eLiguL
Well-Known Member
Bee's wax, he mentions it on his website.
Hitomi
Well-Known Member
On the website it says it is also mixed with oils. I was wondering which oils.
...I wish Dave would make a shorty version of the wood stem as it would be even better for vaporbonging. (Are you listening, Dave??)
You've got my attention Stu..
what exactly is it you want me to make? Are you using a wood stem to fit into a GonG joing? Is that what you're talking about? Do explain.. 
@ mwapes - thanks for the heads up on that other (empty) UD thread.. I'll keep an eye on it.
@ dorkus - long time no see dude, glad to hear you're still rocking your Down-Under Dog.
@ HoneyAir - yep I am familiar with the HI design and agree the user-serviceable nature is awesome. I'm working on some design options that might allow for user replaceable parts in a future UD but we're not quite there yet.
@ Hitomi - the underbutter is organic beeswax combined with a blend of organic walnut oil and food grade pharmaceutical mineral oil. We tweaked the proportions slightly a few batches back to get a slightly softer butter. I keep getting emails now from people saying they're using it as a lip balm lol..
Alright Dogs have a rocking Tuesday I'm heading to the shop to check-in on the pups in the creche and get some work done.. talk to y'all later.
You've got my attention Stu..
Yeah, I use the wood stem to mate with my glass pieces. It is essentially a WonG (Wood on Glass) adapter that is glass lined. The seal isn't airtight, but it is plenty good enough for fat rips. 2 things could improve it, however.
1) Shorten the stem down to a couple inches only (give or take)
2) Work the wood to fit better into the GonG joint of the water piece. Basically, if you mimicked the shape of a 14.4mm (or for that matter, 18.8mm) male GonG joint using your lathe, it would be a "proper" WonG WPA.
As I've mentioned before ad nausium, I love your wood stem design. The way the glass mates with the thick silicone, wedging the screen perfectly in place is genius. If it were just shorter, and made to mate with GonG pieces, I think it would be a real winner.
djonkoman
Well-Known Member
the posts are piling up quickly gain over here I see
what I use for connecting to a bong:
standard glass stem with thin silicon sleeve, for seal with 14 mm GonG, and a thick silicon bowl. I like to be able to remove the thick silicon bowl easily, so the length that it shares with the glass is so short it slides easily. the thin silicone sleeve is so long that, while making the seal, it will stop the thick silicon at the desired point(with 1-2 cm between the glass and the screen)
I used to reove the entire downstem with clearing, but now I just remove the UD+bowl, the bowl is just a short piece of thick silicone so it will hang onto the heatport, if I don''t take abother hit immediatly I remove it and ether put it away or leave it on the bong, the bowls will stand on their own, so I can have multiple partly vaped loads at once(hash and weed, or multiple strains)
also another funny story of UD-convertion.
last week a friend came over, who never really liked vaporiing. he used my VG multiple times, but never quite got the hang of it.
we sat down and took alternating hits with UD+bong, with hash. I already began feeling it, but he said he didn''t really feel it. so I emptied out my grinder, wich was 1 bowl worth, we vaped that. aftyer that continued with the hash, and I threw in some hash of myself to make it a little denser. at this point I began to feel pretty vaped, I asked him if he felt it now. barely he answered, about the same as from 2 hits from a joint(without tobacco, I converted him to smoking pure a while back).wich is weird, since he usually is higher sooner. since he had to leave soon I handed him the UD without bong, wich he liked better.
when he is about to leave he says he does feel it coming on then.
and today he says he wants to buy a vaporizer too(but one that is portable and electric)
what I use for connecting to a bong:
standard glass stem with thin silicon sleeve, for seal with 14 mm GonG, and a thick silicon bowl. I like to be able to remove the thick silicon bowl easily, so the length that it shares with the glass is so short it slides easily. the thin silicone sleeve is so long that, while making the seal, it will stop the thick silicon at the desired point(with 1-2 cm between the glass and the screen)
I used to reove the entire downstem with clearing, but now I just remove the UD+bowl, the bowl is just a short piece of thick silicone so it will hang onto the heatport, if I don''t take abother hit immediatly I remove it and ether put it away or leave it on the bong, the bowls will stand on their own, so I can have multiple partly vaped loads at once(hash and weed, or multiple strains)
also another funny story of UD-convertion.
last week a friend came over, who never really liked vaporiing. he used my VG multiple times, but never quite got the hang of it.
we sat down and took alternating hits with UD+bong, with hash. I already began feeling it, but he said he didn''t really feel it. so I emptied out my grinder, wich was 1 bowl worth, we vaped that. aftyer that continued with the hash, and I threw in some hash of myself to make it a little denser. at this point I began to feel pretty vaped, I asked him if he felt it now. barely he answered, about the same as from 2 hits from a joint(without tobacco, I converted him to smoking pure a while back).wich is weird, since he usually is higher sooner. since he had to leave soon I handed him the UD without bong, wich he liked better.
when he is about to leave he says he does feel it coming on then.
and today he says he wants to buy a vaporizer too(but one that is portable and electric)
OhTheAgony
here for the chicks
Dave, make two please 
I think this one needs a very thorough testing by at least two people
I think this one needs a very thorough testing by at least two people
@ djonk - good job on making a vapor convert even if it won't be to an UD.. 
@ OTA - I'll see what I can do there dude..
Ok, lunch is over back to work in the shop. Working on some stragglers that are in to see the vet and polishing off a couple custom orders. Also have to get back to breaking down that couple tons of wood pictured a few days back on the trailer. Takes a lot of time to re-saw it down to sizes that we can then get in the kiln to dry out. The work around here would seem to be never ending..
@ OTA - I'll see what I can do there dude..
Ok, lunch is over back to work in the shop. Working on some stragglers that are in to see the vet and polishing off a couple custom orders. Also have to get back to breaking down that couple tons of wood pictured a few days back on the trailer. Takes a lot of time to re-saw it down to sizes that we can then get in the kiln to dry out. The work around here would seem to be never ending..
T
That Herb Guy
Guest
So after a few days of time together (and an account change), the rainbow poplar and I are almost inseparable. If I'm home, she's in arms reach LOL. I've only combusted twice since I got it (which really credits the unit, this was my first vape and I was really worried about not being satisfied with the buzz), because I have a strong love for a nice J. Generally I'd have burned through the whole supply by now, but even almost constant use with this thing has still only burned up about an 8th.
Dave, sign me up for one of those WoG stems if they end up working out. That sounds a lot more appealing to me than the glass WPB, if only for aesthetics. Honestly that's the only bit of this process I still haven't quite nailed down. I've tried working with both stems, but just can't get a good fit on the downstem. I do have a glass adapter piece coming so I'm hoping that will solve the problem, but if the wood bowls end up working out I'll be scooping one of those up fairly quickly too.
Dave, sign me up for one of those WoG stems if they end up working out. That sounds a lot more appealing to me than the glass WPB, if only for aesthetics. Honestly that's the only bit of this process I still haven't quite nailed down. I've tried working with both stems, but just can't get a good fit on the downstem. I do have a glass adapter piece coming so I'm hoping that will solve the problem, but if the wood bowls end up working out I'll be scooping one of those up fairly quickly too.
upperlevel
Well-Known Member
Got heavily medicated and made some rough 'stickers'.
placetime
Well-Known Member
Some people have gotten these lately:I'm looking for a variable voltage power supply for my Pup! Any recommendations? What's the highest voltage it should be set to? Thanks Dogs
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/r...upplies-for-log-vapes.4918/page-6#post-296559
Time will tell how well they work. Hazy has made a couple of posts now about it. Maybe someone with a UD has one now? Seems like a few pages back or so somebody said they were going to order one, I think. Maybe OTA got one? And I think several people have had good luck with the Spartans here: http://www.tattoomachineequipment.com/tattoo-power-supplies
Highest voltage? Uhhhh...Dave? I seem to recall someone saying to stay under 14V, but I can't guarantee that's 100% correct. I recommend checking the voltage on the fixed-voltage power supply you're currently using. Odds are it'll be closer to 13V than 12V, I think. Make sure you test with the UD plugged in (can be tricky
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
)
SD_haze
Well-Known Member
On one hand, the air intake on the Underdog is right at the top, in close proximity to the sticker.
Got heavily medicated and made some rough 'stickers'.
On the other hand, the hottest part of my UDs was always the mid section, with the top being barely warm. In that sense, it would seem to be okay (and cool!)
I know a lot of synthetic materials are made to cure to a certain point where it stops off-gassing, just don't know how that applies to something like cheap tape.
Looks like normal scotch tape, is it special stuff?
upperlevel
Well-Known Member
I donT keepm
I dont keep the stickers on during use.On one hand, the air intake on the Underdog is right at the top, in close proximity to the sticker.
On the other hand, the hottest part of my UDs was always the mid section, with the top being barely warm. In that sense, it would seem to be okay (and cool!)
I know a lot of synthetic materials are made to cure to a certain point where it stops off-gassing, just don't know how that applies to something like cheap tape.
Looks like normal scotch tape, is it special stuff?
eLiguL
Well-Known Member
Got my notice from Canada Post today. I gotta pick up my pup from the post office tomorrow and im excited.
Just a note for my fellow Canadians, I got dinged with a customs charge for $35.88, that and shipping comes out to $65.88, something to consider before ordering.
Just a note for my fellow Canadians, I got dinged with a customs charge for $35.88, that and shipping comes out to $65.88, something to consider before ordering.
Yeah, I use the wood stem to mate with my glass pieces. It is essentially a WonG (Wood on Glass) adapter that is glass lined. The seal isn't airtight, but it is plenty good enough for fat rips. 2 things could improve it, however.
1) Shorten the stem down to a couple inches only (give or take)
2) Work the wood to fit better into the GonG joint of the water piece. Basically, if you mimicked the shape of a 14.4mm (or for that matter, 18.8mm) male GonG joint using your lathe, it would be a "proper" WonG WPA.
As I've mentioned before ad nausium, I love your wood stem design. The way the glass mates with the thick silicone, wedging the screen perfectly in place is genius. If it were just shorter, and made to mate with GonG pieces, I think it would be a real winner.
I too would love a wong - awesome name Stu!
Wow, lots of peeps interested in a WonG stem.. lol.. I'll work on figuring out how to make them this weekend and hopefully get them available soon.
@ Crohnie - You shouldn't ever need to push your Pup beyond 13.5v-14v and only that high for max heat or for oils, etc. For most uses 12v-13.5v should be your sweet spot-range. So basically any 15v VVPS should do the trick nicely.
@ upperlevel - nice 'stickers' dude, I still need you guys from the forums to make up some sticker designs (official ones) so I can choose to have 1-2 printed now that we're out of stickers again. You want to get involved?
@ nice setup drewper glad you're rocking one of those damn-hard-to-make-pain-in-my-ass WPB-GonG stems! 
@ eLiguL - man, sorry you guys up north get nailed so hard by customs.. do you have to pay sales takx or anything on top of that, or that what it is basically? I'm kind in the dark on such things since we don't have to deal with much of that down here.
Alright, no huge announcements for the day so far.. just pulled 12 Pups out of testing so they can get some bottoms put on and get ready for the refresh. Put 21 more into testing to replace those, that many puts a big load on the power supply but I've gotta get these Pups done and ready for you guys so it'll just have to suck it up. Once those 21 are done in 72 hours I'll put the last 12-13 in and then we'll be done for this refresh (which has been a large one!). So much work so few hours.. I need a nap lol.
Back to the shop for me.. laters.
@ Crohnie - You shouldn't ever need to push your Pup beyond 13.5v-14v and only that high for max heat or for oils, etc. For most uses 12v-13.5v should be your sweet spot-range. So basically any 15v VVPS should do the trick nicely.
@ upperlevel - nice 'stickers' dude, I still need you guys from the forums to make up some sticker designs (official ones) so I can choose to have 1-2 printed now that we're out of stickers again. You want to get involved?
@ nice setup drewper glad you're rocking one of those damn-hard-to-make-pain-in-my-ass WPB-GonG stems!
@ eLiguL - man, sorry you guys up north get nailed so hard by customs.. do you have to pay sales takx or anything on top of that, or that what it is basically? I'm kind in the dark on such things since we don't have to deal with much of that down here.
Alright, no huge announcements for the day so far.. just pulled 12 Pups out of testing so they can get some bottoms put on and get ready for the refresh. Put 21 more into testing to replace those, that many puts a big load on the power supply but I've gotta get these Pups done and ready for you guys so it'll just have to suck it up.
Once those 21 are done in 72 hours I'll put the last 12-13 in and then we'll be done for this refresh (which has been a large one!). So much work so few hours.. I need a nap lol. Back to the shop for me.. laters.
eLiguL
Well-Known Member
Its basically duty they charge on the invoice which is ridiculous since technically under NAFTA this should be exempt seeing as how it was made in the US with over 80% of the materials originating in the US. I got dinged with the same charge when I purchased my PD many moons ago.
djonkoman
Well-Known Member
I often turn my vvps to 14 volts if I get home and don't want to wait the full time, I leave it on 14 volts for 10-15 minutes usually
but while in use I never go higher as 13,5-13,6 (that's for hash, with weed I prefer a lower voltage, but my sweetspot can change by strain)
but while in use I never go higher as 13,5-13,6 (that's for hash, with weed I prefer a lower voltage, but my sweetspot can change by strain)
HighlyEducatedScholar
Student of Vapor
i still love the original Underdog stickers that you've provided Dave. They're very classy and like someone else in here said, kinda like an 'inside joke' type of deal. i threw mine on my longboarding helmet and think it looks pretty badass. my brother who saw it now wants one too to put on his helmet
djonkoman
Well-Known Member
looks like a nice slope, I imagine that surface rattles a lot though, similar to some roads around here(but those are all flat, like all land here, no slopes. no cracks in the roads here tough)
are you downhilling a lot? since you wear a helmet longboarding.(and it seems a hilly lanscape)
are you downhilling a lot? since you wear a helmet longboarding.(and it seems a hilly lanscape)
HighlyEducatedScholar
Student of Vapor
actually the road surface isn't too bad here but i definitely know what you're taking about. i hate the roads that make your board chatter cause they're so bumpy. my neighborhood is pretty hilly including the rest of my town. however, there are a lot of cracks around in my neighborhood which can make downhilling scary at times.
i'm downhilling a lot recently, mainly because i'm starting to learn how to glove slide. i'm really trying to learn how to slide but most of the time i just cruise around below 20mph(~32kph). unfortunately its starting to get real cold over here on the East side so i'm not longboarding around as much since it also gets dark pretty early now(~5PM). thankfully i have my UD waiting for me at home to keep my hands warm
i'm downhilling a lot recently, mainly because i'm starting to learn how to glove slide. i'm really trying to learn how to slide but most of the time i just cruise around below 20mph(~32kph). unfortunately its starting to get real cold over here on the East side so i'm not longboarding around as much since it also gets dark pretty early now(~5PM). thankfully i have my UD waiting for me at home to keep my hands warm