Vlad/508Phineas Glass thread

[Vlad the Inhaler]

The Woodscents stems use the Dynavap Tips. You can use anything you want for a Woodscents log stem, as long as it fits a Dynavap tip.

That's why I have two Woodscents logs, and will probably be in the market for a third after the holidays!



^ Are those supposed to be Ood heads, or simply Octopuses?

Oh! That's cool I had no idea WS were so versitile... I may have to invest in one of those eventually.

And they were just octopuses originally but now that you mention it they do look Ood-ish!

 

[Ramahs]

Oh! That's cool I had no idea WS were so versitile... I may have to invest in one of those eventually.

And they were just octopuses originally but now that you mention it they do look Ood-ish!

Yeah, and the red eyes on one, and white eyes on the other, also made me think Ood. lol

 

[Shit Snacks]

Welcome @Vlad the Inhaler !!

Those underdog stems are beautiful, would be great to have more custom options for 18mm stem vapes, I love my bent stems (I wonder if you are @mistvape's friend who made me a couple for my RBT vapes a while ago?)

I think you can focus on using your Splinter Z as a test, any stems that fit that will also fit Tubo and others, except the for the standard Splinter which will need 19mm joint length instead of the 22mm length of the Z (that size is even more rare so would be really nice to have some nice bent stems for it too!)

I wonder if it might be a good idea to make some custom stems for the Fierce and Fury2/Edge as well... Glass stem convection vapes are the best imo!

Looking forward to seeing what you might whip up as you got your shop all set. Good luck dude!

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

Welcome @Vlad the Inhaler !!

Those underdog stems are beautiful, would be great to have more custom options for 18mm stem vapes, I love my bent stems (I wonder if you are @mistvape's friend who made me a couple for my RBT vapes a while ago?)

I think you can focus on using your Splinter Z as a test, any stems that fit that will also fit Tubo and others, except the for the standard Splinter which will need 19mm joint length instead of the 22mm length of the Z (that size is even more rare so would be really nice to have some nice bent stems for it too!)

I wonder if it might be a good idea to make some custom stems for the Fierce and Fury2/Edge as well... Glass stem convection vapes are the best imo!

Looking forward to seeing what you might whip up as you got your shop all set. Good luck dude!

@Shit Snacks Oh that wasn't me, but i'm pretty sure I know who did make your bent stems. Thanks for the advice I've actually been waiting on a bunch of 19/22 GonG joints to arrive for that exact purpose. Thankfully they came in so I actually have a few cooling stems available now!

 

[Shit Snacks]

@Shit Snacks Oh that wasn't me, but i'm pretty sure I know who did make your bent stems. Thanks for the advice I've actually been waiting on a bunch of 19/22 GonG joints to arrive for that exact purpose. Thankfully they came in so I actually have a few cooling stems available now!

Haha cool! I know Mr. Mist has quite a few gifted friends...

And that's awesome, I'd love to see what you've come up with!

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

Haha cool! I know Mr. Mist has quite a few gifted friends...

And that's awesome, I'd love to see what you've come up with!

Just posted them to my instagram: @508phineas

 

[Shit Snacks]

Just posted them to my instagram: @508phineas

Following!

These look really nice man! How much are you selling them for btw?

Might it be possible to do the reverse with the flared mouthpiece instead being a slight taper?

And you know I'm going to ask about bending it too!

Oh there is a new vape coming that uses a different glass stem, a straight tube no ground glass, called TinyMight out of Finland. I think there is going to be quite a bit of demand for glass cooling stems that will fit that one...

I also really dig all your octopus stuff, I think I may need to do a custom order for a water piece adapter for my Heat Islands... I have both a steel standard core and glass hybrid core HI, so probably should get one for each! An 18mm and 14mm of course. I'll be in touch!

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

@Shit Snacks Thanks! I got a chance to try one out last night and they work great too, and yes I can do a taper instead of a bead on the end AND bend it if you'd like!

DM me on Instagram and we can talk price on this and future projects, I'm new to this forum thing and I don't want to step on proverbial toes selling stuff in the wrong areas.

That TinyMight looks really interesting, looks like they're using Quartz glass for their vapes I'll definitely keep an eye on that...

 

[Shit Snacks]

@Shit Snacks Thanks! I got a chance to try one out last night and they work great too, and yes I can do a taper instead of a bead on the end AND bend it if you'd like!

DM me on Instagram and we can talk price on this and future projects, I'm new to this forum thing and I don't want to step on proverbial toes selling stuff in the wrong areas.

That TinyMight looks really interesting, looks like they're using Quartz glass for their vapes I'll definitely keep an eye on that...

Nice! I will hit you up on IG when I'm ready to order, probably next month.

I think it is no problem to sell custom work in the messages here, just like the classifieds for member to member transactions. You will only need an "Accessory Maker" tag under your username, am I missing anything @Stu or @pakalolo?

And yeah TinyMight has quartz and a different diameter, with a steel cooling unit inside the glass that also holds the screen. Folks in the thread for it already expressed interest in all-glass cooling stem options though it is still early.

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

I've been wicked busy with the holiday season so I haven't had a lot of time to post anything, but i just thought stop in to share some Underdog stems I've been working on!

 

[CANtalk]

Looks great @Vlad the Inhaler. Sent you another PM. Thx

 

[AcidFlashbang]

Can you make me an elev8r bowl? Im not happy with the stock one because it flares out leading to there being a few pieces of weed considerably less extracted than the rest. Its a 14mm male with space to put weed then a 18mm female joint on top. Something like this but without the flare in the bowl

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

Can you make me an elev8r bowl? Im not happy with the stock one because it flares out leading to there being a few pieces of weed considerably less extracted than the rest. Its a 14mm male with space to put weed then a 18mm female joint on top. Something like this but without the flare in the bowl

@AcidFlashbang I see what you're saying about how the bowl flairs out after the small part of the taper on the ground part of the joint.

That's because those types of ground glass joints are made by basically heating and crimping down the end of a 22mm pyrex tube forming that nice flared taper that then gets ground down for that nice fit. That little difference in diameter between the narrow part of the flair and the original 22mm diameter of the tube is what causes that flair that's troubling you.

So unfortunately I think that is going to be the case with every factory made glass joint.
I'm not saying it cant be done, just there may be some other solution to browning your bud evenly.

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

I have a handful UD stems and a few 19/22 cooling stems available








These last two are just for show

 

[LabPong]

Can you make me an elev8r bowl? Im not happy with the stock one because it flares out leading to there being a few pieces of weed considerably less extracted than the rest. Its a 14mm male with space to put weed then a 18mm female joint on top. Something like this but without the flare in the bowl

Yes there is a bit of a shelf there, but you should stir.....I stir after ever hit. I also use a coil with no sick clip. The coil barely grabs the heater and you can lift it off and quick stir.....torching like that would be scary unsafe though without a clip.

@AcidFlashbang I see what you're saying about how the bowl flairs out after the small part of the taper on the ground part of the joint.

That's because those types of ground glass joints are made by basically heating and crimping down the end of a 22mm pyrex tube forming that nice flared taper that then gets ground down for that nice fit. That little difference in diameter between the narrow part of the flair and the original 22mm diameter of the tube is what causes that flair that's troubling you.

So unfortunately I think that is going to be the case with every factory made glass joint.
I'm not saying it cant be done, just there may be some other solution to browning your bud evenly.

Actually with the Elev8r bowl....that ledge inside is because it is an 18mm entrance into a 14mm exit....so there is a pinch more so because of that little space available with the 14mm male joint at the bottom.
But I do have a slightly smaller 18/14 adapter that has a larger exit out of the bowl bottom into the 14mm male joint. Sometimes I use that for smaller loads or if I mix kief into some flower.

And here is a pic showing the outline of the exit holes on both (on left side of pic) from when I used these bowls with my Flowerpot showerhead setup.

 

[Brewervapesalot]

ANYTHING FOR THE TINY MIGHT...

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

ANYTHING FOR THE TINY MIGHT...

I don't have anything at the moment for the tiny might but if there's enough interest I might consider doing a small batch. quartz, the kind of glass tiny might stems are made of, is expensive as a raw material and more difficult to work with than normal Pyrex. Also it only comes in clear so unfortunately I won't be making any heady stems...

Thanks for explaining that in layman's terms @LabPong I had assumed the ledge at the top near the bottom of the 19/20 female joint, not the bottom of the bowl where the 14/20 joint is attached. I would love to see your setup but for some reason your pics aren't showing up.

Also just had to throw this in here, but I just got my first dynavap the other day (and really enjoying it) so I'm excited to start making pieces for that too! I already have a couple ideas kicking around...

 

[Brewervapesalot]

I don't have anything at the moment for the tiny might but if there's enough interest I might consider doing a small batch. quartz, the kind of glass tiny might stems are made of, is expensive as a raw material and more difficult to work with than normal Pyrex. Also it only comes in clear so unfortunately I won't be making any heady stems...

Thanks for explaining that in layman's terms @LabPong I had assumed the ledge at the top near the bottom of the 19/20 female joint, not the bottom of the bowl where the 14/20 joint is attached. I would love to see your setup but for some reason your pics aren't showing up.

Also just had to throw this in here, but I just got my first dynavap the other day (and really enjoying it) so I'm excited to start making pieces for that too! I already have a couple ideas kicking around...

Thank you sir, stems of different lengths, tapered mouthpieces, glass screens in the stem, water pipe adapters, etc., thank you!

 

[invertedisdead]

quartz, the kind of glass tiny might stems are made of, is expensive as a raw material and more difficult to work with than normal Pyrex.

Regular boro would probably be fine, no? Quartz is more resistant to thermal shock but that's usually more of an issue with torch vapes.

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

Regular boro would probably be fine, no? Quartz is more resistant to thermal shock but that's usually more of an issue with torch vapes.

Granted I'm not at all familiar with this particular vape but I think I remember hearing the manufacturer used quartz. I would conjecture it's because it's right next to an aggressive heating element? I mean Pyrex is technically safe up to 950-970°F but because of science repeated reheats cause it internal stress which can lead to cracking. I'd rather not have that happen in anyone's vape because I used Pyrex when I should have used quartz.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Granted I'm not at all familiar with this particular vape but I think I remember hearing the manufacturer used quartz. I would conjecture it's because it's right next to an aggressive heating element? I mean Pyrex is technically safe up to 950-970°F but because of science repeated reheats cause it internal stress which can lead to cracking. I'd rather not have that happen in anyone's vape because I used Pyrex when I should have used quartz.

Oh! No worries at all, it is quartz just to be quartz, but there is zero issue using pyrex for the stem instead. Heater isn't that aggressive!

I use my Milaana stem backwards in my TinyMight most of the time, at all temps back to back hits, and that is only borosilicate.

I would LOVE some 16mm bent glass stems for the tinymight, perhaps with integrated glass honeycomb screen for a medium sized bowl (maybe even one for smaller loads as well...)

 

[invertedisdead]

Granted I'm not at all familiar with this particular vape but I think I remember hearing the manufacturer used quartz. I would conjecture it's because it's right next to an aggressive heating element? I mean Pyrex is technically safe up to 950-970°F but because of science repeated reheats cause it internal stress which can lead to cracking. I'd rather not have that happen in anyone's vape because I used Pyrex when I should have used quartz.

I learned recently that borosilicate is actually stronger than quartz, plus keep in mind boro/Pyrex was/is still used with Bunsen burners so even direct flame contact is okay within reasonable limits.

It's okay if you don't want to mess with it though, I'm building an all glass vape myself so I've been dealing with this a lot lately about using quartz vs boro.

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

I learned recently that borosilicate is actually stronger than quartz, plus keep in mind boro/Pyrex was/is still used with Bunsen burners so even direct flame contact is okay within reasonable limits.

It's okay if you don't want to mess with it though, I'm building an all glass vape myself so I've been dealing with this a lot lately about using quartz vs boro.

Mechanically quartz isn't as strong as boro but that's only because boro is more flexible, and your right under a Bunsen boro can take successive reheats without any visible problem. Also keep in mind that in those laboratory settings they aren't usually heating the boro by itself and it's usually a vessel with a round (hemispherical) bottom. actually this reminds me of a story... my mentor used to do a demonstration where he'd take two new boro round bottom lab flasks and show that you could bang them together with a pretty reasonable amount of force and not break them. Then he'd pour some water in the flasks and some broken glass and swish it around a couple times, pour it out, and repeat the demo. When he'd bang the two flasks together again they'd immediately shatter because he had put tiny scratches in the wall of the glass.

Anyway, so tldr this is why I NEVER scrape my pieces

Speaking of pieces, these are the Dynavap stems I'm testing out currently, they're a little rough around the edges - still workin' out the kinks

 

[Vlad the Inhaler]

Aw snap! I forgot I had this thread going!

Customs are down for the moment but I always like hearing from my peeps so I'm going to try to use this thread to periodically post past customs (i.e. just glassporn) just to give you all an idea of what I've been up to. I am much more active on Instagram, so feel free to DM me @508Phineas

Here are some Prototype UD glass pieces I made earlier this year, the one on the left is for the Standard core and the four on the right are all Alpha core. While these are NFS they could be parts of future projects.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

I do stems for the TM from Simax tubing ,no issue. Quartz tubing has tighter tolerance than boro,i bet this is why he choose it . Of course proper annealing is in order,otherwise it can burst from build strees during cutting,flame polishing doest do shit for durability.
@Vlad the Inhaler I am a total newbie,but cant u fuse quartz with heady glass ? ALso there is colored quartz tubing from china, i have a banger caps made from something with higher melting point than regular boro, although it might no necessary be quartz.