Vorrange sounds like you're getting it dialed in for your preferences, but I know Shadow was hitting me up for the VT1 (variable transistor 1) adjustment template document that we created awhile back to reply to a CS email just recieved so I'm assuming that may have been yours --- we'll get you the info requested ASAP, but I'll also post it here for everyone's viewing pleasure. I'll qualify the post first though with saying that in most cases just following the technique tips and packing enough high oil content herb to create a reasonable amount of drag is key to getting it to milk up thick and blue WITHOUT requiring a full dark browning which will indicate a hybrid smoke/vapor as opposed to a nicely condensed full spectrum vapor right to the brink of smoke, but without any components in smoke (which will start first with Benzene which is best avoided IMHO). Afterall thick and blue is what we're all about!!! No dark browning required --- light browning only.
That said, we absolutely acknowledge that some customers like it that way and it's all good we aim to please all tastes. As you've figured out by moving the silicon tip seal a tad down (must be done first few uses otherwise you'll need to get a new one as they stick after heated) will put the end of the wand a bit closer and this will help the higher heat cause for sure. Also, it's important to maintain the seal between wand and intake and allow for a good radiant heat foundation before beginning the slow primer pull(s) (convective) to milk it blue --- the longer the static heat up and the slower the pulls the higher the apparant heat relative to the setting on the temp dial. By using the VHW stand or a coffee mug and letting the VHW heat up inverted before using will put a little extra heat in there for those that want higher heat or simply want to be able to pull faster from the jump --- just don't leave it inverted on full heat for extended periods as this will cook the tip seal and can damage the board. As some of you have surely figured out if you do forget about the wand and leave it on full heat in the stand for awhile and then come back, pack, seal, and pull as you normally would you'll likely end up with the darker brown ABV (or load carcass as we affectionately have always called it) and hybrid smoke/vapor by accident --- just pull faster and skip the seal and pause radiant heat up step if this is the case and you should be good next time you spend a little longer preheating the wand than intended or simply enter a time warp because the first Vrip was so effective! One thing that is nice about the Vrip system is that since it's just a glass bowl your herbs are within view and if used with a clear (or at least partly clear) glass water tool for delivery you can SEE the vapor consistency and adjust on the fly potentially even before tasting it so if it's coming too thick and getting white on you just crack the seal a tad and/or pull faster. Then adjust the temp dial a little for the next round.
VT1 Adjustment Steps:
1. Remove the retaining screw and carefully remove the glass cover
2. Pull temp dial straight up and out of the potentiometer hex receptacle on the board (if you don't have long enough fingernails to get a good grab on it just use a small flat head or similar and carefully leverage it off the housing --- shouldn't require much force --- or a small set of fine jaw pliers is actually the pro way to do it if you've got the tool just don't squeeze too hard and damage the dial)
3. Gently push from where the power cord enters the housing and the whole board will start to slide forward as the black (or gray if older model) housing plug at the other end of the housing comes loose and also moves forward --- you will only have to slide it about 1.5 cm forward as VT1 is the first variable transistor on the board below the potentiometer (it is the blue box with a white phillips head screw dial just above VT2 which looks exactly the same). On most boards you can actually see a "VT1" marking next to it if you look closely. You will access it through the hole in the housing that the temp dial normally goes into
4. With a small phillips or flat head screwdriver gently turn the white screw dial counterclockwise until it stops --- this won't be much of a turn at all since they are set fairly wide open to start with -- then turn clockwise slightly less than you turned counter clockwise (again we're talking fractions of the calibration marks)
5. Reinstall the glass cover carefully positioning the compression o-ring so that the element sits approximately centered in the glass cover when compressed with your thumb over the hole for the retaining screw. We leave a clear glass cat-eye on the tip of the inner cover that encapsulated the element so that you can see the end of the element. It doesn't have to be perfectly centered, but shouldn't be laying against the glass at the tip where it glows orange. EXTRA CAREFULLY insert and tighten the retaining screw with stainless and silicon washers so that the play is taken up --- do not crank on this it will break the glass cover!!! Just tighten enough to hold it in place gently the compression o-ring will do most of the "snugging."
That's all that should be required to get a little more heat by board adjustment, but we caution against doing this as it really shouldn't be required if everything else is working right, i.e. all pieces are properly sealed, all technique tips are being followed, herbs are packed sufficiently and high enough oil content to affect a thick vapor in the first place, and the element is in good shape. If a wand begins to require a higher setting/slower pulls to get vapor on par with what it delivered with lower setting/faster finish pulls previously it's usually a sign the element is just getting up there in age and you should consider the element replacement service. Also, since we sometimes get customers that complain about not getting the vapor as thick as they want and it turns out they just aren't packing much at a time and prefer smaller bowls this is a good chance for me to point out that we have two size glass screens and the larger ones will sit in the top of the bowl allowing shallow packs closer to the heat which is perfect for those that prefer to pack less at a time, but still want it to milk up nicely --- also perfect for those taste testing sittings when you know you've got more than a couple of flaves you want to session! Speaking of which time to follow up the Girl Scout Cookies with some Fire OG milk and it's off to bed….