ogcook
Well-Known Member
At this point probably something third party like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/External-Po...631?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2a2f9eb517
Discontinued ThermoVape
- Thread starter VaporBoxed
- Start date
http://www.ebay.com/itm/External-Po...631?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2a2f9eb517
Teonanacatl
New Member
So I'm having problems. My Thermovape T1 is heating up properly, but when I draw on it the air is completely cool. It's like it has leaks or something...
OF
Well-Known Member
I'm sorry you're having trouble, you should not be from the sounds of it.
How long is it taking to reach full temperature? How long are you drawing on it after that?
Do you understand the '3 steps' idea?
TIA
OF
Teonanacatl
New Member
Thanks for responding.
I've had this T1 for a good half year now, and can always get good vapor production out of it. The batteries are a little seaoned, but they are still heating up as quickly and vigorously as normal. I guess what I'm saying is I've been using it a lot and this suddenly happened. I can draw until I'm blue in the face and the temp of the air barely changes.
Earlier I found I could remedy the situation by firmly gripping the holes/thread point on the heater body while hitting, if that makes sense, basically closing up some of the holes and possible leaks. Now it isn't exactly working.
About the three steps technique, I've seen you mentioned it but couldn't find any actual description of it. None the less I've read a lot of text on properly hitting the t1 and have had months of success.
I've had this T1 for a good half year now, and can always get good vapor production out of it. The batteries are a little seaoned, but they are still heating up as quickly and vigorously as normal. I guess what I'm saying is I've been using it a lot and this suddenly happened. I can draw until I'm blue in the face and the temp of the air barely changes.
Earlier I found I could remedy the situation by firmly gripping the holes/thread point on the heater body while hitting, if that makes sense, basically closing up some of the holes and possible leaks. Now it isn't exactly working.
About the three steps technique, I've seen you mentioned it but couldn't find any actual description of it. None the less I've read a lot of text on properly hitting the t1 and have had months of success.
OF
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the update.
OK, if you've used it well in the past you're technique should be fine. Likewise if you're getting normal full temperature status in a reasonable time the batteries and heater are OK most likely.
Is the bowl section properly screwed down into the adapter body? That is just above the cap threads on the assembled core is the o-ring fully covered? I don't think it's possible to get a leak and still be able to make contact with the switch and get the cover properly screwed down at the same time but mine isn't handy so I can't verify that. But you should not be able to see the ring at all looking just over those threads?
A leak there would bypass the heater, but it's the only way I can see that happening.
OF
OK, if you've used it well in the past you're technique should be fine. Likewise if you're getting normal full temperature status in a reasonable time the batteries and heater are OK most likely.
Is the bowl section properly screwed down into the adapter body? That is just above the cap threads on the assembled core is the o-ring fully covered? I don't think it's possible to get a leak and still be able to make contact with the switch and get the cover properly screwed down at the same time but mine isn't handy so I can't verify that. But you should not be able to see the ring at all looking just over those threads?
A leak there would bypass the heater, but it's the only way I can see that happening.
OF
Teonanacatl
New Member
So I did see that the o ring was visible. At this point it was still heating up. I took the bowl off and tried to put it back in but it wouldn't thread past where the o ring was sticking out... Now the cover won't thread on all the way and it won't heat up.
OF
Well-Known Member
OK, now we've got it. The bowl/heater has backed out. Easy enough to make right.
Pull the battery out and screw the tube back on so you can get a good grip on things without blocking the switch inside or risking turning it on. Then wrap a few rubber bands around the narrow part of the bowl (just above the ring) for a better grip. Then screw the bowl back down into the core body until it bottoms out (which will back the switch out some). If it doesn't want to go pull it out and lube the ring with a little PG, VG or even a bit of cooking oil (just a bit on the tip of a finger and wipe the ring on it's outer edge, thin film is all that's needed). Be careful starting the threads back in again, they're at the bottom and alignment can be a hassle.
Bottom it out firmly so it won't be tempted to follow the cap off anymore and you should be fine for good.
Regards,
OF
Teonanacatl
New Member
Perfect, just needed some lube! You've been super helpful, I can't thank you enough.
Sounds like you got it fixed with OF's help.
If not, make sure both coils are actually heating. I know you said it was heating properly, but sometimes it can be tricky to determine if both coils are in fact glowing.
I've had two cores die on me, and both times it was one core heating and the other not.
Teonanacatl
New Member
How would one determine if both coils are working? It seems to be working fine, though I never really try to make it produce clouds of vapor, I enjoy smaller hits. And I'm sure you understand me not wanting to unscrew the bowl again.
OF
Well-Known Member
Just look down into the heater through the holes.
But, IMO no need. If it's running normally now as you say it is, both heaters are working. One missing would make it very slow, not cold as you reported. A bad heater does not fit the circumstances reported.....which is why I didn't suggest 'going there'.
OF
Teonanacatl
New Member
Ah, yes, I'm in a habit of looking at the heater through the holes quite frequently, so I'd see. Thanks again!
OF
Well-Known Member
You're welcome, glad it's working again. Time to enjoy it.....that is why you bought it, isn't it?
OF
Hey guys this is my first official post. After lurking for some time and talking with a couple well known members here ( OF, Joeykickass) . I decided to go with the Thermovape T1 over the Pax by Ploom. I got it from this link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE...256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565bac4620
seems like a great deal and they more left ! Just wanted to spread the word.
Also wondering if anyone can help me with this.
wondering if anyone knows where I can get that piece? Also any advice and tips would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks !
- E.Rin
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE...256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565bac4620
seems like a great deal and they more left ! Just wanted to spread the word.
Also wondering if anyone can help me with this.
wondering if anyone knows where I can get that piece? Also any advice and tips would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks !
- E.Rin
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
That looks like the thermovape evolution... A bit more finicky than the t1. Unfortunately they're out if production (but still have a warranty with the company, which I've used and been happy with.) if you can find one it would probably be a complete kit.
That sucks. O well, Thanks!
Tom Funk
Well-Known Member
rcflo
Well-Known Member
I will second that! I had some email exchanges with the lady there, and I am now waiting impatiently for a new LV Rev DART, LV AVA, and LV Evo to add to my previous DART lineup. Can't wait, for their prices it was foolish not to pick em up as backups to backups to backups. plus an evo which is new for me, to hold me over until my grasshopper comes, if it doesn't outperform it! Also picked up a cloned mechanical mod for the evo from fasttech for dirt cheap.
very good people over there in FL, give em a call or shoot em an email
They also have full kits!
very good people over there in FL, give em a call or shoot em an email
They also have full kits!
rcflo
Well-Known Member
Yes I am referring to Vapor Envy. Sorry I am not experienced with their herb attachments yet, only oil, but AFAIK, the T1 has a bigger bowl, draws 30Watts (10 Watts more power), batteries don't last as long because of it, only 6V?
Evo is more of a personal vape if the T1 already isnt, SV and LV, faster warm up? battery lasts a bit longer, evo body fits right into a WP attachment, T1 needs a connector
Somebody that actually owns them should correct me if I am wrong, as this is just coming from what I've read around
OF
Well-Known Member
I think that about sums it up. T1 is easier to use and generally delivers better flavor I think. Evolution is smaller in diameter.
I think it takes finer skills to get the same performance from Evolution, the long thin bowl design is harder to control than the sorter one in T1.
T1 was the base for LL Cera, not Evolution, IMO there's a big clue there. I still use my T1s (I have two) but not my Evolution in a long time.
OF
I think it takes finer skills to get the same performance from Evolution, the long thin bowl design is harder to control than the sorter one in T1.
T1 was the base for LL Cera, not Evolution, IMO there's a big clue there. I still use my T1s (I have two) but not my Evolution in a long time.
OF
Yoosh
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info guys! I think I'm just gonna go with the T1. (unless you think the evo is worth it for other reasons)
@OF: could i get a super brief description of the other kits available? I know there's the revolution, ava, ultra, and ultra max but I'm not certain which take concentrates or essential oils or ejuice or what the differences really are. The LV versus normal voltage is confusing as well.
Also, what does essential oil references versus concentrate?
Thanks!
@OF: could i get a super brief description of the other kits available? I know there's the revolution, ava, ultra, and ultra max but I'm not certain which take concentrates or essential oils or ejuice or what the differences really are. The LV versus normal voltage is confusing as well.
Also, what does essential oil references versus concentrate?
Thanks!
OF
Well-Known Member
'Concentrate' and 'essential oils' are TV code for hash oil. Occasionally they'll split hairs a bit to put the solid hashes into the LL Cera but basically the older stuff was set up for oils, herb/bubble or 'e-juice'. They did a LOT of e-cig business before ever entering THC systems, tobacco smoking cessation is the founding goal of the company. Ava is just a juice rig. Ultra and Ultra max are battery bodies. Revolution/DART, Evolutionand the other products were added to the Ultra series (there are actually 3, based on 10440, 15500 and 17670 size batteries.
Originally the biggest Ultra used two RCR123As (3.0 Volts each) for "Standard Voltage" of 6 Volts. T1 (first herb vape) used this, following products adapted into the line. Lower power carts, like Revolution/DART can also be had "Low Voltage" marked with a LV on the bottom, 3.7 Volts using one batter rather than two. SV versions tend to heat a bit faster although need more battery charging.
OF
Originally the biggest Ultra used two RCR123As (3.0 Volts each) for "Standard Voltage" of 6 Volts. T1 (first herb vape) used this, following products adapted into the line. Lower power carts, like Revolution/DART can also be had "Low Voltage" marked with a LV on the bottom, 3.7 Volts using one batter rather than two. SV versions tend to heat a bit faster although need more battery charging.
OF