Venty by Storz & Bickel

[Shiva78]

Ricorda, ci sono state molte segnalazioni di WPA in plastica dura (la connessione in vetro da 14 mm andava bene) che rompevano l'attacco a baionetta S&B e di WPA completamente in gomma/silicone, che erano un po' ; sciatti e si staccavano durante la rimozione dall'attrezzatura per l'acqua. Possiedo entrambi i tipi e sono stato molto attento a NON stringere eccessivamente il WPA in plastica/vetro, poiché mi piace la connessione GONG da 14 mm. Non ho usato molto quello tutto in gomma.

Non sono sicuro di uno in METALLO, a parte il costo. Non vedo l'ora di vedere cosa inventerai.

Ciao anche io vorrei comprare un WPA per il Venty questo... Che è per i mighty andrà bene? Secondo voi?

Adaptateur en silicone 10, 14 et 18 mm mâle pour Mighty / Crafty+

Cet adaptateur en silicone permet de connecter votre vaporisateur Mighty / Crafty+ à un joint 10, 14 ou 18 mm femelle. Parfait pour le connecter à un bang

lacentralevapeur.com

Grazie per la risposta

 

[cptofnthng]

There is No WPA yet afaik

 

[Shiva78]

Grazie per il saluto! È stato un bellissimo autunno/inverno qui sulla Space Coast, molto meglio della calda estate che abbiamo avuto!



Idea interessante! Probabilmente preferirei la parte stampata su qualcosa di resistente al calore come l'acciaio inossidabile, ma certamente possibile dato che ho un Mighty and the Venty in prestito per i test



Che apprezzo molto! In effetti le cose sono state piuttosto frenetiche ultimamente. Tuttavia le cose finalmente hanno iniziato a calmarsi e ho effettivamente fatto *MOLTI* progressi con il Venty (non ho ancora fatto alcun beta-test a causa di una pausa a lungo necessaria dallo svapo per dare il mio polmoni a riposo )

Tuttavia ho già finalizzato un imbuto di caricamento, confermato che il mio WPA quasi universale di medie dimensioni funziona sul bocchino E ho progettato un prototipo di WPA da 14/18 mm che intendo stampare in 3D in acciaio inossidabile (chiunque sia interessato a ordinare un prototipo per aiutarmi con i test? Compila il modulo di contatto sul mio sito web o mandami un messaggio privato).

Ho già iniziato a progettare un supporto per la base di ricarica per il vaporizzatore, ma non ho ancora definito l'adattamento prima di poter apportare gli ultimi ritocchi come la gestione del cablaggio dei cavi e simili, ma questo accadere velocemente.

Dovrei avere una nuova categoria Venty in vetrina insieme all'imbuto flessibile elencato entro la prossima settimana o due, e spero di avere alcune foto di un prototipo di dock di ricarica prima della fine dell'anno, se possibile, poiché si tratta di un progetto ad alta priorità per Me.



Come con qualsiasi vaporizzatore che utilizza capsule dosatrici, puoi "microdose"; utilizzando una capsula dosatrice VUOTA come distanziatore: metti un pezzettino di erba nel forno e poi metti un distanziatore vuoto per riempire il vuoto per un'estrazione/prestazione

 

[DadaBoo]

Yes its so beautiful and stylish. Only matched of course by the zeus arc GT, the best vaporizer ever produced.

I know you're joking, but the first vapouriser I ever got was the Zeus Arc GT.... let's just say I continued combustion for a while after.

It was a bag of shite IMO.

OK, back to Venty talk... sorry I had to get that off my chest.

 

[philiegram]

It's your assuption that the bricked Ventys have a faulty oven: no one other than people at S&B really know what was actually faulty.
I read this thread from the beginning: nobody ever wrote that the oven was the faulty part here. A member who has a friend working at SB said that the faulty part was something that gets outsourced from SB, but that (if true) is all we know.
In this situation I wouldn't play with battery-swapping to be honest (or swapping-anything fwiw).

Thanks for checking the whole thread, so maybe i was dreaming about the faulty oven…. Still i am sure it is not the batteries so i will maybe try swapping them if it is „easy enough“ for me. If i do so i will report here. Till now i was only swapoing the bottom front case, only Electronics or rather electromechanics here was the vibration motor. Everything works fine so far…. Pictures will follow soon!

 

[JoeMama]

LMAO I should have just left it at that it feels better to hold than the Mighty.

 

[philiegram]

Here are some Pics of my bricked and disassembled Venty.
Will continue to detach the battery pack and disassemble the heating unit.
Battery pack connected to board via 3 solid screws, you can see the screws or rather their terminals on the board top left, top right and bottom right.
In general the build quality seems very solid!

https://imgur.com/gaSc34g

https://imgur.com/LtjnmUj

https://imgur.com/yZxixQh

https://imgur.com/6bIrhBv

https://imgur.com/bbFm41g

 

[martinstraka8282]

Here are some Pics of my bricked and disassembled Venty.
Will continue to detach the battery pack and disassemble the heating unit.
Battery pack connected to board via 3 solid screws, you can see the screws or rather their terminals on the board top left, top right and bottom right.
In general the build quality seems very solid!

https://imgur.com/gaSc34g

https://imgur.com/LtjnmUj

https://imgur.com/yZxixQh

https://imgur.com/6bIrhBv

https://imgur.com/bbFm41g

Are those batteries swappable or are they locked in there somehow?

 

[philiegram]

Yeah, I read that the batteries are wired in "2s1p", a way to allow fast charging.
However, geeenerally that could be replicated in a mod which allows replacing 18650s, if the wiring of their modded case is done correctly, couldn't it?
But yeah, would require some effort.
The frame itself is connected to the board with those typical [missing correct term] "board-pin plugs", right?
Anyway, looking forward to more inside pics

2s1p could be 2serial 1parallel ? What catches my attention was that one cathode and one anode are connected to each other and then to the board, whereas the other cathode and anode are connected individually to the board. the board and the oven are connected only via ribbon cable.

Are those batteries swappable or are they locked in there somehow?

They seem to be soldered to the metal board-connection pieces

 

[martinstraka8282]

They seem to be soldered to the metal board-connection pieces

Ya, figured. Too bad, so close to being easily replaceable.

 

[peeeaace]

Hi, I have had the venty for two weeks.. what do you think about maintaining the temperature? I often start at 180 degrees celsius, then after a short time, often when I click on the boost for 190 degrees, the indicator of temperature is instantly green, 7 times out of 10, and other times it takes 2 seconds, the light is red, it indicates that it is rising in temperature, then is green, this seems more normal to me, but this case happens only 3 times out of 10. Why is the light instantly green when I click on boost? This makes me doubt the heating system in general.

A fault for me is not knowing the real temperature, but only the chosen temperature. On the mighty it's better I have the impression

 

[SolidAirrr]

Battery pack connected to board via 3 solid screws, you can see the screws or rather their terminals on the board top left, top right and bottom right.

Thanks for the pics.
So, can you see a solder tail on those batteries?
Somehow I feel a battery mod shouldn't be too difficult, maybe I'm off.

 

[KeroZen]

Any markings readable on the pink cell wraps? They sure look the same color as the 30Q but it could be something more recent.

Thanks for the pics btw!

 

[IrrationalRetard]

Took a hot bath while vaping the Venty today, halfway through the sesh the device locked up, screen went orange, then red. I could still hit the device, connect with bluetooth, but couldn't change the temperature or turn off the device.

Resetting the device by holding the power button for 10 seconds made screen white, then it turned off a few seconds later.

Guessing it was the room humidity, not doing this again lol. Has anybody else here observed this behaviour? Should I be concerned and contact S&B?

 

[philiegram]

Thanks for the pics.
So, can you see a solder tail on those batteries?
Somehow I feel a battery mod shouldn't be too difficult, maybe I'm off.

Here are the next pics. If you need another angle or you need me to further disassemble just tell me. Battery-Swap-Mod can be achieved easily:
1. cut an opening in the back panel to access the batteries.
2. Un-Solder the batteries and maybe bend one half of the connectors down a little bit for a steady connection to the swappable regular 18650s (Samsung INR18650 30Q, 3000mAh, 15A) You should probably remember which battery was left and which was right, and also only swap them in pairs....
3.Finish! The gray tray holds the batteries pretty firmly, and you can pop them out easily. Originals are glued in place with a small piece of double sided duck tape, just take that out when you break the original 18650s out.
(4. Optional: 3d-Print a nice cover for the hole from step 1)

Maybe will just physically try this with my bricked one sometime (not very soon probably). Would be interesting to see what happens with the settings that one made via bluetooth when disconnecting the batteries…
As the batteries are 8 bucks/piece I will not swap them to my working venty, now I know that I could swap batteries by myself if I am out of warranty and my batteries die which is very nice! Again: Build quality and "repairability" are great, you could probably do some things yourself if you are out of warranty....

Have a good day everyone!

https://imgur.com/G29APOc

https://imgur.com/2H0rYvE

https://imgur.com/5AvySf8

https://imgur.com/HUnSyjg

https://imgur.com/dzxNzUM

 

[imor jones]

Nice pics. Thanks.
I dont get where you had to cut the hole to exzess the batteries in Step 1
Plus what i dont get is. Rustyoldnail was recently posting the datas from his battery measurements. And the cspacity was almost 2800mah in the non ecomode. But each q30 battery has 3000mah.
So why is the total capacity less than 2800mah?
What am i missing?
Thanks....

 

[SolidAirrr]

I dont get where you had to cut the hole to exzess the batteries in Step 1

I think, this is only addressing a possible permanent option to swap batteries.

Seeing this construction, I wonder why they bothered soldering the batteries. It's there any other reason than making it less likely for them to lose contact? ... Which doesn't seem too likely anyway, seeing that tight fit.

Just annoying they didn't make them swappable by default. The "medical argument" would only apply in the way that there will be a 'medic'version and it was too costly to have two versions. Apart from that I'd assume they'd rather loose buyers... But probably their research suggests otherwise.

 

[Sandrider1962]

Here are the next pics. If you need another angle or you need me to further disassemble just tell me. Battery-Swap-Mod can be achieved easily:
1. cut an opening in the back panel to access the batteries.
2. Un-Solder the batteries and maybe bend one half of the connectors down a little bit for a steady connection to the swappable regular 18650s (Samsung INR18650 30Q, 3000mAh, 15A) You should probably remember which battery was left and which was right, and also only swap them in pairs....
3.Finish! The gray tray holds the batteries pretty firmly, and you can pop them out easily. Originals are glued in place with a small piece of double sided duck tape, just take that out when you break the original 18650s out.
(4. Optional: 3d-Print a nice cover for the hole from step 1)

Maybe will just physically try this with my bricked one sometime (not very soon probably). Would be interesting to see what happens with the settings that one made via bluetooth when disconnecting the batteries...
As the batteries are 8 bucks/piece I will not swap them to my working venty, now I know that I could swap batteries by myself if I am out of warranty and my batteries die which is very nice! Again: Build quality and "repairability" are great, you could probably do some things yourself if you are out of warranty....

Have a good day everyone!

[AVERAGE=imgur] G29APOc[/MEDIA]

https://imgur.com/2H0rYvE

https://imgur.com/5AvySf8

[AVERAGE=imgur] HUnSyjg[/MEDIA]

https://imgur.com/dzxNzUM

I think my simple mind went tilt.... The warning on the batteries ? "Fire Hazard ! Not for Vape ! Never install, carry or handle !"
Huh ?

 

[JoeMama]

@Sandrider1962 Of all the pics that @philiegram posted, it's that warning label on the battery that got me too.

A quick search gave me this:

INR-18650 batteries are not recommended for vaping due to safety concerns and their intended use for high-drain applications such as electric vehicles and power tools. Major manufacturers like Samsung have explicitly stated that their 18650 batteries are "not intended" for use in e-cigarettes or vaping devices, and using them for this purpose can lead to the risk of fire or explosion. Additionally, the Consumer Product Safety Commission has issued warnings against using loose 18650 batteries, emphasizing the importance of following basic battery safety guidelines and avoiding the use of these batteries in unregulated mechanical mods. Therefore, it is advisable to use batteries specifically designed and labeled for vaping to ensure safety and proper performance.

While I might consider this a bit of a "shock", we all have portable vapes that use these batteries. But, WTF indeed....

 

[Adgej123]

I’ve seen a few comments-complaints about the airflow, comparing to a Mighty.
I own both. Never liked the restriction of my Mighty, but some do.
Since the airflow dial on the Venty can be set from fully open, to completely closed, I find it odd that those that like a restricted draw, can’t duplicate the Mighty’s?
There are no indents on the dial, the airflow is one smooth band, and minor adjustments do a lot.

I can easily match my Mighty restriction if I cared to. I like to change the airflow during my session, starting tight, and as the load gets warm and expands, as I increase the temperature, I slowly open up the dial.
The adjustable airflow and 130w heater that’s hard to overwhelm, are the two main features I enjoy.
In a previous post, I listed my battery mAh tests…..

and in my opinion, holding the Venty is much more comfortable and satisfying then the odd shaped Mighty.

I don't know how to explain it best, the vapour itself just feels less dense than vapour from my Mighty+. My best comparison is the Plenty desktop vape, the vapour just feels airy, compared to a Volcano bag for instance, regardless of the Venty dial airflow setting. May be in part due to the depth of the new cooling unit. It could all be an illusion, but the vapour just doesn't feel as thick as with my Mighty+. Don't get me wrong, it's still doing the job very well, just can't get it to feel the same whatever the setting on the dial. I did finish off a bowl last night, wide open, and it was much easier on my throat compared to the end of my Mighty sessions. It could also be due to the age of my Mighty cooling unit, it's due a clean/replacement so naturally produces a tighter draw, I'd imagine a brand new cooling unit would resemble the Venty a lot closer between the first and second dial.

I cannot for the life of me, get the finished bud to a shade as dark as the Mighty gives, though this may be airflow illusions rather than less production. Similar to my Volcano, even at 400F+ the bud comes a lighter shade of brown. The Mighty seems to provide more conduction heating than the Venty, but I can't be sure.

Ergonomically, I agree entirely, it's a much nicer unit to hold than the Mighty, a very good shape and natural to sip. It's smaller than I anticipated prior to receiving too. Overall, I may have been a bit harsh in my early thoughts, so I will keep at it and see how we get on. Plenty of time for Christmas sessions soon =)

 

[Stonedbadger]

About how long ago did you send your payment, out of curiosity? I'm batch 8

Here are the next pics. If you need another angle or you need me to further disassemble just tell me. Battery-Swap-Mod can be achieved easily:
1. cut an opening in the back panel to access the batteries.
2. Un-Solder the batteries and maybe bend one half of the connectors down a little bit for a steady connection to the swappable regular 18650s (Samsung INR18650 30Q, 3000mAh, 15A) You should probably remember which battery was left and which was right, and also only swap them in pairs....
3.Finish! The gray tray holds the batteries pretty firmly, and you can pop them out easily. Originals are glued in place with a small piece of double sided duck tape, just take that out when you break the original 18650s out.
(4. Optional: 3d-Print a nice cover for the hole from step 1)

Maybe will just physically try this with my bricked one sometime (not very soon probably). Would be interesting to see what happens with the settings that one made via bluetooth when disconnecting the batteries…
As the batteries are 8 bucks/piece I will not swap them to my working venty, now I know that I could swap batteries by myself if I am out of warranty and my batteries die which is very nice! Again: Build quality and "repairability" are great, you could probably do some things yourself if you are out of warranty....

Have a good day everyone!

https://imgur.com/G29APOc

https://imgur.com/2H0rYvE

https://imgur.com/5AvySf8

https://imgur.com/HUnSyjg

https://imgur.com/dzxNzUM

Thankyou for your work!!!

 

[Dr. G]

Here are the next pics. If you need another angle or you need me to further disassemble just tell me. Battery-Swap-Mod can be achieved easily:
1. cut an opening in the back panel to access the batteries.
2. Un-Solder the batteries and maybe bend one half of the connectors down a little bit for a steady connection to the swappable regular 18650s (Samsung INR18650 30Q, 3000mAh, 15A) You should probably remember which battery was left and which was right, and also only swap them in pairs....
3.Finish! The gray tray holds the batteries pretty firmly, and you can pop them out easily. Originals are glued in place with a small piece of double sided duck tape, just take that out when you break the original 18650s out.
(4. Optional: 3d-Print a nice cover for the hole from step 1)

Maybe will just physically try this with my bricked one sometime (not very soon probably). Would be interesting to see what happens with the settings that one made via bluetooth when disconnecting the batteries…
As the batteries are 8 bucks/piece I will not swap them to my working venty, now I know that I could swap batteries by myself if I am out of warranty and my batteries die which is very nice! Again: Build quality and "repairability" are great, you could probably do some things yourself if you are out of warranty....

Have a good day everyone!

https://imgur.com/G29APOc

https://imgur.com/2H0rYvE

https://imgur.com/5AvySf8

https://imgur.com/HUnSyjg

https://imgur.com/dzxNzUM

Greetings, this is truly amazing work here. Wow, I am impressed and thanking you very much.

 

[philiegram]

I dont get where you had to cut the hole to exzess the batteries in Step 1

I think, this is only addressing a possible permanent option to swap batteries.

SolidAirr is right! one more idea for accessing the batteries easily: You could probably modify the back half of the casing(cut some of the rim that connects to the front half of the casing) so you could easily screw just the back half on and off to access the batteries. Or just leave the back half open . Maybe these pics help with imagination:

https://imgur.com/Gc23Fdh

https://imgur.com/AZvvaH6

Anyways, I will not modify the casing. I rather wanted to explore if I could change the batteries if mine would get old. And I will keep the back of the casing so if I will destroy it on my woking unit I can change it.
I do also think a battery change mod does not make too much sense for me: The Venty lasts for around 8-10 sessions, I would rather hook it up to a power bank in-between sessions than fiddling around with the 18650s, also needing to remember left and right and the right combination....
I will anyways check if I can modify the battery tray so one could swap the batteries, even though I will not modify the back for easily accessing the batteries. Will post some pictures then.

Plus what i dont get is. Rustyoldnail was recently posting the datas from his battery measurements. And the cspacity was almost 2800mah in the non ecomode. But each q30 battery has 3000mah.
So why is the total capacity less than 2800mah?
What am i missing?
Thanks....

I think this could be the case for any battery! they rather give you their intended capacity, also measuring and extrapolating the capacities of batteries isn't too accurate. As the batteries are connected via a"series connection"(+ of batt1 connected to - of batt 2) the capacity of the batteries does not add up. but the voltages of the batteries will add up, leading to less current being drawn if power stays constant...

One more thing regarding the batteries: Batteries connected serially. Third battery connection is used for Battery Management (Over charging protection, Short circuit protection, Over discharching protection, Over current protection, found that via @SolidAirrr's 2s1p hint....)

Seeing this construction, I wonder why they bothered soldering the batteries. It's there any other reason than making it less likely for them to lose contact? ... Which doesn't seem too likely anyway, seeing that tight fit.

Unfortunately my cheap soldering iron wasn't able to beak the connection, either not hot enough, or rather the "connection metal plate" could be welded to the battery.... I ended up cutting and prying it off the batteries.... worked somehow..... I think it is just connected this way to make it bombproof.

Just annoying they didn't make them swappable by default. The "medical argument" would only apply in the way that there will be a 'medic'version and it was too costly to have two versions. Apart from that I'd assume they'd rather loose buyers... But probably their research suggests otherwise.

Instead of carrying two 18650s and need to remember their position just take a power bank.... that is easy, it doesn't void the warranty, you can choose the capacity you want to carry and the venty charges pretty rapidly. I also think that making the combination of two 18650s exchangeable by users bears the risk of the device not working as intended b/c of an unthoughtful combination of a not matched pair of batteries. I only know one device (boundless tera) that has this, and it is always mentioned and a known problem that the pair of batteries needs to be matched.

I think my simple mind went tilt.... The warning on the batteries ? "Fire Hazard ! Not for Vape ! Never install, carry or handle !"
Huh ?

While I might consider this a bit of a "shock", we all have portable vapes that use these batteries. But, WTF indeed....

This is with most 18650s and also with the original ones that came with my arizer air. Problem is that 18650 are completely unmanaged cells and not standardized in their detailed tech specs, relying on people to match tech specs of batteries and devices. With some e-cigarettes exploding in peoples faces most of the manufacturer's just write it on the batteries to not being held responsible. No need to worry about this print b/c S&B will have chosen the batteries carefully. The print was not intended for our eyes

 

[RustyOldNail]

Nice pics. Thanks.
I dont get where you had to cut the hole to exzess the batteries in Step 1
Plus what i dont get is. Rustyoldnail was recently posting the datas from his battery measurements. And the cspacity was almost 2800mah in the non ecomode. But each q30 battery has 3000mah.
So why is the total capacity less than 2800mah?
What am i missing?
Thanks....

Battery manufacturers test their batteries to get the best specifications they can publish.

Batteries are slowly discharged from full charge, to a 2.5 volt CUTOFF, as milliamperes are measured.
When batteries are used in a device, they are controlled by the BMS (battery management system), the voltage cutoff has been programmed into the BMS, usually something like 3.0-3.2 volts per cell.
This higher voltage cutoff is for SAFETY, so the difference in these two cutoffs, is why real world tests of battery capacity = mAh, as I posted will always be lower, then the published capacity.

The teardown and pictures were great, thanks!

Personally, if and when the built in batteries performance decreases significantly, I’ll use the S&B battery replacement plan….. but most likely by then, I’ll be using a newer vape device.

 

[philiegram]

Battery manufacturers test their batteries to get the best specifications they can publish.

Batteries are slowly discharged from full charge, to a 2.5 volt CUTOFF, as milliamperes are measured.
When batteries are used in a device, they are controlled by the BMS (battery management system), the voltage cutoff has been programmed into the BMS, usually something like 3.0-3.2 volts per cell.
This higher voltage cutoff is for SAFETY, so the difference in these two cutoffs, is why real world tests of battery capacity = mAh, as I posted will always be lower, then the published capacity.

The teardown and pictures were great, thanks!

Personally, if and when the built in batteries performance decreases significantly, I’ll use the S&B battery replacement plan….. but most likely by then, I’ll be using a newer vape device.

Thanks for sharing these details! It just started with my venty falling on the ground and breaking a corner, swapping the broken part of the case was my original intention. All other things just came 1by1 as disassembling was easy. As I said a battery replacement mod is IMHO not too useful.... will also most likely go for a S&B battery replacement plan if it extends the warranty. What is this plan? never heard of it.