the tube minimized by being able to pack it full of ice! I run the PerK for sure on a day to day basis when at home and on the mountain in our geodome at base camp and I run a BuB in the truck for those mobile opportunities to melt flowers that seem to magically pop up throughout the day sometimes (give thanks for manifestations of aromatic greatness in the line of "work"). I've had the opportunity to use some really, really nice glass pieces and even own a few sick pieces, but always come back to the PerK as my favorite daily driver --- it never fails to impress with it's simple super utility. There are definitely thicker and fancier and bigger pieces out there, but the PerK's ultimate utility is tough to beat for VRIPs anyway even with pieces costing multiples of what the PerK costs!
The VHWs should only be left on stand-by full melt heat settings laying relatively flat on a heat proof surface. Leaving them inverted in a stand or a mason jar or coffee mug or similar can lead to the board getting over heated and the tip seal (if you're running one) getting dried out pretty quick. Inverting in the stand, jar, or mug
will enable a faster heat up though and also some people tune into the extra heat that accumulates allowing them to use a lower more conservative heat setting, but still benefit a faster milk-up --- all good, no all really, really good just don't leave it in there on full heat for extended periods --- it needs to be used, i.e. taken in and out so the heat doesn't accumulate so much that it can back up into the housing and damage the board (should take many hours of heat backing up to only maybe damage the board, but our recommendation is to keep it relatively flat for extended full heat stand-by or just simply plan ahead for the next session instead of leaving it on or you can also use a low heat stand-by mode that will still benefit a faster heat up). Hope that helps clarify and definitely don't hold up sending an email to
info@vriptech.com for ShadowVape to field any questions regarding product or usage tips.
