Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
I did... what's so funny? are you saying that I am stoned? 
Discontinued ThermoVape
- Thread starter VaporBoxed
- Start date
Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
Ok, I found it in the fine print. <sigh!> You guys could have politely let me know instead of making fun of me though! 
Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
It was just a normal day. I guess if I had to blame it on anything it would be that I am a fool for a good deal (some bad deals too) and I wasn't really paying that close attention. D'oh!
jambandphan03
in flavor country
Well, he sold the last one, so it's a done deal. I ended up getting a spare Ultra body from an e cig site, compensation for breaking my 5" aquavape today ![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
it was the little one, and bound to happen eventually.
it was the little one, and bound to happen eventually.
OF
Well-Known Member
Well, he sold the last one, so it's a done deal. I ended up getting a spare Ultra body from an e cig site, compensation for breaking my 5" aquavape today
Sorry for your loss, Lady. At least now I know what the flags at half staff is all about.......
"Twice blessed is he with two Ultras" as they say.
OF
Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
Nice! I went through 2 Aqua Vapes. The first one the bottom nozzle must have been a little weak because it eventually just popped off and on the second one the perc came unattached on the interior while sitting in a drawer. Sorry to hear you lost yours.Well, he sold the last one, so it's a done deal. I ended up getting a spare Ultra body from an e cig site, compensation for breaking my 5" aquavape today
BelieveInBuddha
New Member
thanks for the headsup on the AVA. I just got my order of 510 kanger carts but im going to hold off on testing with them.
Attention T1 base unit owners.
I have always liked the T1 power handle but have not used for a while. Been playing with alternative power solutions for my Bulli device. Lots of DIY options out there as there is no latchable power on handles to be had. At least not that I have found. A simple solution was to use the T1 handle for 18650 batteries.
This is not a new idea as using without the inner sleeve and removing the outer wrapper on the battery for a ground connection. This has not been recommended as it bypasses any protection which is mounted on the bottom of the battery.
However, with the search for a latchable switch had me re-think this concept. What I have done is made it into a 18650 supply which is in a normally "on" state but can be held in an "off" state manually. Simply take handle off vaporizer when not using. Can't get much safer than that.
OK, for what I did. All you need is a fairly hefty battery spring. Un-coil the bottom loop such that its slightly longer than the diameter of the TV battery tube. Bend the rest such it sits centered and straight up when the bottom is wedged into the bottom of tube. Variations to this pending on the spring used.
The idea is that the spring will be strong enough to push the battery up to the TV switch turning the unit "on" making the supply live. To slow the heat down momentarily you can pull the battery down against the newly installed spring breaking contact from the upper switch.
Using this method lets the contact stay on the bottom making use of the protection and no need to remove the battery wrapper.
This would make this unit particularly functional for the Cera with an adapter similar the that OF showed in the Ultra thread. I'm sure this type of adapter would be easy to make as OF stated. Or better yet, made by TET.
An odd side benefit I found but not 100% of predictability is the spring tension can be such as to not be full power until you assist a bit. In other words enough tension to make contact but not good contact. Keeps the device usable but when apply addition pressure manually the temp rises further. Kind of preheat on a lower power setting? Of course more spring tension takes this side effect away, but I kind of like it.
Love the size and quality of the TV handle as virtually no wasted real-estate.
In this same veil, I have been thinking of a way of using PCB flex board to install between the spring discussed here and the outer casing. It would run up beside the battery and out the slider hole. This gives external contacts which can be switched. Still in the thinking process of this one.
Just some food for thought,
Pipes
I have always liked the T1 power handle but have not used for a while. Been playing with alternative power solutions for my Bulli device. Lots of DIY options out there as there is no latchable power on handles to be had. At least not that I have found. A simple solution was to use the T1 handle for 18650 batteries.
This is not a new idea as using without the inner sleeve and removing the outer wrapper on the battery for a ground connection. This has not been recommended as it bypasses any protection which is mounted on the bottom of the battery.
However, with the search for a latchable switch had me re-think this concept. What I have done is made it into a 18650 supply which is in a normally "on" state but can be held in an "off" state manually. Simply take handle off vaporizer when not using. Can't get much safer than that.
OK, for what I did. All you need is a fairly hefty battery spring. Un-coil the bottom loop such that its slightly longer than the diameter of the TV battery tube. Bend the rest such it sits centered and straight up when the bottom is wedged into the bottom of tube. Variations to this pending on the spring used.
The idea is that the spring will be strong enough to push the battery up to the TV switch turning the unit "on" making the supply live. To slow the heat down momentarily you can pull the battery down against the newly installed spring breaking contact from the upper switch.
Using this method lets the contact stay on the bottom making use of the protection and no need to remove the battery wrapper.
This would make this unit particularly functional for the Cera with an adapter similar the that OF showed in the Ultra thread. I'm sure this type of adapter would be easy to make as OF stated. Or better yet, made by TET.
An odd side benefit I found but not 100% of predictability is the spring tension can be such as to not be full power until you assist a bit. In other words enough tension to make contact but not good contact. Keeps the device usable but when apply addition pressure manually the temp rises further. Kind of preheat on a lower power setting? Of course more spring tension takes this side effect away, but I kind of like it.
Love the size and quality of the TV handle as virtually no wasted real-estate.
In this same veil, I have been thinking of a way of using PCB flex board to install between the spring discussed here and the outer casing. It would run up beside the battery and out the slider hole. This gives external contacts which can be switched. Still in the thinking process of this one.
Just some food for thought,
Pipes
OF
Well-Known Member
A 'reverse dead man's switch'! Another Pipes first..... Love it.
We can discuss exactly how safe this is overall sometime later when I'm not in danger of nodding off and having it slip from my hand......
Maybe we have "Caution: Remove any attached carts before passing out" engraved on the side.
In four languages.
OF
Yep, just like having a grenade with the pin already pulled. OTOH, that thought alone should keep you aware it's cooking. And where the pin is. I went with RCA connectors so a quick tug does it for me.
To make this a alternative to the cera handle, it would be cool if the adapter (3/8 to 510) had a LED power indicator incorporated.
....
...TET.Any opinions/ideas on the PCB Flex cable idea? Use some JB Putty weld, as I did with the thumbrest, to make a magnetic cover for the complete opening, install a rocker switch and a momentary switch (may as well have the best of both worlds) into the putty. Throw in a slightly sunken master safety switch and you would have everything dreams are made of with the exception of an indicator.
Currently looking for suitable switches.
Pipes
OF
Well-Known Member
Cool, but perhaps not too practical? We have to deal well with voltages from over four to under three Volts. If we use a deep red LED to get a Vf of 2.2 or so we get under .8 to maybe 2.0 for the series resistor so the current will vary 2.5:1. It might be near impossible to find in bright light? An incandescent lamp (like used in FV) is perhaps a better call?
I think the flex cable idea is OK but it'll need to be wide. The 'right' way to do it is to break the strap up the side with the PB switch probably? If you want to put some aftermarket thing in I suggest a normal double sided PCB disc with wire leads out the holes.
It would be easy enough to put a spring loaded contact finger at the edge of the disc to pick up the other connection from the switch plate needed to run the light.....
I think it'd make a funny looking but functional lump. Be interesting to see what switches you come up with.....
OF
Hmm, waiting on my FV, dam unfair if you ask me, my friend I talked into ordering AFTER me received his Friday. The bum. So never knew they used an incandescent. Interesting. Not sure how the math works with LEDs but have never had a problem with using a few hundred ohm resistor. They usually light between 2 and 3 volts and if below 3.2 volts you really want to charge anyway. To get reasonable brightness around 3 volts a 220 ohm would likely be OK.? Under practice I have tested them up to 6 volts before the normal red become more orange as over driving. But should be OK for this application. The MFLB would have more of a problem with LEDs as working with 1.5 volts.
Yes, this is what I was thinking. Using two thin PCB flex. The ones I had in mind are double sided with one side all ground. My plan is to cut 2 lengths maybe 1 cm wide to go from the bottom of battery to the side opening. Using only the ground side as it's a single conducting surface. So with one the spring installed for contact to bottom of battery. The backside of the flex under the battery would be insulated and the second flex having a flat contact soldered on as to contact to bottom of tube and the reverse side attached to the same insulator with spring attached. Left with 2 flex to run up the side and out the slider hole for switch connection. These 2 flex can be soldered to what ever works best.
Just clarifying as I think this is what you met be where soldering leads come in?
EDIT: Sorry I misunderstood you here. The spring load finger got me off in wrong direction. Must be the vape. Yes, the sensing of power would not be too hard.
Below here was the result of too much vaping. That's my story....
Now you have me. Is this the missing link to the mystery indicator switch in the Cera? Are you saying you can get the positive contact from the bottom? I know the protection PCB on the battery gets power from the top via the same idea of flex cable under the jacket, but never knew it can be accessed via the bottom. Please tell more about this finger.?
If so, would open up a whole new ball game. The magnetic piece with flex contacts could be a complete control console if wanted. Meters, or even some intelligence if inclined.
LOL, imagine a vape that doubles as a MP3 player. jk, getting carried away.
Spring loaded finger? tell more, please.
Pipes
OF
Well-Known Member
Boy, lots of fun stuff. First LEDs. They have a band gap like function Vf (the Voltage drop when forward, that is conducting). This is the energy that forms the photon of light....the higher the energy of the photon (further up the color spectrum), the higher Vf. IR LEDs can be sub 2 Volts (but not visible). Red is the lowest visible one (of course) rising to close to four for UV IIRC. Along the line we get to the blue used to make white LEDs (which are actually blue with several colored phosphors like fluorescent lights do to absorb the higher energy (blue) photon and give out green and lower energy light to make it 'white' over all (this is why they usually have a blue or green cast....poor balance). So this is like a battery in series with the 'perfect diode' in the model. There's also Rt in there, the Thevenin (or 'internal', sometimes called bulk incorrectly) resistance. This causes the total Vf to rise with higher current levels a bit. So, in the second order approximation (no Rt) we have a battery and the external resistor that sets the current across the voltage source, say 3.2 Volts for easy math. If Vf is 2.2 and Vtotal is 3.2 there's a one Volt delta divided by your 220 OHms (typical value), about 5 mA (20 being a typical number), it's going to be mighty dim. If, OTOH, we have 4.2 now we have a 2 Volt delta instead, twice the current, twice the brightness. This is probably OK. But external (wiring and connection) and internal (battery) resistance conspire such that the voltage at the load (what we have to work with really) is a tiny bit above 3 Volts as a best case with Cera. It's quite common to still be vaping OK with 2.5 Volts on the load. That's like .3 Volts, you'd need a flashlight to find the light...... Aren't you glad you asked?
This is usually compensated with an active current source or sink (depending) so we always have say 15 or 20 mA. Still possible here, but tabu with TV. Incandescents are different, more tolerant of such stuff. More so with colored lenses like FV uses.
With LB the voltage available 'at the pins' is really something like .75 Volts, claims it's an LED in there are obviously silly at a factual level. Nobody makes an LED of any sort that low. Band gap in the diode alone is something like .55 Volts for Silicon at zero current you have like .2 Volts to limit current and make light? Pack a lunch.....
The idea of a PCB to insert a switch into the series path is a good one, I'm suggesting putting that on top of the battery, not under it to avoid the right angle turns (always a problem with flex ribbon cables) and having to move it aside to install and remove the battery. Additionally if you put it there right above it is the switch plate which is at battery minus when the lower switch is made. Putting one side of your indicator to this point (switch plate) is the same as the outside of the cart connector (it threads into that plate....). You already have the battery minus signal from your added switch, the signal on the center pin of the cart, the other terminal of your indicator goes there. The switch plate connection is a spring loaded finger (plated piece of piano wire like the spring on the bottom of the battery) angled upward at an angle in contact with the plate. This is soldered into your added PCB disc.
It's worth remembering the conductor up the side of protect cells carries very little current, it can be very thin. To carry full working current you'll need more metal.
And yes, generally this is the 'missing link' (love the expression....) with the original scheme I think. To make a light in the tail cap work we'll need that 'flying connection' between the top of the battery/tip of the core above. This means another conductor down the tube inner wall and some sort of slip ring scheme so the cap will screw on (it rotates), not at all trivial.
And yes, put the board on top, add a finger, and you can use Cera to charge your laptop....through an inverter.....a little bit.
OK, everyone else wake up again now.....
OF
This is usually compensated with an active current source or sink (depending) so we always have say 15 or 20 mA. Still possible here, but tabu with TV. Incandescents are different, more tolerant of such stuff. More so with colored lenses like FV uses.
With LB the voltage available 'at the pins' is really something like .75 Volts, claims it's an LED in there are obviously silly at a factual level. Nobody makes an LED of any sort that low. Band gap in the diode alone is something like .55 Volts for Silicon at zero current you have like .2 Volts to limit current and make light? Pack a lunch.....
The idea of a PCB to insert a switch into the series path is a good one, I'm suggesting putting that on top of the battery, not under it to avoid the right angle turns (always a problem with flex ribbon cables) and having to move it aside to install and remove the battery. Additionally if you put it there right above it is the switch plate which is at battery minus when the lower switch is made. Putting one side of your indicator to this point (switch plate) is the same as the outside of the cart connector (it threads into that plate....). You already have the battery minus signal from your added switch, the signal on the center pin of the cart, the other terminal of your indicator goes there. The switch plate connection is a spring loaded finger (plated piece of piano wire like the spring on the bottom of the battery) angled upward at an angle in contact with the plate. This is soldered into your added PCB disc.
It's worth remembering the conductor up the side of protect cells carries very little current, it can be very thin. To carry full working current you'll need more metal.
And yes, generally this is the 'missing link' (love the expression....) with the original scheme I think. To make a light in the tail cap work we'll need that 'flying connection' between the top of the battery/tip of the core above. This means another conductor down the tube inner wall and some sort of slip ring scheme so the cap will screw on (it rotates), not at all trivial.
And yes, put the board on top, add a finger, and you can use Cera to charge your laptop....through an inverter.....a little bit.
OK, everyone else wake up again now.....
OF
havealight101
Norski
Anyone who cares and doesn't want to read the maestro's massive post, this part that I quoted is why there will be no lighted switch for the cera.
To me, it seems TET got ahead of themselves(it happens, where is the 8 and others?), and later realized that it would add to much complexity to their rather simplistic, long lasting vape. Good call in my book.
OF
Well-Known Member
As I understand it it was working in a prior prototype. I assume that one was physically different, making it a trivial deal to hook it up. I've seen this happen before. The design guy gives it to the packaging guy and the backwards link fails. IMO they can make it work, but it's not practical to build it into every body for the few that want it eventually (remember you could get the switch later). Lots has to change I think, like the switch plate to support the undesigned as yet flying contact (center pin of the cart). Besides, it seriously screws with that 'rock simple' mantra.... Thanks for finding the short story in there, sorry for making it longer again.....
I agree, I also see it as a good call. This is, of course why one Beta Tests stuff.......
Cool. You're welcome, of course. That's the best scheme I've come up with so far. It's also worth remembering it can get mighty hot in there, but that's an issue for later on. First you need to have a plan in order to perfect it.....or so I'm told.
The other day I was sitting with it in my hand as it got hotter thinking about the 'skin' idea and I started to trip on the idea of putting the switches in the skin body so the buttons (one latching, one not) would be to the left and right of your thumb rest.......you know like the stick in a fighter jet? Light would go there too. Maybe above your thumb?
Fun stuff.
OF
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
Ok guys, I just got a nice package on my doorstep, my very own Thermovape T-1.
I plan on reading through the whole thread, but at 211 pages its a little cumbersome
Anyone got any pointers on how I should use it/recommended mods/what I should search for in this thread?
I plan on reading through the whole thread, but at 211 pages its a little cumbersome
Anyone got any pointers on how I should use it/recommended mods/what I should search for in this thread?
OF
Well-Known Member
I plan on reading through the whole thread, but at 211 pages its a little cumbersome
Anyone got any pointers on how I should use it/recommended mods/what I should search for in this thread?
First off, Howdy, congrats on the new T1. You may be one of the very last to get one.
Not to worry about the thread, 75 posts (a mere three pages) a night and you can have it done by Easter....almost.
Thanks for offering to look it up. Yes, there's a 'secret technique' that should make it easy to get started. Go put "three step" in the search function with OF (me) as the poster and check this thread. 14 hits, pick one. It describes the 3 steps you need to do to make it work. It's a convection vape, like HA but you are the pump and temperature control.
Thanks again, you just saved me a bunch of typing.
Check it out, grind your herb, charge your batteries, fasten your seat belt and enjoy.
Best wishes.
OF
Frederick McGuire
Aggressively Loungey
Thanks OF, I shall go searching
Set it on your UD for a few minutes to warm the entire unit. Don't be afraid to play with draw speed. Flick the switch and get high.Ok guys, I just got a nice package on my doorstep, my very own Thermovape T-1.
I plan on reading through the whole thread, but at 211 pages its a little cumbersome
Anyone got any pointers on how I should use it/recommended mods/what I should search for in this thread?
OF
Well-Known Member
Thanks OF, I shall go searching
You're quite welcome. Just post if you hit a rock.
Cheers.
OF
Sooo.... I made a 510-RCA adapter with an LED indicator. This could just as easy be a 3/8" thread as in OF's unit. I used a red LED (typical specs I'm assuming) and a 180 ohm series resistor. Turns on at 2.2 volts and reaches good brightness well before 3 volt.
Once the soldering is complete and angles verified, I just use one my favourite materials JB putty weld followed with an ordinary permanent marker and then a cleaning with ISO. The JB soaks up the marker and the ISO seems to even it up and stops from coming off on fingers.
I like the 90 degree bend as can fold the vaporizer down for pocket. However, with present configuration (no switch) I remove it. Surprisingly, the JB doesn't get too hot to handle.
Also, once it's RCA connectors one can get a little silly.
LOL, made a few extra pieces for my Lego building.
Some guys grow up but manage to stay a kid.
Pipes
Once the soldering is complete and angles verified, I just use one my favourite materials JB putty weld followed with an ordinary permanent marker and then a cleaning with ISO. The JB soaks up the marker and the ISO seems to even it up and stops from coming off on fingers.
I like the 90 degree bend as can fold the vaporizer down for pocket. However, with present configuration (no switch) I remove it. Surprisingly, the JB doesn't get too hot to handle.
Also, once it's RCA connectors one can get a little silly.
LOL, made a few extra pieces for my Lego building.
Some guys grow up but manage to stay a kid.
Pipes