Tornado by Vestratto

RedZep

Well-Known Member
My thoughts on the vapor thing.

A carb cap works because it lowers the pressure thus lowering the boiling point of the vapor. RELEASING the vapor at a slightly lower tempriture.

Using a liquid and the word atomization, it needs to pass throught a small orfice at a high pressure. Thinking of fuel injecton. 60 to 150 psi.

Using Vapor, the orfice would have to be soo small we could not draw through it.

Its all the same stuff coming out of the bowl. Big chuncks or little, I can't see how they get changed unless its a true ventrui or incredibly small orfice.

I mentioned earlier, keeping the vapor hot will help keep it from condensing on anything and gets more to the end user. :)

So I don't doubt the tornado, but I question the vapor thing.

Since its a 427*f vapor, isn't it already atomized? Isn't that how it finds it way out of the herb?

David
I don't know if the secondary atomiser is functioning as advertised. I have doubts also. However it seems beyond doubt that something in this design is creating smooth vapour. In lieu of other explanations, a functioning atomiser is the best we have.

I think increased potency is a difficult one to gauge, because of the very large bowl. Also because the Anvil is very potent itself. There is always a honeymoon effect with new vapes where they get us more wrecked than usual. Increased potency could be explained by the larger bowl, and better extraction.
 

DarkRoast

Well-Known Member
Here are some notes I've made from my (torch only) experience of using the Tornado for a few days, in no particular order:

  • I've been completely closing the bowl rather than loosening 1/16 turn, but just with a feather-touch tightness and it hasn't got locked in place yet. Unscrewing the 1/16 turn I could hear fresh air entering which I felt was not how the device should work. Whether it actually matters I don't know.
  • As has been previously mentioned, the click discs seemed to be a bit stiffer on the very first few heat ups. I say this because I over darkened the herb at first, but with all variables remaining the same (as far as possible) by the end of the first day the AVB was less dark. Worth taking into consideration when dialing in your preferred roast.
  • With the same flame size and heating to first click, I heat in the middle of the large part of the oven (between holes and bowl) whereas with the Anvil I would need to heat a a little lower down towards the copper battery (further away from the click discs). John currently recommends heating the Vestratto lettering for a few seconds first, but I haven't been doing this. Maybe once he's experimented while using his new thermal imaging gun thing he'll confirm a recommended technique.
  • I load very loosely. That means 0.05 in the Anvil full size (not the XL) bowl and now up to 0.15 in the Tornado XL. Very even AVB. I suspect that like the Anvil, a tighter pack would result in the bottom of the load being darker than the top, but I haven't tried >0.15 so I'd be interested to hear results from people loading 0.2+ etc.
  • Works well for tiny 0.01 microdoses so no need to really use the Anvil now :(
  • One heat up achieves full extraction, which was important for me.
  • Same dense, hybrid, copper-core vapour as the Anvil, more bioavailable I couldn't say.
  • The Madheaters Reload magnet still works fine to unscrew the hot bowl, though the bowl diameter is too large to fit flush on the magnet.
Can't think of anything else at the moment, please agree/disagree and hopefully find useful the above.
@chlorophyll_man Thanks a ton! I found my thermal discs didn't work great and I actually combusted twice. After several heatings I actually realized there are two discs (it seemed only one was clicking at first). Appreciate your write up here!!!
 

TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
Bought myself an aluminum pipe with a glass lined interior to have something portable and unbreakable for the Tornado.
Scruffy's adapters still held up by the postal strike although they were recently legislated back. Nothing yet.

I took a chance on the pipe as I didn't know the exact dimensions but it was not expensive and looked to be workable. The bowl wasn't wide enough to use the WPA adapter so right now I'm using a silicone master adapter from SneakyPete and it seems snug. I removed the small glass bowl and now the SneakyPete adapter fits flush and I can use the Tornado without removing the WPA. Cooling works well so far.

Edit: Uploaded a better pic that also shows a carb on the side which is a really nice feature. Because the stem and pipe head can unscrew, the whole thing could be really compact in a case with the Wand. I'm liking this for a travel setup.
 
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Duba

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Bought myself an aluminum pipe with a glass lined interior to have something portable and unbreakable for the Tornado.
Scruffy's adapters still held up by the postal strike although they were recently legislated back. Nothing yet.
I had a similar one from long time and i asked a friend to make a me wood 14mm adapter and it works like a charm now. I also changed the stem to one with picots (the classic glass dynavap stems, also used in the Fw7, fit very well). I love it!

I love using the Anvil and the Tornado natively, the Tornado is very sweet given the amount of vapor it produces. The Anvil is a little harder on the throat, but I still love it, it's got character.
IMG-20241222-103258.jpg
 
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TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
I tried to DIY a de-capper tool since I never owned an Anvil before getting a Tornado. I took a roofing nail with a nice wide top and pushed it into a wine cork so the head was flush with the top of the cork. Then I took a nice sized, round, flat neodymium magnet and stuck it on top. Voila.

 

PossumMD

Well-Known Member
Anyone got tips for a thread locked oven? Haven't really had a crack at it yet, but I imagine it's gonna need something given I've just given it a quick attempt and it's still seized over 12hrs later...
 
PossumMD,

electrokho82

Well-Known Member
Anyone got tips for a thread locked oven? Haven't really had a crack at it yet, but I imagine it's gonna need something given I've just given it a quick attempt and it's still seized over 12hrs later...
Using a standard 1/8-inch Allen key, you can insert it into this hexagonal hole to unscrew the bowl, even if it is stuck:
 

PossumMD

Well-Known Member
Using a standard 1/8-inch Allen key, you can insert it into this hexagonal hole to unscrew the bowl, even if it is stuck:
Champion. Figured it was something this easy and knew I was better off asking before I fucked it up.

That being said, I've probably just jinxed myself here and super locked it now hahahaha.

Edit: that was nearly as easy as me after a couple of pints on a Friday night.
 
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2tiki

Well-Known Member
Champion. Figured it was something this easy and knew I was better off asking before I fucked it up.

That being said, I've probably just jinxed myself here and super locked it now hahahaha.
Some times when things are stuck like that, if you put them in the freezer, they shrink just enough to make it easier. So you could try that if the tool alone doesn't work.
 

PossumMD

Well-Known Member
Have scrolled back a bit now, I have no idea why quotes from the start of the year are being bumped, but I feel someone has to say it, "gasification" isn't a relevant term here.
 

Vaporfly

Member
Followup on Nado not fitting in my wand.

Bought some digital calipers - tornado coming in at 13.8 mm at the point that it "catches" in the wand
Wand opening coming in at 13.7

Been corresponding with sneaky pete CS and they told me that the products aren't designed to work together, so if they fit, it's just a nice coincidence, and that it's actually better to insert from the bottom.

Whether it's "better" or not, is it overly petty to just want to be able to use the products in the same manner I watched Pete use the wand/tornado on a stream that's not even a week old? Having a hands free heating option is part of why I picked the wand. I also saw John tell him in the stream that it's better to insert from the bottom, but looking online (videos, forum posts, etc) it seems like most people default to dropping it in the top, and it just feels off not being able to do what most seem to "default" to.

Need feedback on if I would be out of line for returning and asking for a replacement. In between that, returning and getting the Camouflet inductor, or holding on to it and making due till the Forge revision comes out.
If you lay your wand upside down and just rest it on the lip it’s hand free. At the second click I pulled out and it was really RTL , milked like crazy more toasty taste so I may try again tonight but pull out with the first click. Otherwise I may try these cork methods of cutting out a disk and inserting it. Sure it’s upside down but it’s fine until we get a better solution.
 
Vaporfly,

TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
If you lay your wand upside down and just rest it on the lip it’s hand free. At the second click I pulled out and it was really RTL , milked like crazy more toasty taste so I may try again tonight but pull out with the first click. Otherwise I may try these cork methods of cutting out a disk and inserting it. Sure it’s upside down but it’s fine until we get a better solution.
I always hold it freehand because I find the heating times are pretty short but what about laying the Wand on its side? I haven't tried it but wondering if the Tornado would roll out or if it could be balanced in there.

Edit: For the best taste, I find I like to pull the Wand out before any clicks - making the heating times even shorter.
 

Vaporfly

Member
I always hold it freehand because I find the heating times are pretty short but what about laying the Wand on its side? I haven't tried it but wondering if the Tornado would roll out or if it could be balanced in there.

Edit: For the best taste, I find I like to pull the Wand out before any clicks - making the heating times even shorter.
Never considered doing it sideways but I’ll def give it a try. My only “concern” is that since I’m resting it on the lip it’d at a slight angle instead of straight fíen the middle as say a tempest with its adapter would sit just ever so slightly laying over. I guess in terms of heating this shouldn’t matter too much. I’m thinking my RTL on the second click is prob because it’s a super new device to me (never used vestrstto before) and it does seem clickers need a break in period. My tempest def did!!!
 

TigoleBitties

Big and Bouncy
Never considered doing it sideways but I’ll def give it a try. My only “concern” is that since I’m resting it on the lip it’d at a slight angle instead of straight fíen the middle as say a tempest with its adapter would sit just ever so slightly laying over. I guess in terms of heating this shouldn’t matter too much. I’m thinking my RTL on the second click is prob because it’s a super new device to me (never used vestrstto before) and it does seem clickers need a break in period. My tempest def did!!!
Yeah there's a break-in period for sure but what I've found is even stopping at the first click will give a pretty dark roast. The second click is like coffee. This is why I like to get right up close to the click but not hear it while I'm still heating. Usually it's a perfect roast for me if it clicks as I'm drawing for the first time.
 

Zarete

Active Member
Yeah there's a break-in period for sure but what I've found is even stopping at the first click will give a pretty dark roast. The second click is like coffee. This is why I like to get right up close to the click but not hear it while I'm still heating. Usually it's a perfect roast for me if it clicks as I'm drawing for the first time.
That is, the clicks are not correctly calibrated. I agree, I have the same problem. They should sound at a lower temperature.
 

Roffa

Well-Known Member
That is, the clicks are not correctly calibrated. I agree, I have the same problem. They should sound at a lower temperature.
It's the way the device builds up and distributes heat. I use a camouflet inductor, but I also torch with a kitchen torch at full blast. And the best technique is to blast for max 3 seconds, let the heat distribute and draw. Usually, that's when the disc will click. My experience is that if you start from cold, the clicks are accurate. But the oven stores heat for a long time, so you have to compensate for the stored heat with your second bowl. Often, you just need a little push, while you draw, with the wand, and the vapor is there again. If you do it this way, you can kind of ride the thermal energy and you minimize roasting the flower.
 

Zarete

Active Member
It's the way the device builds up and distributes heat. I use a camouflet inductor, but I also torch with a kitchen torch at full blast. And the best technique is to blast for max 3 seconds, let the heat distribute and draw. Usually, that's when the disc will click. My experience is that if you start from cold, the clicks are accurate. But the oven stores heat for a long time, so you have to compensate for the stored heat with your second bowl. Often, you just need a little push, while you draw, with the wand, and the vapor is there again. If you do it this way, you can kind of ride the thermal energy and you minimize roasting the flower.
That's what I do and it works fine, but the clicks are not tuned well, they should sound a little earlier.

 

AndyO

Well-Known Member
That's what I do and it works fine, but the clicks are not tuned well, they should sound a little earlier.

The more I use it, the more I'm coming to this conclusion to.

As my click discs have "worn in", they're clicking later. I haven't changed my torch style - I'm still using single flame, pretty slow heat, just above the dots, but it's such a darker roast now.

I'd started to wonder whether interchanging between the Wand and my torch might've messed with something, but I'm not sure whether that even makes sense.
 
AndyO,
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Roffa

Well-Known Member
The more I use it, the more I'm coming to this conclusion to.

As my click discs have "worn in", they're clicking later. I haven't changed my torch style - I'm still using single flame, pretty slow heat, just above the dots, but it's such a darker roast now.

I'd started to wonder whether interchanging between the Wand and my torch might've messed with something, but I'm not sure whether that even makes sense.
In my experience Tornado likes fierce and short, not long and slow. I had to unlearn my Anvil habits
 

Knewt

Well-Known Member
In my experience Tornado likes fierce and short, not long and slow. I had to unlearn my Anvil habits
I’m doing the low and slow. I will take multiple drags before the first click. I heat using a Ronx or Firefox Blazer. I use mine dry on the OG stem with a J pipe. I find with my method I can achieve a dark roast without combusting. I think this thing will be even better when I get my Forge upgraded.
 
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