Vapman

ChippyMalone

Be here now.
Accessory Maker
@vapmanjoe congrats on receiving the first one out in the wild! Awesome! Love your story of chasing down the postman to pay the customs duty.

I wonder how long it will take for mine to make it all the way across the pond and then across the continent to Western Washington? I'm not holding my breath until Monday a least. But a pleasant surprise tomorrow might be nice.

@natural farmer @terarc @M0J0 I straightened my springs the other day after a pocket mishap, but I noticed that my method might be a bit simpler than what I think has been described.

You only have to remove one screw per side, not both. You can then rotate the spring clip thingy outward, bend it to your satisfaction, and then rotate it back. Less stress on the wood that way by never unscrewing the outward screw. I didn't even have to loosen the outer screw to rotate it and gave it a slight tightening upon reassembly.
 

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
[USER=4587]@natural farmer @terarc @M0J0 I straightened my springs the other day after a pocket mishap, but I noticed that my method might be a bit simpler than what I think has been described.

You only have to remove one screw per side, not both. You can then rotate the spring clip thingy outward, bend it to your satisfaction, and then rotate it back. Less stress on the wood that way by never unscrewing the outward screw. I didn't even have to loosen the outer screw to rotate it and gave it a slight tightening upon reassembly.[/USER]

Nice method you have there mate! Sounds faster and simpler indeed! The way I like it! :nod: Thanks for your brain power! :tup:
 

M0J0

I am a leaf on the wind ~ watch how I soar...
Love at first sight! It works perfectly, i began at 3-4 at first trie and got a smoothe and tasty draw with less visible clouds, second trie I tried it with 4 and got a thick cloud after some heating periods which highly surprised me :freak: and it's so tiny...welcome to the vapman family

lu8sDXI.jpg



WbVlTi1.jpg

@terarc, @ChippyMalone's technique is much simpler, just check that the spring doesnt dig into the wood on the edge where you're potting the torque.

And you guys may want to study how you're opening and closing the vapman to see why it's bending in the first place. I don't know why that would happen...

@vapmanjoe, the Station looks beautiful!

Can you share some info as to heating times? How it compares to the lighter heating cycles?

Is it easy to use? Etc.

Any tips and tricks you have discovered?

Thanks!
 

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
@terarc, @ChippyMalone's technique is much simpler, just check that the spring doesnt dig into the wood on the edge where you're potting the torque.

And you guys may want to study how you're opening and closing the vapman to see why it's bending in the first place. I don't know why that would happen...

@vapmanjoe, the Station looks beautiful!

Can you share some info as to heating times? How it compares to the lighter heating cycles?

Is it easy to use? Etc.

Any tips and tricks you have discovered?

Thanks!
The bending is very slight M0J0, you have to see it from very close to notice but you can feel the middle section wiggling a bit and fresh air coming from the sides during a draw...
 

M0J0

I am a leaf on the wind ~ watch how I soar...
Size "0" Phillips. OO might work, but it's a poor fit and could easily skip out.

OF
I use a 00 Phillips Head. It also says "S2" on the tip: S2 PH 00

@natural farmer, I checked my old, original vapman and the springs have a very tiny upwards bend, really hard to notice. I can only see it from the side, but in my case, the middle piece is still tight.

I just tried @ChippyMalone's technique and it works perfectly. I used my fingers to apply the pressure at the bend instead of the edge of the body/wood as I thought I would have to.

As he said, you don't have to loosen the screw at the end of the spring.

Thanks the tip Chip! -- That one needs to go to the "Best of vapman Thread."

BTW, anyone going to make a vapman box this weekend? I'm going to hit the local craft store to see if they sell waxed paper, because waxing is quite the production effort.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I use a 00 Phillips Head. It also says "S2" on the tip: S2 PH 00

I don't doubt that's what you're using, but that doesn't make it right. Have you tried 'ought'? I just did (again), and after trying both the fit is definitely much better. With a couple examples of each, in fact, to be sure. With 00 you get some 'play' which is very dangerous with Phillips. A mismatch gives you sloped surfaces that under torque will make the tool tend to 'cam out'. To prevent it, you need to bear down harder, not a good thing if you're trying to reuse threads in wood. Unless your screwdriver is very cheap (read 'soft steel') you can expect it to damage the slot 'skipping out'. Which can prevent the right tool from fitting.

Unlike some of the other 'cross point' designs, Phillips has sizes that mean more than shaft diameter or tip size. The tip profile is different on each size. It's a complex socket, the proper tool 'locks into' the screw head solidly such that you can easily balance the screw on the driver for insertion.

I think if you carefully try both, you'll agree the 0 is a better fit. IMO if you're going to go buy one, that's the size you want to buy.

OF
 

M0J0

I am a leaf on the wind ~ watch how I soar...
I don't doubt that's what you're using, but that doesn't make it right. Have you tried 'ought'? I just did (again), and after trying both the fit is definitely much better. With a couple examples of each, in fact, to be sure. With 00 you get some 'play' which is very dangerous with Phillips. A mismatch gives you sloped surfaces that under torque will make the tool tend to 'cam out'. To prevent it, you need to bear down harder, not a good thing if you're trying to reuse threads in wood. Unless your screwdriver is very cheap (read 'soft steel') you can expect it to damage the slot 'skipping out'. Which can prevent the right tool from fitting.

Unlike some of the other 'cross point' designs, Phillips has sizes that mean more than shaft diameter or tip size. The tip profile is different on each size. It's a complex socket, the proper tool 'locks into' the screw head solidly such that you can easily balance the screw on the driver for insertion.

I think if you carefully try both, you'll agree the 0 is a better fit. IMO if you're going to go buy one, that's the size you want to buy.

OF
I hear you. I had tried both, and for some reason my 00 felt like a better fit. I must have cheap screwdrivers because my 0 felt like it didn't go in far enough and my 00 had only a tiny bit of play.

I'll have to check out a nicer 0 screwdriver and see how it goes.

But I believe you. It looks like it should be a 0.
 

friedrich

Little-Known Member
Love at first sight! It works perfectly, i began at 3-4 at first trie and got a smoothe and tasty draw with less visible clouds, second trie I tried it with 4 and got a thick cloud after some heating periods which highly surprised me :freak: and it's so tiny...welcome to the vapman family

lu8sDXI.jpg



WbVlTi1.jpg
Well... now I can't leave the house today until the mail comes!

I really like that finish on your Vapman by the way.
 

vapmanjoe

Well-Known Member
I think i better post a Video because pictures say more than thousand words. Keep in mind that this is the secon bowl, the station is still warm and heats up faster than at the beginning. The instructual manual states that the station works basically with the same temperature. The different temperature settings only have an influence on the length of the cycling process. When the station is cold, first you see a red light, after 30-45 sec the lighter turns orange and you can put the vapman onto the station, then it starts to blink. After 10-15 sec the light turns green and you can start drawing. If you put the vapman onto the station again it blinks orange, again ready to use and so on.
It starts with 2-3 tasty, almost invisible draws till you get some thicker hits. From the second bowl on you could use it with at least two vapmans in rotation as you see the heating cycle is pretty fast.
I tried it with herb, hash and wax. I feel it gives you the same tase and quality of vapor like with the lighter. Really nice! I'm perfectly satisfied.

I'm looking forward to see you people get your stations soon to share some nice experience...


 
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M0J0

I am a leaf on the wind ~ watch how I soar...
I think i better post a Video because pictures say more than thousand words. Keep in mind that this is the secon bowl, the station is still warm and heats up faster than at the beginning. The instructual manual states that the station works basically with the same temperature. The different temperature settings only have an influence on the length of the cycling process. When the station is cold, first you see a red light, after 30-45 sec the lighter turns orange and you can put the vapman onto the station, then it starts to blink. After 10-15 sec the light turns green and you can start drawing. If you put the vapman onto the station again it blinks orange, again ready to use and so on.
It starts with 2-3 tasty, almost invisible draws till you get some thicker hits. From the second bowl on you could use it with at least two vapmans in rotation as you see the heating cycle is pretty fast.
I tried it with herb, hash and wax. I feel it gives you the same tase and quality of vapor like with the lighter. Really nice! I'm perfectly satisfied.

I'm looking forward to see you people get your stations soon to share some nice experience...

Very cool!

This looks idiot proof... Nice big clouds too!

Thanks for sharing.
 

friedrich

Little-Known Member
I think i better post a Video because pictures say more than thousand words. Keep in mind that this is the secon bowl, the station is still warm and heats up faster than at the beginning. The instructual manual states that the station works basically with the same temperature. The different temperature settings only have an influence on the length of the cycling process. When the station is cold, first you see a red light, after 30-45 sec the lighter turns orange and you can put the vapman onto the station, then it starts to blink. After 10-15 sec the light turns green and you can start drawing. If you put the vapman onto the station again it blinks orange, again ready to use and so on.
It starts with 2-3 tasty, almost invisible draws till you get some thicker hits. From the second bowl on you could use it with at least two vapmans in rotation as you see the heating cycle is pretty fast.
I tried it with herb, hash and wax. I feel it gives you the same tase and quality of vapor like with the lighter. Really nice! I'm perfectly satisfied.

I'm looking forward to see you people get your stations soon to share some nice experience...

...wow! :clap:

So what actually happens when it indicates ready (green)? Can you leave Vapman sitting there for a minute or two... or is it best to only dock it when you're actually ready to take a hit?

Can/should you do multiple consecutive heat cycles (like we do with the lighter at the start of a session)? or just turn up the dial briefly if you want to get going faster?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
OK, folks, a couple of quick thoughts, a photo or two, and a SERIOUS WARNING.

First, the good part. IMO a very nice unit with lots of potential. It will take some fiddling to get to know, but it's already done a bang up job with the oil/screen I had loaded from yesterday. The missing view is:


The funny 3 slotted cup fits onto the bottom of the pan with the tubes in the slots. You need to orient it right to 'drop down' the last 1/8 inch or so. The body then blocks a light beam (IR it seems) that goes from about 8 o'clock to 3 o'clock an inch or so down the bore (emitter and sensor in the wall) to start the cycle.

It flashes (four times?) to get to the magic temperature, then flashes 8 more times (at a rate set by the knob) to complete the cycle. Think of it in terms of the first flashes are the torch being lit, the 8 timing flashes the duration of heating. I'm sure with some experimenting we'll all find a setting to match our favorite heating cycle.....only much more uniformly.

Now, to the bad part, due to a fit issue it's destroying the mica heat shield at the mouth of the hole:
99meCf4.jpg


It 'hangs up' coming off the post (sometimes more than others) and is FLAKING THE MICA AWAY just were I don't want it damaged. On the mouth, between the two tubes at the top. Not good at all. Please be aware of it.

This is no doubt a mismatch between specific VMs and my Heating Station only. The new VM I got with the unit doesn't have this problem, but the one I've been using lately (before the HS) definitely does. Even though I didn't notice it when I took the first photo above, there's a dusting of mica chips on the wood base, you can see some of it I photographed inadvertently even though I blew the dust out for the photo (those bits stuck). There are chips at 6 and 3 o'clock relative to the post. A complete cleaning and 3 test insertions (and removal) made an alarming number of new chips, I have a problem with this match that prevents it's use. Now, if I can only remember who I loaned my basic VM to, that seems like a better match here.....

OF
 

TNT_error

Well-Known Member
I've been daydreaming about the station for weeks haha, even have a routine ready. Can the station be used angled? Such as using the vm in a water tool and using the station like s log vspe?

Also how long is the cord?

Thanks
 

jim-bob

Well-Known Member
I don't want to speak for anyone that actually owns a station, but as I understand it the station preserves the Vapman ritual of 'heat, beat, heat, beat, heat, inhale'. So you'd take it off the station for your water needs if I'm understanding things correctly.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I've been daydreaming about the station for weeks haha, even have a routine ready. Can the station be used angled? Such as using the vm in a water tool and using the station like s log vspe?

Also how long is the cord?

Thanks

I suppose you could, but it'd be awkward for sure. You'd have to lift off the HS (to establish then break the beam) to start the next hit???

Just under 4 feet, 45 inches.

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info OF. Just seeing if it was possible. It does look like a drag to perform that way. Sucks to hear the mica damaging from the station (I got a mica myself too). @vapmanjoe were you using a basic or classic vm in the video?

Yep. If I were trying to do that, I'd start from a different direction I think. Leave the heater and sensor clamped to the VM on a cable with the electronics (and a 'go' button) a few feet down that cable.

I'm sure that home made versions will sprout up (I'll probably mess with the idea as well), hopefully someone will explore that idea? Might even be fun to put an indicator light or two on it?

As to the mica taking a beating, I'm sure it's not an issue all the time. Looking at it, I don't understand why the outside corner (the one doing the damage) has to be there at all. It's not contributing to the heating as that's by contact. I'll probably remove it on mine, either chamfer it off or more likely a curved edge so there's 'nothing to catch'. If I'm careful removing it, and put it in only one of the 3 ways, I can avoid hitting now that there's a divot in the lip. Something to watch for.

BTW, a minor quibble, the "rocker switch" in the manual is really a small unlabeled chrome mini toggle switch next to the power jack. It's also 'backwards' in that it's out for off (making it easier to turn on by mistake), but the indicator light sorts that out if it's plugged in.

Fun unit, lots of potential.

OF
 

M0J0

I am a leaf on the wind ~ watch how I soar...
Thanks for the info OF. Just seeing if it was possible. It does look like a drag to perform that way. Sucks to hear the mica damaging from the station (I got a mica myself too). @vapmanjoe were you using a basic or classic vm in the video?
Vapmanjoe was using a classic, and OF had an issue with an older vapman and not with the one that came with the Station.

We're going to have to check with René on this.

@OF, I don't know if you're brave enough, but I would make the center hole a little bit bigger using a an Exacto knife with a brand new blade, then wipe and blow off the degree from the operation. I think it'll be a a little bit if shaving only.

I've always preferred a charred vs Mica vapman myself though. Seems cleaner, less complicated to me.

I really like how clean the inside looks. OF, can you post a pic of the switch you mentioned?

Thanks.
 
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