Flotsam
Well-Known Member
curious if you have any estimates for power consumption?
so the PWM switching is all handled by the Pico board?
Was there existing code that you could make use of?
Nice job, this is fun to watch.
-
SCAM WARNING! See how this scam works in Classifieds.
Unregulated simple all glass vape
- Thread starter highvaper
- Start date
so the PWM switching is all handled by the Pico board?
Was there existing code that you could make use of?
Nice job, this is fun to watch.
Not just estimates - real time power consumption now - there is a live volt reading and knowing the restance of the element it works it out live - quite cool to watch it adjust power in watts and not the arbitrary level of 0 to 10 for the pwm - there is now a temp/watt graph
Yea all regulation is handled by the rp2040 - the actual power is controlled by a separate mosfet circuit - i wanted to keep this separate as it then allows the board to be used with solid state relays, normal relays and switched stuff.
I used some libraries for some hardware like the display, rotary dial and the simple pid library to do the maths.
Take a look at the repo on github its all available for people to use if they want - i have added some updates recently and will add more soon as i have already added some bits for the new leds.
Flotsam
Well-Known Member
Excellent job! congrats , Maybe i missed it but do you have the github link?
ooh ooh I want next hit!
Last edited:
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
Great job and nice documentation! I really enjoyed reading this.
Any reason you choose rp over an esp32? It might be enough for your project
I had a bit of experience with full blown pi's when i started the project off and someone at work i chatted with was a bit of a pico fan so have kind of just rolled with it - the documentation out there is really good too so that always helps.
I suspect if i started from scratch i would probably go down the esp32 route now but there isnt much difference between them for my needs - the esps are a bit faster but the pico has the pio instances which can be super fast (so far not needed to use them for this though).
Wifi/bluetooth on board would be useful for other things but for a vape the last thing i want to do is tie it to a mobile with bluetooth.
Last edited:
Sure its on the other thread but here you go:
GitHub - highvaper/heater-controller: MicroPython Heater Controller
MicroPython Heater Controller. Contribute to highvaper/heater-controller development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
Was going a bit mad and went for 4 lipos - test 1 was good
So decided to just film the screen on test 2
Gutted already killed one but this happened before with the normal pico and i wasnt sure what went wrong this time im sure the coil just burnt through the ptfe and shorted out the thermocouple so the unit got 16v into the thermocouple and the rest of the board. Its dead - good thing i got a few.
Ok to be fair pushing over 300W may not have been the best idea - if you look closely in the second video you can see a little bit of smoke near the mosfet - i cant locate where that actually came from as the mosfet unit is fine and is working still.
But good to know what to be careful of and what to improve upon so i think maybe to get some kapton/ploymide tape and fold a small piece around exposed the thermocouple parts and slide the ptfe over it so even if the ptfe gets burn through there is still an insulating layer.
So decided to just film the screen on test 2
Gutted already killed one but this happened before with the normal pico and i wasnt sure what went wrong this time im sure the coil just burnt through the ptfe and shorted out the thermocouple so the unit got 16v into the thermocouple and the rest of the board. Its dead - good thing i got a few.
Ok to be fair pushing over 300W may not have been the best idea - if you look closely in the second video you can see a little bit of smoke near the mosfet - i cant locate where that actually came from as the mosfet unit is fine and is working still.
But good to know what to be careful of and what to improve upon so i think maybe to get some kapton/ploymide tape and fold a small piece around exposed the thermocouple parts and slide the ptfe over it so even if the ptfe gets burn through there is still an insulating layer.
Finished off my desktop replacement - well more my general use device while i play about with better housing as its not tied the mains anymore.
The thermocouple cable is on the wrong side side need to rewire that but but otherwise is nice a neat and not a load of wires everywhere. Also only one mosfet as that has been fine for the desktop at about 100W so will see how it goes.
Mains powered
4 Lipos - i do like using it with 3 so going to try with 4 and just limit the power so the element doesnt get hot enough to burn the ptfe.
2 Lipos - for on the go
Been doing a bit of research re protecting the circuit board should the element get too hot again and burn through.
There are TVS Diodes which can basically act like a fuse and shunt any too high voltage straight to ground. Just doing a bit more digging to make sure they will work with the thermocouple. So there should be the extra physical barrier with the polymide tape protection and also electrical one. I should be able to retro fit the TVS diode to the existing boards pretty simply by just connecting one across the thermocouple leads at any point.
The thermocouple cable part needs to be easy to replace as it is one bit which can gt damaged and are pretty cheap/simple to replace - also the heater element i think needs to be serviceable and not bonded/welded to the housing - i did think about maybe some silver braising so connect it together or crimps but the screw physical connectors may be the best option.
Need to just remember to check on how the thermocouple protective ptfe is holding out - so far on the original glass version which has been my daily desktop driver i havent had any issue - its only been connected to the mains supply and limited between 100-120W so dont think has got anywhere near hot enough - the nichrome is still a shiny silver and not discoloured with heat.
Really need to code up profiles as switching between the different voltages/power types makes tuning the pid impossible.
Have discovered the power supply isnt stable - without load its 12.3v and then loaded starts at 12.3v drops to 8.1-8.5v for about 1/3 of the time so no wonder the pid tuning has been hard but it has been able to deal with it pretty well which im pretty chuffed about. Also the barrel connector is getting quite hot compared to the deans or other parts so i think i may snip it off and replace with a deans.
Once i redo the max wattage being a constant rather than the duty cycle percent so adjust the duty cycle on each voltage read so it can always output the max wattage at the current volts may improve it.
Graph of rubbish power supply:
The dotted line is the setpoint - the line which jumps is the watts - the other line at the bottom which rises is the temperature - the power is supposed to be max duty cycle but you can see it jumping about caused by the input volts jumping between about 8 and 12
The thermocouple cable is on the wrong side side need to rewire that but but otherwise is nice a neat and not a load of wires everywhere. Also only one mosfet as that has been fine for the desktop at about 100W so will see how it goes.
Mains powered
4 Lipos - i do like using it with 3 so going to try with 4 and just limit the power so the element doesnt get hot enough to burn the ptfe.
2 Lipos - for on the go
Been doing a bit of research re protecting the circuit board should the element get too hot again and burn through.
There are TVS Diodes which can basically act like a fuse and shunt any too high voltage straight to ground. Just doing a bit more digging to make sure they will work with the thermocouple. So there should be the extra physical barrier with the polymide tape protection and also electrical one. I should be able to retro fit the TVS diode to the existing boards pretty simply by just connecting one across the thermocouple leads at any point.
The thermocouple cable part needs to be easy to replace as it is one bit which can gt damaged and are pretty cheap/simple to replace - also the heater element i think needs to be serviceable and not bonded/welded to the housing - i did think about maybe some silver braising so connect it together or crimps but the screw physical connectors may be the best option.
Need to just remember to check on how the thermocouple protective ptfe is holding out - so far on the original glass version which has been my daily desktop driver i havent had any issue - its only been connected to the mains supply and limited between 100-120W so dont think has got anywhere near hot enough - the nichrome is still a shiny silver and not discoloured with heat.
Really need to code up profiles as switching between the different voltages/power types makes tuning the pid impossible.
Have discovered the power supply isnt stable - without load its 12.3v and then loaded starts at 12.3v drops to 8.1-8.5v for about 1/3 of the time so no wonder the pid tuning has been hard but it has been able to deal with it pretty well which im pretty chuffed about. Also the barrel connector is getting quite hot compared to the deans or other parts so i think i may snip it off and replace with a deans.
Once i redo the max wattage being a constant rather than the duty cycle percent so adjust the duty cycle on each voltage read so it can always output the max wattage at the current volts may improve it.
Graph of rubbish power supply:
The dotted line is the setpoint - the line which jumps is the watts - the other line at the bottom which rises is the temperature - the power is supposed to be max duty cycle but you can see it jumping about caused by the input volts jumping between about 8 and 12
Last edited:
Updated to deal with the fluctuating input voltage - i set the max watts to 80 and the max duty cycle gets adjusted accordingly to try and keep at the correct wattage no matter what the input voltage.
Should also compensate for battery sag but if you set the wattage too high for the voltage it will just max out at 100% which is as expected.
Is pretty annoying to find the two devices - the power meter and now the power supply both were not work working as i was expecting and possibly messed my calculations up for the past year.
Should also compensate for battery sag but if you set the wattage too high for the voltage it will just max out at 100% which is as expected.
Is pretty annoying to find the two devices - the power meter and now the power supply both were not work working as i was expecting and possibly messed my calculations up for the past year.
Well im confused - im testing with the 4 lipo battery setup and max watts at 90w - 3 or 4 lipos is pretty sweet for on demand - with 4 the batteries just get a bit warm after a while and lasts for ages between recharges.
With 3 lipos - they do get a bit warm with back to back session not fully tested how many 5 min sessions from cold start you get from a charge nor how many on demand straws either but its way more than the tm2 or mighty+ can do.
One oddity im now thinking maybe the setup of the circuit board somehow - when it sits with the heater off the input voltage is constant but when the heater is on it does fluctuate like it did for the mains power source so am thinking there is some capacitor somewhere which is charging/discharging and affecting the reading somehow - i have checked the battery voltage with an old school analogue volt meter and its pretty stable and doesnt drop 2v suddenly - need to test with my digital one too - just been too busy with testing the vape part of it
I know there are bugs with the adc stuff on the rp2040 so maybe it could be that - need to dig into that and perhaps apply some filtering to the voltage reading as i had to do with the thermocouple and the induction heater. I do have the other version with the pico and an external voltage divider i can test with too so will give that a go and see if i can reproduce the issue there.
edit; Yup is the rp2040 https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=354736
will have to code around it and check reading isnt too far off previous one and retry if it is so the capacitor gets a chance to recharge.
With 3 lipos - they do get a bit warm with back to back session not fully tested how many 5 min sessions from cold start you get from a charge nor how many on demand straws either but its way more than the tm2 or mighty+ can do.
One oddity im now thinking maybe the setup of the circuit board somehow - when it sits with the heater off the input voltage is constant but when the heater is on it does fluctuate like it did for the mains power source so am thinking there is some capacitor somewhere which is charging/discharging and affecting the reading somehow - i have checked the battery voltage with an old school analogue volt meter and its pretty stable and doesnt drop 2v suddenly - need to test with my digital one too - just been too busy with testing the vape part of it
I know there are bugs with the adc stuff on the rp2040 so maybe it could be that - need to dig into that and perhaps apply some filtering to the voltage reading as i had to do with the thermocouple and the induction heater. I do have the other version with the pico and an external voltage divider i can test with too so will give that a go and see if i can reproduce the issue there.
edit; Yup is the rp2040 https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=354736
will have to code around it and check reading isnt too far off previous one and retry if it is so the capacitor gets a chance to recharge.
Last edited:
I think i have mostly fixed that bug with the hardware adc error and have coded around it.
A bit annoyed with myself as i dropped the heater/tube part and the lip hit the lid of a glass jar - the quarts was not as forgiving as the glass and a chip has been taken out of the top - it is still usable but i dont have that many of the outer tubes to break - if it was glass it would have completely broken so at least thats a bonus.
I may need to get some more - i have kind of reached a point with the build im a bit stuck with as currently i dont have access to a decent place to do any proper wood working nor space for a 3d printer so was chatting to one of the people i need to make one for and they said they would be happy with basic components and they would be happy to do something for themselves as they mostly want some desktop thing and dont care about batteries.
A bit annoyed with myself as i dropped the heater/tube part and the lip hit the lid of a glass jar - the quarts was not as forgiving as the glass and a chip has been taken out of the top - it is still usable but i dont have that many of the outer tubes to break - if it was glass it would have completely broken so at least thats a bonus.
I may need to get some more - i have kind of reached a point with the build im a bit stuck with as currently i dont have access to a decent place to do any proper wood working nor space for a 3d printer so was chatting to one of the people i need to make one for and they said they would be happy with basic components and they would be happy to do something for themselves as they mostly want some desktop thing and dont care about batteries.
Last edited:
So i have checked and all ok asking.
Would people be interested in a kit form of this like the vapoven diy kit?
Not sure on costing just yet as i need to know numbers before i can actually work out like getting 10 outer tubes/pcbs or 100 will be a big difference. It would include a variety of straws etc so not just the heater & pcb bits so basically the whole thing but no real housing.
If there is demand and i have time i could do a basic heater tube wood part like i currently have but suspect i wont have the time to do that many of them at the moment but can do a nice how to.
I have various ideas for housing/handles etc so would be good to see them get made if not by me or other peoples ideas too - i rekon you could make a superb looking log vape.
Would people be interested in a kit form of this like the vapoven diy kit?
Not sure on costing just yet as i need to know numbers before i can actually work out like getting 10 outer tubes/pcbs or 100 will be a big difference. It would include a variety of straws etc so not just the heater & pcb bits so basically the whole thing but no real housing.
If there is demand and i have time i could do a basic heater tube wood part like i currently have but suspect i wont have the time to do that many of them at the moment but can do a nice how to.
I have various ideas for housing/handles etc so would be good to see them get made if not by me or other peoples ideas too - i rekon you could make a superb looking log vape.
I got one of those sherlock pipes for hash/oil - they are quite cool - i like to use it for reclaim as well
Anyhows i ran out of butane but had a thought of how to heat up the quartz rod without a torch and use one of the little pwm modules i made - fortunately it has a decent mosfet unit in it so can handle over 200w
Anyhows i ran out of butane but had a thought of how to heat up the quartz rod without a torch and use one of the little pwm modules i made - fortunately it has a decent mosfet unit in it so can handle over 200w
Last edited:
Well im still messing with it - it worked really well with 3 lipos but they got hot fast so stopped that experiment after the first try but the coil got really bright and the rod had a glow to it but even with the butane torch i find maybe 2 hits before a reheat.
The video is from the 120w power supply hitting 150 at one point - i think i may grab a 300w or 400w one of these:
Im constantly pushing my power supply at the top of its output so it gets hot.
I suppose with a little ceramic housing for the coil and a way to quickly turn it on/off to just keep topping up the rods heat it would work just as well as a butane torch. Ever since i put a locked lit one down on the wooden coffee table sideways i have tried to avoid them - you cant sand out a burn you end up with a dip.
The video is from the 120w power supply hitting 150 at one point - i think i may grab a 300w or 400w one of these:
Im constantly pushing my power supply at the top of its output so it gets hot.
I suppose with a little ceramic housing for the coil and a way to quickly turn it on/off to just keep topping up the rods heat it would work just as well as a butane torch. Ever since i put a locked lit one down on the wooden coffee table sideways i have tried to avoid them - you cant sand out a burn you end up with a dip.
I have put together some ideas and figures for a DIY kit
List of what it would include:
RP2040 PCB + firmware installed
Screen
Rotary dial
Mosfet unit
Thermocouple lead with ptfe + kapton tape protection
Heater:
Outer quartz tube + nichrome coil
Inner quartz 1mm thick wall tube
Inner glass 1.5mm thick wall normal test tube
Inner quartz 1.5mm thick wall tube - (not sure if i can get this yet)
Straws:
12mm OD quartz 1mm wall thickness
12mm OD quartz 1.5mm wall thickness
12mm OD glass 1.5mm wall thickness
16mm OD quartz 1.5-2mm wall thickness - (not sure about this yet as well)
SS Mesh for screens
Depending on what people want to make i can add stuff like battery holders, deans connectors, various lengths of wire etc - also i could do pre-soldered kits so with screw in connectors for the thermocouple and other leads so if you want to put the screen or dial else where its easy.
All firmware code is open source so how it works can be fiddled with as much as desired, I am planning on adding a Wattage mode and also profiles so you can jump between different power sources, timers, pid settings etc.
I suspect each kit is going to be around £200 just depends on numbers as the quartz tubes and pcbs will be cheaper depending on volume.
I'm happy putting together a simple version like the design I have been using for the past year or so with the powering cables forming the handle and using a glass jar as a stand for when not in use and with a little junction box to house electronics. I suppose the basic version like that wouldnt be less than £250-300
Post or do send me a pm if interested so i can see if there are enough people who want one
List of what it would include:
RP2040 PCB + firmware installed
Screen
Rotary dial
Mosfet unit
Thermocouple lead with ptfe + kapton tape protection
Heater:
Outer quartz tube + nichrome coil
Inner quartz 1mm thick wall tube
Inner glass 1.5mm thick wall normal test tube
Inner quartz 1.5mm thick wall tube - (not sure if i can get this yet)
Straws:
12mm OD quartz 1mm wall thickness
12mm OD quartz 1.5mm wall thickness
12mm OD glass 1.5mm wall thickness
16mm OD quartz 1.5-2mm wall thickness - (not sure about this yet as well)
SS Mesh for screens
Depending on what people want to make i can add stuff like battery holders, deans connectors, various lengths of wire etc - also i could do pre-soldered kits so with screw in connectors for the thermocouple and other leads so if you want to put the screen or dial else where its easy.
All firmware code is open source so how it works can be fiddled with as much as desired, I am planning on adding a Wattage mode and also profiles so you can jump between different power sources, timers, pid settings etc.
I suspect each kit is going to be around £200 just depends on numbers as the quartz tubes and pcbs will be cheaper depending on volume.
I'm happy putting together a simple version like the design I have been using for the past year or so with the powering cables forming the handle and using a glass jar as a stand for when not in use and with a little junction box to house electronics. I suppose the basic version like that wouldnt be less than £250-300
Post or do send me a pm if interested so i can see if there are enough people who want one
Last edited:
I have found a new way to use it - a tiny might2 long stem - so its open at the bottom
Heat it up to about 200 and let the tm2 stem get a nice heat soak.
The 12mm stems just fit into the tm2 stem with almost no gap - so you get a massive long heater - basically twice the length of the outer tube - the air flows down the outer side of the tm2 stem and over the heater element then enters the bottom of the tm2 stem which is hot on the inside as well - flows up that and finally into the smaller 12mm stem.
You dont put the 12mm stem into it just the first cm or so and its just pure convection - with a j-hook you can see it happen right before your eyes.
The air does flow over the coil and isnt a pure glass/quartz air path but im really liking it more than with the tm2 long 3d stem thing.
Heat it up to about 200 and let the tm2 stem get a nice heat soak.
The 12mm stems just fit into the tm2 stem with almost no gap - so you get a massive long heater - basically twice the length of the outer tube - the air flows down the outer side of the tm2 stem and over the heater element then enters the bottom of the tm2 stem which is hot on the inside as well - flows up that and finally into the smaller 12mm stem.
You dont put the 12mm stem into it just the first cm or so and its just pure convection - with a j-hook you can see it happen right before your eyes.
The air does flow over the coil and isnt a pure glass/quartz air path but im really liking it more than with the tm2 long 3d stem thing.
Been playing with more stems and different arrangements - at the moment enjoying some very free flowing more convention sessions without the inner liner but using the tm2 18mm water adaptor paired with an 18mm j-hook
Some more radical stem ideas on the way soon - hopefully in the next few weeks or less.
Some more radical stem ideas on the way soon - hopefully in the next few weeks or less.
I have been gifted some custom stems all work so well with the thin walled heater - better than the 12mm stems i had been using as the distance between the inner liner and stem is much closer.
They already need a proper clean - all are different and some work better with just a bud but others with a finer grind.
Some chunkier ones - the larger clear glass one works well with a tm2 the tiny bowl somehow brings the flavour out more than a larger chamber. The blue one is nice with a large bud crammed into it and then straight into the heater without the inner liner and bang your f-ed.
I also put in an order for other bits a while ago and that all turned up today - so some more outer heaters, inner heaters with different wall thickness - various other quartz stems of different diameters - 16, 14, 13, 12 and will thicknesses of 2, 1.5, 1 - so plenty of variations to play with
Already made a ruby ball version which on initial test is ok but dont think i heated it up enough
Plus some other custom ideas i had - basically when the stem is quite packed with a finer grind its a bit hard to pull on so had the idea to allow air to enter via holes or slits on the side - plus a couple of different ideas for oil/bho
So far only really tested the slit one and it works well with less restriction on the draw.
They already need a proper clean - all are different and some work better with just a bud but others with a finer grind.
Some chunkier ones - the larger clear glass one works well with a tm2 the tiny bowl somehow brings the flavour out more than a larger chamber. The blue one is nice with a large bud crammed into it and then straight into the heater without the inner liner and bang your f-ed.
I also put in an order for other bits a while ago and that all turned up today - so some more outer heaters, inner heaters with different wall thickness - various other quartz stems of different diameters - 16, 14, 13, 12 and will thicknesses of 2, 1.5, 1 - so plenty of variations to play with
Already made a ruby ball version which on initial test is ok but dont think i heated it up enough
Plus some other custom ideas i had - basically when the stem is quite packed with a finer grind its a bit hard to pull on so had the idea to allow air to enter via holes or slits on the side - plus a couple of different ideas for oil/bho
So far only really tested the slit one and it works well with less restriction on the draw.
I'll try to put up a few pics as a how to later this weekend but essentially the thermocouples come with an outer glass braid covering - inside that are the 2 wires again each one is inside a glass braid. With the outer braid cover they are just to thick to fit between the outer and inner tubes.
I take off the outer liner so you have the 2 thinner leads -this fits between the tubes. But to protect the rp2040 board in case the the thermocouple shorts and touches the heater element it needs to be insulated electrically. If you use the 16mm OD stems without the inner liner you dont want to breath over the braid.
I first used just a very small diameter ptfe tube over the thermocouple and all of the braided covered wire inside the heater - so the ptfe is the only material in the airpath along with the heater element when no inner liner is used. But if something goes wrong or you push it too much you can go past the safe working limit of the ptfe which is about 260 before it starts to break down.
As an extra protection I now wrap the exposed metal part of the thermocouple with some katpon tape which is supposed to be ok up to 400C. I then cover that with the ptfe. When i wrap it i try to get a bit of tape between the wires as well so they are separated by it too.
For the other end - the thermocouple wires are just a pain and cannot be soldered so you need to mechanically connect them. I use the little green wire connector things which clamp down on them - you could use a tiny crimp and crimp them to some normal wire.
What i am doing to allow me to quickly swap the controller between heaters is the thermocouple is connected to normal wires - the normal wires are connected to those magnetic wire things like:
You could just unscrew them too. I just have different thermocouples on each heater. They are a little fiddly to make but if you first pull the ptfe over the wires and then wrap the exposed end with the kapton tape and slide the ptfe back over to hold it in place its not so hard.
When taking it past 260C i would suggest removing the thermocouple bit from the heater so not to damage it - you could coat it in the kapton and I suspect some how get the thicker braid outer coating over it and it should be able to go to 400C but maybe only use it with an inner tube so the glass braid is out of the airpath.
There are limits in the code to stop it going past 260C but if people want to they can edit and increase it if they want.
I take off the outer liner so you have the 2 thinner leads -this fits between the tubes. But to protect the rp2040 board in case the the thermocouple shorts and touches the heater element it needs to be insulated electrically. If you use the 16mm OD stems without the inner liner you dont want to breath over the braid.
I first used just a very small diameter ptfe tube over the thermocouple and all of the braided covered wire inside the heater - so the ptfe is the only material in the airpath along with the heater element when no inner liner is used. But if something goes wrong or you push it too much you can go past the safe working limit of the ptfe which is about 260 before it starts to break down.
As an extra protection I now wrap the exposed metal part of the thermocouple with some katpon tape which is supposed to be ok up to 400C. I then cover that with the ptfe. When i wrap it i try to get a bit of tape between the wires as well so they are separated by it too.
For the other end - the thermocouple wires are just a pain and cannot be soldered so you need to mechanically connect them. I use the little green wire connector things which clamp down on them - you could use a tiny crimp and crimp them to some normal wire.
What i am doing to allow me to quickly swap the controller between heaters is the thermocouple is connected to normal wires - the normal wires are connected to those magnetic wire things like:
You could just unscrew them too. I just have different thermocouples on each heater. They are a little fiddly to make but if you first pull the ptfe over the wires and then wrap the exposed end with the kapton tape and slide the ptfe back over to hold it in place its not so hard.
When taking it past 260C i would suggest removing the thermocouple bit from the heater so not to damage it - you could coat it in the kapton and I suspect some how get the thicker braid outer coating over it and it should be able to go to 400C but maybe only use it with an inner tube so the glass braid is out of the airpath.
There are limits in the code to stop it going past 260C but if people want to they can edit and increase it if they want.
Sorry not had a chance to do a how to but been doing some testing on the new 16mm stems, For scale there is a normal tm2 stem in the pic.
All pair very well with the 18mm j-hook with an o-ring. You can use them as an outer liner tube for smaller diameter tubes as well like with the inner heater.
The 1mm walled one is rather fast and have managed to scorch the weed with it - but a tight pack of a small amount fine grind is nice with it.
The other end of the scale is the 3mm walled one - its got quite a heat sink capacity and once you let it get hot you can just puff away on it like a blunt with no need to put in it the heater for ages. More of a tube vape than a ball.
Also been testing the new thicker walled heaters - the 1,5mm (middle in the pic) pair perfectly well with the 12mm stems and the 1mm with 13mm stems.
I flip between using it with the inner heater or raw with the 16mm stems. Its more tasty with the inner heater but i do like the free draw of the 16mm OD 1.5 or 2mm stem - the 1mm is good but you have to be a careful with it as its like there is nothing between the weed and the heater almost.
All pair very well with the 18mm j-hook with an o-ring. You can use them as an outer liner tube for smaller diameter tubes as well like with the inner heater.
The 1mm walled one is rather fast and have managed to scorch the weed with it - but a tight pack of a small amount fine grind is nice with it.
The other end of the scale is the 3mm walled one - its got quite a heat sink capacity and once you let it get hot you can just puff away on it like a blunt with no need to put in it the heater for ages. More of a tube vape than a ball.
Also been testing the new thicker walled heaters - the 1,5mm (middle in the pic) pair perfectly well with the 12mm stems and the 1mm with 13mm stems.
I flip between using it with the inner heater or raw with the 16mm stems. Its more tasty with the inner heater but i do like the free draw of the 16mm OD 1.5 or 2mm stem - the 1mm is good but you have to be a careful with it as its like there is nothing between the weed and the heater almost.
Last edited: