indicandescent
Dismembered Member
Oh, my. Squaredog is gorgeous! Like, whoa.
@underdog @underdogette
Thanks so much for making my Squaredog! You picked the perfect wood and it turned out better than I imagined. Thanks for all you do.
Have a good weekend all!
"Heat soaking" is something we do for approx. 20-40 seconds with a loaded stem bowl in contact with the heating port... so not sure what you mean. Can you explain, please? Thanks!That squaredog looks like it would be perfect to leave plugged in for perpetual heat soaking.
"Heat soaking" is something we do for approx. 20-40 seconds with a loaded stem bowl in contact with the heating port... so not sure what you mean. Can you explain, please? Thanks!
"Heat soaking" is something we do for approx. 20-40 seconds with a loaded stem bowl in contact with the heating port... so not sure what you mean. Can you explain, please? Thanks!
Thanks for clarifying your stated application of "perpetual heat soaking". I have 12 log vapes now, all of varying wood densities, from very light to very dense. I am well familiar with your idea for "perpetual" wood heat soaking, and have personally found the benefit mentioned to be limited to a much shorter duration and effect than one might expect in terms of maintained heat per consecutive draws, and in effect unnecessarily over-burdens the wood and heater when always left on at the higher temps, reducing overall longevity of the unit. Even if you only fully heated your log vape for a few hours prior to a session, the consistent maintenance of temp from 1st draw to last draw might be much less than expected, only because any heat transfer from wood back to the heater port after each draw would be nominal given the time intervals, materials and distance between, (i.e., the loss of heat between draws is lost mostly from the heater tube, and not the wood). In my estimation the cost-to-benefit ratio for this method is greatly over emphasized. Perpetual heat soaking of the wood may be best applied to the comforts of an always-on hand warmer at medium-low temps in winter only... JMO. :-)Plug it in & let it get nice & warm so the heat soaks through the wood. I get the best out of my UD if I let it heat up for hours or even days so the whole unit is nice & warm. It could be placebo but if the unit is warm that does not rob any heat from the unit so it is all used for extraction. Maybe not the best use of vernacular from me as it does usually refer to a stem.
I can say with confidence that I have been using my UD since my post this afternoon & after a 10 hour session I am absolutely fucked after spending all day using the VapCap before @Madcap79 inspired me to break out some convection goodness. Dear god the GonG through a j Hook is sublime & I am proud I am still in a state where I can type.
@6079Smith thanks for explaining it better than I did
I believe the square shape is actually more labor intensive than the cylinder because a lathe can't be used. I believe that's why they don't do them more often.Squaredog looks great!
I always wondered why log makers don't sell square logs at a discounted price. No turning saves a bunch of labor!
Thanks for clarifying your stated application of "perpetual heat soaking". I have 12 log vapes now, all of varying wood densities, from very light to very dense. I am well familiar with your idea for "perpetual" wood heat soaking, and have personally found the benefit mentioned to be limited to a much shorter duration and effect than one might expect in terms of maintained heat per consecutive draws, and in effect unnecessarily over-burdens the wood and heater when always left on at the higher temps, reducing overall longevity of the unit. Even if you only fully heated your log vape for a few hours prior to a session, the consistent maintenance of temp from 1st draw to last draw might be much less than expected, only because any heat transfer from wood back to the heater port after each draw would be nominal given the time intervals between, (i.e., the loss of heat between draws is lost mostly from the heater tube, and not the wood). In my estimation the cost-to-benefit ratio for this method is greatly over emphasized. Perpetual heat soaking of the wood may be best applied to the comforts of an always-on hand warmer at medium-low temps in winter only... JMO. :-)
Also know that the vast majority of the wood's heat originating from the heater core radiates outward and is lost into the atmosphere, thereby mitigating it's insulating effects relative to the heater tube to minimal degrees.I would agree with you and is the reason for my dimmer and now remote set up. The top of my dog started browning more than I liked, initially, so I changed my ways. Part of it was the copper cup trapping heat, I think, even at lower levels. It doesn't take long for my pup to level off in terms of heat soak and reach it's max temp as determined by voltage, ambient air, wood density/thickness, etc. No continued benefit after this point is reached aside from on demand dog rips- which is pretty damn cool
I took @Stevenski's original comment to be referencing the sheer mass of the square dog taking much longer to soak. Where he and I may differ is in the continued benefit once this point is reached or period of time to get there, though all our dogs are different and some more than others- that square dog literally looks to be ten times the material as my pup... My dog feels so emasculated!
...that square dog literally looks to be ten times the material as my pup... My dog feels so emasculated!
That is the nickname! I believe the Underdog team even referred to it as such.
Also know that the vast majority of the wood's heat originating from the heater core radiates outward and is lost into the atmosphere, thereby mitigating it's insulating effects relative to the heater tube to minimal degrees.
I would think it is the constant electrical current that keeps the heater core temp refreshed between draws much more so than anything else - 98.5%-to-1.5% or thereabouts guessing, leaving very little credit for any assistance given by the wood to the maintenance of interior higher heat ambiance or conductivity back into the core.I agree with the first part, disagree with the second but maybe I'm misunderstanding- are you saying there's no benefit to a heat soaked dog?
Air is a poor conductor, for sure, but that's what we are waiting on when warming up our dogs, no? To create that ambient heat that helps the heater. There's a brief period of time where the heater is max temp but not the dog, this is what I refer to. During this time one would be able more easily overwhelm that smaller available heat.
I would think it is the constant electrical current that keeps the heater core temp refreshed between draws much more so - 98.5%-to-1% or thereabouts, leaving very little credit for any assistance given by the wood to the maintenance of interior higher heat ambiance.
It doesn't really "help" the heater, but rather a fully heat soaked dog will stop absorbing (robbing) as much heat from the core which allows for more heat to be used for making sweet, sweet vapor.To create that ambient heat that helps the heater.
It doesn't really "help" the heater, but rather a fully heat soaked dog will stop absorbing (robbing) as much heat from the core which allows for more heat to be used for making sweet, sweet vapor.
Edit: Yeah, what Dave said!
My apologies for the thermal dynamics derail. Sometimes, due to advanced age , I forget where I am.